Stort 


WILL   H.    ROBINSON 


LIBRARY 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

SANTA  BARBARA 


PRESENTED  BY 

MRS.  DONALD  KELLOGG 


^r^ 


THE  OCATILLA 

K;c!iing   by    Wallac.'    L.    DeWulf 


The 
Story  of  Arizona 


BY 

WILL  H.  ROBINSON 

Author  of  "The  Man  from  Yesterday,"  "The 

Golden  Palace   of  Neverland,"  "The 

Knotted  Cord,"  Etc. 


ILLUSTRATED 


THE  BERRYHILL  COMPANY 

PHOENIX,  ARIZONA 
Publishers 


COPYBIGHTED,    1919 
BY 

THE    BERRYHILL    COMPANY 
All  righta  reserved 


HAMMOND   PRESS 

W     B.  CONKEY  COMPANY 

CHICAOO 


TO  THE 

PATRIOTIC   MEN   OF   ARIZONA 

WHO  IN  THIS  GRAVE  CRISIS  OF  THE  WORLD'S  HISTORY, 
THOUGH  COUNTING  THE  COST  YET  WITH  EYES  EVER 
EAGER  AND  HEARTS  FULL  OF  HIGH  PURPOSE,  HAVE 
CROSSED  CONTINENT  AND  SEA  AND  TODAY  ARE  WRITING 
ON  THE  BATTLEFIELDS  OF  FRANCE  WHAT  MAY  WELL  BE 
THE  MOST  GIX)RIOUS  PAGE  OF  THE  STATERS  HISTORY, 
THIS  BOOK  IS  RESPECTFULLY  DEDICATED.    OCTOBER,  1918. 


CONTENTS 

I.      House   and   Canal   Builders   of   the   Desert- 
Cliff  Dwellere  of  the  Uplands  -      -      -      -  13 

y^  II.       The  Coming  of  the  Spaniards    -      -       -       -  33 

—-III.       Spanish  ^Mission  Days      ------  53 

rV.       The  Arrival  of  the  Americans  -      -       -      -  77 

V.       The  War  wath  Mexico      ------  86 

VI.       The  Boundary  Survey  ------  97 

YII.       The  Gadsden  Purchase      - 103 

YIII.      Mining  and  Transportation  from  the  Gadsden 

Purchase  to  the  Civil  War  -      -       -       -  113. 

IX.      Attempts  to  Establish  Territorial  Government  -  122 
-  X.      Filibusters     in     Mexico  —  War     Department 

Camels         --------  127 

XI.       The  Vengeance  of  Cochise 133 

XII.      The  Civil  War        -------  139 

XIII.  Prospecting  Parties  in  Civil  War  Times    -       -  152 

XIV.  Arizona  a  Political  Entity  -----  157 
XV.      Militaiy  and  the  Indians  ------  183 

XVI.       Saloons  and  "Bad  Men" -The  Bogus  Baron  of 

the  Colorados 223 

XVII.       Transportation   After   the   War— Pack-trains, 

Stages  and  Sixteen-mule  Freighters      -       -  244 
XVIII.      Arizona  Mmes  After  the  Civil  War  -       -       -       250 

XIX.      Labor 287 

XX.  Tilling  the  Soil— The  Roosevelt  Reservoir- 
Verde  Reser\'oir  Sites— The  Laguna  Proj- 
ect—IiTigation  Resources  of  Arizona- 
Crops— Cotton  Growing— Stock  Raising— 
Ostriches^Bison 296 

XXI.  Churches  and  Schools— The  Monnons— The 
Restoration  of  San  Xavier— Other  Chiu'ches 
— Y.  M.  C.  A.— Schools— The  State  Univer- 
sity—Modem Indians  and  Indian  Schools  -  323 

5 


CONTENTS 


XXII.     The     Spanish- American     War— The     Rough 

Riders 346 

XXIII.  Arizona   at    Last    a    State— Anthem,    Flower 

and  Flag 351 

XXIV.  Scenic   Arizona— The   Grand    Canyon— Auto- 

mobile Roads— Hotels 367 

XXV.    Arizona  Cities  of  Today— Tucson— Phoenix— 

Prescott—Bisbee— Douglas— Other  Towns  -  379 
XXVI.     Arizona's  Part  in  the  World's  War  -      -      -       403 
XXVII.    Arizona  Plant  Life   (Written  in  collaboration 

with  John  J.  Thorber,  A.M.)  -       -      -      -  416 
XXVIII.     Some  Arizona  Beasts  and  Birds        -  .    -      -       436 


PREFACE 

AS  every  one  knows,  the  real  purpose  of  a 
preface  to  a  history  is  to  give  the  author 
an  opportunity — quite  casually,  of  course — 
to  toss  modest  floral  tributes  at  himself  as  he  tells 
you  not  only  what  a  Matchless  Volume  he  has  just 
written,  but  as  well  calls  attention  to  the  erudition 
employed  by  himself  in  going  only  to  original 
sources  for  his  information,  and  in  so  doing  con- 
sulting freely  the  works  of  Confucius,  Tatistchev 
and  Sheherazade — all  in  their  original  tongues. 
If  this  is  done  with  sufficient  dash  and  elan,  as 
the  gentle  reader  holds  the  M.  V.  in  her  hands, 
tears  of  grief  will  gather  in  her  left  eye  at  the 
thought  of  all  the  people  dead  and  gone  who  will 
never  have  the  opportunity  of  reading  the  M.  V., 
while  in  her  right  eye  crystal  drops  of  joy  will 
glisten  over  the  feast  of  reason  that  will  soon  be 
hers. 

Now,  as  to  our  erudition  as  the  author  of  The 
Story  of  Arizona,  permit  us  to  say  that  the  lan- 
guages employed  by  the  early  chroniclers  of  the 
Southwest  were  Spanish,  Injun  and  Mediaeval 
Arizonese.  Just  to  show  our  familiarity  with  the 
liquid  vowels  of  Castile  we  here  modestly  state 
that  we  can  remark  in  Spanish,  "The  shoes  of  our 
uncle's  cousin  are  two  sizes  too  large  to  be  worn 
by  our  brother-in-law's  stepson,"  with  all  the  grace 


8  PREFACE 

of  a  Cervantes.  "Me  hace  V.  el  favor  de  pasarme 
el  chili  con  came,"  as  De  Tornos  so  truly  says.  In 
Injun  we  can  call  to  a  Pima  as  we  meet  him  in 
the  road,  "Pap  V  hay!"  as  nonchalantly  as  a  Salt 
River  missionary,  and  when  it  comes  to  Arizonese, 
we  look  only  with  sadness  upon  the  tenderfoot 
who  calls  a  reata  a  lariat  and  thinks  a  remuda  is 
a  new  Hooverized  war  bread. 

If  there  is  any  doubt  in  the  minds  of  the  gentle 
reader  about  our  access  to  Original  Sources  we 
can  only  say  that  when  we  arrived  in  Arizona, 
John  Hance  was  still  engaged  in  digging  the  Grand 
Canyon  and  Herbert  Patrick  had  barely  completed 
the  hump  on  Camelback  Mountain,  from  which 
it  will  be  seen  that  at  least  a  part  of  what  has  been 
here  indited  has  the  authority  of  contemporaneous 
observation;  as  for  the  rest,  we  have  spared  our- 
selves no  labor  in  always  going  to  the  fact  factory 
for  facts. 

While  we  may  seem  to  be  wasting  a  good  deal 
of  high-priced  paper  on  this  preface,  we  must  say 
that  in  trying  to  compress  the  events  of  nearly  four 
centuries  into  a  single  volume  we  found  that  our 
space  would  not  permit  any  elaborate  system  of 
notes  and  citations.  Many  of  our  sources  of 
information  will  be  found  in  the  bibliography  con- 
tained herein.  We  also  obtained  much  valuable 
information  from  bulletins  issued  by  different 
branches  of  the  University  of  Arizona  and  the 
United  States  Forestry  Service,  as  well  as  from 
the  proceedings  of  the  State  Legislatures  and  from 
different  Arizona  officials,  including  the  Secretary 


PREFACE  9 

of  State,  the  Superintendent  of  Public  Instruction, 
the  Adjutant  General  and  the  State  Game  Warden. 

To  come  down  to  the  primary  purpose  of  this 
M.  v.,  while  we  have  seriously  endeavored  to  make 
the  story  a  comprehensive,  if  brief,  survey  of  the 
evolution  of  the  land  of  Father  Kino  into  the  Com- 
monwealth we  now  know  as  Arizona,  making  it  in 
a  way  a  pageant  of  cowled  friars,  steel-capped 
Spanish  conquistadores,  painted  Indians,  bewhis- 
kered  miners,  swaggering  cowboys,  and  finally,  the 
prophetic-eyed  reclaimers  of  the  desert,  its  first 
object  is  to  give  entertainment  to  the  reader — 
something,  after  all,  that  should  not  wholly  be 
lost  sight  of  on  the  part  of  the  author. 

Also,  we  have  kept  in  mind  that  when  Mrs. 
Emerson  de  Moliere  Browning,  of  Phoenix,  or 
Mrs.  Many  Horses,  of  the  Navajo  Reservation,  is 
called  upon  to  prepare  a  "paper"  to  be  read  before 
her  respective  woman's  club,  she  has  the  right  to 
expect  that  when  she  turns  to  The  Story  of  Ari- 
zona she  may  do  so  in  the  unwavering  faith  that 
there  is  an  authority  somewhere  for  all  that  has 
been  set  down  therein.  In  retelling  stories  that 
have  more  than  one  version,  like  the  account  of 
the  Oatman  tragedy,  the  killing  of  Mangas  Colo- 
rado or  the  Penole  Treaty,  we  have  used  the  one 
that  seemed  to  bear  the  most  evidence  of  accuracy. 

Under  the  weight  of  our  responsibilities  to 
Mrs.  Many  Horses,  we  regret  that  we  have  had  to 
be,  at  times,  statistical;  that  in  spite  of  our  most 
stringent  quarantine  regulations,  figures  and  dry 
facts  would  creep  in.    In  consequence,  while  there 


10  PREFACE 

are  chapters  that  even  we  are  willing  to  admit  are 
not  wholly  without  interest,  there  are  others  that 
read  in  places  with  the  jocund  sprightliness  of  an 
abstract  of  title.  We  would  like  to  mark  these 
arid  spots  with  danger  signals,  but  our  skeptical 
publisher  fears  we  might  get  them  in  the  wrong 
place,  and  comfortably  assures  us  that  the  reader 
will  find  them  soon  enough  as  it  is. 

Finally,  if  we  should  be  accused  of  putting 
more  emphasis  upon  the  picturesque  than  upon 
the  ponderous,  of  spending  more  time  with  Padre 
Garces  and  the  young  man  who  dropped  his  sweet- 
heart into  the  muddy  waters  of  an  irrigation  ditch 
than  with  him  who  sits  in  the  seat  of  the  mighty, 
we  can  only  say  that  we  never  intended  writing  a 
Who's  Who.  We'd  lots  rather  be  accused  of  writ- 
ing Who's  Interesting — and  vital. 

It  would  probably  be  suspected,  even  if  we 
didn't  mention  it,  that  another  pen  than  ours  had 
a  prominent  part  in  writing  the  chapter  on  Arizona 
Plant  Life.  Personally,  our  relations  with  trees 
and  flowers  are  entirely  friendly.  We  can  tell  a 
pine  from  an  oak  at  a  glance,  know  the  bank 
where  the  Wild  Thyme  runs  her  overdraft,  and 
have  watched  beds  of  poppies  metamorphose  dull 
brown  earth  to  a  cloth  of  gold  for  many  springs; 
but  when  it  comes  to  introducing  the  public  to  the 
plants  of  the  State,  not  only  by  their  nicknames, 
like  "Johnny  Jump-ups"  or  "Owls'  Clover,"  but 
also  occasionally  dropping  such  awful  noms  de 
flora  as  Baccharis  sarathroides,  just  to  show  one's 
familiarity  with  the  language  of  the  horticultural 
Horace,  we  know  it  is  time  for  us  to  call  for  help. 


PREFACE  11 

Now,  we  believe  that  when  one  is  looking  for  a 
dentist  or  a  photographer  to  operate  on  him,  the 
best  is  none  too  good.  We  also  believe  that  when 
one  has  found  one  that  can  keep  him  from  looking 
like  either  Mutt  or  Jeff — or  can  fill  an  aching  void 
with  concentrated  comfort — he  has  discovered  a 
blessing  straight  from  the  gods.  That  is  the  way 
we  felt  when  Professor  Thornber  said  he  would 
help  us  out. 

If  John  J.  Thornber,  A.  M.,  needed  an  introduc- 
tion to  nature  lovers  of  our  section  of  out-of-doors, 
we  would  simply  say  that  he  is  the  professor  of 
botany  at  the  University  of  Arizona  and  "the"  pre- 
eminent authority  on  his  specialty  in  the  South- 
west. As  that  isn't  necessary,  we  will  only  mention 
that  he  is  the  kind  of  a  man  who  likes  above  all 
things  to  get  out  into  the  wilds  during  vacation 
where  he  will  sit  down  with  his  shrubs  and  plants 
and  hold  conversation  with  them  as  he  does  with 
his  students  in  classroom.  Do  they  reciprocate 
his  affection?  Do  they?  Why,  within  twenty-four 
hours  they  are  telling  him  how  the  four-o'clocks 
managed  with  the  advanced  time;  how  Miss  Iris 
Douglasiana  got  overheated  and  almost  had  a 
sunstroke;  and  how  Old  Man  Cactus  got  his  feet 
too  wet  during  the  last  rain  and  had  dreadful 
spinal  rheumatism. 

So  you  see,  Gentle  Reader,  with  an  authority 
like  this,  statements  mentioned  in  the  Plant  chap- 
ter have  upon  them  a  most  incontrovertible  seal 
of  authority.  WILL  H.  ROBINSON. 

Chandler,  Arizona, 
June  30,  1918. 


O     h 


The  Story  of  Arizona 


Chapter  I 

HOUSE  AND  CANAL  BUILDERS  OF 
THE  DESERT— CLIFF  DWELLERS 
OF  THE  UPLANDS 

THE  recorded  history  of  primitive  man  begins 
not  with  the  written  word  or  page,  but 
when  he  fashions  and  leaves  behind  him 
weapons,  tools  and  utensils  of  a  time-resisting  sub- 
stance, or  protects  his  dead  by  interment,  so 
within  the  confines  of  the  territory  now  known  as 
Arizona  the  earliest  people  of  whom  we  have  any 
real  knowledge  are  the  builders  of  canals  and 
adobe  houses  in  the  Salt  and  Gila  valleys,  the  cave 
and  cliff  dwellers  and  the  stone  house  builders  of 
the  highlands  of  the  State,  and  while  their  history 
is  of  necessity  largely  veiled  from  the  investigator, 
still  by  study  the  ethnologist  has  learned  much 
concerning  their  habits,  and  finally  has  been  able 
to  make  shrewd  conjectures  as  to  what  ultimately 
became  of  them. 

In  spite  of  the  extravagant  theories  of  imagina- 
tive romancers  who  would  have  us  believe  that 
these  folk  possessed  a  culture  comparable  to  that 

13 


14  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

of  Nineveh  or  Philae,  we  must  keep  in  mind  that 
they  were  Indians,  and  although  they  attained  a 
civilization  that  was  far  above  that  of  the  savage 
tribes  surrounding  them,  yet  theirs  were  the  lim- 
ited lives  necessitated  by  an  existence  in  an  age  of 
stone. 

Nearly  all  of  these  ancient  people  were  farmers. 
In  the  lower  Salt  and  Gila  River  valleys,  on  ac- 
count of  the  aridity  of  the  climate,  they  raised  their 
crops  by  irrigation.  According  to  surveys  made  by 
Herbert  R.  Patrick,  James  C.  Goodwin  and  others, 
they  constructed  in  the  Salt  River  Valley  150  miles 
of  main  irrigating  canals  (in  one  place  through 
solid  rock),  besides  the  necessary  lateral  ditches. 
These  canals  received  their  water  from  Salt  River, 
which  was  raised  to  the  required  height  by  dams, 
doubtless  built  of  brush  and  rock  somewhat  like 
those  constructed  by  the  early  white  settlers  in  the 
same  region. 

All  canals  and  their  laterals,  it  must  be  remem- 
bered, were  dug  by  band  without  the  aid  of  either 
horses  or  metal  implements.  Stone  hoes  and 
wooden  shovel's  made  of  the  trunks  of  ironwood 
trees  were  perhaps  the  tools  most  employed,  and 
the  dirt  was  carried  away  in  baskets,  probably  by 
the  women. 

Irrigating  thus,  these  ancient  people  raised  corn, 
beans,  cotton  and  squash,  also,  probably,  different 
native  grasses,  not  as  we  would  for  stock,  but  for 
the  edible  seeds,  which  still  form  part  of  the 
Indian's  diet.  The  growth  of  cacti,  too,  may  have 
been  stimulated  by  the  application  of  water,  for 


HOUSE  AND  CANAL  BUILDERS     15 

many  varieties  of  fruit  from  this  thorny  plant  were 
highly  prized  by  the  aborigines.  Nor  must  the 
possibilities  of  the  mesquite  bean  and  the  squaw- 
berry  as  articles  of  diet  be  forgotten,  and  the  trees 
and  bushes  which  produce  them  were  left  on  the 
farms  to  bear  valuable  crops  for  the  husbandman. 

Fields  were  cultivated  by  these  primitive  farm- 
ers and  crops  planted  with  the  aid  of  sharpened 
sticks  fashioned,  as  were  the  shovels,  with  the  stone 
ax,  assisted  perhaps  with  fire.  In  addition  to  the 
more  temporal  dwellings  made  of  reeds  and  brush 
with  thatched  roofs  which  housed  some  of  the 
farmers  on  or  near  their  own  fields,  they  had  towns 
that  could  almost  be  called  cities,  composed  of 
substantial  adobe  houses  exceedingly  well  built 
and  often  rising  in  pj^amidal  form  to  three  or  four 
stories  in  height.  While  many  of  them  may  have 
been  used  as  communal  dwellings  or  tenements, 
some  were  doubtless  designed  as  storehouses  for 
grain  and  various  supplies  and  others  were  used 
as  citadels  or  dedicated  to  devotional  or  civic  pur- 
poses, as  there  is  abundant  evidence  that  religious 
and  administrative  activities  occupied  no  incon- 
siderable portion  of  their  time. 

In  1887,  Frank  Hamilton  Gushing,  a  member 
of  the  Hemenway-Southwestern  archaeological 
expedition,  explored  the  ruins  of  a  community  of 
these  early  people,  which  lie  five  miles  west  of 
the  present  town  of  Chandler.  Here  he  found  the 
remains  of  a  veritable  city,  which  he  called  "El 
Pueblo  de  los  Muertos"— "The  City  of  the  Dead"— 
in  the  center  of  which  he  uncovered  many  large 


16  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

communal  houses  and  beyond  them  found  the 
remains  of  more  sparsely  settled  suburbs  extend- 
ing for  the  distance  of  two  miles. 

The  largest  of  these  houses  had  even  greater 
dimensions  than  the  famous  Casa  Grande,  and 
must  have,  for  its  time,  made  a  most  imposing 
appearance.  It  was  surrounded  by  smaller  edi- 
fices, and  the  entire  group  was  enclosed  by  an 
adobe  wall,  which,  it  is  evident,  was  built  as  pro- 
tection against  marauding  enemies  as  well  as  to 
insure  privacy  to  its  occupants. 

As  further  evidence  that  these  people  lived  in 
constant  danger  from  surrounding  savage  tribes, 
to  whom  pillage  was  one  of  the  natural  occupa- 
tions of  life,  it  may  be  noted  that  while  there  were 
windows  and  portholes  in  the  outer  walls  of  their 
houses,  there  were  no  doors.  The  dwellers  and 
peaceable  visitors  entered  and  made  their  exit 
by  means  of  ladders  against  the  outer  wall  and 
trap  doors  in  the  roofs  leading  to  the  rooms  within, 
which  is  the  procedure  in  many  of  the  modern 
pueblos. 

The  walls  of  the  houses  were  made  of  adobe, 
and  built  not  of  sun-dried  brick,  but  by  piling  on 
more  and  more  clay  until  the  top  was  reached.  It 
was  always  seen  to  that  the  wall  of  the  house  was 
of  sufficient  thickness  to  insure  at  the  same  time 
protection  against  hostile  tribes  as  well  as  the 
fierce  summer  heat  of  the  desert.  In  the  better 
finished  houses  the  clay  surface  of  the  inner  walls 
was  rubbed  by  hand  until  it  attained  a  high  polish. 

The  rafters  between  the  stories  were  made  of 


HOUSE  AND  CANAL  BUILDERS     17 

small  tree  trunks  upon  which  was  laid  a  layer  of 
reeds,  which  in  turn  was  covered  with  a  coating 
of  cement-like  clay. 

In  the  yards  or  streets  of  El  Pueblo  de  los 
Muertos,  Mr,  Gushing  found  public  ovens  and  large 
cooking  pits  lined  with  clay  or  natural  cement. 
The  largest  of  these  pits  was  fifteen  feet  across 
and  seven  feet  deep. 

Within  the  houses  were  found  the  remains  of 
many  dishes  and  utensils  of  a  pottery  not  unlike 
that  fashioned  by  some  of  the  modern  Indians; 
also,  there  were  stones  for  grinding  corn,  stone 
axes,  hammers  and  hoes,  cotton  cloth,  skin- 
dressing  implements,  bone  awls,  and  a  score  of 
other  articles  of  the  chase  and  of  war  and  of 
domestic  and  religious  usage,  including  various  lit- 
tle images,  some  not  over  an  inch  long,  carved 
from  stone — fetishes  and  what  not. 

All  this,  you  see,  is  of  the  Stone  Age,  these  peo- 
ple knowing  nothing  of  the  refining  or  smelting  of 
ores.  It  is  true  that  a  roughly  fashioned  cutting 
instrument  of  copper  was  found  by  Frank  Gushing 
in  a  small  cave  near  Tempe,  but  it  was  doubtless 
smelted  accidentally  from  a  piece  of  ore  that  hap- 
pened to  line  a  cooking  pit.  Also,  in  a  ruin  west 
of  Phoenix,  William  Lossing  discovered  three  little 
copper  bells,  like  sleigh  bells,  with  pebbles  inside 
to  serve  as  clappers.  Their  appearance  shows 
them  to  be  of  unquestioned  Mayan  manufacture. 
One  of  them,  now  owned  by  Dr.  E.  H.  Parker,  of 
Los  Angeles,  is  of  beautiful  design  and  fashioned 
out  of  fine  copper  wire  coiled  into  shape  and 
fused  into  one  solid  piece. 

2 


18  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

In  the  corners  of  certain  rooms  at  El  Pueblo 
de  los  Muertos  what  were  taken  to  be  remains  of 
persons  of  importance  were  found  buried  in 
vaults.  Others  of  their  dead  were  first  incinerated, 
and  the  remaining  ash  and  charred  bones  were 
interred  in  urns  made  of  pottery  with  inverted 
saucer-like  lids. 

Two  of  the  skeletons  found  in  Los  Muertos  were 
nearly  six  feet  in  length.  Most  of  them,  however, 
were  short  in  stature. 

In  1694,  Father  Eusebio  Francisco  Kino,  a  Jesuit 
friar,  visited  the  now  famous  ruin  called  "Casa 
Grande" — Big  House — which  lies  about  twelve 
miles  from  the  present  city  of  Florence  and  about 
three  miles  from  the  Gila  River,  and  said  mass 
there.  Lieut.  Juan  Mateo  Mange,  who  accom- 
panied the  friar  on  a  second  visit,  describes  the 
principal  ruin  as  but  little  more  extensive  than 
it  is  today,  though  at  least  one  of  the  surrounding 
buildings,  now  nearly  obliterated,  then  had  not 
only  walls  but  remains  of  ceiling  beams  as  well. 

The  number  of  these  aboriginal  people  who 
lived  in  the  Salt  and  Gila  valleys  at  any  one  time 
is  largely  a  matter  of  conjecture.  The  150  miles 
or  more  of  irrigating  canals  which  comprise  the 
Salt  River  Valley  system  could  have  irrigated  ap- 
proximately 240,000  acres  of  land,  which  would 
have  been  sufficient  for  the  support  of  a  hundred 
thousand  people.  Besides  this  there  were  canals 
on  the  Gila  which  could  have  provided  sustenance 
for  the  support  of  a  hundred  thousand  more. 
However,  it  is  unlikely  that  all  these  canals  were 


HOUSE  AND  CANAL  BUILDERS  19 

in  use  at  any  one  time  or  that  all  of  the  fields 
under  them  were  continually  tilled. 

The  courses  of  the  Salt  and  Gila  rivers  are,  to 
some  degree,  ever  changing.  A  spring  flood  might 
so  cut  the  channel  of  the  river  at  the  intake  of  the 
canal  that  it  may  have  taken  a  year  or  more  to  re- 
pair it,  or  it  may  have  led  to  the  abandonment  of 
the  canal  in  favor  of  a  better  location.  Continuous 
cultivation  in  one  spot  might  partially  exhaust 
the  soil,  or  in  low  lands  alkali  might  rise  to  the 
surface. 

Also,  we  do  not  know  that  all  of  the  various 
centers  of  population,  large  and  small,  were  occu- 
pied at  the  same  time.  Scientists  like  Bandelier 
and  Mendeliff  remind  us  that  the  modern  Pueblan 
Indians  frequently  move  an  entire  village.  Speak- 
ing of  the  New  Mexican  Indians,  in  his  "Final 
Report,"  Bandelier  says,  "With  the  exception  of 
Acoma,  there  is  not  a  single  pueblo  standing  where 
it  was  at  the  time  of  Coronado;"  and  we  read 
in  Mendeliff's  "Aboriginal  Remains,"  "A  band  of 
500  village-building  Indians  may  leave  the  ruins 
of  fifty  villages  in  the  course  of  a  single  century." 

Still  we  must  remember  that  the  Hopi  villages, 
except  for  the  destruction  of  Awatabe,  were  pretty 
much  in  their  present  location  at  the  time  of 
Coronado,  and  that  like  them  and  Acoma,  the 
larger  aboriginal  cities  of  the  Salt  and  Gila  coun- 
tries, as  things  temporal  go,  were  reasonably  per- 
manent. 

At  Casa  Grande  the  excavations  made  by  Dr. 
J.  W.  Fewkes  showed  that  in  some  cases  com- 


20  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

munal  houses  were  built  upon  the  ruins  of  one  or 
two  earlier  buildings.  In  its  present  form  Casa 
Grande  has  been  known  since  the  seventeenth  cen- 
tury. For  how  many  centuries  previously  was  the 
house  as  we  now  see  it  occupied?  For  how  many 
centuries  more  were  the  earlier  houses  used? 

One  may  easily  be  pardoned  for  believing  that 
it  would  take  considerable  of  an  upheaval  to 
induce  the  inhabitants  of  either  Casa  Grande  or 
the  Pueblo  de  los  Muertos  to  abandon  it. 

So  to  go  back  to  our  original  theme,  even  if  the 
smaller  villages  could  change  their  locations  from 
time  to  time,  and  there  might  always  be  idle  land 
under  some  of  the  canals,  the  total  population  of 
Casa  Grande,  El  Pueblo  de  los  Muertos,  Casa 
Blanca,  Snake  Town,  the  Mesa  Ruin,  the  Cross  Cut 
Ruin  and  others  that  we  have  not  even  space  to 
mention — these  people  who  tilled  the  desert  acres, 
who  worshiped  their  gods  in  the  sanctuaries,  who 
danced  on  the  hard  earth  of  their  plazas  so  many 
3^ears  ago — might  easily  have  reached  a  very  con- 
siderable number. 

Cliff  dwellings  are  found  in  all  that  portion  of 
Arizona  lying  east  of  a  longitudinal  line  bisecting 
Prescott  and  north  of  the  latitude  of  Phoenix;  occa- 
sionally, too,  they  are  found  in  other  parts  of  the 
State. 

They  are  especially  numerous  along  the  upper 
reaches  of  the  Gila  and  Salt,  in  the  walls  of  the 
Canyon  de  Chelly,  in  and  about  Navajo  Mountain, 
and  other  places  where  friable  cliffs  with  natural 
recesses  could  be  enlarged  and  chambers  added  to 
the  original  niches. 


HOUSE  AND  CANAL  BUILDERS     21 

The  perfected  cliff  dwelling  consisted  of  a 
house  of  masonry  built  within  these  caves. 

The  simplest  of  the  habitations  might  consist 
of  but  one  small  room,  with  the  original  rock  form- 
ing all  the  sides  but  the  front,  while  the  more 
elaborate  would  be  veritable  castles — communal 
houses,  perhaps  five  stories  in  height,  and  contain- 
ing as  many  as  140  rooms. 

These  various  eyries  occur  at  all  levels,  some 
only  a  few  feet  from  the  base  of  the  cliff,  others 
several  hundred  feet  up  its  face,  access  to  which 
could  be  had  only  by  means  of  rude  stairways  cut 
in  the  rocks  or  by  means  of  ladders,  some  of  which 
are  still  in  existence — well  made  with  rounds  tied 
to  the  two  poles  with  stout  pieces  of  bark. 

In  the  better  class  of  buildings  the  workman- 
ship is  excellent.  The  stones  from  which  the  walls 
were  made,  while  rarely  dressed,  were  carefully 
selected  and  skillfully  laid  in  mortar,  with  both 
outside  and  inside  surfaces  regular  and  even.  The 
walls  were  often  plastered  on  the  inside  and  occa- 
sionally on  the  outside  as  well.  Sometimes  the 
inner  surfaces  were  covered  with  clay  paint.  All 
of  the  plastering  was  done  by  hand,  and  frequently 
the  original  finger  prints  can  easily  be  discerned. 

One  of  the  best  known  cliff  dwellings  in  Ari- 
zona is  the  one  styled  "Montezuma's  Castle."  This 
ancient  conmiunal  dwelling,  five  stories  in  height 
and  containing  many  rooms,  is  built  in  a  large 
recess  in  the  face  of  a  precipitous  limestone  cliff 
facing  Beaver  Creek,  a  tributary  of  the  Verde. 

The  bottom  of  the  building  is  forty  feet  above 


22  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

the  base  of  the  cliff,  and  the  natural  rock  which 
overhangs  it  gives  admirable  protection  from 
wearing  storms.  Thus  preserved  from  the  ele- 
ments and  inaccessible  to  visitors  save  by  means 
of  ladders,  it  is  in  comparatively  good  repair  and 
presents  a  sharp  contrast  to  the  buried  communal 
houses  of  the  desert. 

Ladders  were  also  used  as  means  of  passage 
from  floor  to  floor,  and,  as  is  the  case  in  all  aborigi- 
nal dwellings,  the  doorways  are  small;  this  is  for 
excellent  reasons.  In  the  winter  a  small  door 
admits  less  cold  air  than  a  large  one  and  is  more 
easily  covered  by  a  skin  curtain  or  a  stone.  Also, 
it  must  be  remembered,  that  the  aborigine  was 
ever  more  or  less  at  war  with  his  neighbor.  If  a 
friend,  upon  entering  the  house,  must  of  necessity 
bow  His  head,  it  may  be  ascribed  to  courtesy;  if  an 
enemy  is  forced  to  assume  the  same  posture  in 
making  his  entry,  he  is  in  an  admirable  position 
for  you  to  crack  him  over  the  head  with  your 
stone  ax. 

In  addition  to  those  in  Arizona,  cliff  dwellings 
in  large  numbers,  many  of  them  most  interesting 
and  elaborate,  have  been  found  in  New  Mexico 
and  Southern  Colorado  and  Utah,  and  from  them 
altogether  have  been  taken  such  a  variety  of  arti- 
cles that  we  have  even  a  better  conception  of 
their  inhabitants,  perhaps,  than  in  the  case  of  the 
desert  canal  builder. 

Many  of  the  articles,  especially  stone  imple- 
ments, were  similar  to  those  found  in  the  Pueblo 
de  los  Muertos.    Special  mention,  however,  should 


HOUSE  AND  CANAL  BUILDERS  23 

be  made  of  some  of  the  highland  pottery,  beautiful 
in  color  and  design,  and  with  a  glaze  that  has 
never  been  equalled  by  the  modern  Indian.  A 
curious  feather  cloth  has  been  found,  in  addition 
to  different  cotton  weaves;  also,  fiber  mats  and 
sandals,  as  well  as  bone  awls,  beads  and  the  like. 
From  the  cliffs  we  learn  that  the  leaves  of  the 
mescal  were  used  as  an  article  of  food  as  well  as 
the  usual  squash,  corn  and  beans. 

Dessicated  bodies,  or  mummies,  in  good  state 
of  preservation  have  been  exhumed  from  care- 
fully sealed  tombs.  The  bodies  had  first  been 
wrapped  in  cotton  cloth  of  fine  texture,  then  in  a 
piece  of  coarser  cotton  cloth  or  feather  cloth,  and 
finally  all  enclosed  in  matting  tied  with  a  cord 
made  of  the  fiber  of  cedar  bark. 

The  cliff  dwellers,  though  to  a  less  extent  than 
the  canal  builders  of  the  desert,  also  were  farmers. 
Leading  from  "Montezuma's  Well,"  a  small, 
curious  basin  of  very  deep  water,  ten  miles  north 
of  Montezuma's  Castle,  an  ancient  canal  of  these 
people  can  easily  be  followed.  The  water  was  and 
is  strongly  impregnated  wdth  lime  and  made  a 
coating  of  natural  cement  which  remains  to  mark 
the  sides  and  bottom  of  this  waterway  of  an  all- 
but-Torgotten  day. 

In  considering  these  people  it  must  be  remem- 
bered that  not  all  of  the  tribesmen  of  the  cliff 
dwellers  lived  in  cliffs.  In  the  famous  ruins  in 
the  Rito  de  los  Frijoles  (Bean  Canyon)  in  New 
Mexico,  the  ancient  city  of  Tj'-u-on-ji,  all  the  part 
of  one  tremendous  communal  dwelling,  resting  on 


24  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

the  canyon  floor,  according  to  Bandolier,  was  occu- 
pied by  a  portion  of  the  same  people  who  at  the 
same  time  were  dwelling  in  the  cliffs  of  the  Rito's 
sides.  There  was  also  a. type  of  small  stone  house 
that  was  built  on  the  New  Mexican  plateau  whose 
antiquity  is  supposed  to  antedate  the  cliff  dwell- 
ings. The  larger  communal  house  of  the  New 
Mexican  plateau  came  later.  Stone  houses  in  Ari- 
zona, like  the  one  whose  ruins  now  stands  on  the 
brink  of  Montezuma's  Well,  were  doubtless  built 
and  occupied  by  the  cliff  dwellers. 

As  a  little  sidelight  on  the  manners  of  these 
people,  it  is  interesting  to  note  that  near  many  of 
the  cliff  dwellings,  as  well  as  in  different  places 
near  the  old  desert  habitations,  aboriginal  artists 
have  carved  smooth  surfaces  of  the  cliffs  and  large 
boulders  with  a  variety  of  drawings,  pricked  into 
the  surface  of  the  rock  by  means  of  stone  imple- 
ments. 

Some  of  these,  like  the  pictographs  which  adorn 
the  cliff  above  Apache  Springs  on  the  south  side 
of  the  Superstition  Mountains,  are,  for  the  most 
part,  outlines  of  animals — mountain  sheep,  deer, 
antelope,  mountain  lions  and  the  like.  Clearly 
this  was  simply  an  open-air  gallery  where  the 
artists  of  the  tribe  produced  evidences  of  their 
skill  for  the  pleasure  and  admiration  of  their  fel- 
low tribesmen. 

Other  drawings,  like  some  of  those  found  in 
San  Tan  Canyon,  near  the  Gila,  doubtless  have  a 
symbolic  meaning.  Here  we  find  the  conventional 
drawings  of  a  deity,  the  sun  with  rays,  and  various 


HOUSE  AND  CANAL  BUILDERS  25 

geometrical  designs,  all  of  which  seem  to  have  had 
an  esoteric  significance. 

There  is  abundant  evidence  that  the  tribes  of 
these  ancient  people,  as  is  the  case  with  many  of 
the  modern  Pueblo  Indians  of  the  Southwest,  were 
divided  into  various  clans,  each  of  which  had  its 
own  private  ceremonies,  and  it  is  thought  that 
some  of  these  drawings  were  symbolic  of  their 
ritual. 

Just  who  the  various  peoples  were — the  canal 
and  the  house  builder  of  the  desert,  and  the  cave, 
cliff  and  house  dweller  of  the  highlands — is  a 
matter  of  more  or  less  conjecture.  Different 
groups  of  them  doubtless  talked  different  lan- 
guages and  in  some  cases  were  possibly  of  differ- 
ent stock,  yet  all  seemed  to  be  linked  together  by 
a  similar  culture  and  a  similar  state  of  civilization. 

The  accepted  theory  is  that  these  people  came 
from  the  south,  but  whether  their  culture  was  the 
result  of  some  connection  with  other  advanced 
tribes  is  obscure. 

The  Mayan  bell  found  by  William  Lossing  cer- 
tainly indicates  that  articles  of  trade  had  found 
their  way  up  from  the  Mayan  country.  In  the 
University  of  Arizona,  Prof.  Byron  Cummings  has 
a  number  of  stones  found  in  the  Salt  River  Valley 
on  which  faces  and  other  designs  are  etched  that 
bear  strong  resemblance  to  Toltec  work,  and 
although  the  contrary  has  often  been  stated  to  be 
the  case,  at  least  one  image  bearing  the  Aztec  char- 
acteristics has  been  found  in  the  Salt  River  Vallej'^; 
so  it  would  seem  well  within  the  limits  of  possibili- 


26  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

ties  that  not  only  did  our  people  have  knowledge 
of  the  higher  cultural  tribes  mentioned,  but  also 
may  have  had  their  tribal  blood  enriched  by  them. 

Conservative  as  they  are,  Indian  blood  changes 
steadily,  if  but  slowly.  Members  of  friendly  tribes 
intermarry  in  the  usual  way.  Male  members  of 
hostile  tribes  steal  women  from  one  another — 
also  in  the  usual  way.  Navajos  are  said  to  have 
learned  blanket  weaving  from  stolen  Pueblan 
women — their  descendants  inheriting  the  inclina- 
tion and  aptitude. 

As  has  always  been  the  case  since  our  knowl- 
edge of  man  commenced,  a  group  of  humans, 
stimulated  by  new  conditions  of  environment  or 
changed  by  some  new  infusion  of  blood  suddenly, 
in  this  respect  or  that,  rises  head  and  shoulders 
above  its  fellows,  and  afterwards  its  descendants, 
influenced  further  by  environment  or  habit  as  well 
as  heredity,  add  to  and  crystallize  these  traits  into 
form,  and  a  new  people  takes  its  place  in  evolu- 
tion's long  march  upward.  Thus  it  may  have  been 
with  the  tribes  we  are  considering. 

As  to  when  they  first  made  their  appearance  in 
Arizona  the  question,  naturally,  is  a  most  interest- 
ing one.  In  speaking  of  the  cliff  dwellers,  George 
A.  Dorsey,  curator  of  anthropology  at  the  Field 
Museum,  says: 

" .  .  .  It  must  be  admitted  in  regard  to  cer- 
tain ruins,  there  is  no  evidence  that  they  were  not 
occupied  several  thousand  years  ago,"  while  Ralph 
Emerson  Twitchel,  in  his  "Leading  Facts  of  New 
Mexican  History,"  writes,  "Just  when  the  occu- 


HOUSE  AND  CANAL  BUILDERS     27 

pancy  of  the  cliffs  began,  whether  five  hundred  or 
five  thousand  years  ago,  will  probably  always 
remain  a  mooted  question." 

Persistent  stories  are  heard  of  ruins  found 
where  lava  has  flowed  over  built  walls  or  ollas, 
giving  proof  of  an  antiquity  that  reaches  back  to 
no  one  can  say  how  many  thousands  of  years. 
There  is  just  one  thing  that  keeps  us  from  repeat- 
ing here  some  of  the  most  interesting  of  these. 
Prof.  Byron  Cummings,  of  the  University  of  Ari- 
zona, who  has  for  years  been  making  scientific 
investigations  of  Arizona  ruins,  said  every  time 
he  heard  of  a  ruin  that  had  been  covered  by  lava 
he  had  visited  it — but  he  had  never  found  the  lava. 

Some  of  the  writers  are  of  the  opinion  that  the 
ruins  in  the  Salt  River  Valley  are  even  older  than 
the  cliff  dwellings.  Frank  Gushing  was  of  the 
opinion  that  the  people  who  built  "Los  Muertos" 
were  there  considerably  over  a  thousand  years 
ago. 

That  the  tribes  into  which  these  people  were 
divided  lived  for  a  long  period  in  their  various 
places  of  abode  may  be  easily  deduced  from  the 
range  of  antiquity  shown  in  the  condition  of  the 
different  ruins.  The  walls  of  the  present  Casa 
Grande,  for  example,  both  in  the  upper  and  lower 
floors,  were  in  fairly  good  condition  centuries  after 
other  communal  houses  along  the  Salt  were  re- 
duced to  mounds  of  earth,  while  with  the  cliff 
dwellings,  if  one  did  not  know  better,  an  observer 
might  fancy  that  Montezuma's  Gastle  was  peopled 
a  decade  ago,  it  is  in  such  good  repair. 


28  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

No  less  interesting  than  the  question  of  who 
these  people  were  is  the  one,  what  became  of  them 
all?  The  old,  popular  theory  was  that  at  a  time 
long  ago  the  desert,  canyon  and  mountain-top  were 
all  teeming  with  countless  multitudes  of  people 
when  suddenly,  all  in  a  day  perhaps,  some  awful 
catastrophe,  some  dire  cataclysm  occurred,  and 
to  the  last  man,  woman  and  child  they  were  wiped 
from  the  face  of  the  earth!  Dramatic,  truly;  only 
it  can  scarcely  be  so. 

As  to  just  what  did  happen,  while  there  was  no 
aboriginal  Gibbon  to  write  in  graphic  sentences  of 
their  decline  and  exit,  let  us  see  if  by  keeping  in 
mind  all  we  know  we  can  not  place  a  picture 
before  our  eyes  that  will  not  be  wholly  remote 
from  the  truth. 

To  begin  with,  let  us  turn  our  mental  calendars 
back  to  the  time  when  the  Moors  ruled  Spain  and 
Pepin  was  King  of  the  Franks,  and  conjure  a 
vision  of  the  irrigated  farms  and  communal  dwell- 
ings of  the  desert  people  of  the  Salt  River  Valley. 

It  is  late  summer,  and  in  a  field  our  aboriginal 
farmer,  clad  only  in  sandals  and  breech  clout 
(additional  clothing  is  for  a  cooler  season),  gathers 
his  rather  runty  ears  of  corn  and  big  pods  of  beans. 
Working  with  him  is  his  broad-backed  spouse, 
wearing  possibly  a  kilt  of  antelope  skin,  with  a 
cotton  garment  of  some  sort  covering  the  upper 
part  of  her  body.  She  piles  the  corn  and  beans 
into  her  basket,  and  on  her  head  carries  load  after 
load  to  the  family  granary. 

On   an  adjoining  farm,  perhaps,  the  woman 


HOUSE  AND  CANAL  BUILDERS  29 

may  be  kneeling  at  the  grinding  stones  making 
meal  of  the  blue  and  white  kernels  of  corn  piled 
beside  her,  putting  quite  as  much  muscle  into  her 
work  as  do  the  men  near  by  who  are  dressing 
skins  or  polishing  hand  axes. 

If  we  shift  our  point  of  view  some  eighty  miles 
to  the  northeast  to  the  Verde  River  we  shall  see,  on 
the  same  day  perhaps,  a  distant  kinsman  of  our 
desert  rancher,  climbing  by  means  of  well  built 
ladders  up  the  face  of  a  precipitous  cliff  a  hun- 
dred feet  or  more,  carrying  a  basket  full  of  flat 
stones  to  where  his  waiting  spouse,  standing  on 
the  edge  of  a  niche  in  the  rock,  mortars  the  stones 
in  the  wall  that  will  make  the  front  of  their  domi- 
cile. Still  on  the  same  day,  if  our  mental  vision 
holds  out,  we  can  look  down  upon  a  highland  vil- 
lage on  the  Mogollon  plateau  and  see  in  front  of  a 
house  resembling  in  shape  the  desert  dwelling,  but 
made  of  stone,  a  woman  before  a  primitive  loom 
weaving  cotton  cloth,  while  the  men  make  arrow 
heads  of  pieces  of  obsidian,  or,  if  we  drop  in  later, 
and  enter  one  of  the  ceremonial  chambers,  we 
might  see  some  of  the  older  members  of  the  tribe 
debating  matters  of  tribal  importance  or  taking 
part  with  the  priests  in  a  ceremonial  petition  to 
"Those  Above"  for  rain,  or  success  in  battle. 

Years,  even  centuries,  of  such  life  go  on;  there 
is  water  for  the  farmer  and  game  for  the  hunter. 
Then  comes  a  change,  and  drought  follows 
drought.  Down  in  the  desert  country  the  corn  in 
the  granaries  is  almost  exhausted.  There  comes 
a  day  when  the  predecessors  of  the  savage  Ute  or 


30  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Apache  attack  the  village  on  the  Salt  and  carry  it 
by  storm.  They  kill  the  defenders,  fire  the  roofs 
and  watch  the  walls  topple  over  on  the  bodies  of 
their  victims.  What  corn  there  is  left  they  carry 
away. 

Is  it  difficult  to  imagine  after  an  experience 
like  this  that  the  fleeting  remnant  from  the  village 
thus  sacked  would  go  by  night,  a  frightened  band 
of  fugitives,  to  join  their  kinsmen  who  lived  in 
the  fastnesses  of  the  rocks?  What  if  the  tillage 
of  the  soil  would  be  less  fruitful;  it  was  enough  if 
the  caverns  in  the  lofty  cliffs  would  give  them 
sanctuary. 

However,  we  need  not  imagine  that  all  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  desert  ranches  went  at  one  time 
or  that  war  was  always  the  impelling  force.  We 
have  already  seen  how  such  calamities  as  pesti- 
lence, loss  of  irrigation  water,  or  deterioration  of 
the  soil  might  cause  a  community  to  move  from 
one  spot  to  another  in  the  same  region.  These 
and  similar  happenings  might  induce  a  people  to 
leave  their  former  surroundings  altogether. 

Still  more  centuries  pass  and  we  witness  the 
final  abandonment  of  the  cliflTs.  Why  did  they 
leave?  Perhaps  it  slowly  developed  that  the 
eyries  were  not  as  impregnable  as  first  appeared. 
Certainly  it  must  have  been  difficult  to  store  water 
enough  in  their  caves  to  withstand  a  long  siege, 
and  always  there  must  have  been  auxiliary  meth- 
ods of  defense  and  counter  attack. 

Presumably  wilh  the  changes  in  fighting  tactics 
it  appeared  that  a  village  on  a  mesa  top  fronting 
a  high  escarpment  offered  as  much  protection  and 


HOUSE  AND  CANAL  BUILDERS     31 

far  more  conveniences  than  a  shallow  recess  five 
hundred  feet  up  a  precipitous  cliff.  Possibly  the 
time  came  when  the  dwellers  in  these  retreats  felt 
strong  enough  to  cope  with  their  enemies  on  differ- 
ent terms. 

Two  things  we  may  be  positive  about:  they 
did  not  go  because  they  had  to  go,  and  they  were 
not  annihilated.  Scourged  by  pestilence  they 
doubtless  were,  and  ravaged  by  war,  but  a  rem- 
nant ever  remained.  The  cliff  dwellers  left  their 
eyries  because  they  wanted  to,  and  moved  to  the 
^  table-lands  because  they  thought  the  change  would 
be  an  improvement  on  their  former  way  of  living. 

Indeed,  as  we  look  at  the  ruins  of  the  villages 
up  and  down  the  Little  Colorado  and  throughout 
Tusayan,  we  can  see  that  they  did  very  consider- 
able moving  during  the  many  years  before  the 
Spaniards  came,  and,  also,  to  some  extent  after- 
wards. 

Here  we  arrive  at  the  answer  to  our  problem. 
The  people  we  have  been  considering  never  were 
exterminated.  Their  descendants  are  living  today, 
and  their  relation  with  the  ancient  people  is 
shown  not  only  by  the  similarity  of  their  building, 
their  pottery  and  the  patterns  in  their  cloth,  but 
by  studying  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  ceremonial 
chambers  and  bits  of  sacerdotal  paraphernalia 
found  within  them  and  fitting  them  to  what  we 
know  of  the  modern  tribes,  the  connection  between 
the  two  is  undeniable. 

It  is  not  to  be  expected  that  the  stock  has  been 
kept  pure  all  the  centuries  from  the  Pueblo  de  los 


32  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Muertos  or  Montezuma's  Castle  to  the  present,  but 
the  characteristics  of  the  people  and  much  of  its 
culture  has  been  kept  intact,  and  the  Hopi  of  Ari- 
zona, and  the  inhabitants  of  such  pueblos  as  Zuni, 
Acoma  and  Cochiti  in  New  Mexico,  in  all  likeli- 
hood are  the  direct  descendants  of  both  the  canal 
builder  of  the  desert  and  the  cliff  dweller  of  the 
hills. 


Chapter  II 
THE  COMING  OF  THE  SPANIARDS 

ALTHOUGH  Fray  Marcos  of  Niza  was  the  first 
white  man,  so  far  as  authenticated  records 
go,  to  enter  the  land  that  is  now  known  as 
Arizona,  there  is  a  possibility  that  the  distinction 
^should  belong  to  another,  who,  like  De  Niza,  was 
also  a  member  of  the  Order  of  St.  Francis. 

Early  in  1538  the  provincial  of  the  Franciscans 
of  New  Spain  sent  Juan  de  la  Asuncion  and  Pedro 
Nedal  on  a  mission  beyond  the  borders  of  New 
Galicia  (Sinaloa),  and  although  it  has  never  been 
satisfactorily  verified,  it  is  believed  by  some  au- 
thorities that  Asuncion,  at  least,  may  have  reached 
either  the  Gila  or  Colorado  rivers  near  the  con- 
fluence of  those  streams,  though  in  summing  up 
the  matter  the  careful  Bandolier  says  the  evidence 
does  not  come  up  to  the  requirements  of  historical 
certainty. 

The  immediate  events  leading  up  to  the  famous 
journey  of  De  Niza  may  be  said  to  have  had  their 
genesis  with  the  arrival  of  Alvar  Nunez  Gabeza  de 
Vaca  and  his  companions  in  Culiacan  at  the  end  of 
their  perilous  trip  across  the  continent. 

De  Vaca,  it  will  be  remembered,  was  treasurer 
and  "high  constable"  of  the  ill-starred  expedition 
of  Don  Panfilo  Narvaez,  who  was  authorized  by 

33 


34  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

the  Council  of  the  Indies  to  sail  for  the  New  World 
and  conquer  the  country  from  the  Rio  de  las 
Palmas  to  the  Cape  of  Florida. 

From  its  start  the  history  of  the  expedition  is  a 
continuous  narration  of  disaster.  Landing  on  the 
west  coast  of  Florida,  April  14,  1528,  the  four  hun- 
dred men  that  made  up  the  company  decreased  in 
numbers  with  appalling  inevitableness.  Two  hun- 
dred and  forty-seven  was  the  count,  when,  after 
losing  their  ships  and  facing  starvation  in  a  hos- 
tile country,  they  embarked  in  rude  boats  of  their 
own  manufacture.  In  a  stormy  voyage  along  the 
northern  coast  line  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  their 
numbers  decreased  to  eighty,  and  later  to  four  by 
additional  disasters.  These  four,  however,  De 
Vaca,  Alonzo  del  Castillo  Maldonado,  Andres 
Dorantes  and  his  negro  slave,  Estevan,  a  native 
of  Morocco,  have  made  enduring  names  for  them- 
selves in  history. 

After  many  attempts  they  succeeded  in  escap- 
ing from  the  natives  who  held  them  in  semi- 
captivity  near  the  coast,  when  they  struck  out 
boldly  toward  the  west  through  what  was  to  them 
an  absolutely  unknown  wilderness,  hoping  that 
somehow  they  would  find  the  settlements  of  New 
Spain. 

Doubtless  even  with  their  wonderful  endurance 
and  intrepid  courage  they  would  have  failed  had 
it  not  been  for  the  reputation  that  Castillo  and  De 
Vaca  achieved  as  medicine  men,  both  themselves 
and  the  Indians  believing  that  they  could  cure  all 
diseases  and  even  raise  the  dead  by  supernatural 
powers. 


THE  COMING  OF  THE  SPANIARDS         35 

The  first  of  their  countrymen  they  met  was  a 
small  scouting  party  encountered  after  many 
months  of  arduous  traveling  through  Texas  (possi- 
bly New  Mexico),  Chihuahua  and  Sonora.  Here, 
soon  after  they  had  crossed  the  Rio  Yaqui,  they 
came  up  with  Capt.  Diego  de  Alcaraz,  who,  with  his 
men,  was  engaged  in  the  common  occupation  of 
Spanish  soldiers  under  the  cruel  Guzman,  of  har- 
rowing and  enslaving  the  natives. 

April  1,  1536,  eight  years  after  they  had  landed 
^n  Florida,  the  four  refugees  arrived  in  Culiacan, 
where  "with  tears  and  praising  God,"  they  were 
received  by  the  alcalde,  Melchior  Diaz. 

De  Vaca  was  the  historian  of  the  party,  and 
although  his  account  was  in  the  main  temperate 
and  conservative,  it  made  a  profound  sensation  in 
New  Spain,  the  more  so  as  it  was  coupled  with 
fabulous  rumors  then  current  in  Mexico  concern- 
ing a  wonderful  countr>^  to  the  north.  The  most 
persistent  of  these  tales,  started  by  stories  of 
Indians  and  romantically  embellished,  concerned 
the  seven  wonderful  cities  of  Cibola,  which  in  the 
end  finally  proved  to  be  seven  Indian  villages  in 
the  Zuni  country.  New  Mexico.  In  the  stories, 
however,  these  towns  were  larger  than  the  City  of 
Mexico  itself,  and  in  the  center  of  a  land  so  rich 
in  gold  and  silver  that  cooking  utensils  were  made 
of  these  precious  metals. 

The  year  before  De  Vaca  reached  civilization, 
Antonio  de  Mendoza,  an  able  and  deeply  religious 
man,  had  been  appointed  viceroy,  and  upon  the 
arrival  of  the  refugees  at  the  capital  he  entertained 


36  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

them  royally,  and  determined,  upon  hearing  their 
story,  that  for  the  glory  of  the  church  and  emperor, 
he  would  add  this  country  of  the  north  to  their 
dominion. 

After  consulting  with  Bishop  Bartolome  de  las 
Casas  and  Francisco  Vasquez  Coronado,  the  vice- 
roy decided  that  instead  of  sending  at  the  outset  a 
large  force  of  soldiers,  he  would  dispatch  one  or 
two  friars  to  spy  out  the  land. 

Friars  were  always  good  travelers,  resourceful, 
and,  where  there  was  a  chance  of  winning  souls, 
wholly  fearless.  With  their  piety  and  tact  they 
might  easily  make  a  better  impression  upon  the 
natives  of  the  country  than  the  soldiers,  and  hav- 
ing no  worldly  interests  to  bias  their  reports,  they 
could  be  believed  implicitly. 

At  that  time  Marcos  de  Niza,  a  member  of  the 
Franciscan  brotherhood,  was  holding  the  office 
of  vice  commissioner  of  New  Spain  and  engaged, 
under  the  viceroy's  orders,  in  instructing  a  large 
number  of  friendly  Indians  in  the  tenets  of  the 
church  as  well  as  teaching  them  the  Spanish  lan- 
guage. He  was  held  in  high  esteem  by  his  own 
order,  and  had  been  with  Pizarro  in  Peru. 

Impressed  with  the  fitness  of  the  man,  the 
viceroy  selected  him  to  undertake  this  perilous 
excursion  into  the  Northwest.  With  the  friar  he 
would  send  Estevan,  the  negroid  Moor  (whom 
Mendoza  had  already  purchased  from  Andres 
Durantes)  and  a  number  of  the  Christian  Indians 
that  had  been  with  De  Vaca  and  who  might  be 
able  to  act  as  interpreters  with  part  at  least  of  the 
northern  tribes. 


THE  COMING  OF  THE  SPANIARDS         37 

Thus,  without  ostentation,  the  excursion 
started,  Coronado  accompanying  it  as  far  as  Culi- 
acan.  From  that  point,  on  March  7,  1539,  Fray 
Marcos  having  a  companion  in  a  Friar  Onorato, 
the  party  journeyed  northward. 

For  a  while  everything  went  most  auspiciously, 
the  natives  being  specially  friendly,  as  word  had 
been  sent  out  that  the  viceroy  had  ordered  that 
the  Indians  should  not  thereafter  be  enslaved  but 
treated  with  all  kindness.  However,  when  they 
reached  the  Indian  village  of  Petatlan,  Onorato 
was  taken  ill,  and  Fray  Marcos  was  obliged  to  go 
on  without  him. 

The  expedition  followed  the  line  of  the  coast 
for  several  leagues,  but  after  crossing  the  Rio 
Mayo  turned  inland,  and  upon  reaching  the  im- 
portant village  of  Vacapa,  the  friar  decided  to 
remain  for  a  time,  sending  Estavan  ahead  to  make 
a  reconnaissance. 

He  told  the  negro  to  go  north  fifty  or  sixty 
leagues,  and  if  he  made  any  discoveries  of  moment, 
either  to  return  in  person  or  to  send  a  message  and 
stay  where  he  was  until  he  should  arrive. 

As  the  negro  had  no  knowledge  of  writing,  the 
message  was  to  be  sent  by  a  cross.  One  the  size  of 
a  man's  hand  would  indicate  the  discovery  to  be 
of  small  importance,  while  if  the  matter  was  of 
very  great  moment,  indeed,  one  twice  that  size 
might  be  sent.  Imagine  the  good  friar's  state  of 
mind  when,  four  days  later,  the  Indians  returned 
bearing  a  cross  as  tall  as  the  friar  himself,  and 
with  it  came  not  alone  the  old  story  of  Cibola,  but 


38  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

accounts  of  three  other  magnificent  cities  which 
lay  beyond  them,  Marata,  Acus  and  Totonteac, 
whose  glories  even  outshone  those  of  Cibola. 

It  may  be  said  here  that  such  towns  really 
existed,  much  as  they,  or  similar  Indian  pueblos, 
exist  today,  interesting  undoubtedly,  but  scarcely 
glorious;  Marata  being,  like  Cibola,  in  the  Zuni 
country,  while  Acus  is  the  high-perched  Acoma, 
and  Totonteac  one  of  a  group  of  Hopi  towns  now 
in  ruins. 

Glowing  as  was  the  report  that  his  servant  sent 
him,  the  worthy  Fray  Marcos  does  not  seem  to 
have  been  specially  stampeded,  for  he  waited  two 
days  longer  and  then  continued  his  journey,  going 
up  the  beautiful  Sonora  Valley,  of  which  he  "took 
possession"  in  the  name  of  the  viceroy  and  the 
emperor. 

The  Indians  he  found  here,  whom  he  called  the 
"Painted  Ones,"  and  who  may  have  been  the  Pimas 
or  Papagos,  received  the  reverend  traveler  with 
all  kindness,  presenting  him  with  quail,  rabbits 
and  pine  nuts.  They  also  told  him  that  the  people 
of  Totonteac  wore  garments  made  of  stuff  like  his 
woolen  frock  which  they  obtained  from  animals 
about  the  size  of  greyhounds. 

When  they  reached  the  head  of  the  valley  the 
friar  and  his  party  passed  over  the  divide  and 
descended  into  the  valley  of  the  San  Pedro,  where 
a  short  journey  brought  them  into  what  is  now  the 
border  of  Arizona. 

All   along   the   RiQ_.San„Pedro,   Fray   Marcos_ 
reported  that  he  found  a  most  prosperous  people 


THE  COMING  OF  THE  SPANIARDS         39. 

who  lived  in  villages  a  quarter  to  a  half  a  league 
apart,  and  were  well  dressed  and  wearing  many 
turquoises. . 

When  he  reached  the  mouth  of  the  San  Pedro, 
he  crossed  the  Gila  above  the  confluence  of  the 
two  streams,  and,  while  camping  there,  received 
his  first  word  from  Estavan  since  the  message  of 
the  cross.  The  negro,  it  seemed,  was  having  what 
may  be  described  as  a  tour  de  luxe  through  the 
country,  for  the  Indians  reported  that  he  had 
decked  himself  out  wdth  feathers  about  his  wrists 
and  ankles,  and,  like  a  field  marshal  might  carry 
a  baton,  bore  with  him  a  gourd  adorned  with  two 
feathers,  one  of  red  and  one  of  white,  besides  a 
string  of  bells. 

Certainly  he  had  succeeded  in  impressing  the 
natives  with  his  importance,  for  they  had  given 
him  as  an  escort  of  honor,  three  hundred  or  more 
men  and  women.  He  was  not  waiting  for  orders 
from  his  pious  master,  as  he  had  been  instructed. 
Quite  the  contrary-.  He  was  the  conquering  hero 
going  through  the  countrj'^  in  state,  while  his  bare- 
foot, brown-gowned  master  might  follow  as  he 
would.  He  left  word  that  he  was  on  his  way  to 
Cibola,  which  lay  beyond  the  mountains. 

On  M^^[^9^Ji539,  Fray  Marcos  again  set  out  on 
his  journey,  following  the  path  Estavan  had  taken, 
selecting  only  thirty  men  of  the  large  number  of 
natives  who  wanted  to  accompany  him.  After 
they  had  left  the  camp,  to  his  great  surprise,  his 
guides  soon  led  him  into  a  well-beaten  trail  which 
they  followed  for  much  of  their  journey,  and  each 


40  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

night  he  found  a  shelter  which  had  been  prepared 
by  members  of  his  own  party  who  had  gone  ahead. 

For  twelve  days  they  journeyed  through  the 
White  and  Mogollon  mountains,  whose  peaks  were 
covered  with  snow,  living  well  on  the  deer,  rabbit 
and  quail  with  which  his  hospitable  guides  pro- 
vided him;  then,  when  near  the  Continental  divide, 
they  were  met  by  an  Indian  who  had  been  with 
Estavan,  and  who  brought  the  direful  information 
that  while  the  negro  had  indeed  reached  Cibola, 
instead  of  meeting  with  the  cordial  welcome  he 
had  hoped  for,  he  had  been  slain. 

At  this,  naturally,  the  friar's  escort  was  much 
alarmed,  but  with  the  aid  of  gifts,  De  Niza  induced 
them  to  proceed  with  him.  The  next  day  they 
came  across  two  more  of  Estavan's  escort  who 
gave  him  the  details  of  his  servant's  murder. 

It  seems  that  when  Estavan  had  come  in  sight 
of  Cibola  he  had  sent  his  much  adorned  gourd 
ahead  to  the  chiefs  of  the  town,  and  doubtless 
remembering  what  prestige  the  claim  had  given 
De  Vaca,  instructed  his  envoys  to  say  that  he  was 
a  great  medicine  man. 

Whether  the  Cibolans  may  have  thought  that 
Estavan's  "medicine"  was  bad,  and  that  he  prac- 
ticed an  art  as  black  as  his  skin,  or  whether,  as 
some  commentators  suggest,  the  gourd  was  a  sym- 
bol of  a  people  with  whom  the  city  was  at  enmity, 
or  whether  it  was  simply  the  arrogance  of  the 
man,  in  any  event  the  chiefs  received  the  deputa- 
tion with  every  indication  of  enmity,  and  throwing 
the  gourd  to  the  ground,  told  their  visitors  to  say 


THE  COMING  OF  THE  SPANIARDS         41 

to  their  chief  that  he  must  leave  at  once  or  "not 
one  of  them  would  be  left  alive." 

However,  no  matter  how  much  Estavan  may 
have  lacked  in  tact  and  obedience,  he  seems  to 
have  had  no  want  of  courage,  for,  decked  with 
feathers  and  bells,,  he  advanced  confidently  to  the 
town,  which  was  the  usual  pueblan  community 
made  up  of  adobe  pyramidal  houses — anything  but 
the  magnificent  city  of  the  Cibolan  traditions. 

When  the  negro  reached  the  edge  of  the  vil- 
lage, which  was  situated  on  a  sharp  rise  of  ground, 
the  chiefs  would  allow  neither  him  nor  his  escort 
to  enter,  but  stripped  the  negro  of  his  trappings 
and  robbed  him  of  his  possessions. 

The  discomfited  visitors  spent  the  night  out- 
side of  the  walls,  and  in  the  morning,  while  trjang 
to  escape,  the  Cibolans  pursued  and  killed  not 
only  Estavan  but  some  of  his  followers. 

It  may  be  noted  here  that  Cibola  was,  in  all 
probabilit3%  Hawaikuh,  one  of  the  cities  of  the 
Zunis  just  across  the  border  from  Arizona  in  New 
Mexico.  A  tradition  is  still  current  there  that  a 
long  time  ago  a  ver}'^  bad  "Black  Mexican"  from 
the  south  visited  them,  and  they  killed  him  with 
stones  and  buried  him  under  them.  A  variation 
of  the  tale  is  that  the  "Wise  Men"  of  the  pueblo 
escorted  him  to  its  edge  and  gave  him  a  kick  so 
powerful  that  he  never  struck  earth  again  until  he 
reached  the  country  from  whence  he  came. 

The  possibilities  of  what  the  Cibolans  in  their 
present  state  of  mind  might  do  to  a  second  for- 
eigner might  well  have  daunted  even  Fray  Marcos' 


42  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

strong  heart,  but  instead  of  retreating,  with  gifts 
and  brave  words  to  encourage  his  escort,  he  went 
resohitely  forward,  determined  to  have  a  look,  at 
least,  at  the  city  of  his  dreams,  no  matter  what  the 
cost. 

When  he  came  in  sight  of  the  pueblo  he  was 
much  affected.  From  a  distance  the  several  stories 
of  its  perhaps  two  hundred  dwellings  did  make 
something  of  an  appearance,  especially  when  an 
observer  had  an  imagination  strong  enough  to 
supply  what  vision  failed  to  record. 

With  due  solemnity  and  deliberation,  though 
everj'^  minute  must  have  been  fraught  with  danger. 
Fray  Marcos  of  Niza  raised  a  mound  of  stones, 
planted  a  cross  on  it  and  in  due  form  "took  pos- 
session" of  all  the  country  he  could  see,  in  the 
name  of  the  viceroy  and  the  emperor. 

However,  when  the  ceremony  was  over,  "with 
more  fright  than  food,"  as  he  frankly  put  it,  he 
hastily  started  on  his  return  journey  to  New  Spain. 

When  several  months  later  he  reached  the 
City  of  Mexico  and  had  audience  with  Mendosa, 
he  had  a  great  tale  to  unfold.  Coronado  after- 
wards very  flatly  said  that  the  most  he  told  was 
not  so  at  all,  and  the  little  that  was  so  was  ex- 
tremely highly  colored,  but  we  must  remember 
that  when  the  gallant  captain  said  that  he  was  a 
greatly  disappointed  man. 

It  is  far  more  likely  that  the  good  Fray  Mar- 
cos— whose  excellent  reputation  covered  many 
years — was  simply  a  glorious  and  unreliable 
optimist.    Much  of  his  conversation  with  Arizona 


THE  COMING  OF  THE  SPANIAUDS         43 

Indians  had  doubtless  been  confined  to  signs, 
and  he  translated  what  they  really  did  mean  into 
what  he  wanted  them  to  mean.  Other  enthusiasts 
have  done  the  same  thing.  In  any  event,  he 
spun  a  great  yarn.  The  buildings  were  not  only 
many  stories  in  height  and  built  of  stone,  but 
the  walls  were  set  .with  turquoises.  The  women 
"^wore  strings  of  gold  beads,  and  the  men  girdles 
of  gold  and  white  woolen  dresses,  and  they  had 
sheep  and  cows  and  partridges  and  slaughter- 
houses and  iron  forges.  And  as  if  this  were  not 
enough,  he  added,  "They  use  vessels  of  gold  and 
silver,  for  they  have  no  other  metal,  whereof  there/ 
is  greater  use  and  more  abundant  than  in  Peru.'.LJ 

It  is  wholly  possible  that  de  Niza  did  not  tell 
the  viceroy  all  the  things  that  are  attributed  to 
him,  but  what  he  did  tell  was  enough  to  make 
Mendosa  immediately  decide  upon  the  conquest  of 
the  country. 

Although  he  enjoined  the  greatest  secrecy  upon 
the  friar,  the  story  was  too  sensational  to  keep, 
and  within  a  few  days  the  capital  was  aflame  with 
excitement.  Here  was  a  chance  for  such  captains 
as  Cortez,  Guzman  and  Alvarado  to  conquer  more 
worlds;  here  was  an  opportunity  for  the  scores  of 
young  nobles  lounging  about  the  plazas  of  the  city 
to  gain  both  gold  and  glory. 

The  captains  took  the  first  ship  for  Spain, 
where  they  hoped  to  get  permits  for  exploration 
from  the  Emperor  Charles,  while  the  young  blades 
daily  besieged  Mendoza  for  commissions. 

The  viceroy  was  a  man  of  quick  action,  and 


44  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

while  his  rivals  were  still  across  the  sea  petitioning 
their  monarch,  Mendoza  completed  his  plans. 
Don  Francisco  Vasquez  de  Coronado,  a  young 
Spanish  nobleman,  and  for  a  short  time  governor 
of  New  Galicia,  was  to  be  captain  general,  and 
Pedro  de  Castaneda  de  Nacera,  also  of  good  birth, 
historian. 

The  army  of  conquest,  which  was  to  be  of  suffi- 
cient size  to  absolutely  insure  success,  was  mobil- 
ized at  Compostella,  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  and  on 
the  morning  of  February  23,  1540,  the  most  splen- 
did body  of  troops  ever  brought  together  in  New 
Spain  passed  out  of  the  city  before  the  admiring 
eyes  of  Mendoza  and  his  staff. 

First  came  three  hundred  cavaliers,  young  men 
of  the  best  blood  of  Spain,  mounted  on  the  pick  of 
the  horses  of  the  country,  with  Coronado,  clad 
from  head  to  foot  in  a  glittering  coat  of  mail,  at 
their  head.  Other  cavaliers,  too,  wore  armor,  and 
all  had  their  heads  protected  with  iron  helmets 
or  vizored  head-pieces  of  bullhide.  Each  carried 
a  lance  in  his  right  hand,  whiL^  a  sword  clattered 
at  his  belt.  To  add  a  finishing  note  to  the  mag- 
nificence of  these  young  gallants,  bright-colored 
blankets  hung  gorgeously  from  shoulder  to  ground. 

The  cavalry  was  only  the  first  battalion,  and 
back  of  them  walked  footmen  with  crossbow  or 
arquebus,  or  with  sword  and  shield,  and  still  be- 
hind them  came  the  light  artillery  with  wicked- 
looking  field  pieces  strapped  to  the  backs  of  stout 
mules. 

The  final  division  of  all  was  composed  of  ser- 


THE  COMING  OF  THE  SPANIARDS         45 

vants  and  slaves  leading  extra  horses  and  pack 
animals  loaded  with  the  belongings  of  the  elegant 
young  horsemen,  and  driving  before  them  herds 
of  oxen,  cows  and  sheep.  No  wonder  the  people 
cheered  and  the  viceroy  was  congratulated  upon 
the  country'  of  gold  that  would  be  added  to  his 
domain. 

The  distance  to  Culiacan,  their  first  objective, 
was  eighty  leagues,  but  so  impeded  were  the  move- 
ments of  the  army  by  the  herds  and  pack  animals 
that  they  did  not  arrive  at  their  destination  until 
March  28th. 

The  November  before,  Melchior  Diaz,  with  a 
small  escort,  had  been  sent  north  on  a  reconnais- 
sance to  verify,  if  possible,  de  Niza's  report.  He 
had  gone  forward  as  far  as  the  Gila  River  country, 
and  upon  his  return  had  met  Coronado  before  the 
captain  general  had  arrived  at  Culiacan. 

His  reports  verified  many  of  the  details  Fray 
Marcos  had  given  of  the  early  part  of  his  journey, 
and  as  he  had  not  penetrated  far  enough  into  the 
country  to  prick  the  Cibola  bubble,  Coronado  com- 
pleted his  energetic  plans  for  continuing  his  enter- 
prise. 

At  Culiacan,  influenced  doubtless  by  what  Diaz 
had  said  regarding  the  difficulties  of  traveling 
through  the  land  to  the  north,  Coronado  now  di- 
vided his  forces.  The  first  section  was  to  consist 
of  seventy-five  or  eighty  cavaliers,  thirtA'^  foot  sol- 
diers and  four  priests,  one  of  which  would  be  de 
Niza.  The  second  division  would  include  the  pack 
animals  and  the  herds. 

Two  weeks  were  consumed  in  reorganizing  the 


46  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

forces,  and  at  the  end  of  that  time  Coronado  ad- 
vanced with  the  lighter  battalion,  leaving  the 
others  to  follow  more  leisurely. 

To  further  insure  the  success  of  the  great  enter- 
prise, the  viceroy  meanwhile  was  outfitting  two 
supply  ships  which  ultimately  sailed  from  Nativi- 
dad  on  May  9th  under  the  command  of  Hernando 
de  Alarcon.  These  ships  were  joined  by  a  third, 
and  with  great  difliculties  sailed  up  the  Gulf  of 
California,  which  had  already  been  explored  by 
Ulloa.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado,  Alarcon  left 
the  ships  and  with  two  small  boats  made  two  dif- 
ferent trips  up  the  river  in  search  of  some  tidings 
from  Coronado.  On  the  second  trip  he  went  a 
considerable  distance  above  the  mouth  of  the  Gila 
River  where  he  erected  a  great  cross  and  buried 
letters  for  Coronado,  with  a  notice  on  a  conspicu- 
ous tree  telling  where  they  could  be  found.  How- 
ever, they  heard  nothing  of  the  expedition,  and 
sailed  for  home. 

In  the  meanwhile  Coronado  and  his  men,  in 
spite  of  rough  going,  advanced  along  a  route  not 
greatly  different  from  that  taken  by  Fray  Marcos, 
and  on  July  7th  finally  came  in  sight  of  Hawaikuh. 

Alas  for  the  golden  stories  of  the  friar!  These 
soldiers  of  fortune,  in  their  present  state  of  mind, 
had  no  rosy  spectacles  of  romance  through  which 
to  view  the  Indian  village  that  lay  before  them. 
Castanada  said,  "It  looked  as  though  it  had  been 
all  crumpled  up  together." 

When  they  saw  the  advancing  company  of 
Spaniards  a  number  of  the  Indians  came  out  of 


THE  COMING  OF  THE  SPANIARDS         47 

their  houses  to  meet  them.  Coronado  sent  for- 
ward part  of  his  cavalry  and  two  of  the  priests  to 
parley  with  them,  but  the  Indians  greeted  their 
visitors  with  a  volley  of  arrows.  At  this  the  Span- 
iards raised  their  battle  cry  of  "Santiago,"  and 
charged,  and  the  Indians,  dismayed  at  the  steel 
^ords  and  the  hoofs  of  the  horses,  fled  back  to 
their  walls.  The  invaders  then  advanced  in  force 
up  a  steep  pathway  leading  to  the  village,  which 
was  perched  upon  the  mesa.  As  the  white  men 
came  up,  the  Indians  stood  on  the  terraces  of  their 
pyramidal  houses  and  hurled  stones  and  shot 
arrows  at  them. 

On  came  the  Spaniards,  with  Coronado  at  their 
head.  His  shining  armor  made  a  conspicuous  tar- 
get for  the  missiles  of  the  Indians,  and  a  few 
minutes  later  he  was  felled  to  the  earth.  His  fol- 
lowers quickly  rallied  to  his  aid,  and  soon  took  the 
place  by  storm,  with  none  of  their  men  killed  and 
but  few  injured. 

They  immediately  possessed  themselves  of  the 
town,  searching  vainly  for  jewels  and  precious 
metals.  But  even  if  there  proved  to  be  no  stew 
pots  of  gold,  no  frying  pans  of  silver  or  pieces  of 
turquoise  set  in  the  walls,  there  was  plenty  of  corn 
and  a  place  to  rest,  which  after  all  was  what  they 
most  needed. 

Had  they  not  been  expecting  so  much,  both  the 
people  and  the  town  ought  to  have  been  full  of 
interest  for  the  soldiers.  The  Indians,  culturally, 
were  far  ahead  of  any  others  they  had  seen  since 
leaving  Mexico.    Their  houses  were  built  of  stone 


c 


48  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

and  the  people  themselves  were  clothed  in  beau- 
tifully dressed  skins  and  cotton  cloth.  Besides 
corn,  they  raised  on  their  primitive  farms  squash 
and  beans. 

Coronado  remained  at  Cibola,  making  it  his 
headquarters  for  some  considerable  time.  Shortly 
after  his  arrival  he  sent  Don  Pedro  de  Tovar,  with 
an  escort  of  cavalry,  on  into  the  Hopi  country,  of 
which  he  had  heard  much  from  the  Cibolans. 

When  Tovar  arrived  at  one  of  the  principal 
Hopi  towns,  the  inhabitants  refused  to  allow  him 
to  enter,  when  Friar  Juan  de  Padilla  urged  the 
Spaniards  to  attack.  One  charge  with  the  horses 
and  guns  thoroughly  cowed  the  Hopis,  who  there- 
upon sued  for  peace,  and  loaded  their  conquerors 
w^th  pine  nuts,  turkeys  and  other  food. 

*  When  the  expedition  returned  to  Cibola,  Coro- 
nado took  a  number  of  semi-precious  stones  they 
had  collected,  and  with  a  painted  deer  skin,  made 
up  a  package  for  the  viceroy,  which  he  dispatched, 
together  with  a  letter,  by  Juan  de  Gallego.  With 
Gallego  went  Fray  Marcos,  now  decidedly  unpopu- 
lar as  well  as  unhappy  in  the  camp.  Melchior 
Diaz,  who  was  to  send  forward  the  second  divi- 
sion of  the  army,  also  accompanied  them. 

After  an  uneventful  journey  the  three  returning 
travelers  found  the  army  in  a  comfortable  camp 
on  the  Sonora  River,  reaching  there  about  the 
middle  of  September. 

Soon  the  army  went  north,  when  Diaz,  who  had 
been  left  in  command  of  the  camp,  which  was  to 
be  made  permanent,  decided  to  try  to  find  the  sup- 
ply fleet  and  Alarcon. 


THE  COMING  OF  THE  SPANIARDS         49 

With  twenty-five  men  he  traveled  northwest 
until  he  reached  the  Colorado  River,  but  though 
he  found  the  letters  Alarcon  had  left,  the  fleet  had 
already  departed.  The  expedition  came  to  an  ab- 
rupt end  when,  upon  an  inauspicious  day,  Diaz 
was  accidentally  transfixed  with  a  lance  and  died. 
His  followers  immediately  returned  to  the  military 
camp  on  the  Sonora  River. 

When  Tovar  had  returned  from  the  Hopi  coun- 
try he  told  Coronado  that  the  natives  had  told  him 
of  a  great  river  that  lay  to  the  northwest,  whose 
banks  were  peopled  with  a  race  of  giants.  The 
captain  general  thereupon  sent  Don  Garcia  Lopez 
de  Cardenas  and  twelve  cavaliers  to  explore  it. 

At  the  Hopi  villages  Cardenas  found  guides, 
and  from  thence  proceeded  over  the  plateau  coun- 
try, which  they  found  cold  in  spite  of  the  summer 
season,  and  after  several  days  were  rewarded  by 
seeing  the  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Colorado. 

Coming  unexpectedly  upon  this  tremendous 
marvel  of  Nature,  it  is  no  wonder  that  they  were 
filled  with  amazement  at  its  magnitude  and  majes- 
tic beauty.  For  several  days  they  explored  the 
rim,  trying  vainly  to  find  a  trail  leading  to  the 
river,  which  to  them  looked  like  a  silver  thread, 
and  which  the  Indians  insisted  was  half  a  league 
wide.  Three  of  the  most  active  of  the  men  did 
make  one  effort  to  climb  down  the  sides,  but  hours 
after  returned  to  say  that  they  had  attempted  the 
impossible,  for  "rocks  which  from  the  tops  had 
appeared  to  be  no  taller  than  a  man,  were  found 
upon  reaching  them  to  be  taller  than  the  tower  of 
the  cathedral  at  Seville." 

4 


50  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

The  discovery  of  the  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Colo- 
rado practically  ended  the  explorations  of 
Coronado  in  Arizona. 

After  the  return  of  Cardenas,  the  captain  gen- 
eral marched  eastward  into  New  Mexico,  where 
the  record  of  his  explorations  was  sadly  marred 
by  the  bad  faith  and  cruelty  shown  by  the  Span- 
iards to  the  Indians. 

Ever  lured  on  by  the  will-of-the-wisp  stories  of 
gold  told  them  by  the  Indians,  who  soon  discov- 
ered the  white  man's  madness  for  the  yellow  metal, 
they  journeyed  into  Texas,  Oklahoma  and  even 
Kansas,  where  their  farthermost  point  seems  to 
have  been  reached  somewhere  beyond  the  Arkan- 
sas River. 

Finally,  following  many  disasters,  two  years 
from  the  time  they  had  started  so  auspiciously 
from  Compostella,  Coronado  led  his  army  back  to 
Mexico.  With  the  ranks  of  his  army  depleted  by 
death,  his  men  dressed  in  tattered  skins  of  animals, 
worn  by  hardships  and  privations,  their  leader 
entered  the  capital  of  New  Spain,  "very  sad  and 
very  weary,  completely  worn  out  and  shame- 
faced," feeling  that  he  was  held  responsible  not 
only  for  their  failure  to  find  gold,  but  also  for  the 
fate  of  those  who  had  died  on  the  inhospitable 
deserts  of  the  north.  Nevertheless,  though  the 
viceroy  received  him  with  coldness,  and  though 
his  name  is  tarnished  with  the  treatment  his  men 
showed  the  natives,  yet  by  reason  of  his  splendid 
courage  and  dogged  persistence  in  continuing  his 
explorations  in  the  face  of  constant  perils,  Coro- 


THE  COMING  OF  THE  SPANIARDS         51 

nado  and  such  captains  as  Melchior  Diaz  have 
won  for  themselves  enduring  and  justly  earned 
f^me. 

The  inability  of  Coronado  to  find  any  trace  of 
gold  in  the  countrj^  to  the  north  effectively  ended 
all  efforts  at  exploration  in  that  direction  until  in 
1582  (forty  years  after  Coronado's  return),  when 
Antonio  de  Espejo  led  a  small  expedition  into  New 
Mexico  with  the  double  purpose  of  looking  for  two 
missing  Franciscans  and  searching  for  precious 
minerals.  They  made  one  trip  into  what  is  now 
Arizona,  Espejo  with  nine  followers  going  west  to 
the  Hopi  villages  and  afterwards  prospecting  for 
metals  in  a  section  that  probably  included  Yavapai 
County. 

In  1598  Don  Juan  de  Onate  organized  a  large 
expedition,  consisting  of  400  men,  130  of  which 
were  accompanied  by  their  families,  10  Franciscan 
friars,  83  wagons  and  7,000  head  of  cattle,  with  a 
view  of  permanently  colonizing  the  fertile  country 
along  the  upper  Rio  Grande.  Like  Espejo,  he 
made  one  exploring  trip  into  Arizona,  where,  after 
visiting  the  Hopi  and  other  Indian  villages,  he  did 
some  fruitless  searching  for  minerals.  At  a  later 
time  Onate  went  as  far  west  as  the  Colorado  River 
down  which  he  journeyed  to  its  mouth. 

The  battles  with  the  Indians  of  this  really  re- 
markable commander,  his  troubles  with  members 
of  his  army,  his  success  in  establishing  colonies, 
belong  to  the  annals  of  New  Mexico  rather  than  to 
those  of  Arizona,  still  it  should  be  mentioned  that 
Onate's  expedition  marked  the  beginning  of  the 


52  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

settlement  of  New  Mexico  by  the  Spaniards,  and 
with  the  exception  of  a  hurief  period  following  the 
revolt  of  the  natives  in  IGmX,  its  occupation  by  the 
white  race  was  thereafter^ontinuous. 


SPANLSH  MISSIONS   IN  ARIZONA  AND  NORTHERN  SONORA 


Chapter  III 
SPANISH  MISSION  DAYS 

SPANISH  mission  activities  among  the  Indians 
of  Arizona  began  early  in  the  seventeenth 
century  when  friars  from  the  colonies  on 
the  Rio  Grande  first  visited  and  later  took  resi- 
dence among  the  Hopis  in  the  pueblos  east  of  the 
Painted  Desert.  However,  at  the  time  of  the  New 
Mexican  Revolt  in  1680,  four  Franciscans,  who 
were  ministering  in  five  of  the  towns  of  Tusayan, 
were  killed  by  their  parishioners  and  thereafter 
all  through  the  Spanish  rule  the  Hopis  refused  to 
have  anything  to  do  with  the  white  man's  religion. 
Among  the  Indians  to  the  south  the  Spaniards 
were  much  more  successful.  The  work  here  began 
with  the  arrival  of  the  Jesuits  in  1690.  The  padres 
of  this  order  continued  in  cIiarge"of~the  field  for 
seventy-seven  years,  when,  in  1767,  they  were  suc- 
ceeded by  the  Franciscans,  who  for  sixty  years 
more,  like  their  predecessors,  labored  diligently 
and  unselfishly  for  the  salvation  of  their  charges, 
until,  in  1827,  Mexico  becoming  independent  of 
Spain,  the  Franciscans  were  banished  from  the 
country. 

The  southern  missionary  field  covered  all  of 
what  was  then  known  as  Pimeria  Alta,  which, 
roughly,  was  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Gila 

53 


54  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

and  on  the  east  by  the  San  Pedro.  On  the  south 
it  ran  well  into  Sonora,  and  on  the  west  extended 
to  the  Rio  Colorado  and  the  Gulf  of  California. 
Although  both  Jesuits  and  Franciscans  in  this  dis- 
trict tried  to  reach  the  northern  tribes,  their  efforts 
were  barren  of  success.  Even  in  Pimeria  Alta 
north  of  the  present  Mexican  line  but  two  missions 
of  any  permanency  were  established  by  the  Jesuits 
and  but  two  more  were  added  by  the  Franciscans. 

The  first  and  greatest  of  the  Jesuit  missionaries 
was  Father  Eucebio  Kino.  He  was  a  native  of 
Trent  in  the  Austrian  Tyrol,  and  believing  that  he 
owed  his  recovery  from  a  serious  illness  to  the 
intercession  of  St.  Francis  Xavier,  resigned  a  pro- 
fessorship at  the  College  of  Ingolstadt  in  Bavaria 
to  devote  his  life  to  the  salvation  of  the  Indians 
in  the  New  World. 

In  February,  1687,  we  find  him  near  the  present 
town  of  Ures  in  Sonora,  where  he  founded  his  first 
mission,  Nuestra  Senora  de  los  Dolores,  which 
place  he  made  his  headquarters  up  to  the  time  of 
his  death,  and  from  which  he  made  his  many  mis- 
sionary journeys  to  Arizona. 

In  December,  1690,  Father  Juan  Maria  de  Sal- 
vatierra,  superior  and  visitador,  came  to  Dolores, 
and  as  he  and  Father  Kino  were  inspecting  the 
different  missions  and  visitas  which  the  latter  had 
established  in  the  district,  they  were  met  at  Tucu- 
babai  on  the  Rio  Altar  by  a  delegation  of  Sobai- 
puris  Indians.  These  natives  had  journeyed  south- 
ward from  about  the  locality  of  San  Xavier  to  ask 
if  missionaries  could  not  be  sent  to  their  own 
country. 


SPANISH  MISSION  DAYS  55 

I 

Gladly  acceding  to  their  request,  shortly  after- 
wards the  two  Jesuits  journeyed  northward,  cross- 
ing the  border  at  or  near  the  Santa  Cruz  River, 
being  the  first  white  men  to  enter  what  is  now 
Arizona  from  the  south  since  Coronado's  visit 
one  hundred  and  fifty  years  before. 

Salvatierra  immediately  returned  to  Mexico, 
leaving  Kino,  who  remained  a  little  while  longer, 
investigating  the  possibilities  of  the  country  as  a 
missionary  field. 

Although  he  had  little  encouragement  from  the 
superiors  of  his  order.  Father  Kino  took  a  great 
interest  in  the  Papagos,  Pimas  and  other  friendly 
tribes  of  Indians  living  in  that  part  of  Pimeria 
Alta,  now  known  as  Arizona,  and  during  the  re- 
maining sixteen  years  of  his  administration  of 
missionary  affairs  from  Dolores,  made  no  less  than 
fourteen  journeys  through  different  parts  of  that 
country. 

At  this  time  the  most  northerly  of  the  precidios 
or  garrisons  of  the  Spaniards  was  at  Fronteras, 
situated  near  the  San  Pedro  River,  in  northern 
Sonora.  From  this  presidio  there  operated  a  fly- 
ing squadron  whose  purpose  it  was  to  defend  the 
missions  and  missionaries  from  hostile  Indians, 
particularly  the  Apaches,  who  about  a  half  century 
before  first  appeared  in  Arizona,  coming  from  the 
north,  and  from  the  time  of  their  arrival  gave 
evidences  of  the  predator}^  and  murderous  charac- 
teristics which  later  turned  Arizona  into  a  verita- 
ble charnel  house. 

However,  in  spite  of  manifold  dangers,  some- 


56  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

times  guarded  by  an  escort  of  soldiers,  sometimes 
only  accompanied  by  a  companion  friar  or  Indian 
guides,  and  often  traveling  alone.  Father  Kino  jour- 
neyed up  and  down  the  Santa  Cruz,  the  San  Pedro 
and  Gila  rivers,  preaching  and  ministering  to 
Papagos,  Pimas,  Sobas,  Coco-Maricopas  and 
Yumas  who  lived  in  that  district.  The  good  father 
must  have  possessed  a  wonderful  personality  and 
adaptability  as  well  as  great  courage,  for  nearly 
everywhere  the  Indians  seem  to  have  received 
him  gladly,  listened  to  his  teachings  and  given  him 
their  children  to  be  baptized. 

Knowing  of  the  missions  farther  to  the  south, 
the  natives  were  anxious  to  have  like  communities 
established  in  their  own  country,  and  although 
Father  Kino's  greatest  desire  was  to  see  this  accom- 
plished, he  was  unable  to  get  the  support  to  carry 
out  the  plan.  Nevertheless,  at  many  of  the  villages 
the  natives  built  little  adobe  churches  where 
Father  Kino  and  his  few  associates  might  hold 
mass  on  their  all  too  infrequent  visits. 

The  padres,  besides  ministering  to  their  charges 
spiritually,  also  looked  after  their  temporal  well 
being.  These  people  were  semi-agricultural,  liv- 
ing in  villages  and  having  little  fields  of  maize, 
beans,  squash  and  cotton.  The  padres  gave  them 
seeds  of  new  varieties  of  grain  and  vegetables,  and 
even  helped  them  make  a  start  raising  horses, 
sheep  and  cattle.  The  success  thus  gained  may  be 
gathered  by  a  letter  written  by  Father  Kino  him- 
self: 

"The  greater  the  means,  the  greater  our  obliga- 


,  SPANISH  MISSION  DAYS  57 

tion  to  seek  the  salvation  of  so  many  souls  in  the 
very  fertile  lands  and  valleys  of  these  new  con- 
quests and  conversions.  There  are  already  rich 
and  abundant  fields,  plantings  and  crops  of  wheat, 
maize,  frijoles,  chickpeas,  beans,  lentils  ...  in 
them  vineyards,  .  .  .  reed  brakes  of  sweet 
cane  for  syrup  and  panoche.  .  .  .  There  are 
many  fruit  trees,  as  figs,  quinces,  oranges,  .  .  . 
with  all  sorts  of  garden  stuff,  .  .  .  garlic,  let- 
tuce,    .    .    .     Castilian  roses,  white  lilies." 

Mining  in  Arizona,  too,  had  its  first  slight  begin- 
ning in  early  Jesuit  times,  for  our  diligent  and 
practical  father  mentions  more  than  once  veins 
of  minerals  which  he  had  seen  in  various  parts  of 
the  country. 

In  1694,  acting  on  information  he  received  from 
the  Indians,  our  Padre  Kino  visited  the  since 
famous  pre-historic  ruins  on  the  Gila,  now  known 
as  the  Casa  Grande,  being  doubtless  the  first  white 
man  to  see  them.  It  is  also  interesting  to  note  that, 
although  the  present  church  building  at  the  mis- 
sion of  San  Xavier  del  Bac  was  not  commenced 
until  many  years  afterwards,  it  is  recorded  that 
in  1701  Father  Kino  laid  the  foundation  for  a  large 
church  at  that  place. 

In  1710,  at  the  age  of  seventy,  while  still  actively 
engaged  in  this  work,  this  intrepid  old  soldier  of 
the  cross  passed  to  his  reward.  It  is  told  that  dur- 
ing his  mission  work  he  baptized  no  less  than 
forty-eight  thousand  Indians.  Of  him  Calvijero 
says:  "In  all  of  his  journeys  he  carried  no  other 
food  than  roasted  corn;  he  never  omitted  to  cele- 


58  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

brate  Holy  Mass  and  never  slept  on  a  mattress. 
As  he  wandered  about  he  prayed  incessantly  or 
sang  hymns  or  songs.  He  died  as  saintly  as  he 
lived." 

At  the  time  of  Father  Kino's  death  the  only 
permanent  mission  existing  in  what  is  now  Ari- 
zona was  at  Guevavi,  and  what  with  the  hostility 
of  the  Apaches  and  the  weakness  of  the  garrisons, 
the  padres  were  unable  to  do  missionary  work 
north  of  that  place  for  the  next  twenty  years. 
Indeed,  it  is  quite  likely  that  no  Spaniards  what- 
ever entered  the  district  unless  it  was  an  occa- 
sional expedition  of  the  soldiers  from  Fronteras. 
By  1732,  however,  conditions  had  so  changed  that 
the  Jesuits  were  able  to  make  San  Xavier  del  Bac 
a  permanent  mission,  placing  Father  Felipe  Seges- 
ser  in  charge,  while  Juan  Bautista  Grasshoff  er  was 
made  the  resident  priest  at  Guevavi.  From  that 
time  on  there  were  gathered  at  these  two  places 
Indian  neophytes  who  received  spiritual  instruc- 
tion from  the  padres  and  labored  under  their 
direction. 

As  we  know,  the  Spaniards  were  ever  in  search 
of  the  precious  metals.  An  attempt,  at  least,  at 
mining  in  Pimeria  Alta  was  made  early  in  1726, 
and  ten  3'ears  later,  at  Arizonac,  southwest  of  Gue- 
vavi and  just  south  of  the  Arizona  line,  the  famous 
Planchas  de  Plata  were  discovered.  Here  great 
plates  or  balls  of  native  silver  were  found;  one 
immense  lump,  it  is  said,  weighed  nearly  three 
thousand  pounds.  In  fact,  the  mine  was  so  rich 
that  when  the  fame  of  the  strike  reached  Spain 
the  king  promptly  appropriated  it  for  himself. 


SPANISH  MISSION  DAYS  59 


In  the  meantime  affairs  at  the  missions,  both 
in  Arizona  and  Sonora,  were  going  in  a  way  not  at 
all  idealistic.  The  Pima  and  Papago  Indians,  from 
which  tribes  were  gathered  most  of  the  neophytes, 
although  comparatively  tractable  and  peace-lov- 
ing, were  wholly  unused  to  discipline  and  the 
white  man's  standard  of  labor.  The  zealous  fathers 
seemed  to  have  pushed  them  rather  far,  for  on 
November  21,  1751,  through  the  entire  district  of 
Pimeria  Alta,  the  Pimas  and  Papagos  joined  the 
Ceres  in  a  bloody  revolt.  The  two  priests  in  charge 
of  San  Xavier  and  Guevavi  fled  to  Suamca  in 
Sonora,  which  was  protected  by  a  nearby  presidio. 
Two  other  of  the  padres  were  killed  at  their  mis- 
sions in  Sonora,  as  were  about  a  hundred  other 
Spaniards.  Smelting  furnaces  that  had  been 
erected  were  destroyed  by  the  Indians,  and  mine 
shafts  filled  in  wherever  found. 

By  some  means,  within  the  next  two  years, 
priests  and  parishioners  were  reconciled;  possibly 
the  presidio,  or  garrison,  which  was  established  at 
Tubac  in  the  Santa  Cruz  Valley,  1752,  may  have 
been  a  potent  influence  to  that  end.  In  any  event 
the  friars  returned  to  Guevavi  and  San  Xavier, 
and  in  1754  established  an  important  visita  at 
Tumacacori,  conveniently  near  the  soldiers  of  the 
new  garrison. 

We  now  read  of  Spanish  colonists  beginning 
to  come  up  from  the  south,  and  see  mentioned  the 
name  of  Tucson,  which  is  spoken  of  as  an  Indian 
village  the  fathers  visited  from  San  Xavier. 

The  friars  seemed  to  have  attained  some  suc- 
cess in  regaining  the  confidence  of  their  charges 


60  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

when  suddenly,  in  1767,  King  Charles  III  expelled 
all  of  the  Jesuits  from  his  kingdom.  Several  rea- 
sons are  given  for  this  act:  that  it  was  the  influ- 
ence of  the  Freemasons  in  the  Spanish  court;  that 
the  Pima  uprising  showed  incompetency  on  the 
part  of  the  fathers  in  charge;  that  the  enemies  of 
the  order  had  showed  the  king  a  forged  letter 
purporting  to  be  from  the  Jesuit  superior  general 
and  containing  allegations  that  seriously  affected 
the  monarch's  title  to  the  crown.  In  any  event  a 
devoted  and  zealous  body  of  earnest  workers  who, 
whatever  mistakes  they  may  have  made,  labored 
unselfishly  in  the  face  of  grave  dangers,  were 
abruptly  discharged  with  no  thanks  from  the  coun- 
try whose  frontier  they  had  tried  so  hard  to  civil- 
ize. The  church  records  show  that  altogether 
there  were  nineteen  of  the  order  who  worked  in 
this  field. 

Immediately  upon  their  removal  the  mission 
property  was  turned  over  to  the  royal  comisario, 
and  the  Marquis  de  Croix,  then  viceroy  of  Mexico, 
sent  an  urgent  appeal  to  the  Franciscan  college  at 
Queretero,  Mexico,  asking  for  at  least  twelve 
priests  of  that  order. 

In  response  to  this  request  fourteen  Francis- 
cans were  sent  to  Sonora  and  there  assigned  to  the 
different  missions  throughout  the  district.  The 
church  property  was  formally  turned  over  to  the 
order,  and  each  friar  w^as  allowed  by  the  crown 
the  meager  stipend  of  $300  a  year  towards  defray- 
ing the  expenses  of  his  work. 

A  year  had  elapsed  since  the  Jesuits  had  gone. 


SPANISH  MISSION  DAYS  61 

and  the  two  missions  in  Arizona,  Guevavi  and 
San  Xavier,  were  in  a  deplorable  condition.  Not 
only  had  the  property  been  sadly  neglected  by  the 
civil  custodians,  but  also  the  year  of  freedom  from 
restraint  enjoyed  by  the  neophytes  made  the  dis- 
cipline imposed  upon  them  seem  verj^  irksome. 
Gradually,  however,  some  of  the  Indians  returned ; 
some,  who  were  wholly  under  the  care  of  the 
padres,  were  furnished  food  and  clothing  for  them- 
selves and  families;  others  simply  worked  for  pay 
by  the  day. 

Of  all  of  the  Franciscans  in  Pimeria  by  far  the 
most  conspicuous  figure  was  Father  Francisco 
Garces,  who  was  assigned  to  San  Xavier  with  the 
Indian  village  of  Tucson  as  a  visita.  He  was  a 
younger  man  on  entering  his  work  than  Father 
Kino,  but  no  one  could  have  been  more  zealous 
in  his  labors,  more  unmindful  of  the  dangers  of  a 
hostile  frontier,  or  more  undaunted  by  the  poverty 
of  the  missions.  His  faith  and  courage  lifted  him 
to  a  plane  where  failure  could  not  reach  him. 

So  great  were  his  zeal  and  piety  that  it  was  felt 
even  by  the  Indians,  who  venerated  him  as  an 
oracle  and  a  holy  man.  However,  he  could  be  as 
stern  with  those  who  were  hostile  to  his  teachings 
as  he  was  patient  and  kindly  to  those  who  listened. 

As  an  object  lesson,  he  had  a  serv^ant  carry 
before  him  a  large  banner,  which  on  one  side 
portrayed  the  likeness  of  the  Virgin  Mar^^  and  on 
the  other  a  picture  of  a  lost  soul,  writhing  in  the 
flames  of  hell.  If,  on  visiting  a  new  community, 
the  natives  were  hospitable,  he  turned  to  them  the 


62  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

picture  of  the  mother  of  Jesus;  if  unfriendly,  the 
lost  soul  was  exhibited  as  a  warning  of  their  own 
inevitable  fate. 

The  first  missionary  journey  of  Father  Garces 
was  made  to  the  Gila  country  within  a  few  months 
of  his  arrival  at  San  Xavier.  The  young  padre 
kept  a  very  complete  diary,  and  what  he  tells  of 
the  various  tribes  is  full  of  interest.  The  Pimas 
and  Coco-Maricopas  lived  in  much  the  same  coun- 
try they  do  now,  and  Father  Garces  was  especially 
impressed  with  the  amount  of  cotton  they  grew, 
which  they  wove  into  blankets  for  both  their  men 
and  women.  The  men  also  wore  a  cotton  breech- 
cloth,  while  the  women  clad  themselves  in  a  short 
skirt  made  of  the  same  material. 

While  the  Pimas,  Papagos  and  Coco-Maricopas 
treated  the  priests  with  uniform  kindness,  the 
Apaches  continued  to  be  a  perpetual  menace,  raid- 
ing the  missions  whenever  the  opportunity  offered 
and-  ready  at  all  times  for  both  thievery  and 
murder. 

Early  in  his  ministry  Father  Garces  became 
ill,  and  Fray  Gil,  who  was  in  charge  of  Guevavi, 
came  to  assist  him.  In  Gil's  absence,  the  Apaches 
sacked  Guevavi,  damaged  the  mission  building 
and  killed  all  but  two  of  the  little  band  of  soldiers 
that  was  guarding  it. 

Later  the  same  year  the  Apaches  attacked  San 
Xavier,  destroying  the  mission  buildings,  but  under 
Garces'  direction  it  was  quickly  repaired. 

In  spite  of  continuous  obstacles  and  dangers, 
the  mission  showed  steady  improvement.     In  1772 


SPANISH  MISSION  DAYS  63 

there  was  at  San  Xavier  a  fairly  capacious  adobe 
church  building  with,  including  men,  women  and 
children,  two  hundred  parishioners.  They  had  cul- 
tivated fields  and  cared  for  considerable  live  stock. 
At  the  visita  of  San  Jose  del  Tucson  there  were 
about  two  hundred  people,  but  no  place  of  wor- 
ship, so  some  time  during  the  year  the  zealous 
Fray  Francisco  Garces  built  at  the  foot  of  a  hill, 
called  "El  Cerro  del  Tucson,"  a  stone  church,  a 
mission  house  with  a  wall  of  adobe  around  it,  as 
a  protection  against  the  Apaches.  The  pueblo 
stood  about  half  a  mile  west  of  the  present  city  of 
Tucson. 

At  this  time  Guevavi  had  eighty-six  people,  the 
Indians  there  doing  a  little  farming.  Tumacacori 
had  a  population  of  ninety-three,  but  though  there 
were  both  church  and  priest  house,  there  was  no 
minister  in  charge.  There  was  also  a  small  unfin- 
ished church  at  San  Ignacio,  just  east  of  Guevavi. 
Calabasas,  in  the  same  district,  was  a  visita  with 
sixty-four  people  but  no  church.  Add  to  this  a 
little  military  post  at  Tubac,  with  less  than  fifty 
soldiers,  and  we  have  practically  all  of  the  mission 
communities  of  Arizona. 

As  early  as  Father  Kino's  time  it  had  been  the 
ambition  of  both  the  padre  and  the  military  au- 
thorities to  establish  an  overland  route  between 
the  missions  of  Pimeria  Alta  and  those  of  Cali- 
fornia. Finally,  to  this  end,  in  1774,  Captain  Juan 
Bautista  de  Anza,  comandante  of  the  presidio  at 
Tubac,  undertook  the  establishment  of  a  trail.  On 
January  8th  he  left  Tubac  with  thirty-four  soldiers, 


64  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

going  by  the  way  of  Gaborca  on  the  River  Altar, 
then  northwest  to  the  junction  of  the  Gila  and 
Colorado,  and  then,  after  a  difficult  march  across 
the  desert,  on  to  San  Gabriel,  near  Los  Angeles. 
On  this  expedition  the  church  was  represented  by 
Padres  Garces  and  Juan  Diaz,  both  of  whom  were 
interested  in  the  Yuma  and  other  Indian  tribes  liv- 
ing on  the  Colorado,  and  among  whom  there  had 
been  much  talk  of  estabUshing  a  mission. 

In  September,  1775,  De  Anza  led  a  second  party 
into  California,  starting  from  Horcasitas,  and  going 
through  San  Xavier  down  the  Gila.  This  expedi- 
tion journeyed  as  far  as  the  Golden  Gate  in  Cali- 
fornia, where  they  founded  a  settlement,  which  in 
time  became  San  Francisco. 

Early  in  the  year  of  1776,  while  Adams,  Han- 
cock and  their  associates  on  the  Atlantic  Coast 
were  occupied  with  events  leading  up  to  a  famous 
Declaration  of  Independence  concerning  one  King 
George,  Father  Garces,  with  his  banner  borne 
before  him,  thinking  of  very  different  matters  in- 
deed, was  journeying  northward  up  the  west  bank 
of  the  Colorado  River  into  unknown  country,  hop- 
ing to  reach  the  Hopis,  to  whom  he  was  especially 
anxious  to  preach  the  gospel.  He  encountered  the 
Mohave  and  Chemehuevi  Indians,  probably  near 
the  present  town  of  Parker,  who  received  him  cor- 
dially. After  making  a  casual  side  trip  of  a  hun- 
dred miles  or  so  to  south  central  California,  he 
returned  to  Arizona  and  journeyed  trails  hereto- 
fore untrodden  by  white  men  into  central  Arizona. 
Somewhere   near   Prescott   he   met   the  Yavapai 


SPANISH  MISSION  DAYS  65 

tribe,  and  induced  five  of  them  to  act  as  his  guides 
to  Hopi  land. 

En  route  to  the  pueblos  they  visited  the  Havasu 
Indians,  who  lived  then  as  they  do  now,  down  in 
the  depths  of  the  picturesque  and  beautiful  Cata- 
ract Canyon,  and  marveled  much  over  the  charm 
of  the  spot. 

When  he  reached  Oraibe,  the  cliff  city  of  the 
Hopis,  he  found  the  natives  still  most  antagonistic 
to  the  religion  of  the  Spaniards.  While  offering 
the  sorely  disappointed  Father  Garces  no  violence, 
they  would  neither  receive  the  simple  gifts  he  had 
brought  them,  nor  allow  him  to  remain.  They  had 
no  objection  to  the  friar  as  a  man,  and  permitted 
him  to  take  his  burros  to  the  sheep  corral  and 
wander  through  the  town,  which  he  did  with  much 
curiosity,  recording  what  he  did  and  saw  most 
minutely  in  his  diary. 

The  people  gave  every  evidence  not  only  of 
superior  intelligence,  but  of  considerable  material 
prosperity.  The  houses,  he  said,  were  of  more 
than  one  story  in  height,  with  doors  closed  by  bolts 
and  keys  of  wood. 

They  had  sheep,  which,  of  course,  came  from 
the  Spanish  settlements  on  the  Rio  Grande,  and 
Father  Garces  notes  with  interest  that  the  ewes 
were  larger  than  those  of  Sonora.  Also,  he  said, 
they  raised  chickens,  had  gardens  in  which  grew 
all  of  the  common  vegetables,  and  besides  that, 
little  orchards  of  peach  trees.  Their  clothing  was 
both  picturesque  and  well  made,  the  women  wear- 
ing woolen  smocks  made  of  blanketing,  sleeveless 


66  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

and  reaching  to  the  heels.  Over  this  was  worn  a 
second  smock  of  black  or  white  with  a  girdle  of 
various  colors.  Some  of  the  men  wore  leathern 
jackets  fitted  with  sleeves,  and  they  completed 
their  apparel  with  trousers  and  moccasins. 

That  night,  evidently  believing  that  the  friar's 
presence  would  make  "bad  medicine,"  the  Pueb- 
lans  would  not  allow  Father  Garces  to  enter  their 
houses,  so,  forced  to  sleep  in  the  street,  he  writes 
that  his  rest  was  disturbed  by  the  harangues  of 
different  local  orators  and  the  playing  of  a  flute. 

After  remaining  at  the  Hopi  villages  for  three 
days,  he  was  told  definitely  that  it  was  time  for 
him  to  depart.  With  crucifix  raised  before  him, 
he  made  a  final  appeal,  but  the  Indians  would 
have  nothing  of  his  teaching,  and  gently  but  firmly 
escorted  him  to  the  edge  of  the  town. 

Sadly  disheartened  by  his  failure,  he  returned 
to  the  Colorado  River,  journeying  southward 
through  the  land  of  the  Mojaves,  and  then  east- 
ward, again  visiting  the  Goco-Maricopas  and 
Pimas. 

He  reached  San  Xavier  September  17th,  after 
a  journey  of  over  twenty-five  hundred  miles,  in 
the  course  of  which  he  visited  nine  tribes  and  met 
some  twenty-five  thousand  Indians. 

Since  the  establishment  of  the  church  at  the 
"Pueblito  del  Tucson"  four  years  earlier,  this  set- 
tlement seems  to  have  steadily  grown  in  impor- 
tance. Spanish  settlers  came  there  and  the  same 
year  that  Father  Garces  made  his  long  journey  to 
the  Hopi  country  military  quarters  were  erected 


SPANISH  MISSION  DAYS  67 

there,  and  the  soldiers  moved  north  from  Tubac  to 
occupy  them.  About  this  time  the  settlement 
seems  to  have  taken  unto  itself  a  new  patron  saint, 
for  hereafter,  instead  of  being  known  as  San  Jose 
del  Tucson,  it  was  called  San  Agustin  del  Pueblito 
del  Tucson.  Fancy  a  Southern  Pacific  brakeman 
announcing  such  a  name  to  a  car  of  passengers! 

Naturally  the  settlers  at  Tubac  made  a  vigorous 
protest  against  the  abandonment  of  their  military 
post,  but  they  seem  to  have  received  scant  satis- 
faction from  the  authorities,  who  not  only  did  not 
return  the  soldiers,  but  insisted  that  certain  set- 
tlers who  wished  to  leave  for  Mexico  must  stay 
where  they  were. 

The  Franciscans  were  ever  desirous  of  reaching 
farther  into  the  frontier  with  their  missions,  and 
the  crown  administrators  appreciated  thoroughly 
that  no  other  pioneers  could,  at  so  little  cost  to  the 
State,  so  successfully  enlarge  their  country's  bor- 
ders. So  it  was  that  when  Padre  Garces  and 
accompanying  friars  had,  with  Captain  de  Anza, 
visited  the  rich  delta  country  of  the  Colorado 
where  the  Yuma  Indians  had  their  productive 
fields,  both  the  representatives  of  the  church  and 
the  military  had  been  impressed  with  the  thought 
that  this  would  make  an  ideal  spot  for  a  new 
religious  center. 

However,  both  Captain  de  Anza  and  Father 
Garces  were  of  the  opinion  that  it  would  be  dan- 
gerous to  establish  a  mission  unless  it  could  be 
strongly  guarded  by  soldiers,  for  while  the  Yumas 
were  agricultural,   they  were  far  more  warlike 


68  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

than  either  the  Pimas  or  Papagos,  and  the  upris- 
ing of  1751  had  not  been  forgotten.  The  powers 
higher  up  finally  gave  orders  for  the  establishment 
of  such  a  mission,  but  there  were  many  things  that 
made  for  delays,  and  it  was  not  until  early  in  1779 
that  Father  Garces  and  Father  Juan  Diaz  were 
given  orders  to  hold  themselves  in  readiness  to 
proceed  to  the  countrj^  of  the  Yumas  as  soon  as 
the  necessary  military  force  and  supplies  could  be 
obtained.  Then  came  more  waiting  when,  finally, 
an  army  of  twelve  privates  and  a  sergeant  were 
furnished  as  the  military  equipment  of  the  peril- 
ous undertaking  and  the  intrepid  dozen  and  one, 
together  with  the  two  priests,  made  the  journey 
to  the  Colorado. 

The  executive  head  of  the  Indians  at  that  time 
was  one  Chief  Palma,  a  dignitary  of  no  mean  sta- 
tion, for  he  had  not  onlj^  received  a  military  deco- 
ration from  Captain  de  Anza,  but  had  been  to  the 
City  of  Mexico  and  been  baptized  in  the  cathedral. 

The  loaves  and  fishes  of  the  religion  of  the 
Spaniards  had  been  very  attractive  to  this  Indian 
warrior.  Coincident  with  the  establishment  of  the 
proposed  mission,  Palma  had  been  promised  an 
unlimited  amount  of  smoking  tobacco,  which  he 
very  much  enjoyed;  and  a  fine  suit  of  clothes, 
entirely  superfluous,  considering  the  climate  of 
Yuma  and  the  sartorial  habits  of  his  tribe,  but 
adding  greatly  to  his  dignity  and  standing.  There- 
fore he  was  very  anxious  for  the  mission  to  be 
established. 

Naturally,  the  amount  of  gratuities  which  the 


SPANISH  MISSION  DAYS  69 

two  priests  were  able  to  bring  with  them  was  very 
small,  and  the  disgruntled  aboriginal  executive 
received  the  ecclesiastical  arrivals  with  tempered 
cordiality.  Nevertheless,  the  tact  of  Father  Garces 
seems  to  have  tided  things  over  pretty  well  until  a 
year  later,  when  twenty-one  soldiers,  twelve 
laborers  and  twenty  colonists  journeyed  over  the 
deserts  to  the  new  settlement,  each  bringing  with 
him  a  wife  and  a  family  of  children. 

To  make  their  welcome  at  the  hands  of  the 
expectant  savages  doubly  sure,  these  new  colonists 
calmly  took  possession  of  what  Indian  fields  they 
wanted,  and  asked  the  natives  the  old  question, 
"What  are  you  going  to  do  about  it?"  For  the 
time  being  it  seemed  nothing  was  done  about  it, 
and  a  pueblo  was  established  on  the  west  side  of 
the  river  at  the  mouth  of  the  Gila,  which  was 
called  Concepcion,  and  a  second  village  was  laid 
out  three  leagues  farther  south  and  christened  the 
unassuming  name  of  San  Pedro  y  San  Pablo  de 
Bicuner. 

For  nearly  two  years  the  colonies  maintained 
a  precarious  existence.  The  Yumas,  next  to  the 
Apaches,  were  considered  the  most  dangerous  In- 
dians of  the  Southwest;  add  to  that  fact  that  the 
soldiers  were  brutal  and  licentious  and  we  find  a 
condition  that  made  disaster  a  little  less  than 
inevitable. 

The  padres,  who  realized  fully  the  harvest  that 
all  this  was  leading  to,  did  all  they  could  to  restrain 
their  countrymen  and  placate  the  Indians,  but  the 
trouble  was  past  mending. 


70  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

The  proverbial  last  straw  was  laid  upon  the 
none  too  patient  camel's  back  in  June  of  1781 
through  the  aggressions  of  a  new  arrival  of  sol- 
diers. Captain  Fernando  Rivers,  lieutenant- 
governor  of  Lower  California,  with  a  party  of  sol- 
diers and  emigrants,  stopped  at  Concepcion  on  his 
way  to  Santa  Barbara.  Part  of  his  expedition  he 
sent  on  to  California,  part  back  to  Sonora,  while, 
with  a  handful  of  soldiers,  he  remained,  camping 
on  the  east  side  of  the  Colorado,  where  he  pastured 
his  horses  and  cattle — nearly  a  thousand  head — 
upon  the  mesquite  beans  on  which  the  Yumas 
largely  depended  for  food. 

On  Tuesday,  June  17, 1781,  the  lightning  struck! 
At  Concepcion,  while  in  the  very  act  of  celebrating 
mass.  Father  Garces  was  clubbed  to  death  by  the 
natives  for  whom  he  had  labored  so  earnestly. 
The  comandante  of  the  village,  who  was  also  in  the 
church  at  the  time,  was  killed  in  trying  to  reach 
his  command,  as  was  the  corporal  who  followed 
him.  It  is  recorded  that  the  heroic  Garces  gave 
the  dying  soldier  absolution  even  though  he  was 
at  the  point  of  death  himself. 

At  Bicuner,  the  two  priests,  Diaz  and  Moreno, 
were  killed,  and,  after  having  desecrated  the 
images  and  altar,  the  savages  destroyed  the  church. 

They  next  attacked  the  force  of  Captain  Rivera, 
and  although  the  Spaniards  entrenched  themselves 
and  made  a  valiant  defense,  within  a  few  hours 
the  last  man  was  killed. 

Two  friars,  through  the  aid  of  Chief  Palma, 
who  it  seems  was  not  wholly  in  accord  with  his 


SPANISH  MISSION  DAYS  71 

bloody  tribesmen,  succeeded  in  getting  clear  of 
the  settlement,  but  were  finally  pursued  and  killed. 

When  the  news  of  the  massacre  reached  the 
comandante  of  the  military  forces,  General  de 
Croix,  he  at  once  began  plans  for  the  severest 
retributive  measures.  Though  chafing  under  the 
delay,  it  was  a  year  before  he  could  spare  the  nec- 
essary force,  but  in  September,  1782,  he  sent  a 
hundred  and  sixty  soldiers,  who,  combining  with 
a  company  of  Spaniards  and  allied  friendly  In- 
dians from  California,  engaged  the  Yumas  to 
deadly  purpose.  They  did  thorough  work,  one 
hundred  and  ten  of  the  Yumas  were  killed,  with 
eighty-five  captured  and  ten  Christian  prisoners 
recovered. 

The  story  was  told  by  the  liberated  captives 
that  after  the  massacre  the  Yumas  would  not  live 
in  the  vicinity  of  Concepcion,  for  every  night  a 
ghostly  procession  of  the  slain  would  wend  its  way 
about  the  mission,  each  carrying  a  candle,  while  a 
tall  figure  in  white  walked  at  its  head,  bearing  a 
cross. 

It  must  be  remembered  that,  however  much 
the  Spaniards  suffered  from  the  Yumas,  there  had 
been  provocation  for  their  ghastly  work.  No  such 
extenuation  could  be  credited  to  the  Apaches. 
With  them  raids  upon  weaker  people,  either  red 
men  or  white,  for  the  purpose  of  plunder,  was  part 
of  the  plain  matter  of  living,  and  the  murders 
which  accompanied  these  predatory  acts  were 
often  committed  in  pure  wantonness.  So  persistent 
were  they  in  their  attacks  upon  the  settlements  in 


72  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

the  Santa  Cruz  Valley  and  other  parts  of  Pimeria 
Alta  that,  in  1786,  General  Ugarte,  the  comandante, 
began  a  vigorous  campaign  against  them  in  which 
work  he  was  gladly  aided  by  organized  companies 
of  Pima  and  Opata  allies. 

Diplomacy  as  well  as  military  prowess  seems 
to  have  had  a  part  in  these  operations,  for  at  the 
end  of  an  energetic  campaign  a  treaty  was  made 
wherein  the  Indians  were  to  be  furnished  rations 
which  cost  the  crown  from  $18,000  to  $30,000  a 
year,  and  a  policy  adopted  thereafter  which  surely 
should  meet  with  the  approval  of  those  who  con- 
sider that  the  gentle  Apaches  would  never  have 
given  Arizona  any  trouble  had  it  not  been  for  the 
unkind  treatment  afforded  them  by  the  whites. 
The  old  chronicle  says  that  they  were  furnished 
with  supplies,  encouraged  to  form  settlements  near 
the  presidios,  and  as  a  crowning  consideration, 
taught  to  drink  intoxicating  liquors. 

Still,  even  with  all  this  thoughtfulness,  occa- 
sionally not  only  the  Apaches,  but  even  independ- 
ent groups  of  the  younger  Pimas  and  Papagos  went 
raiding.  However,  the  military  forces  seem  to 
have  been  strong  enough  to  promptly  bring  them 
back  to  the  paths  of  peace  and  mescal,  and  so 
quiet  was  the  time  in  comparison  with  what  went 
both  before  and  after  that  from  1787  to  1815  may 
be  considered  almost  the  golden  period  of  mission 
history — or  at  least  gilded  well  enough  so  in  look- 
ing back  through  the  vista  of  a  century  it  reflects 
a  golden  glamour  not  wholly  unpleasant.  Not  only 
were  the  missions  prosperous,  but  settlers  came  in 


SPANISH  MISSION  DAYS  73 

from  Mexico,  and  stock  raising  and  farming  were 
engaged  in  in  favored  localities.  Trade  was  car- 
ried on  with  Sonora  by  means  of  pack  trains. 
Strongly  guarded  by  armed  escorts,  the  arieros 
would  load  their  pack  mules  with  hides,  wool, 
buckskin  and  rich  ore,  and  take  the  long  journey 
over  hills  and  deserts  to  Hermosillo  or  Guaymas 
and  bring  back  zarapes,  mantillas,  cloth,  sugar, 
imported  wines,  jewels  and  silver  coins. 

Cattle  and  horses  were  raised  along  the  Santa 
Cruz  and  the  San  Pedro,  and  in  such  ranchos  as 
the  San  Bernardino,  and  driven  down  to  the  port 
of  Guaymas  and  turned  into  Spanish  gold. 

It  was  probably  just  prior  to  this  time  that  a 
beginning  was  made  on  the  present  beautiful  mis- 
sion of  San  Xavier.  Padre  Baltasar  Carillo  was 
in  charge  of  the  mission  from  1780  to  1794,  and  it 
is  fairly  well  established  that  the  work  was  started 
early  in  his  administration. 

There  is  a  date,  "1797,"  cut  on  one  of  the  inner 
doors  of  the  church,  which  very  likely  records  the 
year  of  the  structure's  completion.  This  was  dur- 
ing the  administration  of  Padre  Carillo's  former 
assistant,  Padre  Narciso  Gutierres,  who  in  turn 
was  assisted  at  different  times  by  Mariano  Bardoy, 
Ramon  Lopes  and  Angel  Alonzo  de  Prado. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  all,  with  perhaps  one 
exception,  are  very  characteristic  Spanish  names, 
and  it  is  to  these  men  who  built  for  the  glory  of 
God  rather  than  for  their  own  aggrandizement 
that  the  honor  of  making  possible  this  beautiful 
structure  erected  in  the  midst  of  the  desert  is  due. 


74  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Under  the  administration  of  these  devoted 
fathers  we  may  picture  Arizona  mission  life  at  its 
best.  We  can  hear  the  mellow  tones  of  the  bells 
in  the  tower  of  San  Xavier  filling  the  little  valley 
of  the  Santa  Cruz  with  their  music.  We  can  see 
in  the  early  morning  the  Indian  neophytes,  stolid, 
but  wholly  devout,  with  uncovered  heads  and  san- 
daled feet,  assemble  for  matutinal  prayers,  and 
the  rite  once  over,  watch  them  with  clear  con- 
science shuffling  off  to  breakfast  of  corn  cakes  and 
frijoles  to  discuss  the  cock-fight  scheduled  for  the 
following  Sunday  afternoon. 

As  the  day  proceeds  we  witness  an  animated 
picture.  At  a  brickyard  a  vigorous  padre,  with  his 
gown  tucked  up  out  of  the  way  of  his  feet,  is  di- 
recting the  firing  of  a  kiln;  at  the  smithy,  a  friar 
blacksmith  is  cunningly  fashioning  hinges  for  a 
door  to  the  church  or  putting  a  bolt  in  an  ox  bow, 
which,  by  the  way,  will  be  tied  to  the  beast*s  horns. 
Woodworkers  are  making  boards  vdth  hand  saws 
from  timbers  brought  down  from  the  Santa  Cata- 
lina  Mountains  on  the  backs  of  mules  or  burros, 
and  in  the  fields  are  Indians  irrigating  or  weeding 
the  mission  gardens.  At  noon  there  are  more  corn 
cakes,  prayers  and  frijoles ;  in  the  afternoon,  more 
work;  in  the  evening,  mission  bells  again  bring  in 
the  tired  workers  to  spiritual  and  material  nour- 
ishment. The  day,  especially  if  it  is  Saturday,  may 
be  closed  by  a  baile  where  the  Indians  dance  on 
the  hard  ground  to  the  music  of  the  harp  and  the 
guitar.  Yet  we  hear  that  some  of  the  neophytes, 
preferring  paganism  with  indolence  to  piety  cou- 
pled with  labor,  would  occasionally  run  away! 


SPANISH  MISSION  DAYS  75 

At  Guevavi,  the  oldest  mission  of  Arizona,  there 
never  seems  to  have  been  more  than  a  small  adobe 
church,  but  at  Tumacacori  a  very  beautiful  mission 
building  was  erected.  Fray  Beltasar  Garillo  was 
at  Tumacacori  from  1794  to  1798,  and  Fray  Gutier- 
res  from  that  time  until  1820,  and  it  is  likely  to 
these  men,  who  did  the  building  at  San  Xavier, 
should  be  given  the  credit  for  Tumacacori  as  well. 

The  mission  of  San  Xavier  del  Bac,  beyond  all 
question  the  most  beautiful  edifice  in  the  South- 
west, is  kept  in  fairly  good  repair.  On  the  other 
hand,  Tumacacori,  which  was  not  only  more  beau- 
tiful but  far  more  ambitious  than  many  of  the 
California  missions  of  nation-wide  fame,  is  now, 
through  most  deplorable  neglect,  in  sad  decay. 

Beginning  with  the  Mexican  wars  of  independ- 
ence against  Spanish  rule,  the  short  years  of  the 
prosperity  of  the  missions  of  Pimeria  Alta  came 
swiftly  to  an  end.  From  1811  on,  money  and  food 
were  inadequately  and  irregularly  supplied  the 
soldiers  at  the  garrisons,  and  the  military  force 
became  thoroughly  disorganized.  Rations  to  the 
Apaches  also  were  cut  down,  and  in  consequence 
the  redskins  promptly  resumed  their  old  habits  of 
stealing  stock,  raiding  ranches  and  murdering 
settlers. 

The  padres  did  the  best  they  could  to  hold  their 
neophytes  together,  but  on  September  2, 1827,  came 
the  end  of  mission  days.  With  the  independence 
of  Mexico  achieved,  orders  were  given  at  the  capi- 
tal for  the  expulsion  of  the  Franciscans,  and  they 
soon  left  the  country. 


76  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

San  Xavier  was  placed  under  the  charge  of  the 
secular  parish  priest  at  Magdalena,  but  that  was 
miles  away,  and  naturally  visits  could  be  made 
but  rarely. 

In  a  letter  written  in  1835,  Don  Ignacio  Zuniga, 
former  commander  of  the  northern  presidios, 
stated  that  since  1820  no  less  than  five  thousand 
lives  had  been  lost  in  Pimeria,  and  that  at  least  a 
hundred  ranchos,  haciendas,  mining  camps  and 
other  settlements  had  been  destroyed,  and  from 
three  thousand  to  four  thousand  settlers  had  been 
obliged  to  quit  the  northern  frontiers.  He  also 
speaks  of  the  hostility  of  the  Pimas  and  Papagos, 
who  had  doubtless  suffered  at  the  hands  of  the 
military,  as  well  as  from  the  usual  raids  of  the 
Apaches. 

A  melancholy  ending,  surely,  for  a  period  that 
had  promised  so  much — Guevavi,  Tumacacori  and 
San  Ignacio  deserted,  a  squalid  town  at  Tubac, 
another  but  little  better  at  Tucson,  where  the  in- 
habitants depended  more  on  the  adobe  wall  for 
protection  than  on  the  soldiers,  and  San  Xavier 
with  priestless  altar  and  silent  bells. 

But  the  one  bright  ray  perhaps  in  all  this 
depressing  cloud  was  the  fact  that  the  Papago 
neophytes  did  not  forget — but  hid  securely  the 
altar  furniture  for  the  time  when  their  simple 
faith  told  them  the  fathers  would  return,  and  kept 
the  affection  for  them  in  their  hearts. 

We  shall  see  later  that  this  faith  was  not  unre- 
warded. 


Chapter  IV 
THE  ARRIVAL  OF  THE  AMERICANS 

THE  efforts  of  Mexico  to  free  herself  from  the 
rule  of  Spain  had  their  beginning  in  1810 
with  the  revolution  inspired  by  Hidalgo, 
the  fearless,  liberty-loving  curate  of  Durango. 
Although  after  brief  successes  Hidalgo  suffered 
death  at  the  hands  of  the  king's  soldiers,  the  cause 
triumphed,  and  in  1822,  with  the  treaty  signed  by 
General  Iturbide  for  Mexico  and  Viceroy  O'Donoju 
for  Spain,  the  independence  of  the  country  was 
achieved. 

However,  even  independence  does  not  solve  all 
of  a  nation's  civil  problems.  In  1822,  with  great 
acclaim,  Iturbide  was  crowned  emperor;  in  4823 
he  was  compelled  to  give  back  his  crown;  in  1824 
he  was  executed  by  the  new  republic.  What  makes 
this  of  special  interest  to  the  Arizonan  is  that  his 
state  within  those  three  years  was  a  colony  of  the 
king  of  Spain,  an  outlying  district  of  a  New 
World  monarch  and  a  territory  of  the  Republic 
of  Mexico. 

In  1824  the  new  constituent  congress  joined  New 
Mexico  to  Chihuahua  and  Durango  in  one  "Estado 
Interno  del  Norte."  As  the  capital  was  to  be  lo- 
cated in  Chihuahua,  Durango  objected  to  the 
arrangement,  whereupon  the  obliging  law-makers 

77 


78  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

made  a  territory  of  New  Mexico  and  formed 
Chihuahua  and  Durango  into  states. 

The  capital  of  New  Mexico  was,  of  course, 
Santa  Fe,  which  then  contained  a  population  of 
about  forty-five  hundred  people,  and  while  the 
houses  were  of  adobe,  they  were  comfortable  and 
picturesque,  being  built  around  a  central  court  or 
patio.  They  were  furnished  simply,  and  bright- 
ened with  Navajo  blankets. 

Altogether  that  part  of  New  Mexico  had  a  popu- 
lation of  over  twenty  thousand  whites  and  eight 
thousand  friendly  Pueblo  Indians.  Along  the 
upper  Rio  Grande  were  irrigated  ranchos,  rich  in 
horses,  cattle,  grains,  sheep  and  fruit.  A  good 
wine  was  made  and  there  was  a  steady  commerce 
between  the  territory  and  Chihuahua  City. 

In  contrast  to  this  prosperity,  in  the  western 
part  of  the  territory — the  present  Arizona — by  rea- 
son of  the  constant  menace  of  the  Apaches,  things 
were  in  a  sad  condition.  All  the  ranches  had  been 
abandoned,  and  the  only  Spanish  settlements  were 
the  villages  of  Tubac  and  Tucson,  whose  existence 
was  made  possible  by  small  garrisons  of  soldiers. 
At  Tucson  there  was  the  additional  protection  of 
a  surrounding  adobe  wall. 

The  only  mines  that  were  worked  to  any  extent 
in  this  section  under  Spanish  or  Mexican  rule  were 
the  Planchas  de  Plata  already  mentioned  and  the 
Santa  Rita  del  Cobre  copper  mines,  which  were 
located  at  the  foot  of  Ben  Moore  Mountain,  nine 
miles  from  the  modern  Silver  City. 

The  Santa  Rita  was  worked  as  early  as  1804, 


ARRIVAL  OF  THE  AMERICANS  79 

and  the  ore  extracted  was  so  rich  that  it  was  sent 
by  pack  animals  to  Chihuahua,  where  it  was  con- 
verted into  the  copper  coinage  of  the  country. 

Three  mines  were  included  in  the  Planchas  de 
Plata  group,  the  Las  Cruces,  the  Tupustetes,  and 
the  Arizona  or  Arizuma,  from  which  great  chunks 
of  pure  silver  were  taken,  one  mass  alone  weigh- 
ing 2,700  pounds!  Both  the  Santa  Rita  and  the 
Planchas  de  Plata  mines  had  to  be  deserted  from 
time  to  time  on  account  of  attacks  by  the  Apaches. 

The  first  citizen  of  note  from  the  United  States 
to  penetrate  into  the  Southwest  was  Lieut.  Zebulon 
M.  Pike,  who,  in  1806,  with  twenty-two  men,  was 
sent  by  his  superiors  to  explore  the  country  of  the 
Arkansas  and  Red  rivers.  In  January  of  1807  he 
built  a  small  fort  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  Rio 
Grande,  in  Spanish  territory,  believing,  as  he  after- 
wards explained,  that  he  was  on  the  American  side 
of  the  Red  River. 

He  was  arrested  by  Spanish  dragoons  and  taken 
to  Governor  Alencaster  at  Santa  Fe,  who  treated 
him  as  a  guest  rather  than  a  prisoner,  but  never- 
theless took  him  on  to  Chihuahua  to  explain  mat- 
ters to  the  military  chief,  General  Salcedo. 

When  Pike  returned  to  the  States  his  account 
of  the  richness  of  the  Spanish  settlements  in  New 
Mexico  created  much  excitement  not  only  among 
the  adventurers,  but  also  among  the  enterprising 
frontier  merchants  who  were  always  ready  to  send 
argosies  into  danger  where  there  was  a  chance 
for  large  profit. 

The  romantic  story  of  the  "Trail"   that  was 


80  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

made  from  Independence,  Missouri,  to  Santa  Fe 
and  the  great  caravans  of  mule  and  ox  teams  that 
went  over  it  is  well  known. 

From  1822  to  1844  were  the  halcyon  days  of 
dangers  braved,  adventures  encountered  and  for- 
tunes won.  The  amount  of  merchandise  carried 
over  the  trail  the  first  year  was  $15,000;  the  last, 
$450,000. 

Naturally,  many  of  the  bolder  spirits  among 
those  who  went  to  Santa  Fe  ultimately  made  their 
way  yet  farther  west.  As  a  result,  early  in  1824, 
while  the  Franciscans  were  still  holding  mass  at 
San  Xavier  and  Tumacacori,  American  trappers 
and  hunters  were  exploring  the  Gila,  Salt,  Colo- 
rado and  other  rivers,  finding  in  favorable  locali- 
ties plenty  of  beaver  and  an  abundance  of  game 
almost  everywhere  they  went. 

There  were  at  that  time  fourteen  or  more  tribes 
of  Indians  in  Arizona,  which  were  scattered  pretty 
much  all  over  the  state.  Many  of  these  tribes,  like 
the  Pimas,  were  uniformly  hospitable  to  the  new- 
comers; others,  like  the  Mojaves,  were  friendly 
enough  if  treated  with  tact,  but  quick  to  resent  ill 
treatment;  and  still  a  third  class,  as  was  the  case 
with  the  Yumas,  were  almost  always  either  sus- 
picious or  actively  hostile. 

The  Apaches  were  divided  into  a  number  of 
small  clans,  including  the  Chiricahuas,  Mimbres, 
Pinalenos,  Coyoteros,  Aravaipas,  Tontos,  San  Car- 
los, the  Mojave  Apaches  and  the  Yuma  Apaches. 

To  understand  the  Apache  one  must  get  his 
point  of  view.    To  him  life  was  a  perpetual  war- 


ARRIVAL  OF  THE  AMERICANS  81 

fare.  If  a  neighboring  tribe  had  something  that 
he  wanted,  and  he  was  strong  or  cunning  enough 
to  get  it,  there  was  no  reason  why  he  should  not 
take  it;  and,  as  we  have  seen  before,  the  slaying 
of  an  antagonist  on  a  raid  was  simply  an  incident 
of  the  business  in  hand — a  sort  of  Frederick  the 
Great  or  Napoleon  point  of  view.  Add  to  this  that 
the  Apache  was  ever  ready  to  avenge  a  vn'ong  ten- 
fold, and  one  can  begin  to  understand  why,  down 
to  as  late  as  1886,  he  was  the  perpetual  Sword  of 
Damocles  that  hung  over  the  Arizona  pioneer. 

In  justice  to  the  Indian,  however,  it  must  be 
said  that  in  his  trouble  with  the  whites  he  was  not 
always  the  aggressor.  Sometimes  the  white  man 
was  as  bad  as  the  Apache  with  less  excuse  for  his 
depravity. 

There  is  an  old  story,  the  scene  of  which  is  laid 
at  the  Santa  Rita  copper  mine,  of  which  many 
variations  are  told,  and  in  which  there  is  probably 
enough  truth  to  be  an  illuminating  commentary 
on  conditions  in  the  Southwest  at  that  time.  Dur- 
ing 1838,  so  one  account  gives  the  date,  the  Mim- 
bres  Apaches,  under  their  chief,  Juan  Jose,  who 
lived  along  the  present  Arizona-New  Mexico 
boundary,  were  giving  so  much  trouble  to  the  trap- 
pers and  the  Mexicans  who  were  working  the 
Santa  Rita  mines  that  drastic  retaliatory  measures 
were  decided  upon.  At  this  time  there  were  sev- 
eral parties  of  trappers  on  the  headwaters  of  the 
Gila.  The  captain  of  one  of  these  was  an  English- 
man by  the  name  of  James  Johnson,  who  sug- 
gested  a   plan   whereby   the  Mimbres   would   be 


82  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

"settled"  for  all  time.  After  arranging  the  matter 
with  the  managers  of  the  Santa  Rita,  he  invited 
Juan  Jose  and  his  people  to  come  to  the  mine  for 
a  big  feed.  Within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  place 
selected  for  the  feast,  and  pointing  directly  at  the 
spot,  Johnson  concealed  a  six-pound  howitzer, 
loaded  to  the  muzzle  with  slugs,  musket  balls  and 
nails,  under  a  pile  of  pack  saddles.  A  sack  of  flour 
was  given  the  Indians  to  divide,  and  while  the 
Indians  crowded  about  it  Johnson  touched  his 
lighted  cigar  to  the  vent  of  the  gun,  killing  and 
wounding  a  score  or  more,  among  them  Juan  Jose. 
The  massacre,  so  the  stories  go,  was  completed  by 
other  trappers  and  Mexicans. 

The  surviving  members  fled,  but  only  to  plot  a 
fearful  revenge.  The  copper  mines  were  wholly 
dependent  on  Chihuahua  for  supplies,  which  were 
brought  in  guarded  pack  trains.  After  the  mas- 
sacre the  time  for  the  train  came  and  passed  with 
no  word  concerning  it.  Finally,  the  provisions 
were  all  but  exhausted.  The  only  hope  the  miners 
and  their  families  had  of  escaping  starvation  was 
to  cross  the  deserts  that  lay  between  the  mines  and 
the  settlements.  They  started,  but  the  Apaches, 
who  had  destroyed  the  train,  attacked  and  killed 
them  all  but  four  or  five,  who,  after  suffering 
incredible  hardships,  finally  reached  Chihuahua. 

Many  stories,  diff'ering  wholly  in  detail,  but 
agreeing  in  essential  parts,  are  told  of  John  Glan- 
ton,  another  candidate  for  perpetuation  in  the 
halls  of  infamy.  About  1845  depredations  by  the 
Apaches  became  so  continuous  that  the  Mexican 


ARRIVAL  OP  THE  AMERICANS  83 

authorities,  joined  by  wealthy  rancheros,  offered 
$100  for  the  scalp  of  every  Apache  warrior,  $50  for 
the  scalp  of  a  squaw  and  $25  for  that  of  a  child. 
Glanton  became  covetous  for  some  of  this  blood 
money,  but  disliking  the  dangers  incident  to  track- 
ing the  wary  Apache,  decided  that  the  hair  cover- 
ing the  peaceful  Pima  did  not  greatly  differ  from 
that  of  the  quarry  upon  whom  the  reward  had 
been  set,  so  took  to  pot-shooting  not  only  friendly 
Indians,  but  even  Mexicans  themselves,  exchanging 
the  scalps  for  money  at  Chihuahua.  However,  it 
was  a  business  that  any  consers-ative  life  insurance 
company  would  have  classed  as  extra  hazardous, 
and  finally  Glanton  and  his  accomplices  were 
caught  red-handed  while  scalping  Mexicans  they 
had  murdered.  Glanton  escaped  to  New  Mexico, 
but  was  later  killed  by  the  Yuma  Indians,  who  took 
his  worthless  life  in  payment  for  gold  he  had 
stolen  from  them. 

Prominent  among  the  early  trail  makers  of  the 
state  were  Sylvester  Pattie  and  his  son,  James, 
who  entered  the  countrj'  in  1824.  In  an  account 
afterwards  written  by  James  their  adventures  are 
gi'aphically  set  forth  and  include  manj"  battles 
with  the  Indians,  suffering  from  heat  and  thirst  on 
the  desert,  perils  by  tidal  waves  on  the  Colorado, 
and  finally  the  death  of  the  elder  Pattie  in  a  Cali- 
fornia Spanish  prison. 

The  most  picturesque  of  the  pioneer  adven- 
turers was  undoubtedly  Bill  Williams,  for  whom 
Bill  Williams  Mountain  and  Bill  Williams  Fork 
were  named.    We  hear  of  him  in  1825,  in  the  Far 


84  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Northwest,  from  which  point  he  trapped  and 
fought  Indians  as  far  south  as  Sonora.  Long, 
sinewy  and  bony,  with  nose  and  chin  almost  meet- 
ing, he  was  the  typical  plainsman  of  the  dime 
novel.  He  alwaj^s  rode  an  Indian  pony,  and  his 
Mexican  stirrups  were  as  big  as  coal  scuttles.  His 
buckskin  suit  was  bedaubed  with  grease  until  it 
had  the  appearance  of  polished  leather;  his  feet 
were  never  incased  in  anything  but  moccasins,  and 
his  buckskin  trousers  had  the  traditional  fringe  on 
the  outer  seam.  Naturally,  Indian  signs  were  an 
open  book  to  him,  and  he  was  even  readier  to  take 
a  scalp  than  an  Apache,  who  preferred  to  crush 
the  heads  of  his  victims  and  let  the  hair  stay.  At 
the  age  of  sixty  he  died  a  natural  death  caused  by 
a  bullet  from  a  Ute  Indian. 

A  far  different  type  of  man  was  Kit  Carson,  who 
was  the  ablest  plainsman  of  them  all,  and  more 
than  once  rendered  valuable  aid  to  the  nation.  He 
was  Fremont's  guide  throughout  his  explorations, 
and  to  him  rather  than  to  his  chief  should  have 
been  given  the  title  of  "Pathfinder." 

He  was  a  boy  of  seventeen  when  we  first  hear 
of  him  with  a  party  of  trappers  on  the  Gila,  and 
soon  thereafter  was  a  member  of  Ewing  Young's 
party,  where  he  gave  a  good  account  of  himself  in 
a  battle  with  the  Apaches.  Originally  from  Ken- 
tucky, after  1832  he  made  his  home  in  New  Mexico, 
but  was  often  in  Arizona,  where  the  Indians  re- 
spected his  character  as  well  as  his  daring  and  skill 
with  the  rifle.  Withal  he  was  the  most  unassum- 
ing of  men,  never  boasting,  and  with  a  voice  as 


AERIVAL  OF  THE  AMERICANS  85 

soft  as  a  woman's.  In  appearance  he  was  rather 
below  the  average  in  height,  but  muscular  and  of 
almost  incredible  endurance. 


Chapter  V 
THE  WAR  WITH  MEXICO 

OF  the  events  causing  the  transfer  of  title  of 
the  present  Arizona  from  Mexico  to  the 
United  States  the  territory  saw  but  little. 
By  proclamation,  May  30,  1846,  President  Polk 
announced  the  existence  of  a  "state  of  war"  with 
Mexico,  and  in  carrying  out  the  plans  for  the  inva- 
sion of  New  Mexico,  Chihuahua  and  California,  the 
Army  of  the  West  was  organized,  and  its  command 
given  to  Stephen  W.  Kearny.  This  army,  as  it 
moved  westward  from  Bent's  Fort  on  the  Arkan- 
sas, numbered  about  fifteen  hundred  men,  and 
included  a  regiment  of  Missouri  cavalry.  Colonel 
Doniphan;  three  squadrons  of  dragoons.  Major 
Sumner;  two  batteries  of  artillery.  Major  Clark; 
and  two  companies  of  infantry.  Captain  Angney. 

It  was,  of  course,  the  desire  of  the  administra- 
tion at  Washington  to  occupy  this  western  terri- 
tory with  as  little  bloodshed  as  possible,  and  to 
that  end  arts  of  diplomacy  were  invoked  as  well 
as  the  force  of  arms;  so  accompanied  by  Capt. 
Philip  St.  George  Cooke,  with  an  escort  of  soldiers, 
went  James  Magoffin  on  a  "secret  mission"  to  Gov- 
ernor Manuel  Armijo  at  Santa  Fe. 

Magoffin  was  a  man  of  great  tact  and  good  fel- 
lowship who  for  years  had  been  in  the  Santa  Fe 

86 


THE  WAR  WITH  MEXICO  87 

trade  and  was  well  liked  in  New  Mexico.  Just 
what  influence  Magoffin  brought  to  bear  on  the 
governor  was  never  revealed,  but  it  was  conspicu- 
ously successful.  Only  a  few  days  before,  Armijo 
had  issued  a  florid  proclamation  calling  upon  the 
people  to  rally  in  repulsing  the  American  invaders. 
After  his  conference  with  Magoffin,  although  his 
people  offered  him  substantial  support,  when  the 
Americans  reached  Apache  Canyon,  which  could 
have  been  defended  by  the  Mexicans  with  half 
their  resources,  Armijo  had  fled  to  Chihuahua. 

Magoffin  had  more  difficulty  in  winning  over 
Archuleta,  the  second  in  command,  yet  by  appeal- 
ing to  his  ambition  and  cupidity  succeeded  in  over- 
coming his  active  opposition.  As  a  result,  when 
Kearny  came  up  with  his  army,  the  Mexican  forces 
had  faded  away. 

On  August  18th,  without  any  opposition  what- 
ever, the  Americans  entered  the  city  of  Santa  Fe, 
where  they  were  cordially  received  by  Lieutenant- 
Governor  Virgil.  Accompanied  by  a  salute  of  thir- 
teen guns,  the  American  flag  was  raised  over  the 
palacio  of  the  Spanish  governor. 

Without  any  delay,  Kearny  commenced  work 
on  the  military  post.  Fort  Marcy,  and  on  Septem- 
ber 22nd  announced  his  plan  of  civil  government. 
Charles  Bent,  an  American,  who  was  married  to 
an  estimable  Mexican  lady,  was  appointed  gov- 
ernor, with  Donaciano  Virgil,  a  native  New  Mexi- 
can, secretaiy.  For  United  States  attorney,  Francis 
P.  Blair,  Jr.,  afterwards  famous  as  a  statesman 
and  soldier,  was  chosen. 


88  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Four  days  after  the  new  officers  had  been  sworn 
in,  Kearny,  now  a  brigadier-general,  with  two  hun- 
dred dragoons,  commenced  liis  march  to  Cahfor- 
nia.  He  left  behind  him  Colonel  Doniphan,  who 
afterwards  captured  Chihuahua.  Col.  Sterling 
Price,  now  on  his  way  with  the  Mormon  Battalion, 
was  to  stay  with  the  army  at  Santa  Fe. 

Before  Doniphan  started  south  to  commence 
his  campaign  in  Chihuahua,  he  went  to  Bear 
Springs  in  the  Navajo  country,  where  he  had  a  con- 
ference with  the  leading  chiefs  of  that  tribe.  The 
Navajos  were,  then  as  now,  the  strongest  Indian 
nation  of  the  Southwest,  and  although  never  show- 
ing the  wanton,  blood-thirsty  characteristics  of  the 
Apaches,  for  several  years  had  been  the  traditional 
enemies  of  the  Pueblan  Indians  and  the  Mexicans 
alike.  They  had  stolen  their  flocks  and  herds,  and 
had  even  at  times  carried  away  Pueblan  women. 

In  greeting  Doniphan  and  his  associates  the 
Navajo  chiefs  displayed  every  cordiality,  express- 
ing their  friendship  and  admiration  for  the  Ameri- 
cans, but  were  equally  outspoken  regarding  their 
detestation  of  the  Mexicans,  and  could  not  under- 
stand why  Doniphan  should  object  to  their  raiding 
them.  However,  finally,  fourteen  of  the  chiefs 
signed  a  treaty  agreeing  to  be  peaceable,  which 
treaty,  it  may  be  added,  as  was  characteristic  of 
the  Navajo,  they  soon  broke. 

In  January,  a  little  over  three  months  after 
Kearny  had  left,  a  revolt,  headed  by  Don  Thomas 
Ortiz  and  Diego  Archuleta,  who  had  failed  to  re- 
ceive the  honors  and  emoluments  vaguely  sug- 


THE  WAR  WITH  MEXICO  89 

gested  to  him  by  Magoffin,  was  plotted  against  the 
Americans.  The  plan  was  discovered,  however, 
before  it  reached  its  consummation,  and  the  lead- 
ers, like  Armijo,  fled  precipitously  into  Mexico. 
Almost  immediately  afterwards  a  second  revolt 
was  planned  and  executed,  many  Pueblo  Indians 
joining  the  disaffected  Mexicans.  Governor  Bent, 
who  was  visiting  in  Taos,  and  other  American  offi- 
cials were  murdered  in  a  most  barbarous  manner. 

A  vigorous  campaign  against  the  rebels  was 
immediately  begun  by  Colonel  Price,  in  the  course 
of  which  several  small  but  desperate  engagements 
were  fought.  The  insurgents  were  finally  deci- 
sively beaten  and  the  leaders  executed. 

In  the  meanwhile,  on  October  6,  1846,  ten  days 
out  of  Santa  Fe,  General  Kearny  met  Kit  Carson, 
with  fifteen  men,  carrying  important  dispatches 
for  Washington.  From  him  General  Kearny  first 
learned  the  momentous  news  of  the  subjugation  of 
California  by  Commodores  Stockton  and  Sloat  and 
Captain  Fremont.  After  undertaking  the  forward- 
ing of  Carson's  papers  on  to  Washington,  Kearny 
induced  the  guide  to  accompany  him  to  California. 

In  addition  to  his  dragoons  Kearny  had  with 
him  a  train  of  pack  mules  and  two  mountain 
howitzers,  but  no  wagons. 

On  resuming  his  march,  Kearny,  now  about 
two  hundred  and  thirty  miles  below  Santa  Fe,  went 
westward  to  the  copper  mines  on  the  Gila  River, 
and  from  thence  followed  down  the  course  of  the 
river. 

Soon  after  he  entered  what  is  now  Arizona  he 


90  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

encountered  a  band  of  Mimbres  Apaches  headed 
by  Mangas  Colorado,  an  Indian  of  gigantic  stature, 
who  later  was  almost  continuously  on  the  warpath 
against  the  whites.  Although  the  Apaches  made 
no  attempt  to  rob  or  harass  the  Americans,  the 
impression  they  made  was  not  favorable.  Later, 
when  meeting  a  band  of  "Giland"  Apaches,  one  of 
the  chiefs  suggested  to  Kearny  that  if  he  would 
raid  the  Mexican  settlements  of  Sonora,  in  return 
for  loot  they  would  gladly  give  them  plenty  of  rein- 
forcements. 

Upon  being  stopped  by  the  precipitous  walls  of 
the  box  canyon  of  the  Gila  River,  the  Aravaipa 
Trail  was  taken  to  the  San  Pedro  Valley,  from 
whence  the  army  returned  to  the  Gila  along  a  well- 
beaten  Indian  trail,  probably  the  same  one  fol- 
lowed by  Fray  Marcos  three  hundred  years  before. 
From  there  on,  in  a  general  way,  they  followed  the 
river  to  the  Pima  country,  where  the  Indians  re- 
ceived them  most  hospitably,  offering  melons, 
grains  and  provisions  for  sale. 

In  the  journal  of  Capt.  A.  R.  Johnston,  who 
accompanied  the  expedition,  he  says: 

"The  Indians  exhibit  no  sentiments  of  taciturn- 
ity; but,  on  the  contrary,  give  vent  to  their  thoughts 
and  feelings  without  reason,  laughing  and  chat- 
ting together;  and  a  parcel  of  young  girls,  with 
long  hair  streaming  to  their  waists,  and  no  other 
covering  than  a  clean  white  cotton  blanket  folded 
around  their  middle  and  extending  to  their  knees, 
were  as  merry  as  any  group  of  like  age  and  sex  to 
be  met  with  in  our  own  country." 


THE  WAR  WITH  MEXICO  91 

The  Colorado  FUver  was  crossed  by  the  expedi- 
tion on  November  24th,  and  on  December  6th  they 
encountered  a  superior  force  of  Mexicans  at  San 
Pascual,  well  towards  the  Pacific.  After  a  sharp 
engagement  they  drove  them  from  the  field  in  dis- 
order. However,  the  army  of  the  Californians 
re-formed  the  next  day,  and  although  the  attack 
they  made  on  the  Americans  was  unsuccessful, 
they  cut  off  their  further  advance. 

As  Kearny's  men  were  wholly  without  supplies, 
the  situation  was  desperate.  To  get  word  to  the 
Americans,  whom  they  believed  to  be  in  San  Diego, 
that  night  Kit  Carson,  Lieutenant  Beale  and  a 
friendly  Indian  crawled  through  the  enemy's  lines, 
and  although  sick  with  hunger  and  thirst,  and  their 
feet  lacerated  with  cactus  needles,  they  finally 
reached  San  Diego,  where  they  found  Commodore 
Stockton,  who  promptly  sent  back  reinforcements 
with  provisions.  A  day  later  the  Americans 
entered  San  Diego  in  triumph. 

The  Mormon  Battalion,  one  of  the  divisions  of 
Kearny's  army  which  crossed  Arizona  on  its  way 
to  California,  was,  both  in  its  inception  and  his- 
tory, nothing  less  than  remarkable.  Its  members, 
belonging  to  a  religious  sect  that  had  been  perse- 
cuted and  driven  from  their  homes  in  Illinois  and 
Missouri,  offered  their  services  to  do  battle  for  and 
defend  the  very  nation  that  had  failed  to  give  them 
protection. 

However,  their  actions  were  inspired  probably 
by  personal  advantage  as  well  as  loyalty  to  the 
country.    At  the  time  of  the  beginning  of  the  Mex- 


92  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

ican  war,  seeing  that  it  would  be  impossible  for 
them  to  return  to  their  own  homes,  their  leaders 
had  decided  to  emigrate  to  some  place  in  the  Far 
West  in  the  hope  of  finding  a  land  where  they 
could  dwell  without  molestation.  Doubtless  it  was 
the  opportunity^  that  it  would  give  the  soldiers  to 
become  acquainted  with  the  possibilities  of  the 
West  as  a  field  for  colonization  that  made  the 
organization  possible. 

The  agreement  between  the  Mormon  leaders 
and  the  administration  was  that  the  recruits  should 
enlist  for  a  period  of  twelve  months,  with  the  un- 
derstanding that  they  were  to  march  to  California, 
receive  paj'  and  allowances  during  the  time,  and 
at  the  end  of  the  year  be  discharged  and  allowed 
to  keep  their  arms  and  accouterments. 

Five  companies  were  finally  mustered  into  the 
service,  and  a  motley  organization  it  must  have 
been.  It  included  the  feeble  as  well  as  the  strong, 
mere  boys  and  the  old  and  infirm;  it  was  undis- 
ciplined and  ill  clad,  and  to  cap  the  climax,  they 
were  to  carry  their  women  with  them. 

Nevertheless,  on  July  20, 1846,  they  started  west 
from  Council  Bluffs,  Iowa,  where  they  were  mus- 
tered, and  after  great  hardships,  on  October  9th, 
the  first  division  of  the  battalion  arrived  at  Santa 
Fe.  Here  they  were  put  in  command  of  Lieuten- 
ant-Colonel Cooke,  who  immediately  tried  to  make 
some  sort  of  a  military'  organization  out  of  the  raw 
material. 

Realizing  that  it  would  be  utterly  impossible  for 
the  battalion  in  its  present  form  to  make  the  jour- 


THE  WAR  WITH  MEXICO  93 

ney  across  the  deserts  of  Arizona  and  California, 
those  unfit  for  service  were  weeded  out,  reducing 
the  number  from  five  hundred  to  three  hundred 
and  fifty.  Of  the  women,  only  five  wives  of  officers 
were  allowed  to  proceed  with  the  journey,  and 
they  were  obliged  to  furnish  their  own  transporta- 
tion. 

Still,  with  all  the  care  of  preparation  that  Colo- 
nel Cooke  could  make,  the  start  west,  which  com- 
menced October  19th,  was  inauspicious  enough. 
The  troops  had  sixty  days'  rations  of  flour,  sugar, 
salt  and  coffee;  salt  pork  for  thirty  daj^s  and  soap 
for  twenty.  These  supplies  were  to  be  carried  in 
wagons,  and  as  there  had  never  a  wagon,  up  to  that 
time,  crossed  the  territory,  and  roads  other  than 
Indians  trails  or  paths  over  which  the  old  Spanish 
caretas  used  to  travel  between  Tucson  and  Sonora 
were  absolutely  unknown,  some  of  the  difficulties 
which  faced  the  commander  can  be  seen. 

On  account  of  the  wagons  some  of  the  rougher 
mountainous  countrj'^  over  which  Kearny's  dra- 
goons journeyed  was  impassable  for  Cooke,  who 
therefore  led  his  troops  in  a  general  southwesterly 
direction  into  the  state  of  Sonora  to  a  point  about 
fifteen  miles  north  of  the  old  Spanish  presidio  of 
Fronteras,  and  from  there  to  the  San  Pedro  River, 
where  they  turned  north  along  its  course. 

Here  the  soldiers  saw  large  bands  of  wild 
horses,  cattle  and  antelope.  The  cattle  and  horses 
were  from  the  Mexican  ranchos  which  had  been 
abandoned  on  account  of  Indian  troubles. 

There  were   Spanish  bulls   among  them  who 


94  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

seemed  to  object  decidedly  to  the  presence  of  the 
Americans  in  their  domain.  Time  after  time  these 
animals  charged  the  forces,  and  it  was  anything 
but  a  humorous  matter  to  the  men  attacked,  sev- 
eral of  whom  were  severely  wounded.  Naturally, 
shortage  in  beef  rations  was  immediately  reme- 
died. 

December  14th  Colonel  Cooke  came  upon  four 
Mexican  soldiers.  A  sergeant  who  was  in  com- 
mand said  they  had  been  sent  by  Captain  Coma- 
duron,  comandante  of  Tucson,  with  the  request 
that  the  Americans  should  not  pass  through  the 
town.  The  colonel  returned  word  to  the  com- 
mander that  if  the  garrison  was  very  weak  he 
would  probably  not  molest  it,  and  added  that  the 
soldiers  tell  the  people  that  the  Americans  were 
their  friends  and  would  be  glad  to  trade  with  them. 

Continuing  on  their  way,  a  day  or  so  later,  a 
second  delegation  from  Tucson  rode  into  camp 
and  announced  that  they  had  been  authorized  by 
the  comandante  to  make  some  sort  of  an  armistice. 
After  a  discussion,  Cooke  told  them  he  would  be 
satisfied  with  the  delivery  of  a  few  arms  as  a  token 
of  surrender  and  a  parole.  Sixteen  miles  from 
Tucson,  Cooke  was  met  by  a  third  envoy,  a 
mounted  soldier,  who  simply  delivered  a  note 
refusing  the  terms  offered  and  rode  away.  At  this 
skirmishers  were  thrown  out  and  the  column  made 
ready  for  an  engagement,  but  before  they  had  pro- 
ceeded far  two  Mexicans  were  met  who  advised 
them  that  the  soldiers  as  well  as  most  of  the  inhab- 
itants of  the  town  had  fled. 


THE  WAR  WITH  MEXICO  95 

After  camping  on  the  desert  over  night,  the 
Americans  entered  the  town,  where  they  found 
about  a  hundred  people,  perhaps  a  fifth  of  its 
population. 

Following  the  example  of  Kearny,  Colonel 
Cooke  assured  the  people  that  they  would  be 
treated  with  kindness,  and  left  a  diplomatic  letter 
for  Don  Manuel  Gandara,  the  governor  of  Sonora, 
insinuating  that  authorities  at  Washington  were 
really  better  friends  to  him  than  the  central  gov- 
ernment at  Mexico. 

The  Mormons,  of  course,  were  much  interested 
in  the  old  barracks  and  the  surrounding  walls,  but 
still  more  curious  to  learn  what  provisions  could 
be  had.  Their  eager  search  was  rewarded  by  find- 
ing a  quantity  of  wheat  stored  in  the  barracks. 

A  three  daj^s'  journej^  from  Tucson  brought  the 
battalion  to  the  edge  of  the  Pima  country,  where 
these  friendly  Indians  visited  the  camp,  bringing 
letters  from  General  Kearnj^  and  from  his  quarter- 
master which  told  of  eleven  broken  down  mules 
and  two  bales  of  goods  left  for  him  with  the  Pimas. 
Five  of  the  mules  had  died,  but  the  rest,  with  the 
bales,  were  promptly  delivered  to  Colonel  Cooke. 

Writing  of  the  Indians,  the  colonel  says :  "The 
Pimas  are  large  and  fine  looking,  seem  well  fed, 
ride  good  horses,  and  are  variously  clothed,  though 
many  have  only  the  center  cloth;  the  men  and 
women  have  extraordinary  luxuriance  and  length 
of  hair.  With  clean  white  blankets  and  streaming 
hair,  they  presented  quite  a  fine  figure.  But  inno- 
cence and  cheerfulness  are  their  most  distinctive 


96  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

characteristics.  I  am  told  the  Mexican  officers 
offered  them  every  persuasion  and  promise  of 
plunder  to  excite  hostility  toward  us.  A  few 
bushels  of  sweet  corn  were  bought  and  issued  as 
rations." 

A  few  days  later  an  attempt  was  made  to  trans- 
port some  of  their  provisions  by  water  down  the 
Gila  on  an  improvised  barge,  but  on  account  of 
sand  bars  it  was  found  impracticable. 

On  January  9th  the  battalion  reached  the  Colo- 
rado; four  days  were  consumed  in  crossing  the 
river  where  they  used  the  same  improvised  raft 
they  had  used  on  the  Gila. 

The  balance  of  the  long  march  was  made  with- 
out any  noteworthy  incidents,  and  the  old  San 
Diego  mission  was  reached  on  January  27,  1847. 

Although  their  long  march  proved  of  no  special 
benefit  in  winning  the  Mexican  war,  nevertheless 
the  Mormon  battalion  had  accomplished  a  most 
important  work  for  the  Southwest  and  the  nation. 

Illy  provided  with  equipment  and  clothing,  and 
subsisting  largely  on  game  they  killed,  they  had, 
through  mountains  and  deserts,  blazed  a  practical 
wagon  road  from  the  end  of  the  Santa  Fe  trail  to 
the  Pacific,  the  knowledge  of  which  proved  of  in- 
estimable value  to  overland  travelers,  and  sug- 
gested later  a  transcontinental  railroad  route  that, 
owing  to  lack  of  steep  grades,  could  be  built  at 
minimum  expense. 


Chapter  VI 
THE   BOUNDARY   SURVEY 

THE  treaty  of  Guadalupe-Hidalgo,  which  was 
signed  February  2, 1848,  ended  the  Mexican 
war  and  added  to  the  United  States  875,000 
square  miles  of  territory,  which  included  Texas, 
New  Mexico  and  California.  The  southern  boun- 
dary of  what  is  now  Arizona,  under  the  terms  of 
the  treaty,  was  fixed  at  the  Gila  River;  the  survey 
of  the  line  between  the  two  nations  to  be  made 
under  the  direction  of  one  commissioner  from  each 
side. 

Early  in  1849,  President  Polk  appointed  John 

B.  Weller,  afterwards  governor  of  California,  as 
commissioner  to  represent  the  United  States,  and 
Gen.  Pedro  Garcia  Conde  was  selected  by  the  Mex- 
ican government.  Before  the  work  was  com- 
menced, however,  Weller  was  succeeded  by  John 

C.  Fremont,  who,  being  elected  senator  from  Cali- 
fornia, resigned,  and,  in  June,  1850,  John  R.  Bart- 
lett  was  appointed  in  his  place. 

In  February,  1851,  we  find  Commissioner  Bart- 
lett  in  his  headquarters  at  the  Santa  Rita  copper 
mine,  and  the  work  being  prosecuted  along  the 
Gila  River. 

Besides  the  establishment  of  the  international 
line,  a  careful  investigation  of  the  natural  features 

97 


98  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

of  the  country  was  undertaken,  so  in  addition  to 
the  large  corps  of  engineers,  which  was  in  charge 
of  Lieut.  A.  W.  Whipple,  the  party  included  a 
botanist,  a  geologist  and  other  men  of  scientific 
attainments. 

As  with  all  expeditions  into  the  Southwest  at 
that  time,  the  constant  possibility  of  attacks  from 
Apaches  had  to  be  considered  and  provided 
against.  With  the  Bartlett  party  there  was  an 
escort  of  eighty-five  soldiers  commanded  by  Colo- 
nel Craig. 

The  Santa  Rita  mine  was  located  in  the  country 
of  the  Mimbres  Apaches,  and  the  members  of  that 
tribe  were  daily  visitors  at  the  camp,  ever  ready  to 
accept  the  substantial  crumbs  that  fell  from  the 
rich  man's  table. 

Mangas  Colorado,  who  was  then  the  chief  of  the 
Mimbres,  was  one  of  the  most  remarkable  Indians 
in  American  history.  A  giant  in  stature,  strength 
and  mentality,  he  had  all  the  requisites  of  natural 
leadership,  and  was  withal  one  of  the  bloodiest 
savages  that  ever  lived.  Captain  Cremony,  who 
knew  him  well,  says  of  him': 

"He  exercised  influence  never  equaled  by  any 
savage  of  our  time,  when  we  take  into  considera- 
tion the  fact  that  the  Apaches  acknowledge  no 
chief  and  obey  no  orders  from  any  source.  The 
life  of  Mangas  Colorado,  if  it  could  be  ascertained, 
would  be  a  tissue  of  the  most  extensive  and  afflict- 
ing revelations,  the  most  atrocious  cruelties,  the 
most  vindictive  revenges  and  widespread  injuries 
ever  perpetrated  by  an  American  Indian.      The 


THE  BOUNDARY  SURVEY  99 

northern  portions  of  Chihuahua  and  Sonora,  large 
tracts  of  Durango,  the  whole  of  Arizona,  and  a 
very  considerable  part  of  New  Mexico  were  laid 
waste,  ravished  and  destroyed  by  this  man  and  his 
followers.  A  strip  of  country  twice  as  large  as  all 
California  was  rendered  almost  houseless,  unpro- 
ductive, uninhabitable  by  his  active  and  uncom- 
promising hostility.  Large  and  flourishing  towns 
were  depopulated  and  ruined.  Vast  ranchos,  such 
as  that  of  Babaconlari  and  San  Bernardino,  once 
teeming  with  wealth  and  immense  herds  of  cattle, 
horses  and  mules,  were  turned  into  waste  places 
and  restored  to  their  pristine  solitudes.  The  name 
of  Mangas  Colorado  was  the  tocsin  of  terror  and 
dismay  throughout  a  vast  region  of  country,  whose 
inhabitants  existed  by  his  sufferance  under  penalty 
of  supplying  him  with  the  requisite  arms  and  am- 
munition for  his  many  and  terrible  raids.  He  com- 
bined many  attributes  of  real  greatness  with  the 
ferocity  and  brutality  of  the  bloodiest  savage.  The 
names  of  his  victims,  by  actual  slaughter  or  cap- 
tivity, would  fill  a  volume,  and  the  relation  of  his 
deeds,  throughout  a  long  and  merciless  life,  put  to 
shame  the  records  of  the  Newgate  Calendar." 

One  of  Mangas'  wives  was  a  Mexican  woman  of 
comely  appearance,  whom  he  had  stolen  in  a 
Sonora  raid.  This  woman,  his  "favorite"  of  sev- 
eral wives,  bore  him  three  fine  looking  daughters, 
and,  with  a  true  monarch's  diplomacy,  he  married 
them  to  oth^r  leaders  of  men  like  himself.  One 
became  the  wife  of  a  Navajo  chief,  and  the  other 
two  were  espoused  to  heads  of  influential  Apache 
bands,  thus  widening  his  sphere  of  influence. 


100  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

At  the  Santa  Rita  mines  the  presence  of  the  sol- 
diers, for  a  time,  had  a  salutary  effect  upon  the 
Indians,  but  it  was  inevitable  that  friction  should 
come  sooner  or  later. 

The  first  hint  of  trouble  showed  itself  one  day 
when  two  naked  Mexican  boys,  about  ten  or  twelve 
years  of  age,  dashed  into  camp,  and,  running  into 
the  tent  of  Captain  Cremony,  the  interpreter  for 
the  expedition,  breathlessly  explained  that  they 
had  escaped  from  the  Apaches,  who  had  stolen 
them  six  months  before. 

Mangas  Colorado  was  in  the  camp  at  the  time, 
and  calmly  proposed  that  if  Bartlett  wanted  the 
boys  he  should  buy  them.  The  commissioner  re- 
plied that  they  had  been  stolen  and  that  he  was 
going  to  take  them  without  pay. 

At  this  there  was  a  terrible  commotion,  and,  at 
a  solemn  conference  that  was  held  later,  the  out- 
raged Apache  chiefs  arraigned  the  perfidious 
Americans  in  scathing  terms.  Had  not  the  Apaches 
always  been  not  only  friends  but  brothers  to  the 
Americans?  Had  they  not  allowed  them  to  enter 
into  their  country  and  live  among  them?  Then 
how  could  they  now  try  to  steal  their  property? 
These  captives  belonged  to  a  poor  man,  and  their 
labor  as  slaves,  or  the  proceeds  of  their  ransom, 
was  sorely  needed  by  his  wife  and  children.  They 
were  captured  at  the  risk  of  the  poor  man's  life! 
Should  he  now  tamely  give  them  up? — and  so  on 
and  so  on,  the  oratory  lasting  for  hours. 

The  eloquence  was  irresistible.  The  additional 
fact  that  the  hills  were  full  of  Apaches  who  held 


THE  BOUNDARY  SURVEY  101 

similar  views  as  to  property  rights  was  also  irre- 
sistible. The  poor,  outraged  Indian  was  given  $250 
worth  of  commissary  supplies. 

A  second  cause  for  trouble  came  out  of  the  inci- 
dent of  the  killing  of  an  Apache  by  a  Mexican 
laborer  over  the  possession  of  a  whip.  The  Indians 
(again  in  conference),  through  one  of  their  ora- 
tors, Ponce,  demanded  that  the  man  be  immedi- 
ately turned  over  to  them  for  death,  according  to 
their  customs!  Commissioner  Bartlett  explained 
that  the  man's  case  must  be  tried  before  the  au- 
thorities at  Santa  Fe,  where,  if  he  were  executed, 
it  would  be  done  decently  and  in  order. 

This  caused  an  absolute  flood  of  expostulatory 
oratory.  What  good  would  it  do  the  Apaches  there 
for  the  man  to  be  hanged  in  far  off  Santa  Fe,  where 
they  couldn't  see  it!  The  mother  of  the  murdered 
man  wanted  the  blood  of  the  slayer  then  and  there. 

The  matter  was  compromised  by  Bartlett  pay- 
ing the  mother  $30  and  making  the  Mexican  work 
in  captivity,  also  paying  his  wages  to  the  mother. 

Although  the  Indians  accepted  the  money,  it  did 
not  in  the  least  coincide  with  their  ideas  of  justice, 
and  in  their  dissatisfaction  they  took  to  stealing 
live  stock  belonging  to  the  expedition,  and  at  the 
same  time  pretending  to  be  very  zealous  in  search- 
ing for  the  thieves.  Finally,  Delgodito,  one  of  the 
sub-chiefs  who  had  been  especially  favored  in  gifts 
and  otherwise  by  the  party,  was  caught  in  the  act 
of  running  off  a  bunch  of  cows. 

Seeing  that  the  game  was  up,  Delgodito  dropped 
his  mask  and,  from  what  he  thought  was  a  safe 


102  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

distance,  reviled  his  pursuers  with  taunts  and  ges- 
tures. At  the  very  moment  of  a  particularly  in- 
sulting posture,  dear  to  the  Apache's  heart,  a  bullet 
from  the  rifle  of  a  teamster  made  a  crease  along 
his  skin,  and  the  howl  of  pain  that  the  Indian  gave 
was  music  to  the  Americans. 

After  that  the  expedition  moved  its  headquar- 
ters to  the  land  of  the  peaceful  Pimas,  a  tribe 
whose  characters  were  as  good  as  the  Apaches' 
were  evil. 

Somewhat  earlier  than  this,  while  the  commis- 
sioner's party  was  still  at  Santa  Rita,  a  band  of 
Mexican  traders,  under  the  leadership  of  one  Peter 
Blacklaws,  visited  the  camp,  bringing  with  them  a 
Mexican  girl  by  the  name  of  Inez  Gonzales,  whom 
they  had  bought  from  the  Pinaleno  Apaches.  Al- 
though the  girl  had  not  been  specially  mistreated 
by  the  Indians,  she  had  been  held  in  slavery,  and 
sold  like  any  other  chattel  to  Blacklaws.  Bartlett 
at  once  took  charge  of  her,  and  later  had  the  pleas- 
ure of  personally  returning  her  to  her  people. 

Inez,  who  was  but  fourteen  years  old,  told  the 
commissioner  that  the  Apaches  had  a  number  of 
Mexican  slaves,  both  men  and  women.  Indeed,  it 
was  rather  a  common  custom  for  the  Apache 
braves  to  marry  and  treat  quite  like  their  own 
women  girls  taken  from  Mexican  families. 

All  this  time  the  work  of  surveying  the  interna- 
tional boundary  was  being  carried  on  in  a  lei- 
surely fashion,  and  finally,  after  many  delays,  was 
completed  in  July,  1853. 


Chapter  VII 
THE  GADSDEN  PURCHASE 

FOR  several  reasons  the  boundary  line  as 
established  by  the  treaty  of  Guadalupe- 
Hidalgo  did  not  prove  to  be  a  permanent 
one.  Reports  made  by  Maj.  William  H.  Emory, 
astronomer  and  escort  commander  under  Bartlett, 
and  others,  as  well  as  the  experience  of  Colonel 
Cooke  with  the  Mormon  Battalion,  brought  to  the 
attention  of  the  administration  at  Washington  that 
the  most  feasible  southern  route  for  a  railroad  to 
the  Pacific  lay  in  the  Mexican  territory  south  of 
the  Gila  River.  Also,  while  the  country  was  con- 
sidered of  negligible  value  for  agricultural  pur- 
poses, it  was  believed  to  have  grazing  possibilities 
and  to  be  exceedingly  rich  in  minerals. 

Naturally,  through  feelings  of  pride,  Mexico 
would  be  loath  to  give  up  more  of  her  territorj'^  to 
the  United  States;  yet  she  was  desperately  in  need 
of  money,  so  to  James  Gadsden,  United  States  min- 
ister to  Mexico,  was  given  the  commission  of  pur- 
chasing, if  possible,  a  strip  of  land  below  the  then 
borders  of  New  Mexico,  whose  southern  boundary 
in  the  part  that  is  now  Arizona  reached  only  to  the 
Gila. 

So  successful  was  Mr.  Gadsden  in  his  efforts 
that  he  brought  back  with  him  not  one  offer,  but 

103 


104  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

three,  from  the  Mexican  government,  and  assur- 
edly all  of  them  were  bargains.  For  $25,000,000 
the  United  States  could  have  all  of  the  land  south 
of  the  Gila  to  the  parallel  of  latitude  30°,  with 
Lower  California  thrown  in;  for  $15,000,000,  Mex- 
ico would  place  the  boundary  at  latitude  31°,  or, 
if  the  United  States  only  wanted  to  spend  its  small 
change,  for  $10,000,000  it  could  have  the  land  em- 
braced within  its  boundaries  as  they  are  today. 

When  it  is  appreciated  that  the  first  offer  would 
have  given  to  us,  in  addition  to  Lower  California, 
the  greater  part  of  Chichuahua  and  Sonora,  with 
the  rich  mineral,  timber  and  agricultural  lands  of 
these  states,  together  with  the  valuable  port  of 
Guaymas  on  the  Gulf  of  California,  and  also  when 
it  is  further  realized  that  the  copper  mines  at  Bis- 
bee  (which  were,  of  course,  situated  on  land  in- 
cluded in  the  purchase)  could  have  paid  the 
purchase  price  of  $25,000,000  many  times  over,  the 
opportunity  which  the  United  States  let  slip 
through  her  fingers  will  be  realized. 

There  is  little  doubt,  though,  that  this  offer 
would  have  been  accepted  had  it  not  been  for  the 
opposition  of  the  anti-slavery  faction  which  re- 
garded all  states  south  of  the  thirty-third  parallel 
as  slave  territory. 

Major  Emory,  who  had  done  most  efficient  work 
on  the  first  boundary  survey,  was  appointed  com- 
missioner and  surveyor  to  establish  the  line,  with 
Jose  Salazar  Ylarregui  as  Mexican  commissioner, 
assisted  by  Francis  Jiminez  as  chief  engineer.  The 
initial  monument  was  established  at  El  Paso,  Jan- 


THE  GADSDEN  PURCHASE  105 

uary  31,  1855,  and  by  June,  1856,  the  survey  had 
proceeded  as  far  west  as  Nogales.  The  line  from 
the  west  was  started  at  the  Colorado  River  by 
Lieut.  N.  Michler  in  December,  1854,  but  after  pro- 
ceeding eastward  for  a  short  distance  he  was 
forced  to  stop  operations  on  account  of  the  impos- 
sibility of  securing  an  adequate  water  supply  and 
joined  Emory  in  Nogales.  The  party  pushed  west- 
ward from  that  point,  and  in  spite  of  the  summer 
weather  coming  on,  the  work  was  prosecuted  with- 
out interruption  and  was  completed  in  August. 

In  addition  to  the  boundary  line,  other  impor- 
tant surveys  were  made  in  Arizona  during  the 
'50s,  especially  valuable  as  most  of  them,  like  both 
the  surveys  just  completed,  included  scientific  in- 
vestigation of  the  country'  passed  through,  and  gave 
the  East  accurate  knowledge  of  its  newly  acquired 
southwestern  territory. 

The  first  survey  in  northern  Arizona  was  made 
by  Capt.  L,  Sitgreaves  during  1852,  his  superiors 
instructing  him  to  follow  the  course  of  the  Zuni 
River  to  the  Gulf  of  California.  He  did  not  at- 
tempt to  follow  the  Colorado  through  the  canj^on, 
but  instead  turned  west  near  the  thirty-fifth  paral- 
lel until,  reaching  the  Colorado  at  that  latitude,  he 
journeyed  along  its  course  to  Fort  Yuma. 

In  1853-54,  under  the  direction  of  the  War  De- 
partment, a  preliminar}^  reconnoissance  for  a  pos- 
sible railroad  was  run  by  Lieut.  A.  W.  Whipple 
and  Lieut.  J.  C.  Ives  and  party  from  Fort  Smith, 
Arkansas,  along  the  thirty-fifth  parallel  to  Cali- 
fornia. 


106  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Another  survey  across  northern  Arizona  about 
the  same  tmie  was  made  by  Francis  Xavier  Aubrey, 
who  ran  a  line  eastward  from  Tejon  Pass,  Califor- 
nia, through  to  Zuni,  New  Mexico.  In  building 
through  Arizona,  the  Atlantic  &  Pacific  Railroad 
followed  rather  closely  in  places  the  line  run  by 
him. 

Surveys  for  projected  railroads  were  made 
through  southern  Arizona  by  Lieut.  J.  G.  Parke  in 
1854-55,  by  A.  B.  Gray  in  1855,  and  by  J.  B.  Leach 
and  N.  H.  Hutton  two  or  three  years  later. 

Lieut.  Edward  S.  Beale,  who,  with  Kit  Carson, 
slipped  through  the  Mexican  line  after  the  battle  of 
San  Pascual,  in  1858  surveyed  a  line  for  a  wagon 
road  in  the  same  parallel  followed  by  Lieutenant 
Whipple.  One  interesting  feature  of  his  work  was 
that  he  used  camels  as  pack  animals.  These  were 
animals  owned  by  the  War  Department,  the  story 
of  which  will  be  told  later. 

All  of  these  parties  naturally  had  more  or  less 
trouble  with  the  Indians,  for  example,  the  Aubrey 
party  was  attacked  by  forty  or  fifty  Apaches,  who 
up  to  that  moment  had  concealed  their  arms,  and 
as  further  "camouflage"  were  accompanied  by 
their  women  and  children.  As  soon  as  the  fight 
was  fairly  on,  two  hundred  and  fifty  more  Indians 
suddenly  appeared,  charging  with  clubs,  bows  and 
arrows.  Nevertheless,  the  little  party  of  eighteen 
white  men,  with  rifles  and  Colt  revolvers,  were 
finally  able  to  beat  them  off. 

On  the  branches  of  the  upper  Gila,  Aubrey  re- 
ports he  saw  an  Indian  load  his  gun  with  gold 
bullets  to  shoot  a  rabbit! 


THE  GADSDEN  PURCHASE      107 
EARLY  OVERLAND  TRAVEL 

Beginning  with  the  close  of  the  Mexican  war, 
overland  travel  through  Arizona  to  California 
steadily  increased  until,  by  the  end  of  1851,  it  has 
been  estimated  that  over  sixty  thousand  people 
passed  through  the  territory.  The  route  usually 
followed  was,  in  a  general  way,  the  old  Cooke 
wagon  road,  though  various  cut-offs  were  some- 
times taken. 

While  the  southern  route  must  have  been  much 
more  pleasant  to  follow  in  the  winter  than  the 
more  northerly  one,  the  sufferings  from  heat  and 
drought  in  the  desert  during  the  summer  could 
have  been  nothing  less  than  terrible. 

At  this  time  the  depredations  of  the  Apaches 
were  mainly  against  the  Mexicans,  nevertheless 
both  exploring  and  emigrant  parties  of  Americans 
were  not  infrequently  attacked.  The  larger  wagon 
trains,  if  well  guarded,  usually  got  through  without 
serious  molestation,  but  the  Apaches  seemed  sel- 
dom able  to  resist  raiding  small  or  illy-guarded 
groups. 

Conspicuous  because  of  the  publicity  given  to  it 
at  the  time,  though  no  worse  than  hundreds  of 
other  similar  incidents,  was  the  Oatman  massacre 
of  1851. 

Royse  Oatman  and  family  were  members  of  a 
party  of  fifty  emigrants  which  left  Independence, 
Missouri,  in  the  summer  of  1850,  planning  to  form 
a  colony  on  the  fertile  lands  of  the  lower  Colorado 
River.    When  they  reached  the  Pima  villages,  Feb- 


108  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

ruary  16,  1851,  finding  their  food  supply  getting 
low,  Oatman  decided  to  push  on  with  his  family  to 
Fort  Yuma.  A  few  days  later,  while  camping  just 
helow  Gila  Bend,  he  was  visited  by  a  party  of 
Tonto  Apaches,  who  came  up  friendly  enough  and 
asked  for  food,  but  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  their 
request  was  granted,  they  suddenly  attacked  and 
killed  the  father  and  mother  with  clubs.  An  infant 
child  was  also  killed,  and  the  son,  Lorenzo,  a  boy 
of  fifteen,  was  clubbed,  thrown  over  a  rocky  point 
and  left  for  dead.  A  girl,  Olive,  aged  sixteen,  and 
Mar3'^  Ann,  aged  seven,  were  taken  captives. 

After  the  Indians  had  left,  Lorenzo,  gaining  con- 
sciousness, managed  to  make  his  way  back  to  the 
Pima  villages.  The  girls  were  carried  to  the  moun- 
tains in  north-central  Arizona,  where  they  were 
treated  as  slaves,  and,  after  about  a  year  of  cap- 
tivity, were  sold  to  a  band  of  Mojaves,  who  took 
them  to  their  haunts  on  the  Colorado  River.  Here 
they  seem  to  have  been  treated  about  the  same 
as  the  other  Mojave  women,  gathering  roots  and 
seeds  for  food,  while  the  men  put  in  their  time  at 
hunting. 

Worn  by  the  tortures  of  her  life,  the  younger 
girl  died  in  captivity,  but  Olive  was  kept  by  the 
Mojaves  until  1856,  when  Americans,  learning  of 
her  slavery,  ransomed  her  and  restored  her  to  her 
brother. 

EARLY  MILITARY  POSTS 

In  September  of  1849,  Lieut.  C.  J.  Coutts,  in 
charge  of  the  military  escort  to  the  boundary  sur- 


THE  GADSDEN  PURCHASE  109 

veyors,  established  Camp  Calhoun  on  the  Cali- 
fornia side  of  the  Colorado  River,  and,  as  no  ferrj' 
had  yet  been  established,  gave  much  needed  aid 
to  travel-weary  emigrants  in  crossing  the  stream. 

Although  the  emigrant  trail  led  through  the 
present  southern  Arizona,  it  must  be  remembered 
that,  being  in  the  country  below  the  Gila,  it  was 
on  Mexican  territorj',  and  therefore  could  not  be 
garrisoned  by  Americans. 

On  November  27,  1850,  Major  Heintzelman  ar- 
rived with  soldiers  from  San  Diego  and  established 
a  garrison,  also  on  the  California  side,  which  he 
called  Camp  Independence,  The  next  March  the 
garrison  was  transferred  to  the  site  of  the  old  Span- 
ish mission  of  Father  Garces  and  christened  Fort 
Yuma. 

The  only  other  military  post  guarding  Arizona 
at  that  time  was  Fort  Defiance,  which  had  been 
established  in  1849,  just  west  of  the  New  Mexico- 
Arizona  boundar}^  in  the  present  Navajo  Reserva- 
tion. Its  principal  purpose  was  to  keep  a  v^^atchful 
eye  on  the  tricky  Navajo,  who  had  a  decided 
penchant  for  raiding  ranches  of  the  Pueblans, 
Mexicans  and  Americans  as  far  east  as  the  Rio 
Grande. 

NAVIGATION  ON  THE  COLORADO 

At  first  it  would  not  seem  that  navigation  would 
find  a  place  in  the  annals  of  arid  Arizona,  yet  from 
1852  until  the  completion  of  the  Southern  Pacific 
from  the  western  coast  to  Yuma  many  passengers 


110  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

and  more  freight  were  brought  in  deep  sea  boats 
from  California,  which,  rounding  Cape  San  Lucas, 
sailed  up  the  Gulf  of  California  to  some  convenient 
bay  like  Port  Ysabel,  where  they  would  be  met  by 
light  river  steamers,  and  transfer  of  freight  and 
passengers  be  made. 

Yuma,  175  miles  up  the  river,  was  the  disem- 
barking point  for  southern  Arizona,  while  passen- 
gers and  freight  for  Wickenburg,  Prescott  and 
central  Arizona  would  be  unloaded  at  La  Paz  or 
Ehrenberg.  Hardyville,  337  miles  up  the  river 
from  Yuma,  was  generally  considered  the  head  of 
navigation,  though  for  a  while  one  steamer,  at 
least,  made  regular  trips  to  the  mouth  of  the  Virgin 
River  some  considerable  distance  farther  to  the 
north. 

Soon  after  the  establishment  of  Fort  Yuma  the 
Government  gave  a  contract  to  George  A.  Johnston 
for  taking  freight  from  San  Francisco  to  Yuma 
via  the  Gulf  of  California.  Johnston  brought  his 
first  cargo  in  the  schooner  Sierra  Nevada  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Colorado,  where  he  built  flatboats, 
piled  the  freight  on  them,  and  pulled  them  by 
hand  to  Yuma.  The  second  contract  was  given 
to  Captain  Turnbull,  who  built  a  small  side  wheel 
steamer,  the  Uncle  Sam,  at  the  Colorado's  mouth. 
However,  the  craft  did  not  have  engine  power 
enough  to  successfully  negotiate  the  rapid  cur- 
rent of  the  river  at  high  water.  On  June  22,  1854, 
it  sank  at  her  moorings  a  few  miles  below  Fort 
Yuma. 

In  January,  1854,  the  General  Jessup,  a  much 


THE  GADSDEN  PURCHASE  111 

larger  boat,  was  brought  in  by  Capt.  George  A. 
Johnston,  and  from  then  until  the  Southern  Pacific 
Railroad  reached  the  Colorado,  Johnston  and  his 
associates  controlled  the  river  traffic. 

In  September,  1854,  the  General  Jessup  ex- 
ploded, and  its  successors,  which  were  put  into 
commission  at  different  times,  included  the  Colo- 
rado, 120  feet  long;  the  Cocopah,  140  feet  long; 
the  Colorado  No.  2,  145  feet  long;  the  Mojave,  135 
feet  long;  the  Cocopah  No.  2,  and  barges  Black 
Crook,  White  Fawn  and  Yuma. 

Opposition  to  the  Johnston  line  appeared  in 
1864  in  the  steamer  Esmeralda,  owned  by  Thomas 
E.  Trueworthy,  and  the  Vina  Tilden  of  the  Phila- 
delphia Mining  Company.  Two  years  later  a  new 
navigation  company  bought  the  two  boats,  but 
failed  soon  afterwards,  leaving  a  clear  field  to 
Johnston. 

As  is  the  case  in  all  western  streams,  the  waters 
of  the  Colorado  fluctuate  greatly  during  the  differ- 
ent seasons.  Draining  much  of  the  western  Rocky 
Mountain  slopes,  in  early  summer  a  rise  of  thirty 
feet  will  sometimes  happen  at  Yuma,  and  in  the 
narrow  gorges  of  the  Grand  Canyon  the  water  not 
infrequently  mounts  one  hundred  feet  or  more  up 
the  precipitous  walls.  For  the  rest  of  the  year  the 
river  dwindles  to  a  sluggish,  almost  shallow 
stream,  brick-red  with  mud.  These  are  the  times 
when  the  early  steamboats  would  spend  dreary 
hours  getting  on  and  off  sand  and  mud  bars,  and 
on  summer  days,  with  the  mercury  registering  115 
or  more,  the  boredom  of  the  passengers  would 


112  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

only  be  equaled  by  the  perspiring  disgust  of  the 
boat  crew. 

The  first  craft  on  the  Colorado  to  be  used 
steadily  as  a  ferry  had  been  built  at  the  Pima 
villages  bj'^  a  party  of  emigrants  and  floated  down 
the  Gila.  An  added  interest  was  given  to  the  voy- 
age by  the  birth  of  a  son  to  Mrs.  Howard,  the  wife 
of  a  clergj^man — probably  the  first  child  of  Ameri- 
can parentage  to  be  born  in  Arizona. 

This  flatboat  was  operated  as  a  ferry  for  a 
while  on  the  Colorado  at  Fort  Yuma  under  the 
direction  of  Lieutenant  Coutts,  when  it  passed 
into  the  hands  of  a  man  by  the  name  of  Lincoln 
and  the  notorious  scalp-hunter,  Glanton.  Glanton 
quarreled  with  the  operator  of  a  rival  ferry  and 
killed  him;  whereupon,  as  has  been  related,  al- 
ready having  grievances  enough  against  Glanton,  |9 
the  Yuma  Indians  shot  him  to  death  with  their 
arrows. 

This  seemed  to  have  stopped  the  ferry  business 
for  a  while,  but  in  July,  1850,  a  new  boat  of  cotton- 
wood  logs  was  built  by  L.  J.  F.  Jaeger  and  B.  M. 
Hartshorn,  and  the  service  was  re-established. 


i 


Chapter  VIII 
MINING  AND  TRANSPORTATION 


FROM  THE  GADSDEN  PURCHASE  TO  THE 
CIVIL  WAR 

IMMEDIATELY  upon  the  consummation  of  the 
Gadsden  treatj^  although  a  wholesome  fear 
of  the  Apaches  prevented  any  great  rush  of 
settlers  into  this  new  countrj^  which  was  consid- 
ered fabulously  rich  in  minerals,  nevertheless 
there  began  a  steady  influx  of  the  type  of  pioneers 
the  frontier  always  attracts — men  indifferent  to 
perils  and  hardships  so  long  as  there  is  either  the 
golden  lure  of  fortune  or  a  brave  chance  for 
adventure. 

Among  the  earliest  of  these  arrivals  was 
Charles  D.  Poston,  destined  afterwards  to  play  an 
important  part  in  the  development  of  the  terri- 
tory. Coming  by  water,  he  landed  at  Navachista 
on  the  Gulf  of  California,  in  1854,  and  proceeded 
with  Herman  Ehrenberg,  an  expert  mining  engi- 
neer, to  Tubac,  which  they  found  deserted,  but 
with  the  houses  in  fairly  good  condition.  They 
remained  in  the  vicinity  all  winter,  making  Tubac 
their  headquarters  and  prospecting  the  hills  there- 
abouts for  precious   metals.     So   impressed   was 

113 


114  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Poston  with  the  mineral  possibiHties  of  the  new 
country  that  in  1856  we  find  liim  tlie  leader  of  an 
expedition  sent  out  by  the  Sonora  Exploring  and 
Mining  Company,  a  corporation  organized  at  Cin- 
cinnati, with  Gen.  S.  P.  Heintzelman  as  president, 
for  the  purpose  of  engaging  in  mining  in  the  rich 
country  Poston  had  visited.  Tubac  was  the  ob- 
jective of  the  expedition,  which  it  reached  via 
Tucson  in  1857.  With  Poston,  who  besides  being 
a  director  was  to  act  as  manager,  returned  Her- 
man Ehrenberg. 

MINING  ACTIVITIES  ABOUT  TUBAC 

The  Americans  proceeded  to  repair  the  old 
adobe  buildings  of  the  town.  The  frames  for 
doors  and  windows  as  well  as  furniture  were 
obtained  by  sawing  out  lumber  with  whipsaws 
from  the  pines  of  the  Santa  Cruz  Mountains.  For 
their  meat  supply  we  read  that  they  had  more 
bear,  antelope  and  turkey  than  they  could  use. 

The  principal  mine  which  the  company  devel- 
oped was  the  Heintzelman,  located  thirty  miles 
from  Tubac.  The  first  run  of  its  ore  was  made 
through  an  adobe  furnace,  it  taking  six  hundred 
hours  to  smelt  out  two  thousand  ounces  of  silver 
and  three  hundred  pounds  of  copper.  Although 
more  modern  methods  were  used  later,  in  spite  of 
the  fact  that  the  ore  was  very  rich,  sampling  as 
high  as  $1,000  to  the  ton,  it  never  seems  to  have 
paid  much  in  dividends  to  its  stockholders.  How- 
ever, it  paid  good  wages  to  workmen,  and  Ameri- 


MINING  AND  TRANSPORTATION  115 

cans  as  well  as  Mexicans  were  attracted  to  the 
town  until,  in  1858,  it  contained  a  population  of 
about  eight  hundred,  one-sixth  of  the  people  being 
American.  The  town  is  described  as  being  very 
attractive  with  its  peach  orchards  and  pome- 
granates. It  is  also  stated  that  the  only  business 
transacted  in  the  place  outside  of  mining  was  its 
trade  in  mescal,  which  was  very  extensive. 

It  must  have  been  a  lively  as  well  as  interesting 
town.    Poston,  in  writing  of  it,  says: 

"We  had  no  law  but  love,  and  no  occupation 
but  labor;  no  government,  no  taxes,  no  public  debt, 
no  politics.  It  was  a  community  in  a  perfect  state 
of  nature.  As  syndic  under  New  Mexico  I  opened 
a  book  of  records,  performed  the  marriage  cere- 
mony, baptized  the  children  and  granted  divorce." 

In  blithely  thus  assuming  the  prerogatives  of 
Church  and  State,  Poston  was  heaping  up  for  him- 
self and  others  a  vast  amount  of  trouble,  for,  after 
he  had  been  marrying  and  baptizing  for  a  year  or 
two.  Father  Machebeuf,  the  vicar  apostolic  of  New 
Mexico,  came  down,  and,  after  learning  the  con- 
dition of  affairs,  said  that  so  far  as  his  church  was 
concerned  the  actions  of  the  zealous  syndic  were 
wholly  spurious. 

As  Poston  writes,  "It  was  miiy  triste  in  Tubac." 
The  visiting  vicar,  however,  seemed  to  be  equal 
to  the  emergency.  "At  last  I  arranged  with  the 
father  to  give  the  sanction  of  the  church  to  the 
marriages"  (he  says  nothing  whatever  about  the 
divorces),  "but  it  cost  seven  hundred  dollars" 
(which  Poston  thoughtfully  charged  to  the  com- 


116  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

pany  as  urgent  and  necessary  expenses)  "to 
rectify  the  matrimonial  situation  on  the  Santa 
Cruz." 

In  1859,  Tubac — and  incidentally  Arizona, 
though  it  wasn't  Arizona  then — had  its  first  news- 
paper, the  Weekly  Arizonian.  It  had  four  pages, 
four  columns  to  the  page,  and  was  printed  on  a 
hand  press  that  came  from  Cincinnati  via  Guay- 
mas.  The  paper  was  originally  owned  by  the 
Salero  Mining  Company,  and  McClintock  states 
that  Col.  Ed  Cross  appears  to  have  done  much  of 
the  editorial  work,  with  Poston  as  a  contributor. 
McClintock  also  says  that  after  attacking  Sjivester 
Mowry  in  his  columns,  that  fiery  mining  magnate 
challenged  Cross  to  a  duel,  which  was  fought  with 
rifles — without  bloodshed.  Mowry  then  bought 
the  paper  and  the  duelists  became  fast  friends. 

As  a  medium  of  exchange,  because  silver 
bullion  was  too  cumbersome,  the  company  used 
boletas,  which  were  nothing  more  or  less  than 
paper  money  issued  by  themselves,  redeemable 
in  silver.  As  none  of  the  Mexicans  could  read, 
each  boleta  had  a  picture  denoting  its  denomina- 
tion. A  "bit"  was  indicated  by  a  pig,  a  25-cent 
boleta  was  adorned  by  a  calf;  a  rooster  was  worth 
50  cents ;  a  horse,  $1 ;  and  when  the  cashier  handed 
the  brown-faced  laborer  a  ticket  adorned  by  a 
bull,  he  knew  he  could  buy  Maria  or  Sarafina  or 
Dorothea  $5  worth  of  dress  goods,  with  a  cone  of 
penoche  thrown  in  as  pelon,  down  at  the  company 
store. 

The  company  later  erected  at  the  Heintzelman 


MINING  AND  TRANSPORTATION  117 

mine  amalgamating  works  the  machinery  for 
which  it  brought  from  San  Francisco  at  a  cost  of 
$39,000.  In  1859  about  $100,000  worth  of  silver 
was  produced. 

In  addition  to  the  Heintzelman,  many  other 
mines  were  worked  in  the  vicinity,  including  the 
Santa  Rita,  Sopori  and  Arivaca,  from  which,  not- 
withstanding the  frequent  raids  of  the  Apaches, 
considerable  ore  was  taken.  The  Patagonia,  after- 
wards known  as  the  Mowry,  was  also  a  famous 
mine  in  the  same  vicinity,  discovered  in  1858.  It 
was  famous  not  only  for  its  richness,  its  ore  assay- 
ing from  $80  to  $7(^  in  silver  per  ton,  but  for  the 
prominence  of  one  of  its  principal  owners,  Syl- 
vester Mowry,  who  was  one  of  the  most  notable 
citizens  in  the  Gadsden  Strip. 

PLACERS  ON  THE  GILA 

Placers  were  located  on  the  Gila  about  twenty- 
four  miles  above  Fort  Yuma  in  1858.  There  was 
a  rush  of  fortune  hunters  to  the  place  and  soon 
"Gila  City,"  as  they  called  the  mushroom  town, 
had  a  thousand  of  as  disreputable  human  beings 
as  are  often  gathered  together.  Men  are  said  to 
have  panned  out  over  $100  of  gold  in  a  day  and, 
incidentally,  gambled  it  away  the  same  night. 

The  diggings,  however,  soon  gave  out,  and  in  a 
few  years  the  last  inhabitant  had  gone  to  dig  and 
drink  and  gamble  in  some  other  place. 


118  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

AJO   MINES 

The  first  copper  mines  to  be  worked  in  Arizona 
were  probably  at  Ajo,  which  were  located  in  1854 
by  an  exploring  party  sent  out  by  the  Arizona 
Mining  and  Trading  Company  from  San  Francisco, 
who  expected  to  find  rich  property  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  old  Planchas  de  Plata.  Valuable  ore  was 
taken  out  and  shipped  to  San  Francisco,  and 
thirty  tons  of  it,  reshipped  to  Wales,  sold  for  $360 
a  ton. 

OTHER   SETTLEMENTS 

Prof.  W.  Wrightson,  in  1860,  reports  that  Tuma- 
cacori  was  deserted  except  for  three  German 
settlers.  Although  fruit  trees  and  vines  were  still 
growing,  the  church  was  deserted  and  already  fall- 
ing into  decay.  There  remained  a  five-acre  garden 
and  a  plaza  surrounded  by  huts  for  laborers,  form- 
ing a  respectable  village.  Wrightson  also  says 
that  there  were  remains  of  furnaces  with  quan- 
tities of  slag  near  buildings  where  metallurgic 
operations  had  been  carried  on. 

In  '56  Poston  describes  Tucson  as  containing 
from  three  to  four  hundred  Mexicans,  and  about 
thirty  Americans,  two  American  stores,  one  flour 
mill  and  other  business  places — probably  saloons. 
He  reports  the  place  as  being  law-abiding,  quiet 
and  orderly. 

It  was  that  same  year  that  the  United  States 
took  military  possession  of  the  Gadsden  Purchase 


MINING  AND  TRANSPORTATION  119 

and  attempted  to  give  some  protection  to  the  towns 
and  ranchos  south  of  the  Gila,  but  the  protection 
thus  afforded  was  most  inadequate.  Four  com- 
panies of  the  First  Dragoons  were  stationed  at 
Tucson,  where  they  relieved  the  Mexican  garrison 
of  twenty-six  men,  commanded  by  Capt.  Hilario 
Garcia.  Fort  Buchanan  was  established  on  the 
Sbnoita,  twenty-five  miles  east  of  Tubac,  in  1857, 
and  Camp  Breckenridge,  near  the  junction  of  the 
San  Pedro  and  Aravaipa  rivers,  was  garrisoned  in 
1859.  On  account  of  the  depredations  upon  emi- 
grants by  the  Mojave  Indians  in  1857,  Gamp 
Mojave  was  located  on  the  Arizona  side  of  the 
Colorado  River  a  year  later,  a  few  miles  above  the 
present  town  of  Needles. 

The  present  town  of  Yuma  had  its  earliest  set- 
tlers in  1854,  who  named  their  village  Colorado 
City;  later  it  was  changed  to  Arizona  City.  Most 
of  its  buildings  were  destroyed  by  flood  in  1861. 

STAGE   LINES 

The  first  stage  line  to  run  through  Arizona  was 
established  by  the  San  Antonio-San  Diego  Stage 
Company,  which  started  operations  by  sending 
eastward  from  San  Diego  three  coaches  in  Novem- 
ber, 1857. 

Of  the  line,  a  year  later,  we  read  that  passen- 
gers would  have  the  comfort  of  six-mule  coaches, 
except  over  a  hundred  sandy  miles  of  the  Colorado 
desert,  when  the  hardy  traveler  exchanged  his 
seat  for  a  saddle  on  an  equally  hardy  mule.  Pas- 
sengers were  allowed  thirty  pounds  of  baggage. 


120  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

besides  blankets  and  the  very  necessary  firearms. 
For  all  these  luxuries  the  charge  from  San  Anto- 
nio to  Tucson  was  $50;  to  San  Diego,  $200.  An 
armed  escort  accompanied  the  train  through  the 
Indian  country. 

In  1858  this  line  was  succeeded  by  that  of  the 
famous  Butterfield  Company.  Its  route  covered 
twenty-seven  hundred  and  fifty-nine  miles — from 
San  Francisco  to  St.  Louis,  via  Los  Angeles,  Yuma, 
Tucson  and  El  Paso.  Mail  was  carried  twice  a 
week,  for  which  the  company  received  $6,000  a 
year,  with  the  understanding  that  the  trip  was  to 
be  completed  within  twenty-five  days.  The  record 
trip  was  made  when,  by  changing  animals  often 
and  driving  with  breakneck  speed,  a  flier  was  put 
through  in  sixteen  days. 

Later,  under  the  name  of  the  Southern  Over- 
land Mail,  trips  were  made  daily,  and  the  mail  pay 
was  increased  to  $1,300,000. 

At  this  time  the  equipment  consisted  of  more 
than  100  Concord  coaches,  500  horses,  1,000  mules, 
150  drivers  and  over  600  other  employes.  The 
through  fare  was  $100;  letters  were  carried  for  10 
cents  a  half  ounce. 

The  route  followed  the  old  Mormon  Battalion 
road,  and  the  armed  guards  were  necessary,  not 
only  against  Indians,  but  against  Mexican  and 
American  outlaws  as  well.  When  Apaches  were 
especially  hostile,  trips  through  their  country 
would  be  taken  at  night,  for  while  the  Apaches 
would  often  go  out  on  nocturnal  stealing  expedi- 
tions, they  seldom,  for  superstitious  reasons,  made 
attacks  upon  fighting  men  except  by  daylight. 


MINING  AND  TRANSPORTATION  121 

A  typical  tragedy  of  the  road  occurred  when 
Silas  St.  John,  a  noted  Butterfield  mail  rider,  was 
building  the  stage  station  at  Dragoon  Springs, 
September,  1858.  One  night  three  Mexican  labor- 
ers, tempted  by  the  possibilities  of  robbery  of 
arms  and  mules,  attacked  St.  John  and  four  Amer- 
ican companions  as  they  slept.  Three  were  killed 
or  mortally  wounded,  but  St.  John,  immediately 
awakening,  fought  with  such  ferocity  that  the  men 
fled.  St.  John,  however,  was  in  a  desperate  con- 
dition. His  left  arm  had  been  severed  by  a  blow 
from  an  axe,  and  there  was  a  deep  wound  in  his 
hip.  Although  almost  dead  from  pain  and  loss 
of  blood,  for  three  days  and  nights  the  frontiers- 
man defended  himself  and  the  bodies  of  his  com- 
panions from  coyotes  and  buzzards.  On  the  fourth 
day  a  party  of  Americans  arrived  in  time  to  save 
his  life. 

On  December  1,  1858,  a  stage  line  was  estab- 
lished from  Tucson  to  Fort  Buchanan  via  San 
Xavier,  Tubac  and  Calabasas,  the  fare  between  the 
two  termini  being  $12. 

Tucson  merchants  handled  both  eastern  and 
Sonoran  merchandise.  Early  writers  frankly  say 
that  the  thing  that  made  the  trade  with  the  south- 
ern republic  especially  lucrative  was  that  it  was 
so  easy  to  smuggle  the  goods  across  the  line 
through  the  mountains  on  pack  mules.  The  prin- 
cipal imports  were  olives,  oranges,  lemons,  tobacco 
and  Mexican  silver  coins.  On  the  return  trips  the 
pack  trains  carried  dry  goods,  boots,  shoes,  gro- 
ceries and  notions. 


Chapter  IX 

ATTEMPTS    TO   ESTABLISH   TERRI- 
TORIAL GOVERNMENT 

THE  land  acquired  by  the  Gadsden  Purchase 
was  added  to  the  Territory  of  New  Mexico 
on  August  4,  1854,  and  the  succeeding  New 
Mexican  Legislature  included  it  in  Doiia  Ana 
County,  whose  county  seat  was  Mesilla,  on  the  Rio 
Grande.  When  it  is  remembered  that  Mesilla  was 
two  hundred  and  fifty  railroadless  miles  from 
Tucson,  and  Santa  Fe,  the  capital  of  the  terri- 
tory, was  over  five  hundred  miles  distant  by  stage, 
it  is  not  surprising  to  learn  that  the  citizens  in  the 
Santa  Cruz  Valley  had  to  largely  administer  their 
own  laws,  and  yearly  the  necessity  for  some  sort 
of  a  division  of  the  overlarge  Territory  of  New 
Mexico  became  more  apparent.  A  convention  was 
held  in  Tucson  on  August  29,  1856,  which  peti- 
tioned Congress  to  grant  them  the  permission  to 
organize  a  separate  territory.  The  petition  was 
presented  to  the  House  Committee  on  Territories 
by  Nathan  P.  Cook,  who  had  been  chosen  to  rep- 
resent the  hoped-for  commonwealth  in  Congress, 
but  aside  from  the  fact  that  the  committee  recom- 
mended the  organization  of  a  judicial  district  cov- 
ering the  Gadsden  Purchase,  nothing  came  of  it. 
At  the  next  session  of  Congress,  1857-58,  a  bill 

122 


TERRITORIAL  GOVERNMENT  123 

was  introduced  by  Senator  Guin  for  the  organiza- 
tion of  the  Territory  of  Arizona,  which  would 
include  the  land  south  of  the  Gila,  Doiia  Ana 
County,  and  an  extension  eastward  to  Texas.  In 
the  hope  that  this  bill  would  pass,  the  citizens  of 
Tucson  elected  Sylvester  Mowry  as  delegate  to 
Congress,  but  although  Mowry  made  the  trip  to 
Washington,  it  was  a  fruitless  errand,  for  the  bill 
failed  to  pass. 

It  was  about  this  time  that  the  word  "Arizona" 
seems  to  have  been  first  suggested  as  a  name  for 
the  new  southwestern  territory.  Poston,  in  speak- 
ing of  the  matter,  says  that  when  he  was  in  Mesilla 
in  1856  a  petition  to  Congress  was  prepared  asking 
for  the  organization  into  a  separate  territory  of 
the  country  in  the  southern  part  of  New  Mexico 
lying  between  the  Rio  Grande  and  the  Colorado. 
The  document  was  drawn  by  William  Claude 
Jones,  attorney  general  of  New  Mexico,  and  when 
he  came  to  the  name  he  wrote  "Arizona."  It  is 
not  unlikely  that  the  name  then,  as  now,  was  with 
most  people  associated  with  the  two  Spanish  words 
arida  (arid)  and  zona  (zone) — the  dry  land — cer- 
tainly appropriate  enough.  However,  its  deriva- 
tion was  from  something  quite  different.  Dr. 
F.  H.  Hodge,  the  ethnologist,  is  of  the  opinion  that 
it  comes  from  the  Papago,  "ari-zonac,"  meaning 
small  springs,  and  Dr.  R.  H.  Forbes  of  the  Univer- 
sitj'  of  Arizona  adds  the  idea  that  the  Papago 
words  imply  small  but  everflowing  water. 

In  any  event  the  word  was  not  unfamiliar  in 
the  Southwest.    As  we  have  seen,  one  of  the  mines 


124  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

of  the  Planchas  de  Plata,  twenty  miles  southwest 
of  Nogales,  was  called  the  Arizona  or  Arizuma, 
and  within  six  miles  of  the  Planchas  de  Plata  is 
both  a  ranch  and  a  rio  Arizona.  McGlintock,  in 
his  "Arizona  the  Youngest  State,"  mentions  that 
earlier  than  1754  Padre  Ortega  spoke  of  the  "real 
of  Arizona"  being  near  the  Planchas  de  Plata.  In 
other  words,  Arizona  was  the  name  of  the  mining 
camp. 

In  1858  Mowry  was  reelected  to  the  position  of 
congressional  delegate,  and  again  went  on  a  fruit- 
less mission  to  Washington,  where  he  seems  to 
have  had  influence  enough  to  have  had  new  bills 
for  Arizona's  admission  introduced  in  the  winter 
of  1858-59,  which,  like  that  of  earlier  date,  failed 
to  pass.  However,  if  Mowry  was  unable  to  get  a 
seat  in  congressional  halls  it  was  not  the  fault  of 
his  constituents,  for  again,  on  June  19, 1859,  a  con- 
vention held  at  Mesilla  followed  the  established 
precedent  of  nominating  the  popular  miner  as 
delegate.  When  the  convention  adjourned  at 
Mesilla  its  members  traveled  on  to  Tucson,  where 
another  convention  was  in  session,  and  the  two 
bodies  joined  their  voices  in  the  request  for  a 
separate  territory. 

The  most  elaborate  plan  to  form  a  new  terri- 
tory was  made  at  Tucson  in  April,  1860,  when  a 
convention  was  held  at  which  were  represented 
Tucson,  Arivaca,  Tubac,  Sonoita,  Gila  City  and 
Calabasas  in  the  present  Arizona  and  many  towns 
that  now  belong  to  southern  New  Mexico.  The 
land  to  be  embraced  in  the  new  territory  was  a 


TERRITORIAL  GOVERNMENT  125 

long,  narrow  strip  one  hundred  and  forty  miles 
from  north  to  south,  and  seven  hundred  miles  from 
east  to  west,  lying  just  north  of  Mexico  and  run- 
ning from  Texas  to  the  Colorado.  North  and 
south  lines  were  to  divide  the  section  into  four 
counties,  which,  beginning  at  the  east,  were  to  be 
named  Rio  Grande,  Mesilla,  Elwell  and  Castle 
Dome.  To  prove  to  Congress  that  they  were 
really  in  earnest  the  convention  even  elected  a 
governor — Dr.  L.  S.  Owings  of  Mesilla.  That  fall 
Senator  Green  of  Missouri  tried  to  get  a  hearing 
for  a  bill  to  provide  temporary  government  for 
the  Territory  of  Arizona,  but  was  unsuccessful,  as 
was  Senator  Jefferson  Davis  with  a  similar  bill. 
At  the  election  that  fall  Mowry,  who  seems  to  have 
had  enough  of  empty  honors,  was  out  of  it,  and 
"Ned"  McGowan  fell  heir  to  the  elusive  congres- 
sional toga. 

As  most  of  the  settlers  in  the  Gadsden  Purchase 
were  from  the  South  and  accustomed  to  slavery, 
it  is  not  strange  perhaps  that  the  institution  of 
peonage,  which  the  Americans  inherited  from  the 
Mexicans,  did  not  seem  repugnant  to  them.  In 
any  event,  its  protection  was  provided  for  in  a 
statutory  law  up  to  1867,  when  it  was  abolished  by 
Congress. 

The  only  difference  between  peonage  and  negro 
slavery  was  that  a  peon  could  not  be  sold  from  one 
master  to  another.  The  padron  would  pay  this 
servant  about  $5  a  month,  out  of  which  he  had  to 
support  himself  and  his  family.  Naturally,  as 
this  was  impossible,  he  would  go  in  debt  buying 


126  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

provisions  and  the  like  at  the  padron's  store, 
where  he  was  given  ample  credit.  The  peonage 
act,  which  was  dignified  with  the  title,  "Law  Regu- 
lating Contracts  and  Servants,"  provided  that  if  a 
servant  did  not  wish  to  stay  in  the  service  of  his 
master,  he  could  leave  by  paying  what  he  owed 
him;  but  as  the  peon  could  not  do  this,  he  and  his 
family  remained  in  servitude  all  their  lives. 
Parents  had  the  right  to  bind  their  children  out  as 
peons,  thus  forcing  slavery  upon  them.  Should  a 
peon  try  to  escape,  a  warrant  of  debt  served  by  an 
officer  was  all  that  was  necessary  to  bring  him 
back.  In  some  ways  the  peon's  lot  was  worse 
than  that  of  the  negro  slave.  When  he  was  too 
old  to  work  the  master  was  under  no  obligations 
to  keep  him,  and  might  turn  him  out  to  drift  or 
starve. 

Still,  in  spite  of  peonage  and  the  fact  that  the 
organic  act  of  New  Mexico  (embracing  present 
Arizona),  provided  that  New  Mexico  might 
eventually  be  admitted  either  as  a  slave  or  a  free 
state  as  its  citizens  should  decide,  the  Mexicans 
living  within  the  territory  owned  no  slaves,  nor 
wanted  any.  Possibly  the  laboring  class  was  too 
familiar  with  the  burdens  of  peonage  not  to  sym- 
pathize with  the  slaves  rather  than  with  the  mas- 
ters. When  the  test  of  the  Civil  War  came  the 
citizens  of  New  Mexico,  especially  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  state,  cast  their  lots  almost  unani- 
mously with  the  Unionists;  not  that  they  loved 
the  North  so  much  perhaps,  but  that  they  hated 
Texas  more;  and  to  them  Texas  meant  the  South. 


i 


Chaptee  X 

FILIBUSTERS  IN  MEXICO— WAR 
DEPARTMENT  CAMELS 

DURING  the  years  immediately  following  the 
Mexican  War  a  number  of  filibustering 
expeditions  made  their  way  from  the 
United  States  into  northern  Mexico.  That  which 
was  most  particularly  connected  with  Arizona 
was  the  ill-starred  expedition  of  Henry  A.  Crabb 
in  1857.  In  that  year  Ignacio  Pesquiera  was  the 
claimant  for  the  governorship  of  Sonora  against 
Manuel  Gandara,  who  held  the  office.  It  is  stated 
that  Pesquiera  offered  to  give  Crabb  a  substantial 
strip  of  territory  along  the  Arizona  line  if  he  would 
bring  down  one  thousand  Americans  to  help  him 
win  the  governorship. 

With  an  advance  party  of  a  hundred  men, 
recruited  in  California,  he  crossed  Arizona  from 
Yuma  into  Sonora.  By  this  time,  however,  Pes- 
quiera had  won  his  contest  and,  to  save  his  face, 
repudiated  his  contract  and  called  upon  the  people 
of  Sonora  to  repel  the  invaders.  "Let  us  fly  then," 
he  said,  "to  chastise  with  all  the  fury  that  can 
scarcely  be  contained  in  a  heart  swelling  with 
resentment  against  coercion,  the  savage  filibuster 
who  has  dared  in  an  unhappy  hour  to  tread  our 
nation's  soil,  and  to  arouse,  insensate,  our  wrath." 

When  besieged  in  Caborca,  Crabb,  after  being 

127 


128  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

given  a  solemn  promise  by  Pesquiera  that  if  he 
and  his  party  gave  themselves  up  they  would  be 
transported  safely  across  the  line,  surrendered  his 
command,  whereupon  the  Mexicans  shot  them, 
dividing  them  into  parties  of  ten.  The  head  of 
Crabb,  it  is  said,  was  pickled  in  mescal  and  sent 
to  Mexico  City  as  proof  of  Pesquiera's  incorrupt- 
ible patriotism. 

Previously,  learning  of  Crabb's  peril,  Granville 
Oury  and  Charles  Tozer  led  a  party  of  twenty- 
seven  men  from  Tucson  for  their  relief,  but  before 
they  could  reach  Caborca  Crabb  and  his  associates 
had  been  executed,  and  it  was  only  after  a  serious 
battle  with  fifty  Mexican  lancers  that  the  rescuers, 
with  a  loss  of  four  of  their  men,  were  able  to 
reach  the  border. 

WAR  DEPARTMENT  CAMELS 

After  this  bloody  business  of  treachery  and 
murder,  for  very  contrast's  sake  let  us  turn  to  the 
pleasant  comedy  of  the  United  States  soldier  and 
his  camels. 

It  seems  that  it  was  the  secretary  of  war,  Jeffer- 
son Davis,  who  first  conceived  the  idea.  The 
nation  had  just  acquired  a  desert,  and,  as  every 
one  knows,  as  salt  goes  with  celery,  so  camels  go 
with  hot,  sandy  plains. 

The  fitness  of  the  camel  for  the  life  in  our 
Southwest  was  nothing  less  than  marvelous. 
Camels  could  go  seven  days  without  water.  A 
camel  could  carry  a  ton  of  merchandise  between 


FILIBUSTERS   IN  MEXICO  129 

his  humps  and  never  shed  a  tear.  A  camel  could 
travel  farther  in  a  day  than  a  horse,  and  if,  when 
after  Indians  an  ambush  should  be  attempted,  the 
sight  of  the  beasts  alone  would  be  enough  to  drive 
the  Indians  terror-stricken  from  the  field. 

It  was  on  May  16,  1855,  that  the  War  Depart- 
ment sent  Maj.  Henry  C.  Wayne  to  the  Levant 
a-camel  hunting.  His  companion  in  the  enterprise 
was  to  be  Lieut.  D.  D.  Porter,  who  was  to  proceed 
with  the  naval  store  ship  "Supply"  and  join  Wayne 
at  Smyrna. 

The  camel  buyer  hastened  on  his  quest,  and 
soon  acquired  not  only  a  wide  and  varied  knowl- 
edge of  bactrians  and  dromedaries,  but  also  wis- 
dom concerning  the  wiles  of  glib-tongued,  dark- 
skinned  confidence  men,  who,  with  tears  in  their 
eyes  over  parting  with  the  thoroughbreds  of  their 
herds,  would  sell  them  mangy,  moth-eaten,  worth- 
less beasts  whose  age  could  be  comparable  with 
nothing  less  venerable  than  the  Sphinx  or  the 
Pyramids. 

However,  the  Americans  learned  the  worthless- 
ness  of  the  animals,  sold  them  for  what  they  could 
and  did  purchase  some  really  valuable  camels. 
Such  connoisseurs  did  Major  Wayne  and  his  asso- 
ciates become  that,  when  at  Cairo,  the  viceroy  of 
Egypt  off'ered  to  give  six  of  his  choicest  drome- 
daries as  a  gift  to  the  United  States,  but  delivered 
three  hump-backed  scarecrows,  the  Americans 
firml}-^  but  politely  declined  the  gift. 

Finally,  at  Smj^rna,  the  major  not  only  com- 
pleted the  purchase  of  thirty-four  fine  animals, 


130  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

but  also  acquired  two  expert  camel  drivers,  Hi 
Jolly  (Hadji  Ali)  and  Greek  George. 

The  camels  made  a  safe  voyage,  and  when 
they  were  unloaded  on  the  Texas  coast,  May  16, 
1856,  not  only  was  the  original  purchase  intact, 
but  there  were  as  well  several  baby  camels  which 
had  been  born  en  route,  and  the  herd  was  driven 
into  the  corrals  in  Green  Valley,  Texas,  forty-one 
strong. 

After  the  camels  were  drafted  into  actual 
service  a  variety  of  reports  was  given  as  to  their 
behavior  and  value.  Lieutenant  Beale,  who,  as 
we  have  seen,  used  them  in  his  wagon-road  sur- 
vey, was  enthusiastic  in  their  praise.  They  actually 
carried  a  load  of  from  seven  hundred  to  a  thou- 
sand pounds  each,  and  although  of  uncertain  tem- 
per when  misused,  were  docile  and  patient  under 
proper  treatment  and  not  at  all  particular  as  to 
food,  preferring  brush  to  grass,  and  delighting  in 
the  mesquite  beans  of  the  Arizona  desert. 

Other  officers  were  not  so  enthusiastic.  It  soon 
developed  that  Hi  Jolly  and  Greek  George  were  the 
only  ones  who  could  keep  seated  when  a  camel 
really  got  to  going,  without  being  seasick  or  lashed 
to  the  saddle.  The  horses,  until  accustomed  to  the 
beasts,  would  stampede  at  the  sight  of  them,  and 
the  soldiers  assigned  to  duty  as  camel-valets  devel- 
oped such  a  deep-rooted  aversion  for  their  charges 
that  more  than  one  calmly  cut  the  tie  ropes  and 
reported  that,  having  become  unmanageable,  their 
beasts  had  escaped  to  the  desert. 

However,  from  Lieutenant  Beale's  experience. 


FILIBUSTERS  IN  MEXICO  131 

the  probabilities  are  that  if  the  men  could  have 
been  taught  to  handle  them  properly  the  beasts 
would  have  performed  useful  work.  Unfortu- 
nately, at  the  beginning  of  the  Civil  War  the  ex- 
periment was  stopped,  the  camels  then  in  Arizona 
were  sent  to  Drum  Barracks,  near  Los  Angeles, 
and  used  occasionally  upon  trips  to  Fort  Yuma. 

In  1866,  a  Frenchman  bought  the  herd  and  took 
it  to  Nevada,  hoping  to  use  the  camels  as  pack 
animals,  but  the  feet  of  the  beasts  were  unsuited 
to  the  stony  mountain  trails,  and  as  before  they 
stampeded  every  freight  outfit  they  met. 

The  unfortunate  Frenchman  took  the  animals 
to  Yuma,  where  he  suddenly  died,  and  the  beasts 
were  turned  loose  on  the  desert.  From  then  on 
they  became  nomadic  pariahs,  bugbears  to  freight- 
ers and  prospectors.  Picture  an  Overland  Jack 
driving  from  his  seat  on  the  "nigh"  wheeler  six- 
teen shave-tail  mules  when  suddenly,  out  from  an 
arroyo  in  front  of  him,  would  appear  these  na- 
tives of  the  Sahara.  After  the  shouting  and  the 
tumult  had  died  down,  Overland  Jack,  with  the  aid 
of  his  Mexican  swamper,  would  gather  his  mules 
retrieved  from  miles  around,  get  his  harness 
patched  up,  and  when  he  got  back  to  his  wagons 
and  had  time  to  really  talk  about  it,  what  he 
would  say  about  camels  would  be  wholly  unprint- 
able. Also,  camel  would  be  equally  unpopular 
when  the  beast  would  walk  through  the  corral 
fence  of  the  keeper  of  a  desert  well  and  eat  a  hun- 
dred pounds  of  barlej'  worth  five  cents  a  pound.  So 
the  freighter  and  the  other  desert  travelers  shot 


132  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

bactrians  and  dromedaries  on  sight,  but  for  many 
years  a  remnant,  grown  wary  through  experience, 
remained. 

About  these  survivors  all  sorts  of  weird  tales 
were  told.  There  was  the  story  of  the  camel  who 
saved  the  life  of  an  escaped  convict  by  leading 
him  to  the  Tenijas  Altas  Springs;  there  was  the 
story  of  the  big  red  bactrian  who  haunted  the 
west  bank  of  the  Colorado,  and  when  the  moon 
was  full  would  carry  on  his  back  a  skeleton  lashed 
to  the  saddle;  and  finally  the  yarn  of  a  ghost  of 
a  crazy  prospector  who  drove  back  and  forth  on 
the  road  to  Ajo  three  equally  ghostly  dromedaries 
with  packs  laden  with  gold  nuggets. 

The  camel  drivers  remained  in  the  Southwest 
the  rest  of  their  lives.  Greek  George,  some  time 
in  the  '70s,  killed  a  man  in  New  Mexico,  and, 
rather  than  be  captured,  committed  suicide.  Hi 
Jolly  for  years  followed  the  life  of  a  prospector^ 
outlived  most  of  his  charges,  and,  a  grizzled  old 
man,  died  in  1902,  at  Tyson's  Wells,  Arizona. 


Chapter  XI 
THE   VENGEANCE   OF   COCHISE 

IT  will  be  remembered  that  in  telling  of  the 
capture  of  Inez  Gonzales,  mention  was  made 
of  other  women  who  were  stolen  by  her  cap- 
tors— who  were  Pinalino  Apaches — at  the  same 
time.  One  of  these  women  was  Jesus  Salvador, 
the  maid  of  Mercedes  Pacheco,  Inez's  aunt.  Jesus 
was  compelled  by  one  of  the  Pinalinos  to  become 
his  wife,  and,  as  a  result  of  this  union,  there  was 
born  to  the  woman  a  child  who  was  afterwards 
known  as  Mickey  Free. 

Following  several  years  of  slavery  and  suffer- 
ing, the  captive,  taking  her  child  with  her,  escaped 
to  the  friendly  Pimas,  who  treated  her  with  great 
kindness,  escorting  her  to  Mexican  friends  at  Tuc- 
son. Later,  in  1860,  when  Mickey  Free  was  six 
years  old,  she  became  the  housekeeper  of  one  John 
Ward,  who  lived  in  the  Valley  of  the  Sonoita, 
about  twelve  miles  below  Fort  Buchanan.  One 
morning  in  October,  1860,  when  Ward  was  away 
from  home,  while  the  boy  was  trying  to  catch  a 
burro,  his  pursuit  led  him  into  the  arms  of  a  dozen 
Coyotero  Apaches,  who,  planning  to  raid  the  ranch, 
were  hiding  in  the  rocks.  Now,  learning  that  there 
were  no  men  about  the  place,  the  Apaches  boldly 
broke  open  the  corral,  stole  horses  and  oxen,  and, 

133 


134  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

in  spite  of  the  mother's  screams,  rode  away  with 
the  boy.  When  Ward  returned,  he  took  up  the 
trail  of  the  Indians  and  followed  it  to  the  San 
Pedro  River.  As  the  Ghiracahuas,  under  Cochise, 
lived  in  the  Dragoon  Mountains  east  of  the  San 
Pedro,  Ward  reached  the  hasty  conclusion  that  the 
depredation  had  been  committed  by  them,  and, 
riding  post  haste  to  Fort  Buchanan,  reported  the 
outrage  to  the  commanding  officer,  Colonel  Mor- 
rison. 

Cochise  at  that  time  was  perhaps  the  most 
prominent  Apache  chief  in  Arizona.  For  the  ten 
years  following  1846,  as  an  ally  of  Mangas  Colo- 
rado, he  had  waged  intermittent  warfare  against 
the  advance  of  the  soldiers,  but  in  1856,  apparently 
convinced  of  the  futility  of  attempting  further 
combat  with  the  United  States,  announced  himself 
as  the  white  man's  friend,  and  later  made  a  peace 
compact  with  the  officials  of  the  Butterfield  stage 
line  allowing  them  to  build  a  station  in  the  heart  of 
his  country,  and  supplying  them  with  hay. 

Colonel  Morrison  detailed  Lieut.  George  N.  Bas- 
com,  fresh  from  West  Point,  to  take  twelve  men, 
including  Sergt.  R.  F.  Bernard,  to  visit  Apache 
Pass,  see  Cochise  and  try  to  induce  him  to  under- 
take the  return  of  the  boy.  Never  was  a  selection 
more  unfortunately  made.  Bascom  was  every- 
thing a  man  should  not  be  to  successfully  perform 
such  a  mission.  Naturally  overbearing  and  con- 
ceited, he  had  no  knowledge  whatever  of  Indian 
diplomacy,  nor  was  he  even  endowed  with  good 


THE  VENGEANCE  OF  COCHISE  135 

common  sense,  and  regarded  the  powerful  Cochise 
as  simply  a  dirty  Indian  to  be  treated  summarily 
and  with  contempt.  When  Bascom  and  his  men 
reached  the  pass  Cochise  met  him  unhesitatingly, 
and  when  Bascom  bluntly  announced  that  he 
wanted  Cochise  to  at  once  give  back  the  stolen 
boy,  the  chief  truthfully  said  that  he  knew  nothing 
about  the  child,  but  would  make  an  immediate 
investigation,  and  if  any  of  his  people  had  the 
boy  he  would  see  that  he  was  returned.  This  did 
not  at  all  come  up  to  what  Bascom  wanted.  He 
had  come  to  recover  the  child,  and  he  had  no 
notion  of  allowing  a  lot  of  filthy  Indians  to  either 
deceive  him  or  put  him  off.  He  gave  an  ultima- 
tum that  Cochise  should  make  his  investigation 
immediately  and  report  to  him  at  a  place  two 
miles  from  the  stage  station  where  he  planned  to 
make  his  camp. 

The  next  day,  in  all  good  faith,  Cochise  came 
to  the  camp,  bringing  with  him  his  brother  and 
two  nephews,  and  told  Bascom  that  the  abductors 
evidently  belonged  to  another  tribe.  He  further 
said  he  would  be  glad  to  help  locate  them.  How- 
ever, while  he  was  still  talking,  the  lieutenant 
abruptly  announced  that  they  were  his  prisoners, 
and  had  them  put  under  guard  in  a  Sibley  tent. 
Not  contenting  himself  with  the  folly  of  having 
arrested  the  most  warlike  chief  in  Arizona  with- 
out cause,  he  completed  his  asininity  by  placing 
guards  over  them  who  had  no  cartridges  in  their 
rifles. 

Every  Chiricahua  carries  a  reserve  knife  in  an 


136  THE   STORY   OF   ARIZONA 

under  belt  of  his  scanty  costume.  As  soon  as  it 
was  dark,  Cochise  cut  his  way  out.  With  fixed 
bayonets,  the  guards  were  able  to  stop  all  the  In- 
dians but  Cochise  who,  with  his  great  strength, 
thrust  back  guard  and  rifle,  and  though  he  had 
received  a  wound  in  the  knee,  escaped  to  the 
rocks  with  the  Apache  war-cry  on  his  lips. 

Bascom,  fearing  an  attack,  returned  to  the  stage 
station,  and  on  the  way  picked  up  three  more 
Apaches  who  were  returning  from  Mexico.  Soon 
after  daylight  Cochise  appeared  just  out  of  rifle 
range  and  haughtily  demanded  his  relatives,  which 
request  Bascom  refused.  The  chieftain  disap- 
peared and  later  that  day  captured  two  Americans 
named  Jordan  and  Lyons,  and  afterwards  took  the 
station-keeper  Wallace,  who  was  on  most  friendly 
terms  with  both  Cochise  and  his  warriors.  The 
Indians  led  their  captives  within  hailing  distance, 
where  the  white  men  advised  Bascom  that  the 
Indians  would  exchange  them  for  the  Apache  cap- 
tives, and  had  threatened  them  with  torture  if  the 
exchange  were  not  granted.  To  this  request,  ac- 
companied by  an  appeal  from  Sergeant  Bernard, 
who  appreciated  how  relentlessly  Cochise  would 
carry  out  his  threat,  with  unbelievable  cold-blood- 
edness this  monstrous  lieutenant  refused,  and 
entrenched  himself  and  his  men  behind  the  rocky 
wall  of  the  stage  station.  At  a  tense  moment 
Lyons  suddenly  broke  from  his  captors,  and,  run- 
ning to  the  wall  to  join  the  Americans,  was  shot 
by  one  of  the  soldiers  who  thought  him  an  attack- 
ing Indian.     To  add  to  this  horror,  a  mounted 


THE  VENGEANCE  OF  COCHISE  137 

Apache  suddenly  cast  his  riata  over  Wallace's 
head,  and,  beating  his  pony  into  a  dead  run, 
dragged  this  unfortunate  person  to  death. 

At  last  thoroughly  frightened,  Bascom  led  a 
retreat.  As  the  soldiers  passed  through  Sulphur 
Springs  Valley  they  saw  before  them,  hanging  to  a 
tree,  the  ghastly  bodies  of  the  three  Americans. 
To  show  that  a  white  man  and  an  oflicer  could 
be  as  cold-blooded  as  an  Apache,  Bascom  then 
hanged  his  six  prisoners,  and  in  that  act  precipi- 
tated the  bloodiest  Indian  war  of  Arizona's  his- 
tory. 

That  night  at  the  Chiricahua's  war-dance,  fol- 
lowing an  ancient  tribal  custom,  Cochise  threw 
down  his  red  turban  with  vows  of  vengeance 
against  the  whites,  and  from  peak  to  peak,  along 
the  mountain  range  through  the  darkness  shone 
signal  fires  summoning  the  warriors  to  a  bloody 
campaign  of  revenge. 

Only  too  well  did  Cochise  keep  his  promise. 
Ranches  and  mines  were  raided,  houses  were 
burned,  prospectors  and  settlers  were  tortured  and 
murdered.  A  hundred  stories  could  be  told  of 
heroic  defenses  made  by  settlers  against  the  red 
demons — tales  like  that  of  the  six  men  of  "Free" 
Thompson's  party  who,  armed  with  modern  rifles 
and  plenty  of  ammunition,  withstood  four  hundred 
warriors  under  Cochise  and  Mangas  Colorado  for 
three  days.  But  though  they  killed  one  hundred 
and  thirty-five  of  the  Indians,  they  themselves 
were  finally  slain.  Still  the  raids  kept  on  until 
practically  every  mine   and  rancho  on   the  San 


138  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Pedro,  the  Sonoita  and  the  Santa  Cruz  was  left 
deserted  and  desolate,  a  feeding  ground  for  the 
coyote  and  buzzard. 

The  boy,  Mickey  Free,  whose  being  caused  all 
this  unnecessary  bloodshed,  grew  up  among  the 
Coyoteros  as  untruthful  and  unprincipled  and  as 
worthless  a  vagabond  as  is  often  seen.  With  long 
tawny  hair,  his  appearance  was  as  repulsive  as 
his  character  was  unlovely.  Though  utterly  un- 
principled, he  had  wonderful  ability  in  following 
a  trail  and,  when  grown,  was  occasionally  used  as 
a  scout  by  the  soldiers.  He  died  on  the  Fort 
Apache  Reservation,  in  1913,  at  the  age  of  seventy- 
seven. 


Chapter  XII 
THE  CIVIL  WAR 

THE  few  Americans  who  had  settled  in  the 
Gadsden  Purchase  prior  to  the  Civil  War, 
being  for  the  most  part  from  the  South, 
were  not  only  ready  but  eager  to  make  their  sec- 
tion a  part  of  the  Confederacy.  While  the  pos- 
session of  the  Southwestern  deserts,  with  the 
pestiferous  Apaches  thrown  in  as  an  inalienable 
hereditament,  would  be  of  no  vast  value  to  the 
South,  yet  the  possession  of  that  amount  of  terri- 
tory might  be  impressive  to  European  nations,  so 
it  seems  to  have  been  considered  worth  while  as 
a  "pickup."  Besides,  the  country  itself  would 
have  some  value  as  a  highway  over  which  troops 
might  march  to  California. 

Some  time  in  1861  a  convention  was  held  at 
Tucson  declaring  Arizona  Confederate  country; 
in  August,  Granville  H.  Oury  was  elected  by  citi- 
zens of  Tucson  as  delegate  to  the  Southern  Con- 
gress. In  March,  1861,  a  convention  was  also  held 
in  Mesilla,  which  called  itself  a  "Convention  of  the 
people  of  Arizona,"  presumably,  like  the  Tucson 
meeting,  representing  the  southern  part  of  New 
Mexico,  from  its  eastern  border  to  the  Rio  Colo- 
rado. One  of  the  Mesilla  resolutions  was:  "We 
will  not  recognize  the  present  black  Republican 

13d 


140  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

administration,  and  we  will  resist  any  officers  ap- 
pointed to  the  Territory  by  said  administration 
with  whatever  means  in  our  power." 

Most  of  the  army  officers,  like  a  majority  of 
the  settlers,  were  Southerners  and  took  the  first 
opportunity  of  leaving  their  commands  to  join  the? 
Confederate  army,  though  the  enlisted  men,  on 
the  contrary,  for  the  most  part  remained  firm  in 
their  allegiance  to  the  Union. 

The  military  posts  at  Breckenridge,  Mojave 
and  Buchanan  were  all  abandoned  early  in  the 
war,  the  order  for  such  action  coming  to  Buchanan 
from  Maj.  Gen.  Isaac  Lynde  in  June,  1861.  It  is 
said  that  there  was  a  large  amount  of  stores  at 
Buchanan  which  had  been  ordered  there  earlier 
by  the  secretary  of  war  in  the  expectation  that 
afterwards  it  would  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  new 
Confederacy,  which  it  was  felt  would  inevitably 
be  formed.  However,  be  that  as  it  may,  the  offi- 
cers in  charge  of  the  post.  Lieutenant  Moore  of  the 
dragoons  and  Lieutenant  Lord  of  the  infantry, 
left  little  of  value  behind.  The  field  pieces  were 
spiked  and  buried,  and  all  supplies  that  could  not 
be  carried  away  were  wrecked  or  burned.  The 
troops  were  marched  to  Fort  Craig,  New  Mexico, 
where  they  joined  the  Union  forces. 

Naturally,  the  settlers  were  very  bitter  over  the 
abandonment  of  the  post,  and  charged  the  local 
officers  with  cowardice  and  perfidy,  but  whatever 
odium  was  attached  to  their  leaving  the  settlers 
without  military  protection  against  the  Indians 
belonged  to  commanders  higher  up. 


THE  CIVIL  WAR  141 

The  Apaches  watched  the  soldiers  march  away 
with  grTm  complacency,  believing  that  it  was  a 
sign  of  recognition  that  the  Indians  had  proven 
themselves  too  strong  to  subdue,  and  therefore 
the  whites  had  finally  abandoned  the  country. 
Immediately  they  started  in  to  finish  their  harvest 
of  pillage  and  murder  against  the  settlers.  One 
of  their  first  acts  was  to  go  to  the  Heintzelman 
mines  where,  in  spite  of  the  miners'  guns,  in  a 
night  attack,  they  succeeded  in  running  off  a  hun- 
dred and  forty-six  horses  and  mules.  At  Tubac, 
so  Hinton  tells  us,  a  score  or  so  of  Americans 
withstood  two  hundred  attacking  Chiricahuas 
under  Cochise  throughout  one  entire  day,  and  that 
night,  shielded  by  darkness,  an  express  rider  got 
through  the  Indian  line  and  reached  Tucson  in 
safety.  Under  Grant  Oury  a  relief  party  was  or- 
ganized, and  twenty-five  determined,  well-armed 
men  rode  swiftly  to  Tubac,  where,  joining  the 
beleaguered  miners,  they  not  only  drove  off  the 
Apaches,  but  had  the  opportunity  a  little  later  of 
withstanding  a  party  of  Mexican  bandits  who 
came  up  from  Sonora.  The  Mexicans  fell  back 
upon  Tumacacori,  where  they  murdered  an  old 
rancher  whom  even  the  Apaches  had  spared. 

Having  good  cause  to  fear  that  the  Chiricahuas 
would  soon  return  in  increased  numbers,  all  of 
the  whites,  not  only  from  Tubac,  but  from  all  of 
the  mines  and  ranches  in  the  southern  part  of 
present  Arizona,  made  hasty  flight  to  Tucson, 
while  the  Mexicans  who  did  not  accompany  them 
fled  to  the  settlements  of  Sonora. 


142  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Meanwhile  in  the  Mesilla  Valley,  Maj.  Isaac 
Lynde,  the  same  man  who  had  written  the  order  to 
abandon  Fort  Buchanan,  commander  of  the  Union 
garrison  at  Fort  Fillmore,  with  five  hundred  well 
disciplined  men,  allowed  himself  to  be  defeated 
by  two  hundred  and  fifty  untrained  and  poorly 
armed  Texans,  commanded  by  Lieut.  Col.  John  R. 
Baylor.  Lynde  withdrew  his  troops,  and  when 
Baylor  overtook  him,  cravenly  surrendered  his  en- 
tire command.  It  was  a  disgraceful  affair.  Later, 
for  this  cowardice  or  treachery,  he  was  dismissed 
from  the  army. 

Baylor  reached  Mesilla  in  July,  1861,  and  in  a 
proclamation  on  August  1st  organized  the  Terri- 
tory of  Arizona,  which  had  its  north  boundary 
on  the  thirty-fourth  parallel  (which  runs  just 
north  of  the  present  town  of  Wickenburg)  and 
extended  entirely  across  present  Arizona  and  New 
Mexico.  He  named  Mesilla  as  the  capital,  with 
himself  as  military  governor.  Thereafter  the  Con- 
federate Congress  passed  an  enabling  act  for  the 
Territory,  which  act  was  approved  by  Jefferson 
Davis,  January  18,  1862,  and  on  February  14th  of 
the  same  year  he  issued  the  forming  proclamation. 
Slavery,  of  course,  was  to  be  protected. 

Early  in  1862  a  military  organization,  styled  the 
Arizona  Guards,  with  headquarters  at  Mesilla,  was 
mustered  in  for  the  stated  purpose  of  protecting 
the  settlers  against  the  Indians.  In  March  of  the 
same  year  Baylor  wrote  a  letter  to  Captain  Helm, 
commander,  which,  as  a  military  order,  it  may 
well  be  hoped,  is  unique  in  American  army  annals, 


THE  CIVIL  WAR  143 

and  which  made  Baylor  eligible  to  a  place  on  the 
rolls  of  infamy  along  with  Johnson  and  Glanton. 

"5ir; — I  learn  from  Lieutenant  Colonel  Jackson 
that  the  Indians  have  been  at  your  post  for  the 
purpose  of  making  a  treaty.  The  Congress  of  the 
Confederate  States  has  passed  a  law  declaring 
extermination  of  all  hostile  Indians.  You  will 
therefore  use  all  possible  means  to  persuade  the 
Apaches,  or  any  other  tribes,  to  come  in  for  mak- 
ing peace;  and  when  you  get  them  together,  kill 
all  the  grown  Indians  and  make  the  children  pris- 
oners, and  sell  them  to  defray  the  expenses  of 
killing  the  Indians. 

"Buy  whisky  and  such  other  goods  as  may  be 
necessary  for  the  Indians,  and  I  will  order  vouch- 
ers given  to  cover  the  amount  expended. 

"Leave  nothing  undone  to  assure  success  and 
have  a  sufficient  number  of  men  around  to  allow 
no  Indians  to  escape.  Say  nothing  about  your 
orders  till  the  time  arrives,  and  be  cautious  how 
you  let  the  Mexicans  know  it.  If  you  can't  trust 
them,  send  to  Captain  Aycock  at  this  place  and 
he  will  send  you  thirty  men  from  his  company. 
Better  use  the  Mexicans,  if  they  can  be  trusted,  as 
bringing  troops  from  here  might  excite  suspicion 
with  the  Indians. 

"To  your  judgment  I  entrust  this  important 
matter,  and  look  for  success  against  these  cursed 
pests  who  have  already  murdered  over  one  hun- 
dred men  in  this  Territory." 

Later,  Baylor,  in  one  of  his  campaigns  against 
the  Indians,  is  said  to  have  poisoned  a  sack  of  flour 


144  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

which  killed  fifty  or  sixty  natives.  When  Presi- 
dent Davis  learned  of  this  episode  he  promptly 
deprived  him  of  his  commission  in  the  Confed- 
erate army  and  his  title  of  governor  of  Arizona. 

Early  in  1862  a  troop  of  Texan  cavalry,  num- 
bering between  one  and  two  hundred,  in  command 
of  Gapt.  S.  Hunter,  had  started  west,  reaching 
Tucson  February  28th,  where  it  was  given  a  most 
cordial  welcome  by  the  inhabitants. 

The  Confederates  seem  to  have  had  some 
hopes  that  Sonora  would  forswear  her  allegiance 
to  the  Mexican  Republic  and  join  the  new  cause, 
and  soon  after  Hunter  arrived  at  Tucson,  Colonel 
Reilly,  with  an  escort  of  twenty  men  under  Lieu- 
tenant Tevis,  was  sent  with  a  letter  from  General 
Sibley  to  Governor  Pesquiera  at  Hermosillo;  but 
other  than  arranging  for  the  purchase  of  supplies, 
nothing  came  of  it. 

On  March  3d,  Hunter,  with  the  rest  of  his  com- 
mand, proceeded  to  the  Pima  villages,  where  he 
confiscated  fifteen  hundred  sacks  of  wheat,  which 
a  trader,  A.  M.  White,  who  operated  a  flour  mill 
in  the  village,  had  bought  from  the  Indians  for  the 
use  of  the  Union  soldiers  then  at  Fort  Yuma.  In- 
stead of  destroying  the  wheat.  Hunter  returned  it 
to  the  Indians.  It  was  reported,  but  erroneously, 
however,  that  a  large  wagon  train  was  on  its  way 
eastward  for  the  wheat,  and  while  waiting  for  its 
arrival  Hunter's  pickets  noticed,  through  the 
chaparral,  the  approach  of  a  squad  of  mounted 
Unionists — nine  members  of  the  First  California 
Cavalry,  under  Captain  McCleave. 


THE  CIVIL  WAR  145 

The  Confederate  pickets  surprised  and  cap- 
tured them  without  firing  a  gun,  and  McCleave, 
together  with  the  trader  White,  was  sent  in  charge 
of  Lieut.  Jack  Swilling  to  Baylor. 

Hunter  then  dispatched  a  squad  of  men  west- 
ward to  destroy  supplies  of  hay  that  had  been 
deposited  at  several  stations  on  the  old  Butterfield 
stage  line  for  use  of  the  Union  army  advancing 
from  California.  This  squad  reached  a  point  fifty 
miles  from  the  Colorado,  the  farthest  point  west- 
ward penetrated  by  the  Confederacy. 

At  this  time  the  Union  forces  in  southern  Cali- 
fornia consisted  for  the  most  part  of  volunteers 
under  the  command  of  Col.  James  H.  Carleton  of 
the  First  California  Cavalry.  The  main  body  of 
this  army  had  left  Los  Angeles  and  concentrated 
at  Fort  Yuma  in  April,  where  it  consisted  of  ten 
companies  of  First  California  Infantry  directly 
commanded  by  Colonel  Carleton,  five  troops  of 
First  California  Cavalry  under  Lieut.  Col.  E.  E. 
Eyre,  and  field  artillery  with  four  brass  field  pieces 
under  Lieut.  John  B.  Shinn. 

Following  the  McCleave  party,  a  stronger  force 
was  sent  east  from  Yuma  consisting  of  one  com- 
pany of  infantry,  a  part  of  a  company  of  cavalry 
and  two  small  howitzers,  with  Capt.  William  P. 
Calloway  in  command.  The  party  passed  the 
Pima  villages,  and,  on  April  15,  1862,  they  were 
apprised  by  their  Indian  scouts  that  a  force  of 
Confederate  cavalrj'  was  just  ahead  of  them,  which 
was  Hunter's  command  returning  to  Tucson.  A 
detachment  of  cavalry  under  Lieutenant  Barrett 

10 


146  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

was  ordered  to  make  a  wide  detour  and  strike  the 
enemy  on  the  flank,  by  which  time  it  was  thought 
the  main  column  would  be  there  to  make  a  simul- 
taneous attack  from  the  rear.  However,  Barrett 
and  his  men  traveled  faster  than  was  anticipated, 
and  reaching  its  objective  at  Picacho  Pass,  made 
a  sharp  attack  before  the  supporting  column  ar- 
rived. In  the  engagement  Barrett  and  two  of  his 
men  were  killed  and  three  wounded.  Two  of  the 
Confederates  also  were  wounded  and  three  taken 
prisoners.  This  skirmish  was  the  only  engage- 
ment of  any  kind  between  the  Federals  and  the 
Confederates  in  what  is  now  Arizona. 

Although  the  force  led  by  Calloway  was  much 
superior  to  Hunter's,  he  fell  back  to  Stanwick  Stage 
Station,  eighty  miles  from  Yuma,  where  he  joined 
the  advancing  California  column  under  Lieutenant 
Colonel  West.  When  this  army  reached  the  Pima 
villages,  defensive  earthworks  were  thrown  up 
around  White's  mill,  and,  in  honor  of  the  officer 
who  had  been  killed  at  Picacho,  named  Fort  Bar- 
rett. A  force  under  Lieutenant  Colonel  Eyre  was 
sent  to  occupy  Fort  Breckenridge,  and  the  main 
column  under  Lieutenant  Colonel  West,  moved 
forward  to  Tucson,  where  it  arrived  April  20th. 

Buchanan  was  also  occupied  and  the  name 
Breckenridge  changed  to  Fort  Stanford. 

Before  the  Unionists  had  reached  Tucson, 
Hunter  had  already  passed  through  the  town  and 
was  on  his  way  to  Mesilla,  together  with  a  number 
of  the  most  prominent  Tucson  Confederates. 
When  the  command  reached  Dragoon  Springs  it 


THE  CIVIL  WAR  147 

was  set  upon  by  a  large  force  of  Apaches,  who  evi- 
dently thought  that  the  soldiers  must  be  given 
another  decisive  lesson.  Four  of  Hunter's  men 
were  killed  and  thirty-five  mules  and  twenty  horses 
lost.  Soon  after  this  Carleton  arrived  at  Tucson, 
where  he  established  his  headquarters.  En  route 
he  stopped  at  the  Pima  villages  and  was  so  im- 
pressed by  the  appearance  of  the  Indians  that  he 
recommended  that  a  hundred  muskets  be  given 
them  as  a  defense  against  the  Apaches. 

Tucson  at  that  time  was  the  rendezvous  for  as 
malodorous  a  lot  of  criminals  and  desperadoes — 
fugitives  from  both  Texas  and  California — as  is 
often  found  in  one  place.  Carleton  at  once  pro- 
claimed martial  law,  and  announced  himself  mili- 
tary governor.  Then  he  proceeded  to  clean  up  the 
town,  so,  as  he  said,  "When  a  man  does  have  his 
throat  cut,  his  house  robbed  or  his  field  ravaged, 
he  may  at  least  have  the  consolation  of  knowing 
that  there  is  some  law  that  will  reach  him  who 
did  the  injury."  As  a  start  he  sent  nine  of  the  "cut- 
throats, gamblers  and  loafers"  to  Yuma  for  im- 
prisonment. This  action  won  him  much  praise, 
more  than  another  official  act  which  he  performed 
soon  afterwards,  when  he  caused  the  arrest  for 
treason  of  Sylvester  Mowr}%  principal  owner  of 
the  Mowry  mine  and  delegate  to  the  Confederate 
Congress.  The  arrest  was  made  upon  informa- 
tion furnished  by  the  metallurgist  at  the  Mowry 
mine.  Mowry  was  brought  to  Tucson  and  tried 
by  court  martial,  headed  by  Lieutenant  Colonel 
West.    He  was  found  guilty  of  having  had  trea- 


148  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

sonable  correspondence  with  well  known  Seces- 
sionists, and  was  taken  to  Yuma  for  confinement. 
The  imprisonment  seems  to  have  been  only  nomi- 
nal, and  after  six  months,  his  case  being  investi- 
gated by  General  Wright,  commander  of  the 
Pacific  Department,  he  was  released. 

As  a  sidelight  on  Tucson  life  during  those 
days  we  learn  from  Carleton's  orders  that  "every 
gambling  house  in  Tucson  must  pay  a  tax  of  a 
hundred  dollars  a  month  and  every  keeper  of  a 
bar  must  pay  a  similar  amount." 

In  June,  Carleton  was  advanced  to  the  rank  of 
brigadier  general.  That  same  month  he  started 
Lieutenant  Colonel  Eyre  eastward  wdth  a  hundred 
and  forty  cavalrymen  to  join  General  Canby's 
Union  forces  in  New  Mexico.  At  Dragoon  Springs 
they  were  met  by  about  a  hundred  Apaches  who 
insisted  upon  a  peace  talk  and  tobacco.  While 
that  was  going  on,  three  soldiers  were  ambushed 
and  killed.  The  murderers,  though  pursued,  were 
not  captured. 

On  July  20th,  under  Carleton's  orders.  Colonel 
West,  with  five  companies  of  infantry,  started  for 
New  Mexico,  and  two  days  later  was  followed  by 
Lieutenant  Shinn's  battery  with  two  companies  of 
infantry,  and,  after  another  two  days'  wait,  four 
more  companies  proceeded  eastward  under  Lieu- 
tenant Colonel  Rigg.  As  a  vanguard  went  Capt. 
Thomas  Roberts  with  Company  E,  First  Califor- 
nia Infantry,  who,  on  reaching  Apache  Pass,  was 
intercepted  by  Chiricahuas,  whereupon  followed 
the  most  serious  battle  ever  fought  in  Arizona 
between  Americans  and  Indians. 


THE  CIVIL  WAR  149 

Cochise,  with  rancor  still  eating  into  his  heart 
from  Lieutenant  Bascom's  insults,  had  never 
stopped  his  bloody  business  of  revenge,  and  when 
Mangas  Colorado  wanted  his  help  to  drive  out  a 
hundred  and  forty  miners  from  Pinos  Altos, 
Cochise  gave  his  consent  provisional  upon  the  great 
Mimbres  coming  over  to  help  him  wipe  out  the 
American  soldiers. 

Mangas  had  fully  as  bitter  hatred  against  the 
whites  as  Cochise,  for  the  miners  at  Santa  Rita  del 
Cobre,  discovering  the  chief  in  a  plot  to  kill  them, 
had  tied  him  to  a  tree  and  whipped  him.  As  a 
result  of  all  this  there  were  five  hundred  Chirica- 
huas  and  two  hundred  Mimbres  waiting  at  Apache 
Pass  to  dispute  the  passage  of  the  American  troops. 

Captain  Roberts,  wholly  unsuspecting  an  at- 
tack, entered  the  defile  without  making  any  pre- 
liminary reconnoissance  whatsoever,  and  was  two- 
thirds  of  the  way  through  when  a  terrific  volley  of 
musket  fire  was  directed  at  his  men  from  Apaches 
hidden  behind  rocks  and  trees  on  the  towering 
canyon  sides.  Cremony  says,  "Every  tree  con- 
cealed an  armed  warrior,  and  each  warrior  boasted 
his  rifle,  six-shooter  and  knife."  The  soldiers  fired 
in  return,  but  in  their  exposed  position,  shooting 
at  an  enemy  whom  they  could  not  see,  made  re- 
treat the  only  alternative  of  extermination.  The 
troops  retired  in  good  order  and  re-formed  at  the 
mouth  of  the  canyon. 

As  the  men  had  marched  forty  miles  without 
water,  it  was  absolutely  necessary  that  they  reach 
the  spring  in  the  heart  of  the  pass.    There  was  an 


150  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

overland  stage  station  house  made  of  stone  about 
six  hundred  yards  from  the  spring,  and  this  Cap- 
tain Roberts  made  his  objective.  On  the  high  hills 
overlooking  the  spring  the  Indians  had  built  stone 
breastworks  from  which  they  kept  up  an  ever- 
increasing  fire  at  the  again  advancing  soldiers. 
After  some  bungling  on  the  part  of  the  artillery- 
men, the  howitzers  were  put  into  action.  The 
Apaches  were  quite  accustomed  to  rifles  by  this 
time,  but  these  belching  wagons  that  hurled  great 
fire  balls  which,  exploding,  could  kill  a  dozen  men, 
were  too  much  for  their  nerves.  They  abandoned 
their  fortifications  and  fled  pellmell  in  all  direc- 
tions.   To  again  quote  Cremony: 

"In  this  fight  Roberts  had  two  men  killed  and 
three  men  wounded,  and  I  afterwards  learned 
from  a  prominent  Apache  who  was  present  in  the 
engagement  that  sixty-three  warriors  were  killed 
outright  by  the  shells,  while  only  three  perished 
from  musketry  fire.  The  Indian  said,  'We  would 
have  done  well  enough  if  you  hadn't  fired  wagons 
at  us.' " 

The  next  day,  with  Cremony's  cavalry  added  to 
the  white  men's  force,  the  Apaches  again  sought 
to  engage  the  soldiers,  but  after  the  howitzers 
once  more  shelled  the  hills,  Cremony's  rough  riders 
charged  straight  at  them,  and  a  few  minutes  later 
the  landscape  was  covered  with  fleeing,  thoroughly 
frightened  Indians.  This  time  the  Chiricahuas  had 
had  enough  and  did  not  return. 

Two  miles  beyond  Apache  Springs  the  soldiers 
found   the  remains   of  nine  miners  from  Pinos 


THE  CIVIL  WAR  151 

Altos  whom  the  Apaches  had  murdered,  one  of 
which  had  been  burned  at  the  stake. 

It  is  said  that  at  this  time,  for  fourteen  miles  on 
either  side  of  the  pass,  the  bones  of  slain  oxen, 
horses  and  mules  and  the  wreckage  of  wagons 
were  so  thick  that  one  could  almost  travel  the 
entire  distance  without  setting  foot  upon  the 
ground,  and  the  graves  that  lined  the  road  gave 
mute  testimony  as  to  what  had  become  of  the 
people  to  whom  the  caravans  belonged. 

When  he  learned  of  the  battle,  General  Carle- 
ton  established  a  military'  post  in  Apache  Pass 
which  he  called  Fort  Bowie,  and  garrisoned  it 
with  a  hundred  men  of  the  Fifth  Infantry  and 
thirteen  men  of  the  First  CavalrJ^ 

In  September,  1862,  Carleton  succeeded  General 
Canby  as  commander  of  the  Department  of  New 
Mexico,  and  Maj.  Davis  Fergusson  was  put  in 
charge  of  the  soldiers  that  were  left  in  Arizona. 


Chapter  XIII 

PROSPECTING   PARTIES    IN   CIVIL 
WAR  TIMES 

THE  principal  occupations  of  the  citizens  of 
Arizona  during  Civil  War  days  were  fight- 
ing, mining  and  gambling.  Sometimes 
these  vocations  were  conducted  separately,  usually 
the  three  went  together.  With  hostile  Apaches 
scattered  from  the  eastern  border  nearly  to  the 
Colorado,  prospecting,  if  engaged  in  by  small 
groups  of  men,  was  apt  to  be  an  invitation  to  sud- 
den death;  nevertheless  there  were  bold  spirits 
who  were  so  insistent  in  their  quest  for  the  Golden 
Fleece  that  even  the  menace  of  the  Tontos  or 
Coyoteros  could  not  deter  them.  The  most  im- 
portant of  the  mining  expeditions  which  pros- 
pected in  Arizona  during  this  period  was  known  as 
the  Walker  party  and  was  notable  not  only  for 
the  fact  that  its  members  were  the  first  men  to 
systematically  prospect  for  gold  in  the  central  part 
of  the  Territory,  but  also  for  the  reason  that  their 
explorations  had  an  important  bearing  upon  the 
location  of  Arizona's  first  capital. 

In  1862  "Capt."  Joseph  Walker  came  to  the 
Southwest  from  Colorado  at  the  head  of  a  party  of 
forty  adventurers.  The  men  were  well  armed,  and 
although  they  stated  that  their  one  purpose  in  the 

152 


PROSPECTING  PARTIES  153 

country  was  to  search  for  valuable  minerals,  the 
Federal  authorities  watched  them  closely,  evi- 
dently fearing  that  they  were  really  Secessionists 
who  were  planning  some  coup  to  aid  the  Confed- 
erate cause. 

The  story  of  their  long  journey  through  regions 
heretofore  unknown,  the  hardships  they  endured, 
the  many  perils  they  overcame  is  too  extended  to 
be  recorded  here.  Space,  however,  must  be 
claimed  to  mention  the  capture  of  Mangas  Colo- 
rado through  their  aid  and  the  death  of  the  great 
chief  at  their  camp.  There  have  been  many  con- 
flicting stories  told  of  the  event,  but  the  narrative 
of  D.  E.  Conner,  the  historian  of  the  expedition, 
bears  the  marks  of  truth.  When  in  February, 
1863,  they  were  camped  at  Fort  McLean,  fifteen 
miles  southwest  of  Silver  City,  Walker  was  told 
by  a  Mexican  that  Mangas  Colorado,  with  five  hun- 
dred Apaches,  was  on  the  west  side  of  the  Cordil- 
leras not  far  from  Finos  Altos.  The  old  chief 
and  his  warriors  had  been  dogging  the  steps  of  the 
part}'  all  winter,  ambushing  them  at  water  holes, 
and  otherwise  harassing  them,  so  Walker  boldly 
decided  to  try  to  capture  Mangas  and  hold  him 
as  a  guarantee  of  good  behavior  by  his  followers. 
A  half  a  company  of  California  volunteers,  with 
Capt.  Ed  Shirland,  chanced  to  visit  the  Walker 
camp  that  da3%  and  when  Shirland  heard  of  the 
plan  to  get  Mangas  he  promptly  agreed  to  take  an 
active  part. 

In  order  to  avoid  having  their  intention  con- 
veyed to  the  old  chief  by  smoke  signals  from 


154  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Apaches  near  the  camp,  about  half  of  the  Walker 
party  and  half  of  the  soldiers  slipped  away  on 
their  mission  before  daylight.  At  Pinos  Altos, 
just  before  the  summit  was  reached,  Walker 
picked  up  the  ubiquitous  Jack  Swilling — whom  the 
party  had  chanced  upon  at  Mesilla — and  put  him 
in  charge  of  an  advanced  guard,  while  he  with  the 
rest  of  his  men  and  the  soldiers  were  to  hide  them- 
selves in  the  old  buildings  of  the  camp  and  the 
chaparral.  Swilling,  with  his  handful  of  men, 
walked  up  the  trail  leading  to  the  summit.  To 
quote  Conner: 

**A11  was  silent;  not  a  human  being  was  seen. 
Suddenly  Swilling  issued  a  warwhoop  that  might 
have  made  an  Apache  ashamed  of  himself.  There 
was  a  short  delay  when  Mangas,  a  tremendously 
big  man,  with  over  a  dozen  Indians  for  a  body 
guard,  was  seen  in  the  distance  walking  towards 
us.  .  .  .  Jack  left  us  and  walked  to  meet 
Mangas.  .  .  .  Swilling,  though  six  feet  tall, 
looked  like  a  boy  beside  the  chief."  At  a  sign 
from  Swilling,  his  companions  covered  Mangas 
and  his  bodyguard  with  their  rifles.  The  other 
Indians  were  sent  back,  but  the  chief  was  forced 
to  accompany  his  captors.  As  they  led  him  over 
the  brow  of  the  hill,  the  soldiers  suddenly  came 
out  from  their  hiding  places,  "disgusting  Mangas 
beyond  measure." 

Although  momentarily  expecting  pursuit,  the 
party  got  the  old  chief  over  the  fifteen  miles  to 
the  Walker  camp  without  molestation.  The 
prisoner  was  dressed  in  a  cheap,  checkered  shirt 


PROSPECTING  PARTIES  155 

and  ordinary  overalls  cut  off  at  the  knees.  In  dig- 
nified silence  he  strode  among  his  white  captors, 
towering  head  and  shoulders  above  them.  That 
night  the  chief  slept  on  the  ground  near  the  camp 
fire.  Conner,  who  was  on  guard,  noticed,  about 
nine  o'clock,  that  the  soldiers  were  "doing  some- 
thing to  Mangas,"  but  quit  when  Conner  came  to 
the  fire.  Afterwards,  observing  them  from  the 
darkness,  Conner  saw  them  heat  their  bayonets 
and  apply  them  to  the  Indian's  feet  and  legs.  At 
this  the  old  chief  rose  on  his  elbow,  crying  out 
that  he  was  no  child,  to  be  played  with.  There- 
upon the  two  soldiers  fired  at  the  chief  with  their 
Minie  muskets,  and  followed  that  with  two  more 
shots  from  their  navy  revolvers.  "Mangas  fell 
back  into  the  same  position  he  had  occupied  and 
never  moved." 

From  the  camp  where  the  great  chief  was  slain 
the  Walker  party  journeyed  over  the  mountains 
prospecting  en  route.  Ultimately  they  reached 
Tucson,  from  which  point  they  went,  first  to  the 
Pima  villages  and  then  north,  through  mountain- 
ous country,  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Hassayampa, 
near  the  present  town  of  Prescott,  where  they  lo- 
cated, thoroughly  prospecting  the  hills  and  val- 
leys of  the  region,  finding  gold  in  many  places. 

Another  group  of  miners,  which  about  that 
same  time  entered  central  Arizona,  was  known  as 
the  Weaver  party,  from  Pauline  Weaver,  one  of  its 
members.  The  party,  which  seems  to  have  con- 
sisted of  eleven  men,  left  Fort  Yuma  early  in 
April  of  1863,  journeying  up  the  Colorado  to  Bill 


156  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Williams  Fork  and  continuing  along  that  stream 
fifty  miles  or  so ;  then,  leaving  the  fork,  it  reached 
what  is  now  known  as  Antelope  Mountain,  and, 
after  finding  gold  in  a  creek  bed,  continued  pros- 
pecting up  to  the  top  of  the  peak,  where  it  found 
the  richest  surface  diggings  ever  discovered  in 
the  State.  On  one  day  three  of  the  men,  scratch- 
ing around  in  the  gravel  with  their  butcher  knives 
— as  they  tell  it — obtained  over  $1,800  in  nuggets. 

Word  of  the  strike  was  carried  to  Maricopa 
Wells,  a  station  on  the  old  Butterfield  stage  line, 
and  there  was  an  immediate  rush  of  miners  to  the 
Weaver  district,  as  it  was  then  called,  who  later 
mingled  with  members  of  the  Walker  party  and 
shared  their  prosperity. 

At  Lynx  Creek  one  nugget  was  found  which  was 
worth  $900.  Rich  finds  were  also  made  on  the 
Hassayampa  and  Granite  Creek.  Later,  placer 
mining  gave  way  to  the  working  of  lodes,  a  de- 
tailed account  of  which  will  be  given  in  a  subse- 
quent chapter. 


Chapter  XIV 

ARIZONA  A  POLITICAL  ENTITY 

THERE  is  no  more  romantic  story  in  all  of 
Arizona's  history  than  is  the  one  which 
tells  of  its  birth  as  one  of  the  common- 
wealths of  the  nation.  After  many  petitions  by 
mass  meetings  and  conventions  and  many  a  per- 
sonal appeal  from  such  energetic  citizens  as 
Poston  and  Mowry  for  separate  government, 
finally,  in  the  winter  of  1862-63,  Congress  passed 
the  enabling  act  of  the  Territory  of  Arizona,  which 
was  approved  by  President  Lincoln,  February  24, 
1863. 

This,  it  will  be  remembered,  was  not  the  first 
time  that  territorial  honors  were  conferred  upon 
the  people  of  the  section,  for  on  February  14,  1862, 
Jefferson  Davis,  by  proclamation,  had  done  his 
best  to  give  territorial  being  to  Arizona,  but  where 
the  Arizona  formed  by  the  Confederacy  included 
the  southern  portion  of  both  New  Mexico  and 
Arizona,  the  Arizona  of  the  Federal  Government, 
save  that  it  included  a  section  of  lower  Nevada, 
had  boundaries  much  the  same  as  they  are  now. 

There  were  cogent  reasons  given  at  the  time 
why,  after  its  many  years  of  procrastination.  Con- 
gress suddenly  awoke  to  this  section's  needs.  One 
was  that  Arizona  could  be  made  into  a  strong 
Union  State,  which  would  be  valuable  to  have 

167 


158  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

lying  between  Texas  and  California;  another,  that 
every  territory  must  have  a  set  of  officials  ap- 
pointed by  the  President,  and  it  happened  at  this 
time  that  there  were  a  number  of  "good  men  and 
true"  in  Washington  who  were  not  at  all  averse 
to  accepting  just  the  kind  of  offices  the  forming 
of  the  territory  would  create.  As  one  of  these  ter- 
ritorial offices  was  destined  to  be  filled  by  none 
other  than  our  old  friend  Colonel  Poston,  his 
account  of  the  way  it  all  happened  may  be  not 
without  interest. 

"At  a  meeting  in  Congress  in  December,  1862, 
I  returned  to  Washington,  made  friends  with  Lin- 
coln, and  proposed  the  organization  of  the  Terri- 
tory of  Arizona.  Oury  .  .  .  was  in  Richmond 
cooling  his  heels  in  the  ante-chamber  of  the  Con- 
federate Congress  without  gaining  admission  as 
delegate  from  Arizona.  Mowry  was  a  prisoner  in 
Yuma,  cooling  his  head  from  the  political  fever 
which  afflicted  it.  .  .  .  There  was  no  other  per- 
son in  Washington,  save  General  Heintzelman, 
who  took  any  interest  in  Arizona  affairs.  .  .  . 
Many  didn't  even  know  where  Arizona  was. 

"Old  Ben  Wade,  chairman  of  the  Committee  on 
Territories,  took  a  lively  and  bold  interest  in  the 
organization  of  the  Territory,  and  Ashley,  chair- 
man of  the  committee  in  the  House,  told  me  how 
to  accomplish  the  object.  He  said  there  were  a 
number  of  the  members  of  the  expiring  Congress 
who  had  been  defeated  in  their  own  districts  for 
the  next  term  and  wanted  to  go  west  and  offer 
their  political  services  to  the  'galoots,'  and  if  they 


ARIZONA  A  POLITICAL  ENTITY  159 

could  be  grouped  and  a  satisfactory  slate  made, 
they  would  have  influence  enough  to  carry  the  bill 
through  Congress.  Consequently  an  'oyster  sup- 
per' was  organized,  to  which  the  lame  ducks  were 
invited,  and  then  and  there  the  Territory  was 
virtually  organized.  So  the  slate  was  made  and 
the  bargain  concluded,  but  towards  the  last  it 
occurred  to  my  obfusticated  brain  that  my  name 
did  not  appear  on  the  slate.  ...  I  exclaimed, 
'Gentlemen,  what  is  to  become  of  me?'  Gurley 
politely  replied,  'Oh,  we'll  make  you  Indian  agent.' 
So  the  bill  passed  and  Lincoln  signed  all  the  com- 
missions, and  the  oyster  supper  was  paid  for,  and 
we  were  all  happy  and  Arizona  was  launched  upon 
the  political  sea." 

Poston  was  not  a  man  to  let  undue  accuracy  of 
detail  spoil  a  good  story.  If  there  were  any  lame 
ducks  among  the  officials  at  the  time  they  were 
appointed,  an  Arizona  environment  certainly  had 
a  remedial  and  restorative  effect  upon  their  in- 
firmities, for,  once  entered  upon  their  duties,  they 
proved  to  be  competent  and  conscientious  officials. 
The  original  appointments,  made  in  March,  1863, 
were  as  follows:  Governor,  John  A.  Gurley  of 
Ohio;  secretary,  Richard  C.  McCormick  of  New 
York;  chief  justice,  John  N.  Goodwin  of  Maine; 
associate  justices,  William  T.  Howell  of  Michigan 
and  Joseph  P.  Allyn  of  Connecticut;  district  attor- 
ney, John  Titus  of  Pennsylvania;  marshal,  Milton 
B.  Duffield  of  California;  Indian  affairs,  Charles 
D.  Poston  of  Arizona. 

However,   many    delays   occurred   before   the 


160  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

forming  of  the  commonwealth  actually  took  place. 
On  August  18th,  after  a  lingering  illness,  Governor 
Gurley  died  and  John  N.  Goodwin  was  appointed 
in  his  place,  and  the  chief  justiceship  was  given  to 
William  F.  Turner  of  Iowa.  Then  Titus  resigned 
and  Almon  Gage  of  New  York  was  made  district 
attorney.  Levi  Bashford  was  appointed  surveyor 
general. 

Poston  journeyed  westward  by  the  way  of  San 
Francisco,  where  he  was  joined  by  Duffield,  and 
the  two,  accompanied  by  J.  Ross  Brown,  a  noted 
California  writer,  made  a  tour  of  the  Territory 
before  assuming  their  duties.  Most  of  the  other 
officials  traveled  overland  by  Government  trans- 
portation from  Fort  Leavenworth.  A  most  re- 
markable thing  about  this  official  journey  was  that 
when  the  party  started  it  had  no  definite  destina- 
tion. Just  where  the  new  capital  was  to  be  located 
had  been  left  to  the  territorial  officials,  and  they 
were  withholding  their  decision. 

Tucson,  as  the  most  important  town  of  the 
section,  was  believed  to  be  wholly  under  Confed- 
erate influence  and  therefore  undesirable.  By  the 
time  the  officials  arrived  at  Santa  Fe  the  reports 
of  the  gold  strike  in  central  Arizona  reached  them. 
The  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the  gold  camps  was 
described  as  not  only  abounding  in  natural  re- 
sources, but  full  of  native  beauty  and  with  a  splen- 
did climate. 

Many  of  the  settlers  that  were  occupying  the 
region  were  former  members  of  the  California 
Column,  and  therefore  Unionists.    So  the  officials 


ARIZONA  A  POLITICAL  ENTITY  161 

decided,  at  that  time,  to  found  the  capital  some- 
where in  this  new  section  where  it  might  be  wholly 
American  and  with  a  citizenry  loyal  to  Wash- 
ington. 

Accompanied  by  a  military  escort,  the  party 
resumed  its  westward  way  through  north  central 
New  Mexico,  and,  on  December  27,  1863,  passed 
what  they  believed  to  be  the  one  hundred  and 
ninth  degree  of  longitude,  which  was  to  be  ap- 
proximately the  eastern  border  of  Arizona.  How- 
ever, to  be  on  the  safe  side,  the  party  traveled  two 
days  more,  and,  at  Navajo  Springs,  in  what  is  now 
Apache  County,  made  camp. 

Here  among  the  cedars,  with  the  ground  snow- 
clad,  the  flag  was  raised  and  cheered,  and  the  offi- 
cials sworn  in  by  the  chief  justice.  Secretary  Mc- 
Cormick  then  made  a  brief  address  and  the  gov- 
ernor read  his  proclamation,  fixing  the  seat  of 
government  for  the  Territory,  for  the  time  being, 
at  Fort  Whipple,  which,  on  December  21,  1863, 
had  been  established  in  the  Little  Chino  Valley. 
By  January  22d  the  officials  had  all  reached  the 
post  and  entered  upon  their  duties.  On  May  18th 
the  capital  was  moved  to  a  site  on  Granite  Creek, 
where,  under  towering  pines  and  in  sight  of  pic- 
turesque rolling  hills  and  rugged  mountains,  the 
first  rude  administrative  buildings  were  erected. 

The  settlement  which  grew  up  around  the  capi- 
tol  was  organized  into  a  town  on  May  30th  at  a 
well  attended  meeting,  and  was  named  for  the 
celebrated  historian,  Prescott. 

The  first  election  held  in  Arizona  after  its  or- 

11 


162  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

ganization,  July  18,  1864,  was  for  delegate  to 
Congress  and  for  members  to  the  Territorial  Legis- 
lature. Poston,  who  was  well  known  in  the  south- 
ern part  of  the  Territory  as  well  as  in  the  north, 
was  elected  to  represent  the  new  commonwealth 
at  Washington.  The  total  votes  cast  were  as  fol- 
lows: C.  D.  Poston,  Unionist,  514;  Charles  Leib, 
Unionist,  226;  William  D.  Brandshaw,  Democrat, 
66;  William  J.  Berry,  48;  S.  Adams,  31. 

It  is  interesting  to  note  that  Poston's  bill  for 
mileage  in  journeying  to  the  nation's  capitol  was 
$7,000.  He  went  by  the  way  of  Panama,  probably 
for  the  reason  that  there  was  no  passenger  service 
at  the  time  around  The  Horn. 

The  nine  councilmen  elected  included  one  law- 
yer, three  farmers,  one  merchant,  one  printer  and 
three  miners. 

In  the  "House"  there  were  one  lawyer,  one 
farmer,  two  merchants,  seven  miners,  one  sur- 
veyor, one  wheelwright,  two  mining  engineers,  one 
carpenter,  one  hotel  keeper  and  one  physician. 

When  the  Legislature  convened  Coles  Bash- 
ford,  a  Tucson  attorney,  was  chosen  president  of 
the  Council,  and  W.  Claude  Jones,  also  a  member 
of  Tucson's  legal  fraternity,  elected  speaker  of  the 
House. 

It  is  not  within  the  scope  of  this  volume,  even 
if  space  permitted,  to  make  an  extensive  record 
of  Arizona's  political  history,  but  simply  mention 
such  events  as  have  special  prominence  by  reason 
of  their  essential  bearing  on  the  development  of 
the  commonwealth  or  from  their  picturesqueness. 


ARIZONA  A  POLITICAL  ENTITY  163 

so,  while  we  refrain  from  mentioning  the  names  of 
all  of  the  distinguished  gentlemen  who  served  their 
State  and  nation  in  early  Arizona  days,  we  shall 
not  attempt  to  apologize  for  devoting  a  paragraph 
to  a  story  that  illustrates  the  manners  and  minds 
of  the  State's  pioneers.  The  anecdote  was  told  by 
Judge  Ed  Wells  of  Prescott:  "A  sufficient  state 
of  cleanliness  and  the  possession  of  garments  of 
such  purity  as  would  be  suitable  and  creditable 
to  the  high  station  he  sought  were  the  only  requi- 
sites necessary"  (to  a  candidate  for  office).  "One 
of  the  chosen  candidates"  (for  the  Legislature) 
"was  possessed  of  an  ample  fund  of  the  former 
qualifications,  but  was  found  largely  wanting  in 
the  latter,  and  it  was  discovered  that  his  opponents 
in  other  localities  had  woven  his  shortcomings  into 
political  capital.  A  public  meeting  was  called, 
.  .  .  our  candidate  was  taken  to  the  creek,  vig- 
orously scrubbed,  gorgeously  robed  with  articles 
donated  for  the  occasion,  put  astride  a  mule  and 
sent  forth  to  battle.  He  was  elected  by  a  large 
majority  and  served  with  distinction  during  the 
whole  term." 

The  Territory  was  sadly  in  need  of  more  and 
better  roads,  and  the  first  Legislature  gave  licenses 
to  men  to  construct  toll  roads  and  franchises  to' 
build  ferries  on  the  Colorado  River.  Endeavors 
were  even  made  to  induce  railroad  building. 

Naturally,  the  Apache  menace  was  ever  in  the 
minds  of  the  Legislature,  and  they  authorized  the 
issue  of  $100,000  in  bonds  to  equip  a  body  of  mili- 
tia to  combat  the  savages.     Unfortunately,  how- 


164  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

ever,  the  commission  appointed  to  sell  the  bonds 
was  unable  to  do  so.  The  Territory  finally  secured 
four  companies  of  local  volunteers,  as  is  shown  in 
another  chapter. 

Arizona's  first  code  of  laws  was  prepared  by 
Judge  William  T.  Howell,  who  was  appointed  as 
a  commissioner  for  that  purpose  by  the  governor, 
which  code  was  adopted  by  the  Legislature.  The 
only  school  within  the  Territory  at  that  time  was 
one  at  the  San  Xavier  Mission,  where  Padre  Mes- 
saya  instructed  classes  of  Mexicans  and  Papagos. 
Recognizing  the  need  of  more  schools,  the  Legis- 
lature recommended  that  appropriations  be  given 
to  towns  for  maintaining  schools  where  the  num- 
ber of  children  would  warrant. 

The  Territory  was  divided  into  four  counties, 
all  of  which  were  given  Indian  names — Pima, 
Yuma,  Mojave  and  Yavapai. 

Judge  E.  W.  Wells  of  Prescott  states  that  in 
1863,  as  the  necessary  machinery  for  levying  and 
collecting  taxes  had  not  as  yet  been  put  into  mo- 
tion, that  each  resident  of  the  Prescott  district 
placed  a  valuation  on  his  property  and  paid  taxes 
on  the  amount  so  assessed. 

Attempts  were  made  by  the  first  Legislature  to 
remove  the  capital,  first  to  La  Paz,  then  to  Walnut 
Grove,  and  finally  to  a  city — ^yet  to  be  built — to  be 
called  "Aztlan,"  at  a  point  within  ten  miles  of  the 
junction  of  the  Rio  Verde  and  Rio  Salado.  These 
various  motions  were  defeated  only  by  small 
majorities. 

The  second  election  within  the  new  Territory 


ARIZONA  A  POLITICAL  ENTITY  165 

was  held  in  September,  1864,  at  which  ballots  were 
again  cast  for  members  of  the  Territorial  Legis- 
lature and  delegate  to  Congress.  The  congres- 
sional candidates  were  as  follows :  J.  N.  Goodwin, 
C.  D.  Poston  and  Joseph  P.  AUyn,  all  Unionists. 
Goodwin  was  elected  on  a  total  vote  of  707,  against 
260  for  Poston  and  381  for  Allyn.  It  is  notable 
that  while  Tucson  was  largely  populated  by  south- 
ern sympathizers,  that  there  was  no  Democratic 
congressional  candidate  nominated.  Indeed,  party 
politics  continued  to  occupy  a  subordinate  place 
in  Arizona  elections  down  to  the  '80s.  The  place 
of  Goodwin,  who  resigned  as  governor  to  become 
delegate,  was  filled  by  the  former  secretary  of  the 
Territory,  Richard  McCormick,  who  thereafter  was 
Arizona's  chief  executive  to  1869. 

The  second  Territorial  Legislature,  which  con- 
vened December  6,  1865,  was  made  up  of  eight 
councilmen  and  ten  representatives. 

In  his  message  to  the  Legislature,  Acting  Gov- 
ernor McCormick  (he  had  not  yet  received  his 
formal  appointment)  urged  the  legislators  to  en- 
courage the  occupation  of  agriculture,  and  re- 
ferred to  the  successful  work  of  farmers  upon  the 
Verde,  and  at  Walnut  Grove  and  upon  the  Has- 
sayampa.  It  did  not  seem  to  occur  to  him  that 
farming  could  be  successfully  prosecuted  on  the 
deserts  to  the  south. 

Governor  McCormick  also  suggested  that  it 
would  be  very  desirable  for  Arizona  to  acquire  the 
port  of  Libertad  on  the  Gulf  of  California,  and 
mentions  that  Prescott  was  the  only  one  of  the 


166  TH^  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

four  towns  that  had  taken  advantage  of  the  act 
of  the  first  Legislature  appropriating  moneys  for 
schools.  The  towns  that  had  not  lived  up  to  their 
opportunities  were  Tucson,  La  Paz  and  Mojave. 

He  enjoined  the  strictest  economy  upon  the  law- 
makers and  called  attention  to  the  fact  that  the 
Howell  code  made  provision  that,  whenever  the 
discoverer  of  a  mine  located  a  claim  for  himself, 
he  was  required  to  locate  an  adjoining  claim  for 
the  Territory.  He  stated  that  in  the  opinion  of  the 
attorney  general  of  the  Territory  the  provision  was 
strictly  legal. 

The  first  act  passed  by  the  Legislature  created, 
in  the  northwest  corner  of  the  Territory,  the 
County  of  Pah-Ute.  In  the  Territory's  original 
form  it  included  a  portion  of  the  southern  end  of 
Nevada.  Later,  when  Arizona  was  cut  down  to 
its  present  boundaries  Pah-Ute  County  was  abol- 
ished, the  lands  it  still  retained  going  to  Mojave. 

A  tax  law  was  given  to  the  Territory  in  which 
negroes  as  well  as  Indians  were  exempted  from  a 
$3  poll  tax. 

A  wife  was  given  the  right  to  hold  in  severalty 
any  property  which  she  possessed  before  mar- 
riage.   The  husband  was  given  a  similar  right. 

A  census  taken  in  1866  gave  the  population  of 
the  Territory  as  follows: 

Pima  County 2,115 

Yavapai  County 1,612 

Yuma  County 810 

Pah-Ute  County   541 

Mojave  County 448 

5,526 


ARIZONA  A  POLITICAL  ENTITY  167 

In  the  fall  election,  1866,  Poston  for  the  third 
time  was  a  candidate  for  delegate  to  Congress,  his 
opponents  being  Coles  Bashford  and  Samuel 
Adams.  Bashford  was  elected,  receiving  1,009 
votes;  Poston  second,  with  518;  Adams  third,  with 
168.  It  is  reassuring  to  note  in  Governor  McCor- 
mick's  message  to  the  third  Legislature  that  there 
was  the  substantial  balance  in  the  territorial  treas- 
ury of  $249.50,  but  in  spite  of  this  opulence  the 
governor,  with  wise  frugality,  advised  economy. 
Still  the  future  looked  bright  to  the  executive,  for 
he  stated  to  his  lawmakers  that  the  Territory's 
lodes  of  gold  ore  "showed  prominence  and  size" 
and  silver  mines  below  the  Gila  on  the  Colorado 
"show  great  wealth."  He  was  also  sure  that  the 
copper  lodes  on  the  Colorado  were  but  an  "ear- 
nest" of  the  importance  which  this  metal  would 
command  later. 

When  the  Legislature  got  down  to  work  it  pre- 
pared for  "Big  Business"  which  was  soon  expected 
by  passing  laws  under  which  corporations  might 
organize.  Also,  feeling  that  in  many  sections  the 
citizen  must  be  prepared  to  defend  his  person  and 
family  and  possibly  administer  his  own  laws,  it 
exempted  from  taxation  arms  and  accoutrements 
owned  by  any  person  for  "private  use." 

The  Legislature  also  authorized  the  attorney 
general  to  settle  with  William  S.  Oury  for  a  hun- 
dred and  five  muskets  and  much  ammunition  be- 
longing to  the  Territory,  which  Oury  took  to  equip 
a  company  of  the  Arizona  volunteers,  but  which 
arms   and   ammunition   had   mysteriously   disap- 


168  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

peared — in  all  of  which,  it  developed,  there  was  a 
story.  It  seemed  that  Governor  Pesquiera  of 
Sonora  was  to  furnish  the  men  if  Oury  furnished 
the  arms,  but  instead  of  using  the  men  so  furnished 
to  fight  Arizona  Apaches,  the  resourceful  governor 
of  Sonora  took  both  the  men  and  guns  south  across 
the  border  and  used  them  against  the  Emperor 
Maximilian.  According  to  Gapt.  M.  G.  Galder- 
wood  of  the  Arizona  volunteers,  who  tells  the 
story  in  Parish's  most  interesting  "History  of  Ari- 
zona," a  Mexican  gentleman  one  evening  asked 
him  for  permission  to  camp  in  the  "Potrero" 
(Pete  Kitchin's  ranch)  near  by.  Permission  was 
granted,  and  behold!  the  next  morning  when  the 
Arizona  officers  awoke  the  entire  Calabasas  pla- 
teau was  covered  with  Governor  Pesquiera's  army 
and  personal  retinue,  which  had  fled  across  the 
border  about  four  jumps  ahead  of  Maximilian's 
troopers. 

Perhaps,  owing  to  matters  not  wholly  disasso- 
ciated with  the  Monroe  doctrine,  Maximilian  was 
persona  non  grata  to  the  Arizona' volunteers,  who 
were,  therefore,  at  all  times  ready  to  supply  arms 
and  ammunition  to  his  adversaries.  If  Pesquiera 
took  the  guns  back  with  him  at  this  time  they  may 
have  given  him  substantial  aid,  for  soon  thereafter 
he  was  again  in  command  in  Sonora. 

In  1868  R.  C.  McGormick  left  the  executive  chair 
of  the  State  to  become  its  representative  in  Con- 
gress, making  the  fourth  Republican  in  succession 
to  fill  that  important  office.  He  was  continued  as 
delegate  until   1874,  when   he  was  followed  by 


ARIZONA  A  POLITICAL  ENTITY  169 

Hiram  S.  Stephens,  the  first  regularly  elected 
Democrat  sent  by  Arizona  to  Washington.  Ste- 
phens' opponents  were  C.  C.  Bean,  Republican,  and 
John  Smith,  also  a  Republican. 

Stephens  was  said  to  have  given  over  $25,000  to 
the  gamblers  of  the  Territory  to  bet  on  him,  the 
gamblers  to  retain  the  winnings,  but  to  return  to 
Stephens  the  amount  advanced.  As  the  gamblers 
and  their  followers  in  the  Territory  seemed  to  be 
in  sufficient  numbers  to  hold  a  balance  of  power, 
Stephens  was  elected. 

In  1876  he  ran  again,  winning  over  W.  H.  Hardy, 
Republican,  and  Granville  H.  Oury,  Democrat,  by 
a  small  majority. 

The  fourth  Arizona  Legislature,  held  in  1867, 
moved  the  capital  from  Prescott  to  Tucson. 

The  sixth,  in  1871,  changed  the  county  seat  of 
Yuma  County  from  the  decaying  city  of  La  Paz  to 
Arizona  City,  which  in  1873  had  its  name  rechris- 
tened,  Yuma.  Following  the  precedents  estab- 
lished by  the  first  Legislature,  the  seventh  (1873) 
granted  a  divorce  to  no  less  a  distinguished  gentle- 
man than  the  governor  of  the  Territory,  Anson 
P.  K.  Saff ord,  from  his  wife,  Jenny  L.  T.  Saff ord. 

The  eighth  Legislature  (1875)  resoluted  that  the 
capital  should  be  permanently  located  at  Tucson, 
but  this  did  not  interfere  with  the  ninth,  in  1877, 
blithely  taking  it  back  to  Prescott  again. 

The  tenth  Legislature  seemed  to  feel  it  incum- 
bent upon  itself  to  rectify  all  of  the  connubial  mis- 
matings  of  the  Territory,  for  at  one  fell  swoop  it 
granted    divorces    to    fifteen    couples,    including 


170  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

John  J.  Gosper,  the  secretary  of  the  Territory,  and 
his  wife.  Although  these  divorces  were  legal 
enough,  the  exercising  of  such  powers  by  western 
territories  seemed  to  have  become  something  of  a 
national  scandal,  for  the  forty-ninth  Congress  put 
a  stop  to  it  by  national  enactment. 

John  P.  Hoyt,  the  fourth  governor  of  Arizona, 
was  a  Hayes  appointee  who  filled  the  office  but  a 
year,  and  was  succeeded  by  John  C.  Fremont, 
whom  Bancroft  says  was  appointed  merely  that  his 
chronic  poverty  might  be  relieved. 

Fremont  held  office  for  three  years  after  his 
appointment,  made  in  1878,  during  which  time  he 
was  much  in  the  East.  The  feeling  that  he 
neglected  his  official  duties  grew  so  strong  and 
criticism  against  him  so  persistent  that  in  1881  he 
resigned,  when  the  official  chair  was  temporarily 
filled  by  Secretary  Gosper. 

Frederick  A.  Trifle  was  appointed  in  March, 
1881,  under  President  Arthur,  to  succeed  Fremont. 
Coming  from  Virginia  City,  Nevada,  he  at  once 
identified  himself  with  all  the  interests  of  his  new 
home,  where  a  delightful  personality,  added  to  his 
marked  ability  as  an  executive,  made  him  very 
popular. 

In  1880,  Granville  H.  Oury,  who  in  the  earlier 
days  had  been  elected  a  delegate  to  the  Confed- 
erate Congress,  and  in  '76  had  been  defeated  by 
Stephens  as  a  delegate  to  the  National  Congress, 
was  finally  elected  to  that  honor,  winning  over 
M.  W.  Stewart,  Republican.  In  1884  the  balances 
again  tipped  and  a  Republican,  C.  C.  Bean,  was 


ARIZONA  A  POLITICAL  ENTITY  171 

given  the  congressional  honor  over  C.  P.  Head  by 
a  very  small  majority. 

From  this  time  on,  however,  party  allegiance 
rather  than  personal  liking  of  the  voter  was  the 
dominating  influence  at  the  polls,  and  each  year 
Arizona's  leaning  toward  the  Democratic  party  be- 
came more  pronounced.  Marcus  A.  Smith,  who 
had  very  ably  filled  the  position  as  district  attorney 
of  Cochise  County,  in  1886  decisively  defeated  the 
former  incumbent,  C.  C.  Bean. 

In  1888  Smith  ran  against  Thomas  F.  Wilson, 
who,  like  Smith,  was  a  prominent  Tucson  attorney, 
defeating  him  by  a  majority  of  1,854  out  of  a  total 
vote  of  13,518. 

As  all  governors  in  territories  w^ere  appointed 
to  their  positions  by  the  President,  Arizona's  first 
opportunity  to  have  a  Democratic  executive  came 
in  1885,  when  Cleveland  appointed  C.  Meyer  Zulick 
of  New  Jersey  to  the  gubernatorial  chair.  It  was 
near  the  close  of  his  administration  that  the  fif- 
teenth Legislature  moved  the  capital  from  Prescott 
to  Phoenix.  Scorning  the  humble  stage  line  which 
went  racketing  over  the  mountains  on  the  old 
Black  Canyon  Road  between  the  two  cities,  the 
solons  journeyed  in  state  by  train  via  Los  Angeles. 

The  first  thing  that  most  of  them  did  upon  arriv- 
ing at  Phoenix  was  to  purchase  shining  silk  hats, 
which  up  to  that  time  were  as  rare  in  the  Territory 
as  white  blackbirds. 

A  short  time  before  this  Phoenix  had  built  a 
commodious  city  hall,  and  it  was  used  for  a  num- 
ber of  years  as  a  capitol  building. 


172  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

When  Harrison  became  President,  in  1889,  there 
was  rejoicing  in  the  Republican  ranks  over  the 
thought  that  the  Territory  would  soon  have  a  gov- 
ernor of  their  own  party  who  would  distribute  offi- 
cial plums  to  the  political  deservers,  but  Zulick, 
feeling  that  it  was  incumbent  upon  him  to  see  that 
the  aforesaid  plums  went  to  nourish  stalwart  de- 
mocracy, filled  every  office  that  was  left  to  him  to 
bestow  with  his  own  particular  friends.  The  Re- 
publicans were  in  the  majority  in  the  Legislature 
and  the  Council  refused  to  confirm  Zulick's  ap- 
pointees and  stayed  in  session  until  President 
Harrison  had  appointed  Lewis  Wolfley  of  Yavapai 
County  as  governor.  When  Wolfley  arrived  in 
Phoenix,  however,  he  found  that  Zulick  had  as- 
sumed that  the  Legislature  could  not  legally  trans- 
act business  after  sixty  days  from  the  date  of  its 
organization.  The  Republicans  claimed  that  the 
intent  of  the  congressional  act  under  which  they 
operated  applied  only  to  sixty  working  days.  In 
the  end  the  Republicans  had  rather  the  best  of  it, 
as,  being  in  charge  of  the  funds,  the  Democratic 
office  holders  were  given  little  but  honors. 

In  Arizona's  next  governor,  John  N.  Irwin,  the 
Territory  once  more  had  an  executive  from  with- 
out the  State,  and  while  Mr.  Irwin  was  a  gentleman 
of  high  character,  he  seemed  to  have  little  success 
in  gaining  the  confidence  of  the  local  people  and 
little  liking  for  the  position  he  occupied.  He  was 
succeeded  by  a  prominent  and  able  Arizonan, 
N.  O.  Murphy,  who  had  made  a  most  efficient  secre- 
tary of  state. 


ARIZONA  A  POLITICAL  ENTITY  173 

When  Cleveland  became  President,  in  1893,  he 
appointed  as  governor  L,  C.  Hughes,  editor  of  the 
Tucson  Star,  who  had  more  trouble  with  his  own 
party,  if  possible,  than  with  the  Republicans.  He 
was  an  advocate  of  prohibition  and  woman  suf- 
frage, which  measures  were  far  less  popular  in 
Arizona  at  that  time  than  they  are  today. 

Hughes'  successor,  the  twelfth  governor,  was 
B.  J.  Franklin,  a  prominent  Phoenix  attorney.  Like 
most  of  his  predecessors,  Franklin  was  a  man  of 
probity  and  ability,  performing  the  acts  of  his 
office  ably.  Also,  like  some  of  his  predecessors, 
there  was  more  or  less  war  between  himself  and 
the  Legislature,  an  account  of  which  need  not  be 
entered  into  here. 

Myron  H.  McCord,  the  thirteenth  governor,  was 
an  appointee  of  McKinley.  In  the  spring  of  1898 
he  rendered  active  assistance  in  organizing  a  regi- 
ment of  Rough  Riders  for  the  Spanish-American 
War.  In  July,  McKinley  gave  him  a  colonel's  com- 
mission and  placed  him  in  command  of  an  infantry 
regiment,  which  included  three  companies 
recruited  in  the  Southwest. 

When  Governor  McCord  led  his  regiment  to 
war  his  place  was  filled  by  N.  O.  Murphy,  who  thus 
became  Arizona's  executive  for  a  second  time.  He 
in  turn  was  succeeded  by  Col.  Alex  O.  Brodie, 
a  very  different  type  of  man  from  most  of  Ari- 
zona's officials.  A  West  Point  graduate,  a  lieu- 
tenant in  General  Crook's  Indian  campaign,  and  a 
lieutenant  colonel  in  the  Spanish-American  War, 
his  whole  trend  of  mind  was  military,  and  was 


174  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

influenced  not  at  all  by  political  expediency.  Dur- 
ing his  administration  a  woman  suffrage  bill  was 
passed  by  both  houses  of  the  Legislature,  which  he 
vetoed. 

Joseph  E.  Kibbey,  Arizona's  sixteenth  governor, 
was  an  appointee  of  President  Roosevelt,  and  en- 
tered upon  his  duties  with  the  prestige  given  him 
by  a  high  reputation  attained  as  a  member  of  Ari- 
zona's Supreme  Court.  An  authority  on  irrigation 
law,  his  decision  in  a  famous  Salt  River  Valley  case 
has  been  accepted  as  a  basis  for  all  subsequent 
decisions  in  Arizona. 

It  has  been  rather  the  usual  thing  for  Arizona's 
governors  and  legislatures  to  be  antagonistic,  but 
never  had  conflicts  between  the  executive  chamber 
and  the  halls  of  the  lawmakers  been  warmer  than 
those  waged  during  the  Kibbey  administration;  the 
governor's  positive  character  and  fearless  actions 
making  him  enemies  within  his  own  party  quite 
as  often  as  in  the  Democratic  ranks.  Governor 
Brodie  had  protested  against  the  extremely  low  as- 
sessments of  mines,  and  Kibbey  vigorously  con- 
tinued the  agitation.  He  also  strongly  opposed  the 
rather  usual  practice  of  over-stocking  legislative 
halls  with  clerks.  The  twenty-fifth  Legislative 
Assembly  was  largely  Democratic,  and  bitterly  hos- 
tile to  the  governor.  It  abolished  the  Arizona 
Rangers,  which  organization  Kibbey  favored,  and 
did  away  with  the  position  of  territorial  examiner, 
that  office  being  filled  by  a  Kibbey  appointee. 

Although  as  early  as  1895  Governor  Hughes  and 
other  "advanced  reformers"  believed  that  the  time 


ARIZONA  A  POLITICAL  ENTITY  175 

had  arrived  when  Arizona  should  renounce  gam- 
bling as  one  of  its  reputable  and  legal  amusements, 
it  was  not  until  the  beginning  of  the  Kibbey  admin- 
istration that  the  civic  conscience  of  the  State  was 
sufficiently  awakened  to  abolish  the  practice. 

In  1905  Tucson  prohibited  games  of  chance  in 
the  vicinity  of  saloons,  and  the  same  year  the 
Democratic  party  in  Phoenix  declared  against 
licensing  games  anywhere. 

Although  the  city  Democratic  ticket  was  de- 
feated, a  year  later  the  Republican  convention,  as 
part  of  its  platform,  agreed,  if  successful  at  the 
polls,  to  submit  the  question  of  gambling  to  the 
people.  The  Republicans  were  given  the  chance 
to  carry  out  their  promise,  and  when  the  vote  was 
taken  a  majority  of  the  ballots  were  cast  against 
the  games  of  chance.  After  the  city  council,  in 
compliance  with  this  expression  of  public  opinion, 
abolished  the  games,  the  gamblers  opened  a  place 
just  east  of  the  city.  However,  the  handwriting 
against  them  was  on  the  wall,  and  the  twenty- 
fourth  Legislature  the  next  spring  (1907)  abolished 
gambling  in  the  State. 

Many  of  the  pioneers  saw  disaster  in  the  act. 
A  foreman  on  a  large  public  work  complained  bit- 
terly to  us  about  it.  "It  is  the  ruination  of  my 
men,"  he  said,  "this  stopping  of  the  games.  Last 
year  when  you  gave  a  man  a  check,  he'd  go  to 
Phoenix,  blow  it  all  in  in  twenty-four  hours  and  be 
back  on  the  job  not  much  worse  than  when  he 
went  in.  Now  that  he  can't  lose  his  money  at  faro, 
he  has  to  stay  and  drink  it  up.     It  takes  him  a 


176  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

week,  and  when  he  comes  back  he's  a  wreck.  They 
ought  to  have  cut  out  the  booze,  and  let  the  gam- 
bhng  stay."  But  in  spite  of  old-time  prejudice 
there  was  practically  no  criticism  from  any  one 
when  first  the  cities  and  then  the  State  prohibited 
women  and  minors  from  entering  a  drinking 
saloon.  Two  years  later  the  twenty-fifth  Legisla- 
ture enacted  a  direct  primary  law. 

The  governor's  enemies  became  so  persistent  in 
their  antagonism  of  him  that  Kibbey  was  finally 
retired  in  1909,  and  Judge  Richard  E.  Sloan,  also 
an  Arizona  jurist  of  high  ability,  and  a  personal 
friend  of  Kibbey,  was  appointed  in  his  place. 

From  1886  to  1906  the  citizens  of  Arizona  had 
a  most  persistent  and  almost  irradicable  habit  of 
sending  Marcus  Aurelius  Smith  to  Congress. 
Smith  was  a  forceful  speaker  and  a  wonderful 
campaigner,  and  from  '86  to  '94  was  returned  to 
Washington  with  the  inevitableness  of  sunrise.  In 
'94,  however,  he  was  not  even  a  nominee  of  his 
party,  and  N.  0.  Murphy,  Republican,  won  against 
John  C.  Herndon,  Democrat,  and  W.  O.  O'Neill, 
Populist.  In  1896,  Smith  was  again  elected,  and, 
after  a  vacation  of  two  years  following  1898,  when 
Col.  J.  S.  Wilson  represented  the  Territory,  Marcus 
went  back  to  the  old  job  for  two  years  more.  Fol- 
lowing this  term,  in  1902,  Wilson  was  again  dele- 
gate until  1904,  when  Smith  was  returned  for  two 
more  terms.  In  1908,  Ralph  H.  Cameron,  the  Re- 
publican nominee,  made  a  most  efficient  campaign, 
beating  Smith  by  708  votes. 

As  a  delegate  from  the  Territory  had  no  vote 


ARIZONA  A  POLITICAL  ENTITY  177 

in  Congress,  during  the  early  years  Arizona's  rep- 
resentative could  naturally  have  but  little  influence 
on  National  legislation,  and  all  the  delegates  from 
Arizona  during  these  days  made  statehood  the  one 
paramount  boon  to  be  obtained  for  their  common- 
wealth. That  Arizona  should  "blaze  forth  a  new 
star  in  the  galaxy  of  States"  was  the  slogan  of 
every  congressional  campaign  at  home  and  the 
Holy  Grail  of  every  delegate  at  Washington. 

In  1892,  Smith  succeeded  in  getting  a  bill,  with 
a  complete  constitution  attached,  through  the 
House,  but  when  it  reached  the  Senate  it  was  killed 
in  committee.  A  second  bill  managed  to  reach  the 
upper  House  a  year  later,  but,  like  its  predecessor, 
it  was  quietly  chloroformed. 

Republican  Delegate  Murphy  tried  his  luck  with 
a  statehood  bill  in  1895,  but  succeeded  no  better 
than  Smith,  and  when  Delegate  Wilson,  in  1899, 
with  Democratic  bait  on  his  hook,  went  fishing  for 
the  statehood  trout,  his  creel  was  as  empty  at  the 
end  of  his  term  as  had  been  those  who  had  gone 
before  him. 

In  1902  a  bill  passed  the  House  admitting  Okla- 
homa, New  Mexico  and  Arizona,  but  when  it 
reached  the  Senate  it  was  bitterly  opposed  by  a 
faction  headed  by  Senator  Beveridge,  who  later 
that  same  year  made  a  tour  of  inspection  of  the 
Southwest  with  three  other  members  of  the  sena- 
torial Committee  on  Statehood.  Wishing  to  do  the 
job  thoroughly,  the  committee  spent  three  entire 
days  in  the  State,  and  if  that  time  was  a  little  short 
in    which    to    notice    Arizona's    really    excellent 

12 


178  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

schools,  its  abundant  churches,  the  low  rate  of  illit- 
eracy of  its  inhabitants,  its  well-built  irrigating 
canals,  its  green  alfalfa  fields  and  rich  mines,  it 
gave  ample  time  to  visit  its  open  gambling  halls 
and  accept  them  as  a  standard  of  Arizona's  citizen- 
ship. An  hour  spent  in  looking  out  of  the  car  win- 
dow at  the  cactus-covered  desert  was  time  enough 
and  to  spare  to  prove  the  State's  agricultural  im- 
possibilities. When  the  committee  returned  to 
Washington  it  reported  that  there  might  be  virtue 
enough  in  Arizona  to  admit  it  to  statehood  if  yoked 
to  the  modicum  of  virtue  to  be  found  in  New  Mex- 
ico, but  there  was  far  too  little  of  civic  excellence 
in  either  commonwealth  for  either  to  attempt  the 
statehood  portals  alone. 

In  the  fall  of  1903,  William  Randolph  Hearst 
and  Democratic  confreres  visited  Arizona  and 
found  no  sign  of  moral  degeneracy  in  the  fact  that 
Arizona  would,  if  given  statehood,  probably  send 
two  Democratic  senators  to  Washington. 

In  1904,  Representative  Hamilton,  chairman  of 
the  Committee  on  Territories,  put  a  bill  through 
the  House  linking  Arizona  in  statehood  with  New 
Mexico,  performing  the  act  in  spite  of  the  vehement 
protests  of  Arizona's  delegate,  who  pointed  out 
that,  in  case  of  jointure,  Arizona,  which  was  largely 
American,  would  be  wholly  dominated  by  the 
greater  number  of  voters  in  New  Mexico,  who  were 
largely  composed  of  Spanish-Americans.  When 
the  bill  went  to  the  upper  House,  Senator  Foraker, 
who  appreciated  the  justness  of  Arizona's  desire 
to  be  a  separate  commonwealth,  succeeded  in  hav- 


ARIZONA  A  POLITICAL  ENTITY  179 

ing  the  bill  amended  so  as  to  permit  each  Territory 
to  vote  on  the  proposed  measure.  The  House,  how- 
ever, refused  to  accept  the  amendment,  and  for 
that  year  the  matter  was  a  closed  incident. 

Two  years  later,  in  January,  1906,  the  House 
again  passed  a  joint  statehood  bill  wherein  Ari- 
zona and  New  Mexico  were  to  become  a  State 
under  the  name,  "Arizona."  Senator  Foraker  for 
a  second  time  insisted  that  the  two  territories 
should  first  be  allowed  to  vote  on  the  proposed 
action,  and  the  House  this  time,  as  well  as  the 
Senate,  accepted  this  amendment. 

The  ballot  on  statehood  was  taken  at  the  regu- 
lar fall  election  in  November,  1906.  Arizona  cast 
3,141  votes  for  joint  statehood  and  16,265  against  it. 
C.  F.  Ainsworth,  who  ran  as  a  joint  statehood  can- 
didate for  Congress,  received  508  votes,  with  11,101 
for  Smith  and  8,909  for  Cooper,  Republican.  In 
New  Mexico,  joint  statehood  carried  by  a  vote  of 
26,195  for  and  14,735  against. 

In  October,  1909,  while  visiting  Arizona,  Presi- 
dent Taft  announced  publicly  his  approval  of  Ari- 
zona's desire  for  separate  statehood,  but  warned 
the  people  of  the  Territor}'^  against  a  freakish  con- 
stitution like  that  of  Oklahoma,  especially  con- 
demning the  initiative,  referendum  and  recall.  A 
bill  granting  separate  statehood  to  Arizona  and 
New  Mexico  passed  both  the  House  and  Senate  in 
June,  1910. 

The  election  of  delegates  to  the  constitutional 
convention  was  held  September  12,  1910,  and 
forty-one  Democrats  and  eleven  Republicans  were 


180  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

chosen  for  that  important  body.  The  delegates 
were:  Democrats — Apache  County,  Fred  T.  Col- 
ter; Cochise  County,  E.  E.  EUinwood,  Thomas 
Feeney,  G.  H.  Bolan,  A.  F.  Parsons,  R.  B.  Sims, 
P.  F.  Connelly,  E.  A.  Tovrea,  D.  M.  Cunningham, 
C.  M.  Roberts,  S.  B.  Bradner;  Gila  County,  Alfred 
Kinney,  George  W.  P.  Hunt,  J.  J.  Keegan,  Jacob 
Weinberger;  Graham  County,  Lamar  Cobb,  Mit 
Simms,  A.  M.  Tuthill,  A.  R.  Lynch,  W.  T.  Webb; 
Maricopa  County,  A.  C.  Baker,  F.  A.  Jones,  Alfred 
Franklin,  Lysander  Cassidy,  James  E.  Crutchfield, 
Sidney  P.  Osborn,  Orrin  Standage,  B.  B.  Moeur, 
John  P.  Orme;  Mohave  County,  Henry  Lovin; 
Navajo  County,  William  Morgan;  Pinal  County, 
E.  W.  Coker,  Thomas  N.  Wills;  Yavapai  County, 
H.  R.  Wood,  M.  Goldwater,  M.  G.  Cunniff,  Albert  M. 
Jones,  A.  A.  Moore;  Yuma  County,  Mulford  Win- 
sor,  Fred  L.  Ingraham,  E.  L.  Short.  Republicans — 
Coconino  County,  C.  C.  Hutchinson,  Edward  M. 
Doe;  Gila  County,  John  Langdon;  Navajo  County, 
James  Scott;  Pima  County,  Samuel  N.  Kingan, 
William  F.  Cooper,  Carlos  C.  Jacome,  George 
Pusch,  James  C.  White;  Santa  Cruz  County,  Bracey 
Curtis;  Yavapai  County,  Ed  W.  Wells. 

George  W.  P.  Hunt  was  elected  president  of  the 
body.  It  was  distinctively  a  radical  organization, 
and  in  spite  of  President  Taft's  warning,  not  only 
were  the  initiative,  referendum  and  recall  meas- 
ures incorporated  in  the  constitution,  but  many 
other  radical  features.  The  initiative  enactment 
provided  that  10  per  cent  of  the  electors  might  pro- 
pose a  measure,  and  15  per  cent  could  propose  an 


ARIZONA  A  POLITICAL  ENTITY  181 

amendment  to  the  constitution.  But  5  per  cent  of 
the  electors  were  required  to  call  for  the  referen- 
dum of  a  measure  passed  by  the  Legislature.  The 
governor  could  not  veto  initiative  or  referendum 
measures  approved  by  a  majority  of  the  electors. 
Any  public  officer  could  be  recalled  upon  the  filing 
of  a  petition  whose  signers  numbered  25  per  cent 
of  the  voters  at  the  last  election.  A  direct  primary 
law  was  re-enacted.  An  advisory  vote  as  to  choice 
of  United  States  senators  by  the  people  to  the  Leg- 
islature was  also  provided  for.  A  corporation 
commission  was  created  and  given  large  powers, 
and  the  rights  of  labor  zealously  guarded. 

The  constitution  in  its  final  form  was  adopted 
by  the  convention  by  a  vote  of  40  to  12,  but  one 
Republican  voting  with  the  majority,  and  when  it 
was  submitted  to  the  people,  February  9,  1911,  it 
was  ratified  by  a  vote  of  12,187  for  and  3,302 
against  it. 

When  the  Flood  statehood  resolution  reached 
President  Taft,  true  to  his  previous  declaration,  he 
promptly  vetoed  it,  principally  for  the  reason  that 
the  constitution  provided  for  the  recall  of  judges. 

In  August,  a  resolution  granting  separate  state- 
hood to  Arizona  was  approved  by  Taft,  with  the 
provision  that  the  recall  of  judges  should  be 
stricken  out  of  the  constitution  by  a  vote  of  the 
people  of  the  State. 

An  election  was  called  for  December  12,  1911, 
at  which  time  congressional  and  State  officers  were 
also  voted  for.  Those  elected  included,  for  dele- 
gate to  Congress,  Carl  Hayden,  sheriff  of  Maricopa 


182  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

County;  for  governor,  George  W.  P.  Hunt,  presi- 
dent of  the  constitutional  convention,  and  an  ad- 
visory vote  to  the  Legislature  for  United  States 
senators  gave  preferment  to  Marcus  A.  Smith,  for 
many  years  delegate  to  the  House  of  Representa- 
tives, and  Henry  F.  Ashurst,  prominent  in  Arizona 
politics.    All  were  Democrats. 

As  there  was  no  other  way  out  of  it,  in  response 
to  President  Taf  t's  demand  that  the  recall  of  judges 
be  stricken  out  of  the  constitution,  the  citizens  of 
the  State  voted  in  compliance  with  his  wishes. 


Chapter  XV 

MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS 

DURING  the  early  years  following  the  Civil 
War  the  successive  administrations  at 
Washington  seem  to  have  appreciated, 
in  a  vague  sort  of  way,  that  anj'  real  development 
of  the  new  Territory  of  Arizona  would  be  impos- 
sible without  military  protection  from  the  hostile 
Indians,  yet  the  relief  furnished  was  so  inadequate 
that  raiding  of  mines  and  ranches  and  the  murder 
of  travelers  continued  more  or  less  continuously 
do^Ti  to  1885,  when  the  worst  of  the  Apache  rene- 
gades were  taken  as  prisoners  of  war  out  of  the 
State. 

According  to  Bancroft,  the  number  of  Indians 
in  Arizona  in  1863-64,  exclusive  of  the  Navajos, 
was  about  twenty-five  thousand. 

In  Hinton's  Hand  Book,  published  in  1877,  the 
following  census  is  given : 

COLORADO  INDIANS 

Mojaves  and  Chemehuevis. . . .      820 

Hualpais 600 

Coahuilas    150 

Cocopahs   180 

1,750 

Moquis  (Hopis)   1,700 

Pimas    4,100 

Maricopas   400 

4,500 

Papagos    5,900 

183 


184   .  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

APACHES 

Pinal  and  Aravaipa 1,051 

Chiricahua  297 

Mojave   618 

Tonto 629 

Coyotero   1,612 

Southern    1,600 

Yuma    352 

6,159 

Yumas    930 

Mojaves 700 

Navajos 11,868 

13,508 

33,507 

Of  these  only  the  following  are  named  as  being 
engaged  in  civilized  pursuits: 

All  the  Hopis,  1,700;  Mojaves,  400;  Pimas  and 
Maricopas,  800;  Papagos,  950;  and  about  700 
Apaches  and  3,500  Navajos. 

To  protect  the  settlers  against  the  hostiles,  the 
War  Department  furnished  from  two  to  three  regi- 
ments of  soldiers,  distributed  in  posts  in  different 
parts  of  the  Territory.  These  were  not  in  any 
sense  defensible  forts,  but  simply  barracks  where 
soldiers  were  quartered.  In  the  desert  country  the 
buildings  were  usually  made  of  adobe,  with  pole 
roofs  covered  with  clay.  In  timbered  localities 
like  Prescott  log  houses,  in  some  cases,  were 
erected. 

The  principal  posts  used  during  the  period 
from  1865  to  1885  include  the  following: 

Fort  Yuma  on  the  lower  Colorado ;  Fort  Mohave 
on  the  Colorado,  a  few  miles  below  Hardyville 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  185 

(this  post  was  maintained  specially  to  look  after 
the  Mojave  and  Hualpai  Indians,  and  give  protec- 
tion to  the  ferry  across  the  Colorado  at  Deal's 
Grossing) ;  and  Camp  Crittenden  on  the  Sonoita, 
which  took  the  place  of  old  Fort  Buchanan.  Tubac 
was  rehabilitated  for  a  short  time  after  the  Civil 
War  and  garrisoned  companies  of  the  Arizona  vol- 
unteers as  well  as  United  States  troops. 

Fort  Mason  at  Calabasas,  fifteen  miles  to  the 
south,  was  also  maintained  as  a  garrison  for  a 
short  time. 

Camp  Huachuca,  in  Cochise  County,  is  one  of 
the  newer  southern  Arizona  camps,  being  built  in 
1876.  As  it  is  less  than  fifteen  miles  from  the 
border,  its  importance  has  grown  steadily,  while 
practically  all  the  old  Indian  posts  have  long  been 
abandoned. 

Fort  Lowell  was  first  located  at  Tucson  and 
occupied  in  1862.  It  was  abandoned  in  1864,  reoc- 
cupied  in  1865,  and  in  1873  removed  seven  miles 
east  of  the  town. 

Camp  Bowie,  as  we  have  seen,  was  established 
in  Apache  Pass  after  the  battle  between  the  sol- 
diers and  the  Chiricahua  and  Mimbres  Apaches. 
General  Miles  used  it  as  his  headquarters  when 
campaigning  against  the  Apaches  in  1885.  It  was 
abandoned  in  1896. 

Forts  Apache,  Thomas  and  Grant  are  in  approx- 
imately a  straight  line  running  north  and  south, 
fifty  or  sixty  miles  from  the  New  Mexican  border. 
All  were  in  Apache  country,  and  besides  guarding 
the  miners  and  farmers  in  the  upper  Gila  and  Salt 


186  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

countries,  they  were  designed  to  check  bands  of 
renegade  Apaches  raiding  en  route  to  and  from 
Old  Mexico.  Fort  Apache,  the  farthest  north,  is 
about  eighty-five  miles  south  of  Holbrook  on  the 
White  River.  It  was  established  in  1870.  Thomas 
was  fifty  miles  south  of  Apache,  on  the  upper  Gila, 
while  Grant,  at  the  foot  of  the  Pinaleno  Mountains, 
was  about  thirty-five  miles  south  of  Thomas. 

There  was  also  an  earlier  Camp  Grant,  of  much 
historic  interest,  which  was  situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  San  Pedro  and  the  Aravaipa  Creek, 
and  was  originally  established  as  Fort  Brecken- 
ridge,  as  has  already  been  mentioned. 

Camp  McDowell  was  located  about  thirty  miles 
northeast  of  Phoenix  on  the  Verde  River,  and  was 
established  in  1865.  It  was  also  an  important 
Apache  post,  being  near  of  access  of  a  number  of 
Apache  trails  running  through  the  mountains  to 
the  north  and  east. 

Camp  Verde,  which  was  first  known  as  Camp 
Lincoln,  is  in  the  upper  Verde  Valley,  forty  miles 
or  so  east  of  Prescott.  It  was  used  in  1863  by  the 
California  volunteers,  afterwards,  in  '64,  by  Ari- 
zona volunteers  and  finally  by  the  regulars.  In 
1876  there  were  quartered  at  this  post  six  officers, 
one  hundred  and  seventeen  men  and  forty  Indian 
scouts.     It  was  also  in  Apache  country. 

Whipple  Barracks,  whose  establishment  we 
have  already  noticed,  was  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant posts  in  the  Territory  in  Apache  days.  Near 
the  capital  of  the  State,  and  being  regimental  head- 
quarters with  a  band,  it  was  the  center  of  much 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  187 

social  life  for  a  number  of  years.  For  a  while 
General  Crook  used  it  as  headquarters  for  the  mili- 
tary department  of  Arizona  and  southern  Cali- 
fornia. 

In  1864,  the  year  of  Arizona's  birth  as  a  separate 
commonwealth,  the  military  forces  of  the  Territory 
were  in  command  of  Gen.  James  H.  Carleton,  who 
had  acquired  prestige  not  only  as  the  leader  of  the 
California  column  when  the  Confederates  had 
been  driven  eastward,  but  in  successful  campaigns 
against  New  Mexican  Indians.  However,  after  his 
arrival  in  Arizona,  although  he  waged  an  unremit- 
ting warfare  against  the  Apaches,  wherein  some 
two  hundred  members  of  the  tribe  were  killed,  no 
relief  of  permanent  value  to  the  settlers  accrued. 

At  all  times  skeptical  as  to  the  ability  of  the 
regular  army  to  protect  them,  throughout  the  years 
that  followed  bands  of  civilians  from  time  to  time 
would  organize  temporary  expeditions  on  their 
own  account  against  the  hostiles.  In  1864,  such  a 
party,  led  by  "Col."  King  S.  Woolsey,  attained  a 
rather  unfavorable  notoriety,  at  least  outside  of 
the  Territory,  as  it  was  claimed  that  he,  upon  run- 
ning across  a  number  of  Tonto  Apaches,  invited 
them  to  a  conference  and  poisoned  them  by  giving 
them  pinole  mixed  with  strychnine.  For  years  the 
pinole  treaty  was  a  stock  story  of  Apache  sym- 
pathizers to  illustrate  the  brutality  of  Arizona 
settlers. 

This  version  of  the  story  is  denied  by  one  of  the 
party,  A.  H.  Peoples,  in  an  account  given  by  Mc- 
Clintock.    A  band  of  Apaches  had  stolen  a  number 


188  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

of  Peoples'  horses  and  mules.  Woolsey  and  Peo- 
ples, with  sixteen  other  settlers,  went  in  pursuit  of 
them.  They  followed  the  trail  south  from  Peo- 
ples' Valley  to  the  lower  Verde,  where  they  re- 
ceived reinforcements  in  a  party  of  Pima  and 
Maricopa  warriors.  A  few  days  later  they  came 
upon  a  large  band  of  Tonto  Apaches  near  the  pres- 
ent town  of  Miami.  As  the  hills  appeared  to  be 
fairly  swarming  with  the  savages,  it  seemed  more 
prudent  to  Woolsey  to  parley  than  to  fight,  and 
an  Apache  boy,  who  was  a  member  of  Woolsey's 
party,  was  sent  as  an  ambassador  to  the  enemy. 

The  boy,  after  conversing  with  the  hostiles, 
came  back  with  the  information  that  the  Apaches 
were  willing  to  have  a  peace  talk,  but  advised  the 
Americans  to  be  careful,  as  what  the  Tontos  were 
really  planning  was  to  massacre  them.  Hardly 
had  they  all  been  seated  on  their  blankets  when  an 
Indian  made  a  suspicious  movement.  It  seemed  to 
be  a  case  of  "he  who  draws  first  draws  best,"  and 
the  fight  was  on.  Though  far  outnumbered,  the 
Woolsey  party  had  the  best  of  it  in  arms,  and 
made  a  successful  retreat.  We  read  that  the 
Apache  boy  and  the  Maricopas  fought  the  Tontos 
like  fiends,  taking  twenty-four  scalps.  The 
Apaches,  however,  always  maintained  that  they 
came  to  the  peace  talk  at  the  invitation  of  the 
Americans,  and,  with  no  thought  of  treachery,  were 
fired  upon  by  their  hosts  without  provocation. 

A  year  later,  Arizona  was  transferred  from  the 
military  headquarters  of  New  Mexico  to  California, 
and  Gen.  John  S.  Mason  was  put  in  command  of 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  189 

the  Arizona  forces,  which,  reinforced  by  California 
volunteers,  was  raised  to  about  twenty-eight  hun- 
dred men. 

Mason  at  once  established  the  policy  of  treating 
all  Apaches  in  the  Territory  as  hostile,  and  gave 
orders  that  all  Apache  men,  large  enough  to  bear 
arms,  should  be  slain  on  sight,  unless  they  gave 
themselves  up  as  prisoners.  Women  and  children, 
too,  were  to  be  taken  prisoners.  Mason  acted  on 
the  theory  that  an  Apache  at  large  was  a  continual 
menace,  and  that  the  only  way  that  the  Territory 
could  be  made  a  safe  place  for  white  people  to  live 
in  was  either  to  exterminate  the  hostiles  or  put 
them  on  a  reservation  and  keep  them  there.  A 
reservation  for  the  Colorado  Indians  had  been 
established  in  1865.  Mason  now  organized  a  sec- 
ond reservation  at  Camp  Goodwin,  near  the  later 
Camp  Thomas,  which  was  maintained  until  the 
end  of  1868. 

In  1866  the  military  forces  of  Arizona  were  sub- 
stantially augmented  by  the  organization  of  five 
companies  of  Arizona  volunteers.  Company  A, 
thirty-five  men,  was  composed  for  the  most  part 
of  Mexicans  and  was  commanded,  while  in  the 
field,  by  Second  Lieut.  Primitivo  Cervantes.  Com- 
pany B  was  recruited  entirely  from  Maricopa  In- 
dians. Thomas  Ewing  was  first  lieutenant,  and 
Charles  Reidt  second  lieutenant.  Company  C  was 
composed  of  Pimas,  and  John  D.  Walker,  who 
boasted  of  eastern  Indian  blood  and  who  spoke 
Pima,  was  the  captain  while  the  company  was  in 
service.    William  A.  Hancock,  afterwards  a  Phoe- 


190  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

nix  attorney,  was  second  lieutenant.  Antonio  Azul, 
chief  of  Pinias,  was  first  sergeant  and  later  seems 
to  have  been  promoted  to  a  lieutenancy.  Company 
E  was  recruited  from  Mexicans  in  the  vicinity  of 
Tubac  by  Capt.  Hiram  H.  Washburn.  His  lieuten- 
ant, while  in  service,  was  Manuel  Gallegos.  Com- 
pany F,  also  composed  of  Mexicans,  was  com- 
manded by  Oscar  Hutton,  afterwards  a  scout  in  the 
regular  army. 

All  of  these  companies  actively  participated  in 
the  campaign  against  the  Apaches.  Both  the  Pimas 
and  Maricopas,  as  well  as  the  Mexicans,  made  good 
soldiers,  bearing  discomforts  and  privations  with- 
out complaining  and  fighting  with  dash  and 
bravery  whenever  the  opportunity  afforded.  At  the 
end  of  a  year's  campaign  Capt.  H.  H.  Washburn 
of  Company  E  reported,  "One  thing  has  been 
proven,  that  native  troops  are  far  superior  to  any 
others  for  field  service  in  the  Territory,  and  until 
this  has  been  taken  as  a  basis  of  operation  no  im- 
mediate good  results  can  occur.  Government  may 
continue  to  spend  its  millions  on  any  other  basis 
and  the  Apache  raids  will  still  continue,  while 
three  hundred  native  troops,  well  officered,  at  an 
expense  of  less  than  $800  to  the  man  per  year,  will, 
in  less  than  two  years,  rid  the  Territory  of  its  great- 
est bane  and  obstacle  in  the  way  of  progress." 

To  the  great  discredit  of  the  Federal  Govern- 
ment it  must  be  recorded  that  after  a  year  of  the 
hardest  kind  of  service,  efficiently  and  bravely  ren- 
dered, the  men  subsisting  at  times  on  half  rations, 
illy  clad,  making  their  own  shoes  out  of  deerskin 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  191 

to  keep  from  going  barefoot,  these  gallant  soldiers 
never  received  a  cent  of  pay. 

In  this  connection  it  is  perhaps  not  out  of  place 
to  anticipate  our  narrative  and  call  the  attention  of 
the  reader  to  the  fact  that  in  the  final  campaign 
waged  against  the  Apaches  by  Generals  Crook  and 
Miles,  much  of  what  was  accomplished  was  due  to 
the  sagacity  and  daring  of  their  native  scouts  made 
up  of  Pima  and  friendly  clans  of  Apaches. 

In  May,  1866,  General  Mason  was  succeeded  by 
Col.  H.  D.  Wallen  in  the  north  and  Col.  Charles  S. 
Lovell  in  the  south,  and  they  in  turn  were  replaced 
early  in  1867  by  Gen.  J.  I.  Gregg  and  Gen.  T.  L.  Crit- 
tenden, whose  combined  military  force  consisted 
of  between  fifteen  hundred  and  two  thousand  men. 
In  October,  1867,  by  order  of  General  Halleck,  Ari- 
zona was  made  a  separate  military  district.  A  year 
later  Gen.  T.  C.  Devin  was  put  in  command,  and 
succeeded  in  1869-70  by  General  Wheaton. 

While  it  is  to  be  noted  that  the  regulars  who 
succeeded  the  volunteers  did  not  seem  to  make  as 
efficient  soldiers  as  did  the  native  troops,  they  kept 
up  a  steady  campaign  against  the  hostiles.  Still 
little  progress  was  made  toward  making  Arizona  a 
safe  place  for  white  people  to  live  in.  All  of  the 
commanders  seem  to  have  been  working  on  the 
theory  that  the  adoption  of  some  kind  of  a  reserva- 
tion plan  would  come  the  nearest  toward  solving 
the  problem,  yet  the  steps  they  made  in  that  direc- 
tion cannot  be  said  to  have  been  notably  crowned 
with  success.  General  Devin  stopped  the  rations 
at  Camp  Goodwin  because  the  Apaches  would  not 


192  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

surrender  murderers  nor  agree  to  settle  perma- 
nently. Also  a  temporary  reservation  at  Camp 
Grant,  which  fed  many  Pinal  Apaches  in  1867-68, 
was  abandoned  because  a  satisfactory  agreement 
could  not  be  reached  with  the  natives. 

In  1869,  Arizona  and  southern  California  were 
combined  into  a  military  department  with  head- 
quarters at  Fort  Whipple,  with  the  command  put 
into  the  hands  of  Gen.  George  Stoneman.  General 
Stoneman  seems  to  have  followed  a  policy  similar 
to  that  later  worked  out  more  successfully  by 
Crook,  which  was,  in  brief,  to  exterminate  per- 
sistently depredating  Apaches,  but  encourage  those 
who  were  inclined  to  pursue  the  paths  of  peace  by 
furnishing  them  with  rations  and  blankets. 

The  civilians  of  the  State,  however,  thought  that 
he  put  decidedly  more  stress  upon  rewards  than 
punishments  and  that  the  Apache,  murderous  at 
heart  and  cunning  by  instinct,  was  making  a  fool 
of  him;  that  the  general's  feeding  stations  were 
simply  rendezvouses  where  the  Apaches  fattened 
themselves  at  the  nation's  expense  and  from  which 
they  made  their  murderous  raids.  State  officials, 
legislators  and  private  citizens  were  of  one  accord 
in  these  complaints,  and  finally,  in  the  spring  of 
1871,  a  number  of  the  citizens  of  Tucson  took  the 
matter  into  their  own  hands  in  a  way  that  brought 
lasting  shame  to  the  Territory. 

That  spring  a  band  of  Apaches  had  surrendered 
at  Camp  Grant,  and  about  three  hundred  were 
allowed  to  camp  near  by  on  Aravaipa  Creek,  where 
they  received  rations  and  did  some  little  work  for 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  193 

the  garrison.  While  they  were  there,  settlements 
on  the  San  Pedro  and  Santa  Cruz  were  being 
raided  and  travelers  murdered.  It  was  believed 
by  the  people  of  Tucson  that  it  was  these  Camp 
Grant  Indians  that  were  doing  the  bloody  work. 
Finally  a  ranch  belonging  to  Lester  B.  Wooster, 
which  lay  just  above  Tubac,  was  raided.  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Wooster  w^ere  both  killed,  and  the  contents 
of  the  house  and  the  outbuildings  demolished  in 
the  most  wanton  manner.  This  proved  one  out- 
rage more  than  the  settlers  could  bear.  When  the 
news  came  to  Tucson  a  meeting  was  quickly  called, 
which  was  attended  by  Sidney  R.  DeLong,  W.  S. 
Oury,  Jesus  M.  Elias  and  other  prominent  citizens. 
It  seems  that  protests  against  outrages  had  already 
been  sent  both  the  agent  at  Grant  and  to  General 
Stoneman,  but  no  satisfaction  had  been  obtained 
from  either.  Now  at  this  meeting  a  terrible  plan 
of  revenge  was  agreed  upon.  The  Papago  settle- 
ment at  San  Xavier  had  also  been  raided  a  short 
time  before,  and  those  usually  peaceable  Indians 
were  keen  for  revenge.  The  result  was  that  a  party 
consisting  of  ninety-two  Papagos,  forty-eight  Mex- 
icans and  six  Americans,  with  Elias  and  Oury  as 
leaders,  started  for  the  Apache  camp  on  the  Ara- 
vaipa.  They  reached  it  the  second  day  just  as  the 
dawn  was  beginning  to  break,  while  the  Apaches 
were  all  still  asleep,  except  a  man  and  a  woman  on 
a  bluff,  presumably  guards,  who  were  playing 
cards.  The  attack  was  a  complete  surprise,  and 
Americans,  Mexicans  and  Papagos  slew  what 
Apaches  they  encountered  without  mercy.    Many 


194  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

of  the  Indians  escaped  by  flight  to  the  hills,  but 
others  were  not  so  fortunate.  Some  accounts  say 
that  eighty-five,  others  that  one  hundred  and 
thirty-eight  were  slain.  Bancroft  says  that  all  but 
eight  were  women  and  children.  Twenty-eight 
Indian  babies  were  taken  prisoners. 

One  hundred  and  eight  persons  said  to  be  impli- 
cated in  the  crime  were  tried  for  murder  at  Tucson 
but,  as  might  be  expected,  no  jury  would  convict 
them.  The  one  thing  that  made  their  acquittal 
absolutely  certain  was  that  the  dress  of  Mrs. 
Wooster  and  a  pair  of  moccasins  belonging  to  her 
husband  were  found  on  the  bodies  of  the  slain 
Indians. 

Nevertheless,  whatever  justification  those  six 
Americans  must  have  had  for  avenging  themselves 
upon  the  Apache  braves,  it  is  difficult  to  see  how 
the  slaying  of  the  women  and  children  could  ever 
have  been  anything  but  a  horrible,  haunting 
memory  to  them. 

In  1871,  Gen.  George  Crook,  a  soldier  of  proven 
ability,  and  a  man  who  combined  a  high  character 
with  much  common  sense,  succeeded  Stoneman 
in  his  command.  The  line  between  success  and 
failure  in  any  field  is  not  necessarily  a  broad 
one,  so  while  following  a  policy  that  did  not  differ 
greatly  from  those  of  his  predecessors,  yet  with 
his  keener  judgment,  with  his  superior  qualities  as 
a  leader  and  his  ability  to  command  the  confidence 
of  both  Indians  and  settlers,  where  those  who  had 
gone  before  him  had  only  marked  time,  Crook 
made  a  distinct  advance  toward  arriving  at  a  solu- 
tion of  Arizona's  Indian  question. 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  195 

Like  other  commanders,  he  set  out  to  teach  the 
Apaches  that  it  was  more  to  their  interests  to  be 
peaceable  than  to  be  warlike,  and,  differing  from 
his  predecessors,  to  a  large  measure  he  succeeded. 
He  also  made  the  Indians  appreciate  that  when  he 
said  that  Indians  as  well  as  white  men  should  work 
for  what  they  ate,  that  it  was  within  the  range  of 
possibilities  for  him  to  enforce  his  doctrine. 

One  of  the  first  things  that  the  general  did  was 
to  organize  a  band  of  Indian  scouts.  These  in- 
cluded not  only  friendly  Pimas  but  Apaches  as 
well.  As  we  have  seen.  Apaches  of  different  clans 
were  not  always  on  good  terms  with  each  other; 
indeed,  some  were  at  war  with  each  other  much 
of  the  time.  In  consequence  one  band  was  often 
quite  willing  to  aid  Crook's  soldiers  in  fighting  an- 
other. Then,  too.  Crook  seemed  to  have  been  able 
to  give  his  scouts  the  point  of  view  of  peace  officers. 
They  went  after  the  renegades  to  force  them  to 
become  good  citizens. 

To  familiarize  himself  with  his  field,  as  well  as 
to  educate  and  harden  his  troops,  soon  after  his 
arrival  he  led  five  troops  of  cavalry',  with  scouts 
and  camp  equipment,  on  a  trip  that  totaled  nearly 
six  hundred  miles.  Their  itinerary  included  much 
of  the  Apache  country,  passing  through  Camps 
Bowie,  Apache  and  Verde.  Crook  finished  his 
journey  at  Whipple  Barracks,  which  had  been 
made  departmental  headquarters.  The  amount 
of  good  this  swing  around  the  circuit  did  can 
scarcely  be  overestimated.  The  commander  had 
conferences    with    different    groups    of    Apaches 


196  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

wherever  he  found  them,  and  his  faculty  of  making 
them  understand  that  he  proposed  to  deal  with 
absolute  justice  with  all  of  them  was  a  continuous 
matter  of  wonder  to  his  subordinates. 

Although  the  Apaches  had  been  murdering 
Mexicans  since  the  eighteenth  century  and  Amer- 
icans from  the  time  of  their  arrival  in  the  South- 
west, the  East  in  general  and  Washington  in 
particular  had  taken  but  a  languid  interest  in  the 
matter.  As  a  congressman  said,  after  listening  to 
a  pioneer's  tale,  "Well,  what  do  you  want  to  go 
into  such  a  God-forsaken  country  for?" 

However,  when  such  stories  as  the  Pinole 
Treaty  and  the  Camp  Grant  massacre  reached  the 
sensitive  ears  of  the  easterner,  he  decided  that  the 
savagery  of  the  barbarous  whites,  who  were  trying 
to  exterminate  the  Apaches,  had  gone  far  enough, 
and  Washington  sent  out  Vincent  Colyer,  peace 
commissioner,  to  settle  the  matter. 

By  authority  of  President  Grant,  Colyer  was 
given  powers  which  took  precedence  even  over 
those  of  the  military. 

There  is  no  denying  that  the  Indian  situation  in 
Arizona  needed  remedying.  Unquestionably, 
there  had  been  outrages  perpetrated  by  the  whites 
against  the  Indians  as  well  as  Indian  outrages 
against  the  whites,  and  sweeping  powers  in  the 
hands  of  the  right  man,  or  a  proper  commission, 
might  have  resulted  in  much  good;  but  it  soon 
became  apparent  to  all  who  were  familiar  with 
the  situation  and  acquainted  with  Colyer  that  he 
was  anything  but  the  right  man.    A  member  of 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  197 

the  Church  of  Friends  and  a  man  of  strong 
prejudices  and  no  tact,  his  only  knowledge  of  Ari- 
zona Indians  had  been  gained  in  a  brief  visit  to  the 
Hopis  in  1869.  Now,  upon  again  entering  the  Ter- 
ritory, he  brought  with  him  the  preconceived  con- 
viction that  in  all  troubles  between  the  races  the 
Apache  had  been  the  innocent  victim  and  the  white 
man  the  aggressor. 

Ever  welcoming  any  stories  that  would 
strengthen  his  position,  he  listened  with  avidity 
to  such  tales  as  that  of  the  killing  of  Mangas  Colo- 
rado, the  Pinole  Treaty  or  the  imprisonment  of 
Cochise,  but  brushed  aside  as  unworthy  of  consid- 
eration evidence  laid  before  him  of  literally  hun- 
dreds of  the  outrages  of  the  Apaches  upon  the 
whites. 

When  the  citizens  of  the  Territory  realized  the 
stamp  of  the  man  that  had  been  sent  out  to  them 
with  such  vast  authority  to  settle  the  Indian  ques- 
tion, feeling  against  him  ran  so  high  that  Governor 
Safford  was  moved  to  issue  orders  for  his  protec- 
tion. Whether  there  was  need  of  this  the  reader 
may  judge  from  an  editorial  in  the  Prescott 
Courier  wherein  Colyer  is  referred  to  as  a  "cold- 
blooded scoundrel,"  and  the  Arizona  citizen  was 
advised,  "In  justice  to  our  murdered  dead  to  dump 
the  old  devil  into  the  shaft  of  some  mine,  and  pile 
rocks  upon  him." 

Still  Colyer  could  do  but  little  more  than  listen 
to  the  oratory  of  the  Apache  chiefs,  and  carry  out 
the  plan  that  Crook  had  already  undertaken,  which 
was  to  place  the  Indians  on  reservations  and  treat 


198  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

them  fairly.  So  he  selected  Camp  Apache  for  the 
Coyoteros,  Gamp  Grant  for  the  Aravaipas  and 
Finals,  McDowell  for  the  Tontos,  Gamp  Verde  and 
Date  Greek  for  the  Mojave  Apaches,  and  Beal 
Springs  for  the  Hualpais,  and  returned  to  the  East, 
the  execrations  of  all  Arizona  following  him. 

Golyer's  idea  was  that  the  country  really  be- 
longed to  the  Apaches,  and  if  the  whites  didn't  like 
their  ways  they  could  leave,  or,  staying,  the  least 
they  could  do  was  not  to  drive  the  peaceful  abori- 
gines into  violence  by  aggravating  treatment.  The 
flaws  in  this  theory,  even  assuming  the  impossible, 
that  a  bar  could  be  put  upon  the  western  march 
of  civilization,  are  that  the  Apaches  themselves 
had  not  so  long  before  secured  their  own  title  to 
the  hills  by  driving  out  previous  inhabitants,  and 
that,  wanton  and  cruel  as  had  been  the  acts  of  cer- 
tain degenerate  whites  to  the  Apaches,  other  tribes, 
like  the  Pimas  and  Maricopas,  for  example,  have 
never  been  forced  to  take  up  murder  to  protect 
themselves  from  outrages  at  the  hands  of  even  the 
worst  of  the  palefaces. 

The  bias  of  Golyer's  report  must  soon  have  been 
realized  even  at  Washington,  for  within  a  year  of 
the  peace  commissioner's  departure  the  Apaches 
had  made  fifty-four  raids  and  killed  forty-one  citi- 
zens. 

However,  General  Grook  was  glad  to  use  the 
reservations  Golyer  had  located,  and  v/as  backed 
up  by  Washington  in  his  purpose  to  enforce  strict 
discipline  upon  the  interned  Indians,  and  chas- 
tise the  renegades  by  unremitting  warfare. 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  199 

A  second  Indian  commissioner  visited  Arizona 
in  April,  1872,  in  the  person  of  Gen.  O.  O.  Howard, 
a  very  different  kind  of  a  man  from  his  predeces- 
sor. He  was  not  onlj^  a  soldier  of  distinction,  but 
a  man  whose  deep  religious  convictions  were  active 
principles  of  his  life.  Also,  like  Crook,  he  mixed 
his  theories  with  wisdom  and  common  sense. 

Not  contented  with  listening  only  to  the  Indians' 
side  of  the  case,  he  also  gladly  embraced  the  op- 
portunity of  consulting  the  local  citizens.  One 
important  thing  accomplished  by  him  was  the  com- 
pletion of  a  treaty  between  the  Apaches  and  their 
ancient  foes,  the  Pimas  and  Papagos.  He  also 
moved  the  Apaches  quartered  at  Camp  Grant  to 
the  upper  Gila,  where  the  San  Carlos  garrison  was 
established. 

The  children  stolen  in  the  Camp  Grant  mas- 
sacre had  been  adopted  by  Mexican  families  at 
Tucson.  At  a  big  conference  held  at  Camp  Grant, 
General  Howard  ordered  their  return  to  their 
kinsmen. 

When  the  general  went  East  he  took  with  him 
seven  prominent  Indians  from  the  Apache,  Pima 
and  Papago  tribes,  and  returned  with  them  to  Ari- 
zona in  the  fall  with  each  chieftain  the  possessor 
of  a  new,  blue  suit  of  clothes,  a  bronze  medal  and 
a  Bible.  Soon  after  he  abolished  the  reservations 
at  Date  Creek,  McDowell  and  Deal  Springs,  allow- 
ing the  Indians  to  change  their  residences  to  other 
reservations. 

The  most  characteristic  as  well  as  picturesque 
thing  that  the  general  did  was  to  go  practically 


200  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

unprotected  into  the  fastnesses  of  the  Dragoon 
Mountains  and  visit  the  great  Chief  Cochise. 

The  only  white  men  accompanying  General 
Howard  were  his  aide,  Capt.  J.  A.  Sladen  and  Capt. 
Thomas  J.  Jeffords  (Cochise's  friend  and  blood- 
brother).  With  them  went  Chief  Ponce  and  a  son 
of  Mangas  Colorado.  The  meeting  was  held  with 
much  oratory  and  ceremony,  with  subchiefs  and 
the  mighty  Cochise  all  in  attendance.  General 
Howard  wanted  Cochise  to  take  his  people  to  the 
San  Carlos  Reservation,  but  Cochise  objecting,  it 
was  agreed  that  the  reservation  should  be  estab- 
lished in  their  own  country — the  southeastern  cor- 
ner of  the  Territory  where  the  Government  was 
to  provide  them  rations. 

The  plan  was  carried  out,  Jeffords  was  made 
agent,  and,  in  1872,  the  Chiricahuas  were  estab- 
lished therein  to  the  number  of  one  thousand  peo- 
ple. In  addition  to  the  Chiricahuas  a  band  of 
Janos  came  up  from  Old  Mexico,  and  went  in  with 
Cochise's  people,  eager  for  the  promised  loaves 
and  fishes.  The  chief  of  this  band  was  Juh.  There 
was  also  a  subchief,  oratorical,  treacherous  and 
savage,  by  the  name  of  Geronimo,  who  was  des- 
tined to  prove  as  great  a  scourge  to  the  people  of 
Arizona  as  old  Cochise  himself,  but  without  a 
particle  of  the  big  chief's  sense  of  honor. 

Other  reservations  that  had  been  established 
included  Camp  Ord,  afterwards  known  as  Fort 
Apache,  which,  in  1870,  had  its  beginning  on  White 
River.  San  Carlos  to  the  south,  on  the  upper  Gila, 
was   established   in  1872.     The  northern   agency 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  201 

was  afterwards  discontinued,  and  the  name  San 
Carlos  usually  applied  to  the  entire  reservation. 

At  Camp  Date  Creek,  in  the  western  part  of 
Yavapai  County,  in  1870,  there  were  two  hundred 
and  twenty-five  Indians,  mostly  Yavapais.  At  Camp 
Verde,  in  1873,  there  were  two  thousand  Tonto 
Apaches,  and  the  Yavapais  which  had  been  taken 
there  from  Date  Creek.  At  the  Verde,  under 
Crook's  wise  management,  the  Indians  were  inter- 
ested in  agriculture,  and  did  a  large  amount  of 
work  on  irrigating  ditches.  However,  just  as 
everything  was  running  smoothly,  against  Crook's 
vigorous  protests  the  Indians  were  removed  to  San 
Carlos.  On  the  way  some  of  them  escaped,  others 
got  into  a  fight  with  the  Yavapais,  which  resulted 
in  five  dead  Indians. 

Altogether,  what  with  the  settlers,  the  mili- 
tary and  the  Interior  Department,  working  at  cross 
purposes,  ideal  conditions  were  far  from  being 
attained.  There  was  an  element  among  the 
Apaches  that  had  both  the  desire  for  the  peaceful 
life  and  wisdom  enough  to  see  the  futility  of  trying 
to  whip  the  United  States,  but  there  were  ever 
turbulent  ones  whose  innate  savagery  so  chafed  at 
the  restrictions  imposed  upon  them  by  the  dis- 
cipline of  the  reservations  that  they  were  ready  to 
grasp  any  opportunity  to  escape  from  their  benev- 
olent restrictions  and  go  on  expeditions  of  thievery 
and  murder. 

It  was  encouraging  to  note,  however,  that  in 
pursuit  of  these  renegades  the  law-abiding  Indians 
showed  the  sincerity  of  their  professions  by  giving 


202  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

most  valuable  service  in  aiding  the  soldiers  as 
scouts,  and  often  being  as  zealous  in  hunting  down 
the  runaways  as  any  of  the  whites.  As  will  be 
seen  afterwards,  there  were  times  when  some  of 
these  scouts  proved  treacherous,  at  terrible  cost, 
and  Crook  was  severely  censured  for  the  con- 
fidence he  placed  in  this  savage  soldiery,  yet  it 
would  have  been  impossible  to  have  followed  trails 
and  to  have  pierced  the  heart  of  apparently  inac- 
cessible mountains  in  pursuit  of  renegades  without 
the  guidance  of  these  trailers,  and  in  spite  of  mis- 
takes made  in  the  choice  of  them,  their  service 
justified  their  use. 

Convincing  the  turbulent  Apache  that  the  pas- 
time of  murder  was,  after  all,  an  unprofitable  busi- 
ness, thoroughly  occupied  General  Crook's  time. 
Depredations  in  some  part  of  the  Territory  were 
going  on  continuously.  Miners  were  being  slain, 
freighters  were  being  ambushed  and  ranches 
raided  with  exasperating  monotony.  On  Novem- 
ber 4,  1871,  a  stage  coach  containing  seven  men 
and  one  woman,  a  Miss  Sheppard,  left  Wickenburg 
for  California.  When  but  nine  miles  of  the  jour- 
ney had  been  covered  a  band  of  Yuma  Apaches 
from  Date  Creek  surprised  them,  killing  all  the 
men  but  one.  Being  shielded  by  the  men.  Miss 
Sheppard,  too,  had  escaped  death,  and  after  the 
first  volley  she  and  the  surviving  man,  Cruger, 
though  both  were  wounded,  drove  back  the  sav- 
ages with  their  revolvers,  and  finally  escaped. 

The  prominence  of  one  of  the  murdered  men, 
Fred  Loring,  a  young  scientist,  again  attracted  the 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  203 

attention  of  the  East  to  Arizona,  and  put  emphasis 
on  the  theory  that  there  might  be  bad  Apaches  in 
the  Territory  as  well  as  bad  whites. 

Encouraged  by  this  successful  depredation,  the 
Date  Creek  Indians  now  plotted  the  murder  of 
General  Crook  himself,  but  the  "Old  Gray  Fox,"  as 
the  Indians  called  the  general,  being  warned,  laid 
his  plans  accordingly.  The  deed  as  plotted  was  to 
take  place  at  the  usual  "peace  talk,"  which  would 
be  proposed  the  first  time  the  chief  should  visit 
Date  Creek,  and  at  a  signal,  the  lighting  of  a  cigar- 
ette, the  Apaches  were  to  massacre  Crook  and 
whatever  other  white  men  chanced  to  be  with  him. 

Crook,  wishing  to  bring  the  matter  to  an  issue 
at  once,  took  the  opportunity  to  make  an  early 
visit,  and,  accompanied  only  by  Lieutenant  Ross, 
sat  down  with  the  treacherous  chiefs  in  council. 
However,  behind  this  circle  of  potential  murderers 
casually  lounged  a  dozen  or  so  packers  of  the  mule 
trains,  veterans  of  a  hundred  frontier  battles,  and 
every  man,  with  weapons  concealed,  watched  for 
the  signal.  It  came.  As  the  cigarette  was  lighted, 
a  chief  snatched  a  rifle  from  his  blanket  and  aimed 
it  straight  at  Crook,  but  before  he  could  fire  the 
alert  Ross  had  struck  up  the  barrel.  Then  occurred 
a  grand,  Homeric  fight,  participated  in  not  only 
by  the  sinewy  packers,  but  by  whatever  soldiers 
there  were  at  the  post  who  came  running  to  the  aid 
of  their  general.  So  hot  was  the  fight  that  the  In- 
dians fled  to  the  hills.  In  a  short  time  Crook,  with 
a  detachment  of  the  Fifth  Cavalry,  engaged  the 
Indians  near  the  head  of  Santa  Maria  Creek,  and 
decisively  defeated  them. 


204  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Another  picturesque  battle  fought  by  Crook's 
men  was  what  is  usually  known  as  "The  Battle  of 
the  Cave,"  and  was  an  incident  of  a  general  cam- 
paign covering  middle  Arizona  east  of  McDowell 
and  centering  at  the  Tonto  Basin. 

Nataje,  an  Apache  scout,  advised  Major 
Brown,  the  leader  of  a  detachment,  that  he  could 
undoubtedly  find  hostile  Apaches  in  a  cave  he 
knew  about  near  Salt  River,  at  the  end  of  the 
southern  slope  of  the  Mazatzals.  The  major  sent 
Nataje  with  Lieutenant  Ross  and  twelve  men  as 
an  advance  party.  Approaching  their  destination 
just  before  daylight,  they  discovered  a  band  of 
braves  singing  and  dancing  about  fires  in  front  of 
the  cave.  Following  the  orders  of  the  campaign, 
the  soldiers  fired.  Six  of  the  Apaches  fell,  the  rest 
fled  into  the  cave,  which,  though  of  no  great  depth, 
was  protected  by  a  parapet  of  boulders.  Soon 
Capt.  John  G.  Bourke  arrived  with  forty  more  men, 
and  was  later  followed  by  Major  Brown  with  the 
rest  of  the  command,  including  Pima  scouts.  It 
was  soon  discovered  that  there  were  women  and 
children  in  the  cave,  but  the  commander's  assur- 
ance that  they  would  receive  kind  treatment  if 
they  came  out,  was  answered  with  jeers  of  de- 
fiance. 

After  a  time  it  was  also  noticed  that  rifle  bullets 
shot  by  the  soldiers  against  the  slanting  roof  of  the 
cave  would  riccochet  among  the  Indians,  and  vol- 
ley after  volley  was  thus  fired.  Cries  from  within 
the  cave  soon  made  it  apparent  that  the  shots  were 
killing  women  and  children  as  well  as  men.     A 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  205 

second  demand  for  surrender  was  made,  and,  in 
response,  came  a  weird  and  eyrie  death  chant  ris- 
ing defiantly  from  the  throats  of  the  beleagured 
Apaches. 

The  battle  continued  for  hours;  the  Apaches 
had  determined  to  die,  but  before  dying,  to  kill 
every  soldier  possible.  Some  time  after  daylight 
a  detachment  of  Company  G  suddenly  appeared 
on  the  crest  of  the  cliff  above  the  cave.  Imme- 
diately these  men  began  to  drop  huge  boulders, 
which,  striking  the  parapet  and  bounding  inward, 
wrought  fearful  havoc.  It  was  the  end!  Just  be- 
fore noon  the  soldiers  entered  the  cave  where  a 
fearful  sight  met  their  eyes.  All  the  warriors  lay 
dead  but  one,  and  he  was  dying.  But  eighteen  of 
the  women  and  children  were  left  alive,  and  these 
had  saved  themselves  by  hiding  under  stones. 

Carlos  Montezuma,  college-educated  and  a 
practicing  physician  in  Chicago,  who  has  a  na- 
tional reputation  as  a  worker  for  the  betterment 
of  his  race,  was  one  of  these  Apache  babies. 

General  Crook  kept  up  his  systematic  policy  of 
proving  to  the  renegades  that  the  way  of  the  trans- 
gressor is  hard  until,  by  1874,  the  Apaches  had 
pretty  much  agreed  to  be  good,  and  the  greater 
part  of  the  tribe  was  on  the  reservation.  Crook's 
good  work  was  appreciated  by  the  people  of  Ari- 
zona, and  a  vote  of  thanks  was  given  to  him  by 
the  Territorial  Legislature.  It  was  now  hoped 
that  to  a  great  extent  the  Indian  question  was 
settled.  Most  unfortunately,  however,  in  March, 
1875,  Crook  was  sent  north  to  fight  the  Sioux  and 


206  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

was  succeeded  in  Arizona  by  Gen.  August  V. 
Kautz. 

Whether  or  not  the  new  commander  was  less 
efficient  in  military  lines  than  his  predecessor,  he 
was  undoubtedly  less  tactful  in  his  dealings  with 
the  citizens  of  the  Territory,  and  soon  we  find 
press  and  people  again  uniting  in  bitter  criticism 
of  the  military.  Indeed,  open  charges  of  ineffi- 
ciency were  made  against  Kautz  which  finally  led 
to  his  removal. 

In  carrying  out  the  now  adopted  policy  of  plac- 
ing all  the  Arizona  Apaches  on  one  reservation,  the 
Chiricahuas  were  transferred  to  San  Carlos  in 
1876  and  the  Hot  Springs  bands  in  1877,  when  the 
number  of  Indians  in  the  White  Mountain  Agency, 
which  included  Fort  Apache  as  well  as  San  Carlos, 
numbered  over  forty-five  hundred.  Both  the  Chiri- 
cahuas and  the  Hot  Springs  Indians  bitterly  re- 
sented being  removed  from  their  old  homes,  and 
while  the  former  band  was  being  transferred  quite 
a  detachment  of  them  escaped,  starting  in  at  once 
on  an  orgy  of  depredations,  and  by  September 
they  had  killed  twenty  persons.  As  the  Hot  Springs 
band  was  being  taken  across  the  country,  Victorio 
and  some  of  his  associating  villains  got  away  into 
Mexico. 

While  from  now  on  there  was  comparative 
peace  in  the  northern  and  western  part  of  Arizona, 
that  part  of  the  Territory  extending  from  the 
White  Mountain  Reservation  south  into  Mexico 
and  east  into  New  Mexico  was  the  scene  of  fre- 
quent outrages  which  Gen.  O.  B.  Wilcox,  who  sue- 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  207 

ceeded  General  Kautz,  seemed  unable  to  stop. 
One  reason  for  this  perhaps  was  that  the  Apaches 
were  now  all  armed  with  repeating  rifles,  and  ap- 
parently had  no  trouble  in  getting  ammunition 
enough  to  make  them  exceedingly  dangerous.  Vic- 
torio  came  up  from  his  Mexican  raids,  killed 
seventy-three  whites  north  of  the  line  and  escaped 
again  into  Mexico,  but  General  Terrazzas  was  wait- 
ing for  him  down  in  Chihuahua  with  a  small  army. 
They  decisively  defeated  his  braves  and,  in  1880, 
slew  Victorio  himself,  upon  whose  head  the  Mexi- 
cans had  placed  a  bounty  of  $1,000.  That  same 
year  Juh  and  Geronimo,  with  one  hundred  and  ten 
of  their  followers,  who  now  seemed  to  be  consid- 
ered Chiricahuas,  were  rounded  up  to  make  unde- 
sirable citizens  of  San  Carlos. 

Towards  the  end  of  1880  a  Coyotero  medicine 
man  on  Cibicu  Creek  was  stirring  up  trouble  with 
promises  to  raise  their  old  war-chief,  Diable,  under 
whose  leadership  the  Apaches  would  sweep  the 
white  men  from  the  Territory.  This  started  a  com- 
plicated series  of  troubles  in  which  the  medicine 
man  as  well  as  several  soldiers  were  killed.  One 
most  serious  feature  of  the  trouble  was  that  a 
number  of  Apache  scouts  turned  traitor  and 
opened  fire  upon  unsuspecting  soldiers,  when  one 
officer  and  four  privates  were  killed.  Later  the 
hostiles  attacked  Fort  Apache  itself.  New  troops 
were  hurried  to  San  Carlos  and  five  chiefs  impli- 
cated in  the  outbreak  had  surrendered  to  Indian 
Agent  J.  C.  Tiffany,  when,  unexpectedly,  a  band  of 
renegades  headed  by  Juh  and  Geronimo  escaped 


208  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

from  the  reservation,  followed  by  Loco  and  his 
Hot  Springs  band,  and  another  carnival  of  crime 
and  horror  ensued. 

It  was  then  (July,  1882)  that  General  Crook  was 
sent  for  to  relieve  General  Wilcox,  in  the  hope, 
doubtless,  that  the  personality  of  the  "Old  Gray 
Fox"  would  give  confidence  to  the  settlers  and 
have  a  subduing  effect  upon  the  Apaches. 

The  returning  commander  found  affairs  in  a 
bad  state.  The  Interior  Department  seems  to  have 
chosen  as  Indian  agents  friends  of  politicians 
rather  than  men  of  probity  and  ability.  The  record 
of  Agent  Tiffany  at  San  Carlos,  who  was  supposed 
to  have  been  a  minister  of  the  gospel  at  one  time, 
seems  to  have  been  especially  bad.  The  Federal 
grand  jury  at  Tucson  in  1882  reported:  "We  feel 
it  our  duty  as  honest  American  citizens  to  express 
our  utter  abhorrence  of  the  conduct  of  Agent  Tif- 
fany and  that  class  of  reverend  speculators  who 
have  cursed  Arizona  as  Indian  officials  and  who 
have  caused  more  misery  and  loss  of  life  than  all 
other  causes  combined.  .  .  .  Fraud,  peculation, 
conspiracy,  larceny,  plot  and  counter  plot  seem  to 
be  the  rule  of  action  upon  this  reservation.  With 
the  immense  power  wielded  by  the  Indian  agent 
almost  any  crime  is  possible.  .  .  .  Rations  can 
be  issued  ad  libitum  for  which  the  Government 
must  pay,  while  the  proceeds  pass  into  the  capa- 
cious pockets  of  the  agent." 

General  Crook  had  a  conference  with  the  In- 
dians at  San  Carlos  and  told  the  chiefs  that  he  was 
going   to   place   the   responsibility   directly   upon 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  209 

them,  and  that  they  must  not  only  keep  the  peace 
at  the  agency,  but  themselves  punish  ofTenders.  He 
then  established  his  old  disciplinary  rules  of  metal 
tags  and  frequent  roll  calls. 

The  reservation  was  to  be  policed,  as  of  old, 
with  native  guards. 

A  better  feeling  was  apparent  at  once,  and  a 
number  of  the  Apaches  were  allowed  to  leave  the 
river  agency  and  go  into  the  northern  part  of  the 
reservation  where  soon  about  fifteen  hundred  of 
them  were  self-sustaining. 

But  still  the  Indian  question  was  not  settled. 
In  March,  1883,  Chatto,  one  of  the  most  infamous 
murderers  who  ever  went  unhung,  came  up  from 
Mexico,  and  killed  among  others  Judge  and  Mrs. 
McComas,  prominent  Arizona  people,  taking  their 
little  boy,  Charley,  into  captivity,  and  later  killing 
him. 

It  was  now  evident  that  to  secure  peace  on 
either  side  of  the  border  the  Apaches  must  be 
rounded  up  in  Mexico  as  well  as  in  Arizona,  and 
after  a  conference  with  the  governor  of  Sonora, 
Crook  sent  a  well-organized  expedition  under 
guidance  of  an  Apache  called  Peaches  (who 
claimed  to  be  an  enemy  of  Chatto)  to  the  Apache 
stronghold  in  the  Sierra  Madre  Mountains.  Al- 
though the  expedition  did  not  accomplish  all  that 
was  hoped  for,  Crook  succeeded  in  penetrating  to 
the  heart  of  the  Apache  rendezvous,  waged  a  suc- 
cessful battle  at  a  half-deserted  rancheria,  and, 
after  a  conference,  induced  about  four  hundred 
of    the    Apache    outlaws,    including    Geronimo, 


210  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Chatto,  Nachis  and  Loco,  to  return  with  him.  In 
order  to  persuade  them  to  do  this,  however.  Crook 
was  obhged  to  concede  that  past  offenses  should  be 
forgotten,  that  they  were  to  march  much  as  they 
pleased  and  keep  their  arms  and  whatever  horses, 
mules  and  cattle  they  had,  all  of  which,  it  may  be 
mentioned,  had  been  stolen  from  the  Mexicans. 
On  the  way  Nachis,  Chatto  and  Geronimo  disap- 
peared, leaving  the  soldiers  to  escort  the  squaws 
and  the  stolen  property  safely  back  to  the  reserva- 
tion. However,  Chatto  came  back  the  following 
February,  and  Geronimo,  under  charge  of  Lieu- 
tenant Davis,  came  in  March. 

One  reason  why  these  brave  bucks  were  willing 
to  return  to  their  rations  at  San  Carlos  may  have 
been  that  the  Mexican  Government  had  fixed  a 
market  price  of  $250  each  for  male  Apache  scalps. 
At  the  White  Mountain  Reservation  history  re- 
peated itself  with  monotonous  inevitableness,  and 
in  May,  1885,  the  old,  murderous  band  led  by 
Geronimo,  Chihuahua  and  Nachis  again  went  on 
the  warpath  and  soon  had  twenty-one  more  victims 
added  to  their  infamous  list.  The  southeastern 
part  of  Arizona  was  now  completely  terrorized. 
Home  guards  were  organized  at  Tucson,  Clifton, 
Bisbee  and  Tombstone,  but  their  efforts  were  not 
effective.  Grant  County,  New  Mexico,  offered  $250 
for  every  renegade  Apache  killed,  and  an  Arizona 
board  of  supervisors  offered  $500  for  Geronimo, 
dead  or  alive.  It  must  now  have  been  apparent 
to  Crook  himself  that  his  policy  of  trying  to  con- 
ciliate  such  savage  criminals   as   Geronimo  was 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  211 

destined  to  be  wholly  fruitless.  By  inheritance 
and  ingrained  habit  their  fingers  perpetually  itched 
for  murder,  and  as  long  as  they  had  the  oppor- 
tunity they  would  not  change  their  ways.  In 
December,  1885,  General  Crook  organized  his  last 
campaign  into  Mexico.  His  force  included  a  de- 
tachment of  Apache  scouts,  under  Capt.  Emmett 
Crawford,  who  was  destined  to  be  killed  by  treach- 
erous Mexican  soldiers.  The  renegades  were  driven 
into  southeastern  Sonora,  and  when  the  pursuit 
grew  too  hot  the  hostiles  calmly  asked  for  the  usual 
peace  talk. 

It  was  arranged  that  they  were  to  have  a  confer- 
ence with  General  Crook  at  Funnel  Canyon, 
Sonora,  twenty-five  miles  below  the  line.  The  big 
talk  took  place  as  arranged.  With  Crook  and  his 
guard  of  friendly  Apache  scouts  were  Captains 
Bourke  and  Roberts,  Lieutenants  Faison,  Maus 
and  Shipp,  with  a  few  citizens  and  interpreters. 
Among  the  Indians  were  Nachis,  Geronimo  and 
Chihuahua. 

Crook  had  been  instructed  by  President  Cleve- 
land himself,  through  General  Sheridan,  to  con- 
sent to  nothing  but  the  unconditional  surrender  of 
the  Indians,  and  to  take  every  precaution  against 
the  escape  of  the  hostiles.  It  is  possible  that  Crook 
might  have  succeeded  in  his  undertaking  had  not  a 
man  by  the  name  of  Tribolet  brought  fifteen  gal- 
Ions  of  whisky  into  the  camp  of  the  Indians,  which 
he  sold  to  them  for  $100.  Geronimo,  Nachis  and 
other  chiefs  immediately  got  drunk.  That  night 
Geronimo     disappeared,     and     although     eighty 


212  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Apaches  returned  with  Lieutenant  Faison  to  Fort 
Bowie,  the  conference  was  a  failure.  Heart- 
broken at  the  outcome  of  the  affair,  which  had  in- 
volved much  hostile  criticism  on  the  part  of  his 
military  superiors,  as  well  as  from  the  people  of 
Arizona,  General  Crook  tendered  his  resignation 
as  commander,  which  was  promptly  accepted. 

It  was  now  definitely  decided  that  all  of  the 
renegade  Apaches  must  be  deported  from  the  Ter- 
ritory. On  April  10, 1886,  Chihuahua's  band  of  fif- 
teen men,  thirty-three  women  and  twenty-nine 
children  were  started  for  Fort  Marion,  Florida. 

Immediately  upon  his  arrival,  April  11,  1886, 
Gen.  Nelson  A.  Miles,  Crook's  successor,  started  in 
on  a  vigorous  campaign  against  Nachis,  Geronimo 
and  their  followers.  Appreciating  doubtless  that 
former  failures  had  come  about  through  insuffi- 
cient troops,  the  War  Department  furnished  Gen- 
eral Miles  with  six  thousand  soldiers,  which  he 
distributed  at  strategic  points  throughout  the 
southeastern  part  of  the  Territory.  In  the  mean- 
time Nachis  and  Geronimo,  with  bravado  and  im- 
pudence, secured  a  following  of  all  the  renegades, 
and  were  raiding  across  southern  Arizona  and 
northern  Mexico,  from  the  Santa  Cruz  eastward, 
leaving  a  bloody  trail  behind  them.  In  pursuing 
the  renegades  no  troops  ever  saw  more  active 
service  or  followed  more  closely  a  trail  than  did 
the  command  of  Capt.  H.  W.  Lawton,  which  con- 
sisted of  thirty-five  men  of  Troop  B,  Fourth  Cav- 
alry; twenty  men,  Company  A,  Eighth  Infantry; 
twenty  friendly  Apache  scouts  and  two  pack  trains. 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  213 

Also  accompanying  Captain  Lawton  were  Lieuten- 
ants Johnson,  Finley  and  Benson.  Their  surgeon 
was  none  other  than  Leonard  Wood,  now  major 
general  in  the  regular  army. 

A  hot  trail  of  Geronimo's  band  was  picked  up 
on  the  Penito  Mountains,  Sonora,  and  thereafter 
the  soldiers  hung  on  to  the  trail  of  the  fleeing  out- 
laws like  wolf  hounds  after  a  pack  of  wolves.  Over 
deserts,  where  the  heat  rose  to  120  in  the  shade, 
went  the  renegades,  up  rock  gulches,  over  moun- 
tain tops,  dodging  through  this  canyon  and  that, 
resorting  to  every  Apache  trick  to  throw  their  pur- 
suers off  the  trail.  But  with  the  Indian  scouts  lead- 
ing, the  little  column  of  soldiers,  ever  loyal,  ready 
to  cover  seventy  miles  a  day  if  need  be,  kept  dog- 
gedly to  the  chase,  covering  over  three  thousand 
miles  during  the  brief  campaign.  Finally,  on  July 
20th,  all  but  spent,  the  Apaches  were  driven  into 
a  pocket  near  the  old  presidio  town  of  Fronteras, 
Sonora.  One  account  says  that,  realizing  that  cap- 
ture must  come  sooner  or  later,  and  believing  that 
surrender  at  worst  would  mean  nothing  more  dis- 
astrous than  a  resumption  of  high  living  and  plain 
thinking  at  San  Carlos,  Geronimo,  in  a  roundabout 
way,  let  word  come  back  to  General  Miles  at  Bowie 
that  he  was  ready  to  return  to  the  fold.  In  any 
event,  Lieut.  C.  B.  Gatewood  of  the  Sixth  Cavalry, 
with  two  friendly  Chiricahuas,  was  sent  from  head- 
quarters to  Sonora  to  communicate  with  Geronimo, 
and,  on  August  25th,  taking  his  life  in  his  hands, 
Gatewood  entered  the  camp  of  the  hostiles  and 
talked  with  Geronimo,  whom  he  well  knew.    How- 


214  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

ever,  the  old  villain  declined  to  surrender  uncon- 
ditionally and  wanted  further  negotiations  with 
General  Miles.  The  day  following  he  wandered 
unconcernedly  into  Lawton's  camp  to  talk  with 
that  officer  concerning  the  preservation  of  his  ras- 
cally skin.  The  first  thing  that  Lawton  advised  him 
to  do  was  to  bring  his  followers  down  from  the 
mountains  and  camp  near  by.  The  old  chief  com- 
plied. There  were  Mexican  troops  in  the  vicinity, 
only  too  anxious  to  hang  Geronimo  and  the  rest  of 
the  chiefs,  and  Lawton  had  no  trouble  in  getting 
the  consent  of  the  Indians  to  start  north  with  him. 
Before  going  to  Bowie,  however,  where  General 
Miles  was  still  waiting,  Geronimo  wanted  General 
Miles  to  meet  him  at  some  intermediate  station 
where  they  could  hold  one  of  the  old-time,  friendly 
little  conferences.  However,  the  style  in  confer- 
ences had  undergone  a  radical  change,  and  when 
the  message  reached  General  Miles,  he  sent  back 
word  that  he  would  not  see  the  Indians  at  all  un- 
less they  agreed  to  surrender  and  in  the  meantime 
give  some  evidence  of  good  faith.  As  Lawton  prac- 
tically had  the  renegades  surrounded  with  his  cav- 
alry, there  was  little  else  for  the  Indians  to  do  but 
to  agree,  and  Geronimo's  brother  was  sent  to  Bowie 
as  a  pledge  of  their  sincerity.  On  the  march  north, 
owing  to  Lawton's  vigilance,  there  was  none  of  the 
usual,  casual  dropping  out  of  Indians  en  route. 

General  Miles  met  the  expedition  at  Skeleton 
Canyon,  in  the  San  Simon  Valley,  where,  on  Sep- 
tember 3,  1886,  the  hostile  Indians,  including 
Nachis  and  Geronimo,  surrendered,  and  the  lead- 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  215 

ers  were  hurried  to  Bowie.  Within  a  week  the 
band,  under  close  guard,  was  aboard  a  train  en 
route  for  San  Antonio,  from  which  place  they  were 
afterwards  sent  to  Fort  Pickens,  Florida.  The 
"Indian  Question,"  as  such,  was  settled. 

In  1901  we  saw  Geronimo  at  the  Pan-American 
Exposition,  where  he  was  being  exhibited  by  a  sen- 
timental Government  as  a  type  of  the  noble  red- 
man.  Around  the  old  scoundrel  was  a  crowd  of 
sympathetic  females,  who  were  eagerly  buying  his 
autograph  at  ten  cents  a  piece.  With  the  writer 
was  a  pioneer  Arizonan  who  knew  personally 
more  than  one  of  Geronimo's  victims,  and  what 
that  pioneer  said  concerning  the  scene  we  were  wit- 
nessing, while  illuminating  and  picturesque,  is 
scarcely  printable. 

NAVAJOS 

At  the  close  of  the  Mexican  War,  the  Navajo 
Indians,  who  numbered  about  ten  thousand,  com- 
prised by  far  the  largest  tribe  in  the  Southwest. 
These  notable  Indians  occupied  the  plateau  coun- 
try in  the  northeastern  part  of  Arizona  and  the 
northwestern  part  of  New  Mexico.  While  the  orig- 
inal stock  was  Athapaccan,  various  other  tribes 
were  undoubtedly  grafted  into  it,  including,  at  one 
extreme,  the  half-civilized  Pueblans,  and  at  the 
other  the  warlike  Apaches.  As  a  result  there  was 
produced  a  people  versatile  and  adaptable,  skillful 
in  crafts,  and  cunning  and  aggressive  in  war.  They 
had  no  chiefs  in  the  usual  sense  of  the  word,  and 


216  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

whatever  influence  the  head  men  had  upon  the 
rank  and  file  of  tlie  tribe  seemed  to  be  derived 
solely  from  their  personality. 

Almost  from  the  time  of  the  arrival  of  the 
Spaniards  into  New  Mexico  there  was  hostility  be- 
tween them  and  the  Navajos,  but  in  their  warfare 
the  Navajos  seemed  to  take  no  pleasure  in  the 
murderous  brutality  that  was  so  characteristic  of 
the  Apaches.  Soon  learning  the  value  of  flocks 
and  herds,  the  principal  object  of  the  Navajo  raids 
would  be  to  steal  sheep  and  horses.  On  their  part, 
when  the  Spaniards  made  warfare  against  the 
Navajos,  they  would  make  slaves  of  their  captives, 
when  in  retaliation  the  Navajos  would  often  en- 
slave the  Mexicans.  Indeed,  it  was  a  common  cus- 
tom of  all  of  the  tribes  of  the  Southwest,  and 
especially  of  the  Navajos,  in  their  warfare  with 
other  tribes  to  make  wives  of  captured  women  and 
slaves  of  tractable  captured  young  men. 

The  original  flocks  and  herds  stolen  from  the 
Spanish  colonists,  under  the  care  of  the  Navajos, 
who  took  with  surprising  aptitude  to  the  vocation 
of  herdsmen,  multiplied  until  at  the  time  of  which 
we  write,  they  number  about  two  hundred  thou- 
sand sheep,  ten  thousand  horses  and  not  a  few 
cattle.  Also,  like  practically  all  of  the  Arizona 
Indians,  they  practice  agriculture,  raising  as  much 
as  sixty  thousand  bushels  of  corn  a  year. 

They  undoubtedly  learned  the  art  of  weaving 
from  the  Hopis,  who  manufactured  cotton  blankets 
and  garments  from  the  earliest  times.  With  their 
originality  and  marked  aptitude  for  craftsmanship. 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  217 

the  Navajos  soon  became  very  skillful  weavers 
and  marked  their  blankets  with  an  individuality 
that  is  very  notable.  It  may  not  be  without  inter- 
est to  mention  that  with  the  Hopi  it  is  usually  the 
man  who  does  the  weaving.  In  the  case  of  the 
Navajo  it  is  the  woman. 

Pueblan  influence  is  seen  also  in  what  little  pot- 
tery the  Navajos  make,  as  well  as  in  their  woven 
plaques.  In  nothing  is  the  adaptability  and  nat- 
ural skillfulness  of  hand  of  the  Navajos  shown 
more  clearly  than  in  the  excellent  work  of  their 
silversmiths,  who  are  especially  fond  of  taking 
Mexican  silver  coins  and  fashioning  them  into  but- 
tons or  ornaments  for  their  person  or  saddles  or 
bridles. 

The  theory  that  with  primitive  people  the 
woman  was  always  held  as  distinctly  inferior  to 
the  man  is  disproved  by  the  Navajos.  Consulta- 
tion between  husband  and  wife  is  a  necessary  pre- 
lude before  a  sheep  may  be  sold,  divorce  is  by 
mutual  consent,  and  incompatibility  of  tempera- 
ment is  wholly  adequate  grounds  for  such  a  sepa- 
ration. It  is  said  that  if  the  lady  tires  of  her 
spouse,  she  sets  his  saddle  and  bridle  outside  the 
door  of  their  hogan,  which  is  a  gentle  hint  for 
him  to  take  himself  off.  The  hint  is  seldom  dis- 
regarded. 

Should  a  wife  prove  unfaithful,  it  isn't  etiquette 
for  him  to  cut  off  the  end  of  her  nose,  as  is  the 
cruder  Apache  custom;  instead,  if  he  wants  to 
"save  his  face,"  his  proper  recourse  is  to  prove 
himself  a  man  by  going  off  and  slaying  a  member 
of  some  other  tribe. 


218  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

One  cause  for  trouble  between  the  Americans 
and  the  Navajos  had  been  that  the  tribe  had  no 
definite  civic  organization.  Until  late  years  every 
man  was  a  law  to  himself,  and  answerable  to  no 
one.  Promises  made  in  behalf  of  the  tribe  by  the 
chiefs  or  head  men  were  nonchalantly  annulled 
by  their  constituents  at  will,  and  while  those  who 
had  acquired  property  naturally  wished  the  sta- 
bility of  government  that  goes  with  peace,  the 
sheepless  and  the  lawless  were  ever  ready  to  go 
raiding. 

The  treaty,  as  recorded,  that  was  made  between 
the  Navajos  and  Colonel  Doniphan,  in  1846,  was 
soon  broken,  as  was  the  one  with  Col.  J.  M.  Wash- 
ington, military  governor  of  New  Mexico,  in  1849, 
and  another  made  by  Governor  Calhoun  and 
Colonel  Sumner  soon  afterwards.  It  was  in  the 
spring  of  1852  that  Colonel  Sumner  built  Fort 
Defiance,  which  derived  its  name  from  the  fact 
that  it  was  built  in  defiance  of  the  mandate  issued 
by  the  Indians  that  it  should  not  be  built. 

A  characteristic  bit  of  trouble  was  had  at 
Defiance,  in  1854,  when  a  Navajo  killed  one  of 
the  soldiers;  Major  Kendrick  immediately  de- 
manded that  the  murderer  be  produced.  The 
Indians  agreed  with  surprising  alacrity,  going  so 
far  in  their  zeal  as  to  insist  upon  not  only  appre- 
hending the  culprit,  but  in  hanging  him  them- 
selves, which  they  did  with  all  military  ceremony, 
the  entire  garrison  being  assembled  to  see  the  act 
performed.  But  when  dealing  with  the  Navajo, 
things  are  not  always  what  they  seem.    Two  years 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  219 

later  it  was  discovered  that  the  man  executed  was 
not  the  guilty  Navajo  at  all,  but  a  Mexican  captive. 
The  murderer  was  still  living,  a  distinguished  and 
honored  member  of  the  tribe. 

Another  treaty  was  made  with  the  Indians  by 
Governor  Merriwether  in  1855,  but  the  Navajos 
were  firm  believers  in  the  doctrine  that  treaties 
were  mere  scraps  of  paper,  so  the  plundering  went 
on  just  the  same.  In  July,  1858,  there  occurred 
another  Navajo  murder,  full  of  typical  local  color. 
A  prominent  man  of  the  tribe  wanted  his  wife  to 
visit  his  relations  with  him,  but  she,  frivolous  lady, 
insisted  upon  going  to  a  dance  instead.  Really 
annoyed  by  the  action,  for  the  moment  forgetting 
the  courtesy  a  true  gentleman  should  show  to  even 
his  wife  under  the  most  trying  of  circumstances, 
the  husband  not  only  followed  her  but,  in  an 
impetuous  moment,  laid  hands  on  her,  decidedly 
disarranging  her  wardrobe,  whereupon  the  lady 
tartly  announced  the  termination  of  their  conjugal 
relations. 

There  was  just  one  thing  left  for  the  flouted 
husband  to  do,  he  must  find  some  one  to  slay.  On 
the  day  following,  he  wandered  up  to  Fort  Defiance 
and,  noticing  Jim,  the  negro  boy  who  belonged  to 
Major  Brooks,  not  at  all  from  any  ill  feelings 
toward  the  youth,  but  simply  as  a  matter  of  high 
principle,  shot  an  arrow  through  him  and  fled. 
The  boy  died  and  the  military  authorities  promptly 
demanded  the  murderer,  but  he  was  not  produced. 
As  a  result,  there  was  soon  warfare  between  the 
soldiers  and  the  Indians.    Chief  Sandoval,  who  had 


220  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

always  been  friendly  to  the  Americans,  said  that 
although  all  of  the  others  might  fail  he  would  catch 
the  murderer,  and  to  prove  his  zeal  sent  out  every 
scout  he  could  command. 

Every  day  the  trail  grew  hotter.  The  villain 
had  been  seen  at  Ojo  del  Oso,  later  heard  of  at  a 
cave  near  Laguna  Negrita.  Finally  he  was  caught, 
but  so  desperate  was  his  resistance  that  his  captor 
had  been  forced  to  kill  the  man.  The  next  day 
the  corpse  was  brought  in,  but  alas,  though  Chief 
Sandoval  swore  he  was  the  Navajo  murderer,  and 
Chief  Sarcillo  Largo  swore  he  was  the  Navajo 
murderer,  the  officers  of  the  garrison  recognized 
him  as  a  Mexican  prisoner  of  the  Navajos  whom 
they  well  knew,  and  a  second  vicarious  sacrifice 
had  been  committed  at  Defiance. 

In  a  number  of  skirmishes  that  ultimately  grew 
out  of  this  affair  fifty  Indians  and  seven  or  eight 
soldiers  were  killed  and  an  officer  was  seriously 
wounded.  The  soldiers  had  killed  much  of  the 
Navajo  live  stock,  and,  as  it  occurred  to  the  Indians 
that  paper  was  cheaper  than  mutton,  the  chiefs 
decided  to  make  another  treaty.  So  on  Christmas 
Day,  1858,  all  was  forgiven,  if  not  forgotten,  in  a 
brand  new  covenant  wherein  Colonel  Bonneville 
acted  for  the  Government.  Its  terms  required  the 
return  of  all  prisoners  on  both  sides,  Pueblans, 
Mexicans  and  Navajos,  which  had  been  taken  dur- 
ing the  several  campaigns.  Also,  it  was  stipulated 
that  the  Navajos  should  indemnify  the  Pueblo 
Indians  for  all  depredations  since  August,  1858. 
A  boundary  line   was   fixed   beyond   which   the 


MILITARY  AND  THE  INDIANS  221 

Navajos  were  not  to  go.  The  producing  of  the 
slayer  of  Jim,  the  negro,  which  all  the  trouble  was 
about,  was  waived.  As  the  Navajos  said,  the 
gentleman  had  left  the  country.  The  treaty  was 
quite  elaborate  and  executed  with  due  solemnity, 
but  nevertheless  Navajo  depredations  did  continue 
just  the  same  as  they  had  before.  In  1860  the 
Navajos  actually  attacked  Fort  Defiance  itself, 
when  they  were  repulsed  without  any  great  losses 
on  either  side.  The  report  of  this  seems  to  have 
been  noted  even  at  Washington,  and  in  the  winter 
of  1860-61  Colonel  Canby,  with  regular  troops, 
aided  by  a  large  force  of  volunteers,  including 
many  Pueblons  and  Ute  Indians,  marched  to 
Navajo  territory.  The  principal  result  of  the  cam- 
paign was  losses  in  Navajo  live  stock,  which  hit 
the  tribe  in  a  tender  spot,  and  led  them  to  again 
sue  for  peace.  In  February,  1861,  an  armistice  of 
three  months,  which  afterwards  was  extended  to 
a  year,  was  agreed  upon.  Then  came  on  the  Civil 
War,  and  with  the  withdrawing  of  the  troops  from 
Arizona  the  Navajo  resumed  his  raiding  with  even 
more  hilarity  and  abandon,  if  possible,  than  before. 

PIMA  HISTORIANS 

In  our  story  of  Arizona  we  have  been  able  only 
occasionally  to  give  our  readers  glimpses  of  the 
Pima  and  Papago  Indians.  We  have  told  you  how 
friendly  they  have  always  been  to  the  whites.  We 
wish  we  had  room  to  tell  you  more  of  their  battles 
with  the  war-like  Apaches  and  Yumas,  when,  more 


222  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

than  once,  they  signally  defeated  them.  We  must 
take  space,  though,  to  mention  one  thing  about  the 
Pimas.  They  had  their  own  historian  who  kept 
the  tribal  chronicle,  not  on  the  written  page  or  even 
by  hieroglyphics  etched  on  rocks,  but  by  marks 
and  notches  on  cane-like  sticks.  The  historian, 
like  old  Owl  Ears,  of  the  Salt  River  Reservation, 
would  take  the  stick  in  his  hand,  run  his  fingers 
along  the  notches  and,  with  a  far-away  look  in  his 
eyes,  begin:  "Long  time  ago,  one  winter,  many 
stars  fall  down  in  the  sky;  have  big  rabbit  drive  at 
Sacaton.  Next  summer  two  Apaches  steal  one 
Pima  woman  at  Blackwater.  She  kill  Apache  man 
with  rock,  and  come  back  pretty  soon.  Next  fall 
lots  of  mesquite  beans  on  desert.  Next  winter  at 
Suhuaro  fruit  harvest  have  big  drunk  at  Gila 
Crossing.  Juan  Bignose  fall  off  his  kee  (house) 
and  break  leg."  In  news  interest,  at  least,  not 
wholly  unlike  the  items  we  used  to  read  in  the 
Windy  Corners  Weekly  Bulletin  back  on  the  farm. 


WORKING  OFF  EXCESS  ENERGY 

Photograph   Furuished   by   R.    L.    Graves 


Chapter  XVI 
SALOONS  AND  "BAD  MEN" 

IT  has  been  said  that  most  Arizona  towns  began 
with  the  opening  of  a  saloon  to  supply  the 
necessities  of  life,  later  a  grocery  store  would 
be  started  to  furnish  the  luxuries.  Possibly  the 
idea  that  this  statement  intended  to  convey  was 
that  in  pioneer  Arizona  the  saloon  was  not  only 
the  poor  man's  club,  but  almost  every  man's  club, 
and  when  the  rear  section  of  it  was  occupied  by 
the  usual  Chinese  restaurant,  it  came  perilously 
near  being  many  men's  home  as  well.  We,  natu- 
rally, are  not  commending  the  custom,  we  simply 
record  the  historic  fact. 

Within  the  saloon  were  gaming  tables.  It  is 
not  strange  that  so  many  of  Arizona's  early  cit- 
izens were  gamblers  in  one  form  or  another.  An 
old  pioneer  friend  of  ours  says  they  couldn't  help 
being — that  every  time  a  miner  visited  his  shaft, 
every  time  a  cowboy  went  out  after  a  "bunch" 
of  cattle,  everj^  time  a  traveler  started  on  a  journey, 
he  gambled  his  pay  check  or  hope  of  profit  against 
his  life. 

In  the  earlier  days,  poker  and  monte  were  the 
favorite  saloon  games,  but  later,  in  such  places  as 
Brown's  "Congress  Hall"  in  Tucson,  or  Gus  Hirsh- 
feldt's  "Palace"  at  Phoenix,  the  opportunities  to 

223 


224  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

contribute  to  that  fickle  jade,  Miss  Fortune,  would 
include  one  or  more  faro  layouts,  a  roulette  table, 
a  crap  game,  a  kino  corner  and  perhaps  a  Chinese 
lottery.  In  these  saloons,  whose  doors  had  no  keys 
and  whose  nights  were  the  principal  parts  of  the 
days,  there  was  always  music  and  a  lady  in  a  gown 
of  carmine  or  sunset-pink  would  place  vocal  gym- 
nastics in  competition  with  what  was  usually  a 
very  good  orchestra  composed  of  Mexicans,  who 
played  entirely  by  ear. 

The  most  popular  game  at  the  "Palace"  was 
faro,  where  the  seats  about  the  table  would  always 
be  full,  with  more  men  standing  behind.  One  queer 
rule  of  etiquette  was  that  while  social  proprieties 
would  not  admit  a  negro  playing  with  the  whites 
at  faro,  a  Chinaman  would  be  admitted  upon  per- 
fect equality.  There  the  long-queued  celestial 
would  sit  by  the  hour,  and,  whether  winning  or 
losing,  his  face  would  have  all  the  facile  mobility 
of  expression  of  a  granite  tombstone.  The  colored 
customers  would  play  craps  and  the  mixed,  unopu- 
lent  clientele  of  the  house,  black-and-tan  and  white 
who  wished  to  indulge  their  gambling  proclivities 
with  small  risk  concerned  themselves  at  kino. 
Roulette  seemed  to  hold  special  attraction  for  the 
tenderfoot  who  had  money  to  burn  and  didn't  mind 
the  smell  of  smoke.  In  consequence  more  than 
one  gentleman  from  east  of  the  Mississippi  was 
reduced  from  opulence  to  penury  in  a  single  eve- 
ning, due  to  the  unfortunate  dropping  of  a  small 
ball  on  the  wrong  color  and  number  of  a  wheel. 
Occasionally,  of  course,  a  player  would  make  a 


SALOONS  AND  "BAD  MEN"  225 

big  winning  which  would  be  widely  heralded,  and 
which  would  result  in  increased  playing  at  all  of 
the  tables. 

There  were  many  reasons  why  the  owners  of 
the  tables  found  their  calling  a  lucrative  one.  The 
two  basic  reasons  are  these:  first,  all  games  have 
a  certain  percentage  in  favor  of  the  dealers; 
second,  ninety-nine  men  out  of  a  hundred,  sooner 
or  later,  come  back  to  the  game  if  they  win,  and 
every  man  has  to  stop  playing  when  he  is  broke. 
Indeed,  the  average  laborer  when  he  came  to  town 
did  not  expect  to  win  with  any  consistency.  His 
business  in  town  was  to  "blow  in"  his  pay  check 
or  his  gold  dust,  and  he  expected  to  go  back  penni- 
less to  the  hills,  or  his  job,  when  his  fling  was  over. 
So  it  happened,  in  every  town  of  any  size,  the 
workers  supported  a  group  of  affable,  well  man- 
nered, cool-eyed,  cool-fingered,  law-abiding  gentle- 
men, who  dressed  well  and  were  good  spenders — 
at  the  expense  of  others.  In  the  big  places  the 
dealers  worked  in  shifts  of  four  hours  at  a  time, 
the  twenty-four  hours  through. 

As  told  by  Captain  Bourke:  "Isn't  it  rather  late 
for  you  to  be  open?"  asked  the  tenderfoot  arrival 
from  the  East  as  (at  Tucson)  he  descended  from 
the  El  Paso  stage  about  four  o'clock  in  the  morning 
and  dragged  himself  to  the  bar  to  get  something 
to  wash  the  dust  out  of  his  throat. 

"Wa-a-al,  it  is  kinder  late  fur  th'  night  afore 
last,"  genially  replied  the  bartender,  "but's  jest'n 
the  shank  o'  th'  evenin'  fur  t'night." 

From  the  saloon  to  the  professional  "bad"  man 


226  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

of  the  country  is  an  easy  transition,  as  the  saloon 
was  the  parade  ground  where  the  bad  man  strutted. 
Sometimes,  however,  he  would  be  spurious,  and 
his  bluff  was  soon  called.  Again  we  quote  Bourke, 
who  lived  in  Tucson  in  the  early  '70s: 

"A  wild-eyed  youth,  thoroughly  saturated  with 
*sheep-herders'  delight'  and  other  choice  vintages 
of  the  country,  made  his  appearance  in  the  bar  of 
'Congress  Hall'  and  announcing  himself  as  'Slap- 
Jack  Billy,  the  Pride  of  the  Panhandle,'  went  on 
to  inform  a  doubting  world  that  he  could  whip  his 
weight  in  'b'ar-meat'.    .    .     . 
"  'Fur  ber-lud's  mee  color, 
I  kerries  mee  corfin  on  mee  back, 
'N  th'  hummin'  o'  postol-balls,  bee  jingo. 
Is  me-e-e-u-u-sic  in  mee  ears.' 
"Thump!   sounded   the  brawny  fist  of  'Shorty' 
Henderson,  and  down  went  Ajax,  struck  by  the 
offended  lightning.    When  he  came  to,  the  'Pride 
of   the   Panhandle'   had   something   of   a   job   in 
rubbing  down  the  lump  about  as  big  as  a  goose- 
egg  which  had  suddenly  and  spontaneously  grown 
under  his  left  jaw;  but  he  bore  no  malice  and  so 
expressed  himself. 

"  'Podners,'  he  smiled,  'this  'ere's  the  most 
sociablist  crowd  I  ever  struck;  let's  all  hev  a 
drink.' " 

Another  story  Bourke  tells  is  of  ex-Marshal 
Duffield  of  Tucson  who  was  credited  with  having 
slain  thirteen  undesirable  citizens.  This  may  have 
been  true,  for  Duffield  was  brave  enough  to  wear 
a  "plug"  hat  in  Tucson  in  the  early  '70s,  and  to  a 


SALOONS  AND  "BAD  MEN"  227 

man  who  had  nerve  enough  to  do  that,  encounters 
with  a  baker's  dozen  of  gunmen  would  be  mere 
pistol  practice. 

One  day  a  certain  "Waco  Bill"  arrived  on  a 
wagon  train  from  Los  Angeles,  and  being  three- 
fourths  full  of  a  fluid  Captain  Bourke  denotes  as 
coffin  varnish,  he  desired  to  meet  and  overcome 
the  celebrated  guardian  of  the  peace. 

"'Whar's  Duffer?'  he  hiccoughed,  as  he  ap- 
proached the  little  group  of  which  Dufiield  was  the 
central  figure,  'I  want  Duffer  ;  (hie)  he's  my  meat. 
Whoop!' 

"The  words  had  hardly  left  his  mouth  before 
something  shot  out  from  Dufifield's  right  shoulder. 
It  was  that  awful  fist,  which  could  upon  emergency 
have  felled  an  ox,  and  down  went  our  Texan 
sprawling  upon  the  ground.  No  sooner  had  he 
touched  Mother  Earth  than,  true  to  his  Texan  in- 
stincts, his  hand  sought  his  revolver,  and  partly 
drew  it  out  of  the  holster.  Duffield  retained  his 
preternatural  calmness,  and  did  not  raise  his  voice 
above  a  whisper  the  whole  time  that  his  drunken 
opponent  was  hurling  all  kinds  of  anathemas  at 
him;  but  now  he  saw  that  something  must  be  done. 
In  Arizona  it  was  not  customary  to  pull  a  pistol 
upon  a  man;  that  was  regarded  as  an  act  both  un- 
christian-like and  wasteful  of  time — Arizonans 
nearly  always  shot  out  of  the  pocket  without  draw- 
ing their  weapons  at  all — and  into  Mr.  'Waco 
Bill's'  groin  went  the  sure  bullet  of  the  man  who, 
local  wits  used  to  say,  wore  crape  upon  his  hat  in 
memory  of  his  departed  virtues. 


228  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

"The  bullet  struck,  and  Duffield  bent  over  with 
a  most  Chesterfieldian  bow  and  wave  of  the  hand : 
*My  name's  Duffield,  sir,'  he  said,  'and  them  'ere's 
mee  visitin'  card.' " 

There  were  other  outlaws  within  the  Territory 
of  very  different  stripe  than  "Waco  Bill"  or  the 
"Pride  of  the  Panhandle."  There  were  years,  like 
those  preceding  and  during  the  early  part  of  the 
Civil  War,  when  much  of  Arizona  was  practically 
without  law,  and  therefore  a  refuge  for  all  kinds 
of  desperadoes  from  other  localities.  Those  were 
the  times  when  it  was  said  that  the  California 
vigilance  committee  and  the  peace  officers  of  Texas 
were  the  most  zealous  immigrant  agents  Arizona 
ever  had. 

Many  conditions  in  Arizona  served  to  encourage 
the  vicious  to  deeds  of  crime.  The  border  was  in- 
fested with  Mexican  outlaws,  and  a  robbery  com- 
mitted by  them  at  an  isolated  miner's  cabin,  if 
accompanied  by  murder,  might  easily  be  laid  at 
the  door  of  the  Indians,  while  innocent  Mexicans 
in  turn  were  accused  of  crimes  committed  by 
vicious  criminal  whites.  Bullion  was  often  carried 
across  lonely  stretches  of  desert  or  mountain  on 
stage  coaches  where  hold-ups  were  all  too  fre- 
quent. In  1879  the  Phoenix  stage  was  robbed  four 
times  within  four  months.  In  1882  the  pack  train 
which  carried  mail  and  express  across  the  Pinal 
Mountains  into  Globe  was  held  up,  the  express 
messenger  killed  and  '*P10,000  in  gold  stolen.  In 
Bisbee  in  '83  five  desperadoes,  early  in  the 
evening,    entered    the    store    of    Goldwater    and 


SALOONS  AND  "BAD  MEN"  229 

Castenada,  robbed  the  safe  and,  in  escaping,  shot 
and  killed  at  least  four  people.  In  '89  a  female  who 
called  herself  Pearl  Hart,  with  a  man  by  the  name 
of  Joe  Boot,  robbed  a  stage  in  Kane  Springs  canyon. 
Although  there  was  an  abundance  of  evidence 
against  her,  twelve  sentimental  pioneers  declined 
to  convict  a  perfect  lady  of  stage  robbery,  and 
immediately  thereafter  were  dismissed  for  the 
term  with  caustic  and  uncomplimentary  remarks 
from  Judge  Doan  upon  their  action.  A  succeeding 
jury  convicted  Miss  Hart  on  the  charge  of  taking 
the  stage  driver's  revolver,  for  which  crime  she 
was  sent  to  the  penitentiary. 
^*  While  as  a  whole  the  peace  officers  of  the  State 
have  been  capable,  fearless  and  energetic  men,  in 
a  few  conspicuous  instances  they  seem  to  have 
been  chosen  on  the  theory  that  it  takes  one  des- 
perado to  capture  another.  A  celebrated  case  of 
the  criminally  inclined  officer  is  found  in  the  story 
of  the  Earps  of  Tombstone.  In  the  early  '80s,  when 
lawlessness  in  southern  Arizona  was  worse  than  it 
had  been  for  many  years,  Virgil  Earps  was  city 
marshal  of  Tombstone  and  Wyatt  Earps  was 
deputy  United  States  marshal — this  in  spite  of  the 
fact  that  both  of  them  were  professional  gamblers 
and  were  suspected  of  either  planning  or  par- 
ticipating in  at  least  two  stage  hold-ups.  Asso- 
ciated with  Virgil  and  Wyatt  were  Morgan  and 
Jim  Earps  and  Doc  Holliday  who,  although  he 
hung  out  a  dentist's  sign,  had  gambling  for  a 
vocation  and  manslaughter  for  an  avocation. 
Bitter  enemies  of  the  Earps  were  the  Clanton  cow- 
boys of  the  Babacomari  Mountains. 


230  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

One  night  in  October,  1888,  Virgil  had  arrested 
Ike  Clanton  on  the  charge  of  disorderly  conduct, 
though  it  appeared  that  the  arrest  was  simply 
made  as  a  declaration  of  war  upon  the  Clanton 
gang.  Seeming  to  appreciate  the  great  advantage 
that  being  peace  oflicers  gave  the  Earps,  and  so 
desiring  to  postpone  hostilities  until  a  more  aus- 
picious occasion,  the  following  morning  Billy  and 
Ike  Clanton,  with  Frank  and  Tom  McLowery,  two 
other  members  of  their  gang,  saddled  their  horses 
preparatory  for  leaving  town.  As  they  came  out 
of  the  0  K  Corral  they  were  met  by  the  four  Earps 
and  Doc  HoUiday,  all  heavily  armed.  The  Earps 
opened  battle  at  once,  shooting  and  killing  Billy 
Clanton  and  Frank  McLowery,  while  Morgan  Earps 
and  Virgil  received  flesh  wounds.  The  Earps  at 
once  gave  themselves  up  to  friendly  authorities 
who  promptly  dismissed  them. 

The  Clantons  plotted  vengeance.  Soon  after 
Virgil  Earps  was  shot  from  ambush,  but  got  off 
with  a  wounded  arm.  Morgan  Earps  was  not  so 
lucky,  for  one  night,  while  in  a  saloon,  he  was  shot 
to  death  by  a  man  hidden  in  the  darkness,  his 
assailant  firing  through  a  rear  glass  door.  With- 
out going  into  details  of  the  subsequent  events,  it 
may  simply  be  said  that  Frank  S  til  well,  an  enemy 
of  the  Earps  and  a  friend  of  the  Clantons,  was 
killed,  supposedly  by  the  Earps  at  Tucson.  Later 
they  resisted  an  officer  at  Tombstone  who  had  a 
warrant  for  their  arrest,  took  to  the  hills  and  killed 
a  Mexican  in  the  Dragoon  Mountains;  afterwards 
they  fled  into   Colorado   where  for  some   unex- 


SALOONS  AND  "BAD  MEN"  231 

plainable  reason  Governor  Pitkins  refused  to  grant 
requisition  papers  from  Arizona  for  their  arrest. 

The  most  sanguinary  feud  ever  known  in  the 
State  was  that  between  the  Grahams  and  the 
Tewksburys  in  Tonto  Basin  in  '86-'87.  The  Basin 
was  a  cattle  countr>%  but  in  '86  or  earlier,  sheep 
were  driven  from  the  north  and  herded  under  the 
protection  of  the  Tewksbury  brothers.  The  Gra- 
hams, who  were  cattlemen,  resented  this  action  and 
gave  various  hints  to  the  sheep  herders  that  a 
continued  residence  in  Tonto  Basin  would  doubt- 
less undermine  their  health.  Some  of  these  hints, 
given  after  dark,  took  the  form  of  bullets,  which 
would  go  singing  through  the  herder's  frying  pan 
as  he  fried  his  bacon  for  supper.  However,  when 
frightened  herders  fled,  others  were  put  in  their 
places,  and  soon  open  warfare  was  proclaimed  by 
the  Grahams.  John  Tewksbury  and  a  man  by  the 
name  of  Jacobs  were  running  sheep  on  shares. 
One  day  both  were  ambushed  near  the  Tewksbury 
house  and  killed;  then,  keeping  the  rest  of  the 
Tewksbury  family  away  by  a  fusillade  of  bullets 
from  their  hiding  place  among  the  rocks,  the  assail- 
ants allowed  the  bodies  to  be  devoured  by  hogs. 
This  was  sowing  dragon's  teeth  with  a  vengeance, 
and  resulted  in  a  bloody  harvest  of  twenty-three  of 
the  Graham  faction  killed  and  four  of  the  Tewks- 
burys. Three  of  the  Grahams  were  hanged  by  their 
enemies  on  the  rim  of  the  Mogollons,  most  of  the 
others  were  shot  from  ambush. 

The  last  to  be  killed  was  Tom  Graham.  With 
most  of  his  faction  gone  and  knowing  that  the 


232  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

threat  of  the  Tewksburys  to  "get  him"  if  he  stayed 
would  be  surely  carried  out,  Tom  fled  to  the  Salt 
River  Valley.  The  writer  ate  breakfast  with  him 
in  the  morning  when,  after  an  all  night's  ride,  he 
arrived  in  Phoenix.  "They  sure  would  have  got 
me  if  I'd  stayed,"  he  said,  "and  they  may  get  me 
yet." 

What  he  feared  came  to  pass;,  he  was  shot  and 
killed  from  ambush  as  he  was  hauling  a  load  of 
grain  from  a  ranch  he  had  bought  in  the  valley  to 
Tempe.  Two  young  women  who  saw  the  deed  tes- 
tified that  Ed  Tewksbury  was  one  of  the  murderers. 
John  Rhodes,  one  of  the  Tewksbury  gang,  and  Ed 
Tewksbury  were  arrested.  At  the  preliminary 
hearing  Graham's  widow  attempted  to  shoot 
Rhodes  but  failed.  Rhodes  was  discharged,  Tewks- 
bury was  convicted,  but  on  a  technicality  a  new 
trial  was  granted,  when  the  jury  disagreed. 

While  these  are  conspicuous  instances,  there 
were  many  other  acts  of  violence  which  occurred 
about  that  time,  the  situation  becoming  so  serious 
that,  in  a  message  to  the  Legislature,  Governor  F. 
A.  Tritle  called  its  attention  to  the  thefts,  murders 
and  general  lawlessness  specially  prevailing  in 
the  southern  part  of  the  Territory.  The  President 
of  the  United  States  was  petitioned  to  ask  Congress 
for  an  appropriation  of  $150,000  to  be  used  in  the 
establishment  of  mounted  rangers  to  protect  the 
State  from  criminals  and  Indians. 

Of  all  of  the  crimes  committed  in  the  South- 
west, none  has  been  given  more  publicity  than  the 
hold-up   and  robbery  of  Maj.  J.   W.   Wham,  in 


SALOONS  AND  "BAD  MEN"  233 

1889.  On  May  11th  of  that  year.  Major  Wham  was 
driving  from  Fort  Grant  to  Fort  Thomas,  carrying 
with  him  $26,000  in  gold,  to  pay  the  Fort  Thomas 
soldiers.  With  him  were  eleven  colored  infantry- 
men and  a  sergeant.  When  the  party  entered  a 
gulch  just  beyond  Cedar  Springs  they  found  their 
way  blocked  by  a  large  bowlder.  Several  of  the 
soldiers,  while  attempting  to  get  the  rock  out  of 
the  way,  were  surprised  by  a  volley  of  shots  com- 
ing from  the  hillside.  Unexpected  as  was  the 
attack,  the  soldiers  sought  shelter  in  orderly 
fashion  and  started  to  return  the  fire,  but  upon 
seeing  that  the  gallant  major  had  turned  tail  and 
was  flying  down  the  road,  and  that  the  enemy  was 
shooting  from  stone  breastworks,  they  followed  in 
their  commander's  wake,  leaving  the  gold  for  the 
highwaymen  to  carry  awaj'^  at  their  leisure.  Eight 
soldiers  were  wounded,  but  none  seriously. 

An  investigation  was  made  by  the  military 
authorities,  and  within  a  short  time  eight  promi- 
nent ranchers  of  the  Upper  Gila  Valley  were  ar- 
rested, including  Dave  Cunningham,  Dave  Rogers, 
Tom  Lamb,  Ed  Lyman  and  Wal  Follett.  The 
three  Folletts  were  soon  dismissed,  but  the  others 
were  bound  over  for  trial.  The  attorneys  in  the 
case  were  among  the  most  prominent  in  the  Terri- 
tory; those  for  the  defense  were  Marcus  A.  Smith, 
Arizona's  delegate  to  Congress,  and  Ben  Goodrich. 
The  prosecuting  attorney  was  Henry  Jeffords. 
While  the  trial  abounded  in  picturesque  and  excit- 
ing incidents,  there  is  not  room  to  enter  into  them 
here.     Altogether  165  witnesses  were  examined. 


234  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

but  in  the  end  the  jurors  found  the  prisoners  not 
guilty. 

The  Arizona  rangers,  which  were  organized  in 
Arizona  in  1901,  at  first  numbered  but  twelve  men, 
with  Burton  C.  Mossman,  a  young,  energetic  cattle- 
man, as  captain.  Dayton  Graham  of  Cochise 
County  was  first  lieutenant.  Every  member  of  the 
company  was  a  picked  man,  of  proven  ability  in 
handling  criminals  and  of  unquestioned  nerve  and 
courage.  An  arrangement  was  entered  into  with 
Colonel  Kosterlitsky,  commander  of  the  Mexican 
Rurales,  that  the  command  of  either  might  pursue 
criminals  across  the  border. 

From  the  time  of  their  organization,  the  rangers 
proved  their  value  to  the  State,  not  only  in  captur- 
ing many  desperate  criminals,  but  their  activity  in 
pursuing  the  evildoers  resulted  in  an  exodus  of 
many  an  undesirable  citizen.  In  1902,  T.  H.  Rynn- 
ing,  former  lieutenant  of  the  Rough  Riders,  was 
appointed  by  Governor  Brodie  to  the  captaincy 
of  the  rangers  to  succeed  Mossman,  and  like  his 
predecessor,  he  made  an  able  and  efficient  com- 
mander. By  1903  the  company  included  twenty-six 
men  which,  during  the  six  years  of  its  existence, 
arrested  over  1,000  men  charged  with  serious 
crimes  and  three  times  that  number  for  lesser 
offenses. 

Although  not  acting  in  an  official  capacity,  one 
of  the  most  picturesque  of  Rynning's  acts  happened 
in  1906.  In  the  mining  town  of  Cananea,  south  of 
the  Mexican  line,  were  living  hundreds  of  Amer- 
icans.   In  June  several  thousand  striking  Mexican 


SALOONS  AND  "BAD  MEN"  235 

miners  were  terrorizing  the  camp.  A  lumber  yard 
had  been  set  on  fire,  five  Americans  and  a  number 
of  Mexicans  killed.  With  the  consent  of  Governor 
Ysabel  of  Sonora,  Rynning  led  a  force  of  270 
Americans  into  Cananea,  and  although  they  did 
not  find  it  necessary  to  resort  to  arms,  their  pres- 
ence greatly  reassured  the  American  inhabitants. 

In  1907  Rynning  resigned  to  become  superinten- 
dent of  the  Territorial  Prison,  and  the  captaincy 
of  the  rangers  went  to  Harry  Wheeler,  who  later, 
while  sheriff  of  Cochise  County,  became  widely 
known  through  the  active  part  he  took  in  the 
deportation  of  the  members  of  the  1.  W.  W.  and 
others  in  the  summer  of  1917. 

The  company  of  rangers  was  discontinued  in 
1909  by  an  act  of  the  legislature  as  a  result  of  a 
political  quarrel  between  that  body  and  Governor 
Kibbey. 

THE  BOGUS  BARON  OF  THE  COLORADOS 

When  the  United  States,  by  virtue  of  the  treaty 
of  Guadalupe  Hidalgo  and  that  confirming  the 
Gadsden  Purchase,  acquired  its  great  southwestern 
territory,  it  also,  under  the  terms  of  these  treaties, 
fell  heir  to  many  claims  of  private  persons  for 
large  tracts  of  land  granted  them,  it  was  alleged, 
by  the  Spanish  crown. 

In  New  Mexico  these  claims  involved  6,643,938 
acres  of  land,  and  in  Arizona  11,326,108  acres.  To 
consider  and  adjudicate  these  claims.  Congress,  in 
1891,  passed  a  bill  creating  a  Court  of  Private  Land 


236  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Claims,  which  was  composed  of  five  justices  and 
was  organized  at  Denver,  Colorado,  July  1,  1891. 
After  completing  its  work,  it  disbanded  June  30, 
1904. 

The  principal  claim  for  land  in  Arizona  was 
brought  by  James  Addison  Reavis,  wfto,  on  Jan- 
uary 3,  1885,  filed  with  the  surveyor  general  a 
request  for  the  survey  of  the  land  claimed  by  him 
and  a  confirmation  of  the  grant,  which  he  claimed 
was  originally  given  on  December  20,  1748,  by 
Fernando  VI,  King  of  Spain,  to  one  Senor  Don 
Miguel  de  Peralta  de  la  Cordoba,  Baron  of  the 
Colorados,  etc. 

The  alleged  grant  was  in  the  form  of  a  quad- 
rangle, approximately  236  miles  from  east  to  west 
and  79  miles  from  north  to  south,  with  its  south- 
west corner  39  miles  south  of  an  initial  point  on 
the  south  side  of  the  Gila  River  opposite  the  Salt, 
and  included  Phoenix  and  the  Salt  River  Valley, 
the  Gila  Valley,  many  of  the  richest  mines  of 
the  Territory,  Clifton,  Arizona,  and  Silver  City, 
New  Mexico. 

Reavis  first  made  his  claim  by  virtue  of  a  deed 
from  a  man  by  the  name  of  Willing,  who,  it  was 
alleged,  inherited  it  through  a  long  but  legally 
unbreakable  chain  of  descent  and  transfer  from 
old  Don  Miguel.  However,  when  the  matter  came 
up  before  the  land  court,  Reavis  made  the  claim 
wholly  through  his  wife,  a  Spanish  lady  by  his 
statement,  whom  he  introduced  to  the  dignified 
judges  by  the  simple  and  unassuming  name  of 
Dona  Sofia  Loreto  Micaela  de  Peralta-Reavis,  nee 


SALOONS  AND  "BAD  MEN"  237 

Maso  y  Silva  de  Peralta  de  la  Cordoba,  the  great 
granddaughter  of  Don  Miguel.  As  for  himself  he 
had  quit  being  just  Jim  Reavis  and  was  Don  James 
Addison  Peralta-Reavis.  Even  old  ancestral  Don 
Miguel's  name  had  sprouted,  and  now  with  all  the 
buds  of  it  nicely  fruited,  it  was  Don  Miguel 
Nemencio  Silva  de  Peralta  de  la  Cordoba  y  Garcia 
de  Carrillo  de  la  Cordoba,  grandee  of  Spain,  Sir 
Knight  of  the  Redlands,  gentleman  of  the  king's 
chamber,  Sir  Knight  of  the  Golden  Fleece,  and  a 
lot  more. 

Now,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  James  Addison,  either 
on  his  own  account  or  that  of  his  wife,  had  no 
more  valid  a  claim  to  a  Spanish  grant  than  he  had 
to  King  Solomon's  Mines,  or  the  canals  on  the 
Planet  Mars,  but  he  certainly  did  have  imagination, 
and  if  he  had  gone  in  for  literature  instead  of 
fraud,  he  would  have  made  Jules  Verne  or  Rider 
Haggard  look  like  the  drabbest  of  realists.  Men 
have  worn  striped  clothing  and  lived  behind  bars 
half  their  lives  for  attempting  to  steal  a  little 
silver  plate,  J.  Addison  very  nearly  got  away  with 
almost  20,000  square  miles  of  ranches,  mines  and 
cities. 

To  begin  at  the  beginning,  our  friend  with  the 
big  imagination  made  up  Don  Miguel  out  of  his 
own  over-active  brain,  and  then  after  taking  one 
look  at  his  own  creation  decided  that  so  gallant 
a  gentleman  could  be  none  less  than  the  king's 
bosom  friend.  By  the  way,  for  some  reason  J. 
Addison  had  shifted  monarchs  on  the  old  Don,  for 
now  it  was  Philip  V  who  was  his  patron  instead  of 


238  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Fernando  VI,  but  that  was  a  mere  detail.  The  im- 
portant thing  was  that  one  afternoon  his  Royal 
Highness,  just  to  show  what  a  good  fellow  he  was, 
said  to  Don  Miguel,  "Don,  old  man,  how  would 
you  like  to  be  Baron  of  Arizona?" 

"I'd  like  it  fine,"  says  Don  M.  "Where  in  the 
wide  world  is  Arizona?" 

"Oh,  it's  over  on  the  other  side  of  the  Big 
Water,"  says  the  King.  "It  has  a  lovely  winter 
climate,  and  you  don't  suffer  with  the  cold  even 
in  the  summer.  Besides,  jou  can't  dig  any  place 
without  striking  a  gold  mine." 

"Wonderful!"  says  Don  M.  "How  much  land 
goes  with  the  title?" 

"Help  yourself,"  says  the  King.  "There's  lots 
of  it  there." 

"Thank  you  kindly,"  says  Don  M.  "Put  me 
down  for  about  twelve  million  acres." 

Easy,  wasn't  it,  when  all  one  had  to  do  was  to 
dream  it — like  making  money  on  one's  own  hand- 
press. 

It  is  said  that  Mr.  De  Quincey  could  conjure  a 
dream  like  that  almost  any  evening  with  two  pills 
of  opium.  We  used  to  know  a  Chinese  laundry- 
man  who  could  do  it  with  one.  But  what  Reavis 
wanted  to  do  was  to  be  able  to  wake  up  and  jRnd 
his  dream  still  going  on ;  in  other  words,  he  wanted 
to  make  people  believe  that  he,  Jim  Reavis,  of 
Henry  County,  Missouri,  who  used  to  be  a  street 
car  conductor  and  later  a  newspaper  solicitor  was, 
by  marriage  at  least,  a  sure  enough  Spanish  Don 
entitled  to  wear  a  coat  all  spangled  over  with 


SALOONS  AND  ''BAD  MEN"  239 

orders  of  nobility  and  both  pockets  full  of  emolu- 
ments. 

It  sounds  like  something  of  a  task,  doesn't  it, 
when  one  thinks  of  all  the  things  he  had  to  do — 
first,  make  it  appear  that  Don  Miguel  was  a  real 
person;  second,  show  that  the  king  did  really 
grant  him  the  barony  of  the  Colorados  or  Ari- 
zonaca  (it  had  several  names),  and  last,  that  Mrs. 
Reavis  was  really  the  heir  to  the  old  Don? 

To  pick  up  the  thread  of  our  story  where  the 
plot  begins  to  thicken,  in  the  '70s  there  lived  in 
Sherwood  Valley  in  Mendocino  County,  California, 
an  olive-complexioned,  black-haired  young  woman 
whose  father  was  an  American,  John  A.  Treadway, 
and  whose  mother  was  an  Indian  woman.  Only  a 
few  people  seemed  to  know  just  who  the  parents 
of  the  girl  were,  as  she  lived  with  Americans  for 
some  years.  Reavis  met  her  while  on  a  trip  de- 
voted to  the  manufactory  of  evidence  to  support 
the  old  Willing  claim,  and  suddenly  decided  that 
it  would  be  much  easier  to  assume  this  girl  was 
the  descendant  of  the  mythical  Don  Miguel  and 
marry  her  than  to  carry  the  line  down  through 
Willing.  No  sooner  planned  than  done.  Reavis 
planted  the  girl's  family  tree  at  once,  and  had  it 
bearing  dons  and  grandees  inside  of  a  week.  It 
was  more  diflicult,  however,  to  coach  the  girl  on 
the  part  she  was  to  play,  but  Reavis  was  equal  even 
to  that,  and  for  years  drilled  her  daily  until  at  last 
she  could  not  only  act  the  part  of  a  grand  lady, 
but  seems  to  have  half  believed  that  in  very  truth 
she  was  the  Dofia  Sofia,  the  heir  to  the  Castles  on 
the  Gila. 


240  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

In  order  to  make  Don  Miguel  a  real  person, 
Reavis  went  to  Guadalajara,  Mexico,  where  in 
some  mysterious  manner  he  was  able  to  spend 
unobserved  hours  alone  with  the  old  vice-regal 
records,  and  after  he  had  finished  with  his  quill 
pen  and  the  ink  was  nicely  dried,  all  through  the 
old  volumes  and  papers  there  was  evidence  and  to 
spare  bearing  on  his  grant,  including  a  decree 
creating  the  Barony  of  Arizona  and  a  book  of 
genealogy  showing  the  noble  descent  of  Mrs. 
Reavis. 

So  pleased  was  Don  Jim  with  what  he  had  been 
able  to  accomplish  that  he  gave  $1,000  for  an  altar 
cloth  for  the  cathedral  at  Guadalajara  and  erected 
a  $15,000  drinking  fountain  at  the  city  of  Monterey. 

Wishing  to  feast  his  eyes  on  his  ancestral  halls 
and  hills,  Reavis  took  his  wife,  the  Dofia  Sofia,  who 
by  this  time  knew  her  lesson  perfectly,  across  the 
blue  Atlantic,  and  with  his  grand  air  seems  to 
have  had  no  more  difiiculty  in  obtaining  access  to 
the  royal  archives  at  Madrid  than  he  had  in  look- 
ing for  what  he  wanted  in  Mexico.  Here,  too,  when 
he  had  finished  poring  over  the  records,  every- 
thing he  wanted  there  was  there. 

By  this  time  Don  Jim  had  almost  made  himself 
believe  that  he  was  the  real  thing.  He  lived  nobly 
at  a  leading  Madrid  hotel  with  a  retinue  of  liveried 
servants.  As  the  Baron  of  Arizona  he  entertained 
the  American  legation  and  with  his  wife  was  re- 
ceived with  the  honors  of  nobility  at  the  Spanish 
Court. 

Where  did  Reavis  obtain  the  money  to  do  all 


SALOONS  AND  "BAD  MEN"  241 

this?  That  was  easy.  After  convincing  some  of 
the  most  astute  attorneys  of  America  of  the  gen- 
uineness of  his  claim,  it  is  not  strange  that  he  was 
also  able  to  scare  owners  of  mines  and  ranches 
within  the  limits  of  his  "barony"  into  paying  him 
good  prices  for  quitclaim  deeds,  and  to  sell  in- 
terests in  his  broad  acres  to  capitalists  for  real 
money. 

For  a  short  time  he  lived  at  Arizola,  on  the 
Southern  Pacific  Railroad,  a  short  distance  east  of 
Casa  Grande,  where  his  wife  received  her  guests 
in  robes  of  velvet  and  his  twin  boys,  Carlos  and 
Miguel,  covered  their  noble  heads  in  caps  of  royal 
purple  with  monogramed  coronets  emblazoned 
upon  them.  It  is  said  that  from  1887  to  1893 
Reavis'  living  expenses  for  himself  and  his  family 
could  not  have  been  less  than  $60,000  a  year.  He 
divided  most  of  his  time  between  expensive  hotels 
in  New  York  and  Europe,  a  country  house  on 
Staten  Island  and  a  mansion  in  California.  His 
familiars  included  millionaires  and  high  govern- 
ment officials. 

In  spite  of  all  this,  before  the  formation  of  the 
land  court,  when  Reavis  sang  his  siren  song  before 
Congressional  committees  and  to  the  surveyor 
general  at  Washington  he  was  confronted  with  the 
unenthusiastic  ears  of  agnosticism.  His  story 
might  be  true,  but  the  gentlemen  wanted  to  be 
shown. 

As  time  went  on  the  gullible  goldfish  grew 
more  chary  of  his  bait;  in  brief,  his  story  grew 
stale,  and  ugly  rumors  were  repeated  about  the 
validity  of  the  grant. 


242  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Nevertheless,  with  magnificent  audacity,  Reavis 
brought  his  claim  before  the  land  court,  and  his 
former  counsels  having  deserted  him,  among 
whom  it  is  said  was  Robert  G.  Ingersoll,  with  the 
assistance  of  an  obscure  attorney  he  tried  his  own 
case,  producing  what  at  first  seemed  an  over- 
whelming weight  of  testimony  in  his  favor.  There 
were  cedillas,  decrees  and  writs  in  Spanish  and 
English;  there  were  royal  seals,  royal  signatures 
and  rubrics;  there  were  not  only  genealogies  but 
portraits  of  noble  ancestors. 

Rut  it  was  all  of  no  avail.  Ever  since  the  claim 
had  been  filed,  experts  in  the  employ  of  the  gov- 
ernment had  been  investigating  the  case  and  the 
work  they  did  was  worthy  of  a  Sherlock  Holmes 
or  an  Auguste  Dupin.  From  the  records  at  Madrid 
it  was  learned  that  the  will  of  the  second  Raron 
of  Arizona,  passing  down  the  barony,  was  un- 
doubtedly a  forgery;  and  at  Guadalajara  a  careful 
scrutiny  of  the  records  showed  that  a  cedula,  advis- 
ing the  city  that  the  king  had  appointed  a  new 
viceroy,  had  been,  by  marvelous  forgery  and  sub- 
stitution of  words,  transformed  into  a  decree 
creating  the  barony  of  Arizona.  In  a  book  of 
genealogies,  thirty-five  leaves  of  solidly  forged 
matter,  showing  the  noble  descent  of  Mrs.  Reavis, 
had  been  interpolated.  Even  Mrs.  Reavis'  plebeian 
blood  was  revealed.  As  witness  after  witness  gave 
his  evidence,  slowly  the  edifice  of  fraud  so  in- 
geniously built  up  by  Reavis  crumbled  about  him. 

Not  only  was  his  case  decided  against  him,  but 
at  its  close  he  was  immediately  arrested  for  fraud. 


SALOONS  AND  "BAD  MEN"  243 

convicted  in  the  district  court,  and  on  July  18, 1896, 
went  to  the  penitentiary  of  New  Mexico,  where  he 
remained  until  April,  1898. 

Upon  the  unfortunate  wife  the  blow  fell  the 
hardest.  From  being  an  honored  guest  at  the 
Court  of  Spain,  a  baroness  in  her  own  right,  she 
became  a  menial  in  the  houses  of  Santa  Fe,  glad 
to  obtain  even  the  humblest  work  to  sustain  her- 
self and  her  two  boys. 

Wm.  M.  Tipton,  one  of  the  government  inves- 
tigators, said  of  the  claim :  "No  plan  was  ever  more 
ingeniously  devised,  none  ever  carried  out  with 
greater  patience,  industr>%  skill  and  effrontery." 
It  was  all  the  work  of  one  man,  James  Addison 
Reavis,  the  ex-street  car  conductor,  the  ex-solicitor 
for  newspapers,  and  it  was,  perhaps,  the  most 
gigantic  fraud  ever  attempted  against  the  govern- 
ment. 


Chapter  XVII 

TRANSPORTATION   AFTER   THE 
WAR 

Pack-Trains,  Stages  and  16-Mule  Freighters 

UNTIL  well  into  the  '80s  the  horse,  the  mule 
and  the  burro  were  basic  factors  in  all 
Arizona  transportation.  The  burro  was  the 
faithful  friend  of  the  Mexican  laborer  or  the 
prospector.  He  required  little  care,  any  kind  of 
food  would  do,  including  kitchen  scraps  or  desert 
browse;  from  birth  to  death  he  would  never  know 
curry-comb  and  he  would  carry  on  his  back  any- 
thing from  firewood  from  the  hills  to  dried  grasses 
from  the  mesas.  Often  the  size  of  his  load, 
especially  if  it  were  hay,  would  so  eclipse  him  that 
naught  could  be  seen  but  a  pair  of  long  ears  before 
and  a  tip  of  a  tail  behind. 

On  account  of  their  larger  size  and  greater 
strength,  the  mules  naturally  made  better  pack 
animals  than  the  burros.  They  were  used  by  the 
army  in  transporting  camp  equipment  and  sup- 
plies over  the  mountains;  by  traders  in  the  early 
days  between  Tucson  and  Guaymas;  by  miners  to 
carry  supplies  to  their  lonely  shafts  situated  far 
up  some  apparently  inaccessible  canyon;  and  again 
to  bring  ore  down  to  mill  or  smelter.    In  fact,  they 

244 


TRANSPORTATION  AFTER  THE  WAR     245 

were  used  anywhere  and  everywhere  to  transport 
goods  in  countries  impassable  for  wagons. 

Among  the  best  pack-trains  ever  seen  in  Arizona 
were  those  organized  by  General  Crook  in  his  cam- 
paign against  the  Apaches.  Bony  giants  and 
undersized  rats  were  discarded  and  every  animal 
chosen  was  in  accordance  with  a  regular  standard 
as  to  weight,  height  and  age. 

A  pack-train  had  a  nomenclature  all  its  own, 
the  suadera  was  the  sweat  cloth,  the  aparejo  was 
the  pack  cushion,  the  burden  to  be  carried  was 
called  the  cargo,  the  train  itself  was  the  atajo,  the 
packer  was  the  arriero,  the  pack  master  the  patron, 
and  the  head  loader  the  cargador. 

Leading  the  mules,  which,  of  course,  followed 
the  trail  in  single  file,  would  be  the  white,  bell- 
mare,  which  the  mules  would  follow  with  unswerv^- 
ing  fidelity. 

As  for  loads,  it  is  said  that  a  small  billiard  table 
was  carried  to  Tiger  Camp  in  the  heart  of  the  Brad- 
shaws  by  one  mule,  and  an  organ  for  the  wife  of 
a  superintendent,  at  almost  any  mine,  would  offer 
no  unsurmountable  difficulty  to  a  mule  with  mu- 
sical ear  and  a  strong  back. 

A  trail-broken  mule,  when  traveling  in  the 
mountains,  always  walks  on  the  outside  edge  of 
the  narrow  path,  for  the  reason  that  if  he  fails  to 
do  so  his  pack  is  apt  to  collide  with  an  overhanging 
cliff.  The  story  is  told  of  a  tenderfoot  mule  who 
was  carrying  a  cylindrical  section  of  a  heavj'  sheet 
iron  chimney,  resembling  in  size  and  appearance 
a  large  drum.    The  mule,  poor  soul,  knew  no  better 


246  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

than  to  walk  on  the  inside  of  the  trail,  which  fol- 
lowed a  narrow  shelf  jutting  out  from  a  precipitous 
canyon  wall.  So,  jogging  unsuspectingly  along, 
abruptly  the  cylinder  came  in  contact  with  an  over- 
hanging rock.  The  mule  toppled  dizzily,  tried 
vainly  to  restore  his  equilibrium  and  went  over 
the  brink  down  a  deep,  sliding  incline.  As  the 
cylinder  struck  the  ground  it  bounded,  and  the 
mule  bounded  with  it,  the  two  together  turning  a 
half-summersault;  for  a  brief  instant  the  mule's 
hoofs  touched  the  treacherous  slope,  then  over  he 
went  again,  and  for  a  second  time  the  resilient 
cylinder  struck  the  ground  and  once  more  the  mule 
described  a  graceful  parabola  through  the  atmos- 
phere. A  dozen  times  this  touching  scene  was 
repeated  before  the  mule  reached  the  bottom.  The 
arriero  watched  the  poor  animal  in  horror,  and 
when  the  final  bump  at  the  bottom  was  made 
listened  for  the  crunching  of  bones;  but  what  he 
heard  was  something  different.  The  last  bound 
landed  the  animal  feet  downward  in  a  sandy  wash; 
automatically  the  legs  stiffened,  the  neck  out- 
stretched, and  a  bray  that  shook  the  hill  came  from 
the  mule's  undaunted  throat.  But  thereafter  he 
walked  on  the  outside  of  the  trail. 

As  late  as  the  '70s  that  ancient  vehicle  of  Mexico, 
the  careta,  still  plied  up  and  down  the  Santa  Cruz 
Valley  between  Hermosillo  and  Tucson.  No  iron 
entered  into  the  construction  of  these  primitive 
two-wheeled  carts,  the  various  parts  being  fastened 
together  with  wooden  pins  and  strips  of  rawhide, 
while  the  wheels  were  formed  of  sections  of  tree 


TRANSPORTATION  AFTER  THE  WAR     247 

trunks.  To  them  were  usually  hitched  two  oxen 
with  the  bow  tied  to  their  horns.  One  always  knew 
when  a  careta  was  approaching,  even  before  it 
came  in  sight.  So  outrageous  was  the  squeak  of 
the  ungreased  axles  that  it  is  said  the  sound  of 
one  could  be  heard  in  Tubac  as  the  vehicle  crossed 
the  border  twenty  miles  below. 

In  vast  contrast  to  these  was  the  great  Concord 
stage-coach  which  has  been  mentioned  before. 
The  body  of  the  coach  was  hung  on  thorough- 
braces,  which  were  stout  leather  straps  attached 
to  C-springs,  front  and  rear,  and  which  made  a 
wonderfully  easy-riding  carriage. 

In  the  mid-"70s  a  stage  line  running  coaches 
like  these  carried  travelers  from  Dos  Palmas, 
California,  the  end  of  the  Southern  Pacific, 
through  Ehrenberg  to  Wickenburg,  where  one  line 
branched  through  Antelope  Valley  to  Prescott, 
while  the  main  line  went  via  the  Agua  Fria  to 
Phoenix  and  then  on  to  Florence  and  Tucson. 
In  the  '80s,  when  roads  of  one  kind  or  another 
had  been  opened  up  pretty  well  throughout  the 
Territory,  all  of  the  principal  towns  were  con- 
nected by  stage  service,  though  on  some  lines  buck- 
boards  or  covered  spring  wagons  would  be  used. 
Where  the  country  did  not  permit  roads,  a  pony 
express  would  be  established,  when  the  rider,  if 
his  trail  lay  in  the  Indian  country,  would  take  his 
letters  in  his  saddlebag  and  his  life  in  his  hands. 

One  early  express  w^as  established  in  June,  1864, 
by  Robertson  and  Parish,  which  went  from  Prescott 
via  La  Paz  to  California.     Another  line  carrying 


248  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

mail  from  Prescott  to  California  was  operated  by 
Duke  and  Company,  and  went  via  Mojave.  In 
those  days  the  mail  came  through  once  in  two 
weeks,  providing  the  carriers  were  not  stopped  by 
Apache  arrows.  Letters  could  be  sent  to  the  East 
from  Prescott  by  military  express  with  military 
escort,  though  both  soldiers  and  express  riders 
would  sometimes  be  killed. 

After  1878,  when  the  Southern  Pacific  reached 
Yuma,  passage  eastward  was  made  over  the  Kearns 
and  Mitchell  Stage  Line,  which  would  carry  a  pas- 
senger via  Tucson  to  Austin,  Texas,  for  $240.  Even 
as  late  as  1880,  mail  was  carried  via  buckboard 
stage  from  San  Bernardino,  through  Mojave  and 
Prescott  on  to  Santa  Fe.  In  the  '70s  two  stage  lines 
operated  between  Tucson  and  Sonora,  and  in  the 
early  '80s  a  thriving  business  was  done  on  the  Tuc- 
son-Tombstone Line. 

Drivers,  of  course,  were  chosen  for  their  brav- 
ery and  marksmanship  as  well  as  for  their  skill 
in  handling  horses.  When  valuable  expressage 
was  to  be  carried  there  would  be  a  messenger 
aboard  who,  besides  carrying  the  usual  six- 
shooter,  would  be  armed  with  a  sawed-off,  double- 
barreled  shotgun.  Often  enough  occasion  was 
found  to  use  it  against  road  agents  or  Indians. 

The  babbling  brook  does  not  enter  prominently 
into  Arizona  desert  scenery.  On  these  long,  hot, 
sandy  jornadas  the  only  water  for  travelers  or 
teams  would  be  obtained  at  desert  wells,  at  which 
the  stage  stations  were  located.  Water  would  be 
hauled  up  one  or  two  hundred  feet  in  a  barrel, 
and  the  windlass  which  raised  it  would  be  operated 


TRANSPORTATION  AFTER  THE  WAR     249 

by  a  plodding,  blindfolded  mule.  Besides  the  well 
and  the  corral  there  would  be  a  building  or  two 
where  supplies  both  liquid  and  otherwise  could  be 
obtained,  and  while  it  was  all  right  for  the  horse 
to  take  his  water  straight,  it  was  usually  expected 
that  the  human  traveler  would  precede  his  water 
with  something  stronger. 

All  freight  was  carried  in  high-sided  wagons. 
A  first-class  outfit  carrying  freight  from  Ehrenberg 
to  Prescott  would  consist  of  a  lead  wagon  and 
two  or  three  trailers,  and  would  be  drawn  by  from 
sixteen  to  twenty-four  mules,  driven  by  some  Over- 
land Jack  from  his  place  on  the  saddle  of  the 
"nigh"  wheeler.  Instead  of  a  handful  of  lines  used 
by  the  jehu  in  the  circus  parades,  Overland  Jack 
used  but  a  single  one — the  jerk-line.  One  long 
steady  pull  and  the  leaders  would  turn  with  the 
pull  to  the  right,  a  succession  of  jerks  and  the 
little  mules  in  front  would  turn  in  the  opposite 
direction. 

In  freighting  in  a  mountain  countrj%  bells  would 
be  fastened  to  the  beasts'  hames  so  that  in  going  up 
and  down  long,  narrow,  winding  grades  a  driver 
would  be  apprised  when  a  team  was  coming 
toward  him,  and  so  could  sidetrack  his  train  at  a 
passable  place. 

Every  freight  outfit,  besides  the  driver,  had 
a  swamper  who  rode  on  the  wagons,  looked  after 
the  load,  and  shared  the  responsibility  of  guarding 
the  cargo  in  case  of  attack.  Everj'  freighter,  at  all 
times,  kept  a  rifle  handy,  and  in  Apache  country 
prudent  drivers  would  go  in  as  large  companies 
as  possible. 


Chapter  XVIII 

ARIZONA  MINES  AFTER  THE  CIVIL 

WAR 

ARIZONA  has  ever  been  the  land  of  the  Golden 
Fleece.  It  was  the  lure  of  gold  that  induced 
the  viceroy  of  new  Spain  to  send  Fray  Mar- 
cos to  spy  out  the  land.  It  was  the  same  irresistible 
impulse  that  caused  Coronado  to  brave  desert  and 
death  in  his  expedition  to  the  legendary  Cibola; 
and,  though  he  returned  to  Mexico  broken-hearted 
in  the  belief  that  he  had  followed  a  will-of-the- 
wisp,  nevertheless  the  treasure  was  alwaj'^s  there, 
but  so  securely  locked  in  the  fastnesses  of  the  hills 
that  its  presence  was  not  suspected.  Little  by  little 
a  few  of  the  treasure  chests  of  Mother  Earth  were 
discovered  and  opened;  and,  haltingly,  with  many 
hopes  deferred  and  promises  unfulfilled,  with 
many  chance  successes  and  sudden  fortunes,  with 
riches  that  came  by  accident,  with  riches  that  came 
only  from  patient  toil  and  scientific  methods,  min- 
ing in  the  State  has  advanced  until  today  Arizona 
leads  the  nation  in  the  production  of  metallic 
wealth. 

It  ought  to  make  an  interesting  study,  this 
romance  of  Arizona's  treasure  troves,  yet  we  must 
confess  that  as  we  read  over  what  has  been  written 
here — for  this  introduction  is  set  down  last — we 
find  much  that  is  prosaic. 

250 


2       O 


■5"    fc 


ARIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAR     251 

The  story  of  a  mine  after  it  is  discovered — its 
transfers  from  one  set  of  men  to  another — is 
mostly  names  and  dates,  and  has  usually  the  same 
fascination  possessed  by  a  chronology,  as  for  in- 
stance in  Nehemiah:  "And  Jeshua  begat  Joiakim," 
and  "Joiakim  begat  Eliashib,"  and  "Eliashib  begat 
Joida,"  and  there  you  are.  So  we  have  begun  to 
wonder  if  the  reader,  to  get  the  true  romance  from 
a  chapter  on  mining,  should  not  do  considerable 
reading  between  the  lines.  We  see  how  the  mem- 
bers of  the  new  syndicate  that  acquired  the  mine 
made  a  million  dollars  in  three  months;  but  if  the 
reader  of  this  chapter  is  like  the  writer,  the  sen- 
tence means  but  little,  for  to  us  a  million  dollars 
is  a  wholly  mythical  amount.  Besides,  it  wasn't 
we  that  got  the  million;  we  do  not  even  know  the 
man.  It  is  hard  to  enthuse  to  the  boiling  point 
about  a  million  dollars  of  unearned  increment  ac- 
quired by  a  man  you  never  even  heard  of  before. 
We  would  rather  try  to  imagine  how  prospector 
John  Doe  felt  as  he  followed  up  his  line  of  float. 
Would  he  find  the  mother  lode  or  not,  and  would 
it  be  worth  anything  after  he  did  find  it? 

The  case  of  Richard  Roe  as,  with  swinging  pick, 
he  follows  his  tiny  vein,  also  has  its  interest. 
Would  it  widen  to  great  riches  or  would  it  pinch 
out  altogether?  What  was  in  his  mind  that  after- 
noon as  he  crimped  the  edges  of  the  cap  about  the 
fuse  with  his  teeth?  Certainly  not  that  the  ful- 
minate of  murcury  might  blow  his  fool  head  off. 
An  old  powder  man  forgets  that  part.  No,  he  was 
wondering  just  what  he  would  do  with  the  million 


252  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

dollars  he  would  get  if  the  shot  he  was  about  to 
fire  would  open  up  a  true  fissure  vein  about  six 
feet  wide  that  would  run  five  or  six  thousand  dol- 
lars of  gold  to  the  ton.  Some  way  we  find  it  easy 
to  get  en  rapport  with  that  man.  He  hasn't  ac- 
quired the  million  dollars  yet,  he  only  imagines 
what  he  would  do  with  the  million  dollars  if  he 
did  get  it.    Even  a  sheep  herder  can  feel  that  way. 

Then,  too,  we  can  be  interested  in  the  unusual, 
though  it  be  but  a  variation  of  the  old  story  of  the 
burro,  the  mule  or  the  horse  that  led  the  prospector 
straight  to  the  biggest  mine  in  all  the  country. 
(By  the  way,  think  of  all  of  the  mines  that  would 
be  still  undiscovered,  and  the  fortunes  that  would 
be  still  unmade  and  undrunk  if  the  old-time  pros- 
pectors had  used  Fords,  and  all  the  burros  had 
been  turned  into  "bastrama"  and  eaten,  as  they  say 
the  program  is  to  be  from  now  on.) 

Yet  putting  persiflage  aside,  there  are  few 
stories  bigger  than  those  concerning  the  lure  of 
the  metals.  Men  have  been  crushed  to  death  in 
drifts  to  obtain  gold  for  a  woman's  jewels — or  to 
save  a  country;  they  have  been  scorched  at  smelter 
mouths  to  reclaim  silver  for  a  magnate's  side- 
board— or  copper  to  carry  power  across  a  con- 
tinent. 

Perhaps  the  biggest  story  of  all  is  that  which 
tells  how  one  man,  out  of  the  strength  of  his  own 
mind  and  will,  wrings  success  where  all  others 
have  lost.  A  mine  wrecks  company  after  com- 
pany; then  comes  a  new  syndicate  with  a  master 
mind  at  its  head,  and  failure  is  turned  to  success. 


ARIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAR     253 

It  is  a  battle,  not  of  cannon  and  sword,  but  of 
chemistry  and  modern  eiliciency.  If  refractory 
ores  can  be  worked  for  so  much  the  fight  is  won, 
if  the  cost  is  but  a  few  cents  more  per  ton,  the  fight 
is  lost.  The  battle  ground  is  the  laboratory — the 
strategists  are  the  chemists  and  the  efficiency 
engineers. 

Finally  there  is  the  part  played  by  the  man 
with  the  pick — a  story  of  muscle  and  sweat  and 
danger.  It  would  take  a  Victor  Hugo  to  depict 
that! 

Returning  to  our  narrative,  we  have  seen  how 
mineral  locations  along  the  present  Mexican  Bor- 
der were  first  worked  in  a  small  way  by  the 
Spaniards  in  the  eighteenth  century;  we  have  also 
noted  briefly  the  mining  of  Americans,  who,  like 
Ehrenberg  and  Poston,  came  into  the  Santa  Cruz 
Valley  in  1854;  of  the  shafts  that  were  dug  in 
spite  of  the  hostility  of  the  savages;  of  the  mills 
and  furnaces  that  were  successfully  constructed, 
though  the  lumber  had  to  be  w^hipsawed  and 
brought  from  mountain  tops  and  all  the  machinery 
hauled  over  many  weary  miles  of  desert. 

The  Ajo  copper  mines,  in  the  southern  part  of 
the  State,  were  operated  in  the  fifties,  and  the 
placers  of  the  lower  Gila,  worked  about  the  same 
time,  yielded  fortunes.  In  the  second  year  of  the 
Civil  War,  placers  were  discovered  along  the 
Colorado,  and  by  reason  of  their  being,  towns  like 
La  Paz,  which  was  situated  on  the  Colorado,  124 
miles  above  Yuma,  and  once  boasted  of  a  popu- 
lation of  five  thousand  people,  sprang  into  exis- 


254  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

tence.  The  glory  of  La  Paz  was  short  lived,  for 
Ehrenberg,  six  miles  farther  up  the  river,  on  ac- 
count of  its  better  steamboat  landing,  in  1863,  took 
the  population  away  from  the  earlier  town  and 
left  it  an  abode  for  owls  and  coyotes. 

Before  the  placer  excitement  ended,  in  1864, 
$2,000,000  in  gold  had  been  taken  from  the  sands  of 
Yuma  County,  whereupon  mining  interests  shifted 
to  lodes. 

In  recent  years  placer  mining  has  revived  in 
Yuma  County.  In  the  Plomosa  district,  east  of  the 
Colorado,  in  the  Posas  Valley,  from  1904  to  1912, 
gold  to  the  value  of  $32,314  has  been  taken  from 
sand,  and  from  other  districts,  from  1906  to  1912, 
$52,985. 

In  spite  of  the  continual  hostility  of  the  Hual- 
pais,  who  had  the  disagreeable  habit  of  shooting 
arrows  at  miners  from  ambush,  prospecting  in 
Mojave  County  began  as  early  as  1858,  and  mines 
were  worked  in  considerable  numbers  from  1863. 
There  was  every  evidence  that  the  country  was 
exceedingly  rich  in  minerals.  From  1880  to  1883 
the  county  is  said  to  have  produced  $60,000  in  gold 
and  $485,000  in  silver.  According  to  Hinton,  the 
product  in  1887  was  $200,000  per  month.  One  of 
the  biggest  of  the  early  discoveries  was  the  Moss 
gold  mine,  near  Hardyville.  It  is  reported  that,  in 
1865,  two  tons  of  its  ore  netted  $185,000  in  gold. 
The  McCracken  and  Signal,  in  the  southern  part 
of  the  county,  were  located  in  1874,  and  yielded  a 
total  of  over  a  million  dollars  before  they  sus- 
pended operations  in  1880.    Hinton  states  that  up 


ARIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAR      255 

to  1876,  2,000  claims  had  been  recorded  in  the 
county. 

Mojave  County  is  now  dotted  with  rich  mines, 
so  many  indeed  that  our  limited  space  will  not 
permit  even  a  recital  of  the  names.  Mention,  how- 
ever, must  be  made  of  the  Tom  Reed,  in  the  Oat- 
man  district,  which  in  six  years  produced  over 
$4,000,000  in  gold.  The  Gold  Roads  is  also  a  heavy 
producer  of  the  yellow  metal. 

Valuable  turquoise  deposits  have  been  found 
near  Mineral  Park,  southeast  of  Chloride. 

Both  placer  and  lode  mining  were  actively  en- 
gaged in  during  the  early  years  after  the  war,  in 
Yavapai  County,  which  at  that  time  included  all 
of  Arizona  north  of  the  Gila  and  east  of  Yuma 

y  About  Prescott,  gold  indications  were  found 
all  through  the  hills,  and  almost  every  stream  had 
rich  placers.  The  leading  mining  districts  were 
Weaver,  Hassayampa,  Lynx  Creek,  Turkey  Creek, 
HiUHbrrg,  Peck  and  Date  Creek.— 

Bancroft  gives  the  gold  products  of  Yavapai,  in 
1873,  as  $103,600;  and  from  1880  to  1883  as  $110,- 
000.  The  silver  production  in  1880-83  is  given  at 
nearly  two  million. 

It  is  interesting  to  read  the  names  that  the  early 
Yavapai  miners  gave  the  prospects  from  which 
they  hoped  to  derive  their  fortunes.  The  senti- 
mental ones  chose  such  appellations  as  "Aurora," 
"Naiad  Queen,"  "Minnehaha,"  "Mezeppa,"  "Sun- 
rise" and  "Sunset."  Some  practical  miners  simply 
set  down  their  claims  as  "Brunson  and  Barnum," 


/ 


256  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

or  "Hatz  and  Collier";  the  more  fanciful  christened 
their  properties  the  "Big  Bug,"  "Black  Jack," 
"Little  Joker,"  "Jack-on-the-Green,"  "Plug  Ugly" 
and  the  like.  An  optimist  records  his  mine  as 
"Hidden  Treasure,"  while  a  pessimist  labels  his, 
in  advance,  "Little  Fraud." 

The  Vulture 

The  greatest  of  all  Yavapai  County's  mines 
(now  a  part  of  Maricopa)  and  indeed  the  richest 
gold  mine  of  the  State,  was  the  Vulture,  situated 
eleven  miles  west  of  Wickenburg.  It  was  dis- 
covered in  1863  by  Henry  Wickenburg,  who  gave 
his  name  to  the  town.  The  old  prospector  knew 
that  he  had  a  mine  the  moment  he  saw  it,  for 
scattered  over  the  surface  of  the  ground  were 
pieces  of  quartz  from  which  gold  could  be  picked 
out  with  a  pocket  knife.  There  was  no  water  at 
the  Vulture  and  all  of  the  ore  had  to  be  hauled 
over  a  desert  road  to  the  Hassayampa  River,  where 
it  was  reduced  in  arastras  which  had  been  set  up 
by  contractors,  who  would  buy  the  ore  from  Wick- 
enburg at  the  mine,  paying  him  fifteen  dollars  a 
ton  for  it,  and  taking  out  the  ore  themselves.  The 
main  Vulture  claim  was  sold  to  B.  Phelps,  a  New 
York  mining  man,  in  1866,  for  $75,000.  There- 
after it  changed  hands  many  times  before  the  lode 
was  finally  exhausted.  It  has  been  said  that  alto- 
gether $10,000,000  in  gold  was  taken  from  the 
mine. 

Other  prominent  Yavapai  mines  included  the 
Tiger,  the  Peck,  the  Tip  Top,  and  the  Senator, 


ARIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAR     257 

Octave,  and  Congress.  The  richest  placers  of  the 
county  were  at  Lynx  Creek  where  over  a  million 
dollars  was  taken  from  the  gravel.  Altogether, 
Rich  Hill,  in  the  Weaver  district,  yielded  a  half  a 
million  dollars  in  nuggets,  from  an  acre,  on  its 
four-thousand  foot  summit,  and  another  half  a 
million  from  the  gulches  on  its  sides.  Placer  min- 
ing in  the  Weaver  district  from  1905  to  1912  pro- 
duced $55,417  in  gold. 

A  half  million  dollar  smelter,  now  operating 
at  Humboldt,  handles  the  ores  for  numbers  of 
small  Yavapai  County  mines.  There  are  also 
operating  mills  at  Crown  King  and  Mayer. 

The  Monte  Christo  mine,  a  few  miles  northeast 
of  Wickenburg,  is  a  silver-copper  property  of  great 
promise,  its  thorough  development  work  showing 
a  splendid  body  of  ore. 

The  United  Verde  Extension  in  1916  opened  up 
a  wonderfully  rich  body  of  copper  ore,  and  stock 
in  the  company,  which  had  gone  begging  at  fifty 
cents,  rose  to  $42.00 

The  Silver  King 

In  Pinal  County,  which  was  organized  from 
parts  of  Maricopa,  Pima  and  Yavapai  in  1875, 
975  mining  claims  were  recorded  by  1876.  The 
county  in  its  early  days  was  noted  for  its  richness 
in  silver  mines.  Nine  tons  of  ore  from  the  Stone- 
wall Jackson  yielded  $200,000  in  silver,  and  in 
1881  the  Mack  Morris  mine  in  Richmond  Basin 
produced  $300,000  of  the  same  metal,  but  the 
greatest  of  all  of  the  county's  silver  mines,  indeed 

17 


258  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

the  greatest  in  the  State,  was  the  wonderful  Silver 
King,  on  the  western  side  of  the  Pinal  range,  whose 
mill  was  located  at  Pinal. 

It  was  discovered,  in  1872,  by  a  soldier  by  the 
name  of  Sullivan  who  had  no  proper  appreciation 
of  the  value  of  the  black,  metallic  lumps  which 
flattened  when  he  pounded  them  with  a  hammer. 
Charles  G.  Mason,  a  rancher  for  whom  Sullivan 
afterwards  worked,  knew  the  lumps  for  silver, 
and  later,  after  Sullivan  had  left  his  employ,  made 
several  attempts  to  find  the  lost  mine.  In  1875 
Mason,  with  four  companions,  while  returning 
from  the  Silver  Queen  in  the  Globe  district  with 
a  pack  train  of  ore,  was  attacked  by  Apaches  and 
one  of  their  number  killed.  The  body  was  buried 
at  a  temporary  military  post  at  the  summit  of 
Stoneman's  grade  called  Camp  Supply,  and  when 
the  miners  reached  the  bottom  of  the  grade,  Isaac 
Copeland,  one  of  the  party,  went  in  search  of  a 
mule  and  found  it  standing  on  some  croppings  at 
the  side  of  the  trail.  He  broke  off  a  piece  of  the 
metal;  one  look  at  it  was  enough.  It  was  the  black 
stuff  that  Mason  had  talked  about!  The  lost  mine 
was  found !  A  partnership  to  own  the  Silver  King, 
as  the  property  was  christened,  was  formed,  with 
each  of  the  party — Mason,  Copeland,  W.  H.  Long, 
and  B.  W.  Regan — taking  one-fourth  interest.  Cope- 
land and  Long  soon  sold  out  to  their  partners  for 
$80,000,  and  the  two  who  stayed  in  made  more  than 
that  out  of  the  profits  during  the  next  six  months. 
Mason,  who  then  thought  it  was  a  good  time  to  sell, 
parted  with  his  holdings  to  Col.   S.  M.  Barney, 


ARIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAR     259 

of  Yuma,  for  a  quarter  of  a  million  dollars,  and 
Ragan  also  later  sold  his  interest  to  Barney  for 
three  hundred  thousand. 

The  editor  of  the  Pinal  Drill  puts  a  fine  denoue- 
ment on  the  story.  "Several  years  later  when  the 
Silver  King  was  in  full  operation  an  aged  man 
came  slowly  into  the  settlement  of  "Picket  Post" 
(Pinal's  original  name)  and  gazed  with  interest  at 
the  busy  scene  about  him.  He  went  to  the  office 
of  the  Company  and  announced  himself  as  Sulli- 
van, the  old  soldier,  the  original  discoverer  of  the 
mine,  and  asked  for  work.  He  was  identified,  and 
taken  into  the  Company's  employ.  He  had  been 
working  as  a  farm  hand  in  California,  trying  to  ob- 
tain sufficient  means  to  return  to  Arizona." 

The  Silver  Queen  referred  to  in  the  Silver  King 
story  was  abandoned  after  being  worked  a  num- 
ber of  years  because,  as  the  workings  went  deeper 
in  the  ground,  the  silver  ore  was  so  mixed  with 
copper  that,  with  the  then  methods,  it  could  not  be 
worked  with  profit. 

Now  it  is  the  successful  Magma  mine  producing 
gold,  silver  and  copper,  working  275  men  and  tak- 
ing out  225  tons  of  ore  daily. 

Pinal  County's  placer  mines  are  limited  to  the 
"Old  Hat"  district  where  $7,106  in  gold  was  mined 
from  1903  to  1912.  There  is  a  tradition  of  a  lump 
of  gold  weighing  16  pounds  being  found  in  the 
gravel  and  that  the  finder  was  murdered  for  his 
treasure. 

Within  the  counties  of  Pima  and  Santa  Cruz, 
wherein  lies  the  Santa  Cruz  Valley,  which,  as  we 


260  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

have  seen,  was  the  home  of  the  earliest  worked 
mines  in  Arizona,  are  still  to  be  found  properties 
rich  in  gold,  silver,  copper  and  lead. 

The  World's  Fair  mine,  situated  two  miles  west 
of  Harshaw,  located  in  1879,  has  produced  since 
that  date  over  a  million  of  dollars  in  the  four  prin- 
cipal Arizona  metals. 

The  R.  R.  R.  mine  in  the  Palermo  district  is  also 
a  million  dollar  producer,  its  total  products  equal- 
ing that  amount  between  May,  1911,  and  October, 
1914.    It  is  now  closed  on  account  of  litigation. 

Placer  mines  in  the  Quijotoa  district  washed 
out  $30,268  in  gold  between  1903  and  1912,  and 
in  the  Greaterville  district  $30,294  within  the  same 
period.  It  is  estimated  that  the  total  Greaterville 
placer  production  to  date  amounts  to  $7,000,000. 

Aside  from  the  copper  mines,  which  are  con- 
sidered elsewhere,  the  rich  silver  mines  of  the 
Tombstone  district  occupy  first  place  in  Cochise 
County  history,  both  as  to  value  of  output  and 
romantic  interest.  In  the  winter  of  1877-1878  a 
tall,  lanky  prospector  drove  his  burro  over  the 
Apache-infested  mountains  east  of  the  San  Pedro. 
His  clothing  was  worn  and  patched  with  deer  and 
rabbit  skins,  his  long,  scraggy  beard  was  as  un- 
kempt as  his  hair.  His  name  was  Ed  Schieffelin. 
One  day  as  he  started  out  from  the  Brunckow 
mines,  where  he  had  been  doing  assessment  work, 
a  friend  shouted  to  him,  "Whar  ye  goin',  Ed?" 

"Just  over  the  hills  to  look  for  stones,"  called 
back  the  prospector. 

"Wal,"  commented  the  friend  cheerfully,  "the 


ARIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAR     261 

most  likely  stone  for  you  to  find  will  be  your  tomb- 
stone." 

After  that,  when  SchiefTelin  came  upon  the  rich 
silver  float,  and  traced  it  to  a  ledge  which  looked 
wonderfully  promising,  he  said  grimly,  "This 
tombstone  is  sure  good  enough  for  me." 

Schieffelin  took  a  sample  of  the  ore  to  the  Sig- 
nal Mill  in  Mojave  County,  where  his  brother  was 
living.  Much  impressed  by  its  richness,  as  well  as 
by  Schieffelin's  story,  a  party  was  made  up,  and  re- 
turned to  the  claim.  Although  the  original  loca- 
tion was  of  but  moderate  value,  later  claims  were 
richer,  and  soon  the  Tombstone  boom  was  on. 

Following  the  usual  custom  in  telling  of  the  dis- 
covery of  a  mine,  we  now  introduce  a  mule — in 
fact,  several.  These  particular  mules  belonged  to 
Ed  Williams,  and  one  of  them,  as  he  wandered  off, 
trailed  a  tie-chain  behind  him.  The  next  morning, 
following  the  trail,  Williams  noticed  a  metallic 
gleam  where  the  chain  had  worn  the  surface  of  the 
rock,  and,  behold,  the  great  Contention  mine  was 
discovered!  To  settle  the  "contention"  that  gave 
the  claim  its  name,  Williams  and  his  partner  took 
the  upper  end  of  the  property,  which  they  called 
the  Grand  Central,  and  Schieffelin  and  his  friends 
acquired  the  lower — the  Contention.  Schieffelin 
soon  sold  the  Contention  for  $10,000.  Afterwards 
it  produced  millions. 

The  seven  big  mining  companies  operating  in 
the  Tombstone  district  were,  the  Contention,  Con- 
solidated, the  Tombstone  Mining  Co.,  the  Grand 
Central,  the  Empire,  the  Stonewall  and  the  Vizina. 


262  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

At  a  depth  of  500  feet  water  was  struck  in  the  Sul- 
phuret  shaft  and  in  such  quantities  that  the  cost 
to  pump  it  was  practically  prohibitive.  However, 
pumps  were  installed  in  the  Contention  and  the 
Grand  Central,  but  the  underground  flow  ran  from 
one  mine  to  another,  and  as  the  owners  of  the 
other  properties  refused  to  join  with  the  com- 
panies which  were  pumping,  work  of  necessity  was 
soon  abandoned.  The  final  shutting  down  of  the 
Contention  occurred  in  1886  when  the  surface 
works  burned. 

An  attempt  was  made  by  E.  B.  Gage  and  asso- 
ciates, in  1901,  to  once  more  operate  the  Tomb- 
stone mines.  They  sunk  a  new  shaft  near  the  old 
Contention,  going  down  1,080  feet.  When  water 
was  encountered  they  installed  the  most  efficient 
system  of  pumps  their  engineers  could  devise,  but 
the  result  was  a  failure.  At  the  maximum  they 
were  pumping  8,000,000  gallons  of  water  a  day,  for 
which  time  the  fuel  cost  alone  was  $700. 

COPPER 

While  it  has  been  estimated  that  the  dividends 
from  gold,  silver  and  lead  produced  in  the  early 
days  of  Arizona's  history  amounted  to  $100,000,000, 
it  was  not  until  the  great  copper  properties  of  the 
State  had  begun  to  be  developed  that  Arizona 
really  became  a  world  power  in  the  wealth  of  its 
minerals,  producing  in  one  year,  1916,  metals  to 
the  value  of  $203,000,000. 

The  bulk  of  the  great  copper  production  of  the 


AEIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAE     263 

State  comes  from  eleven  companies,  which  are  in 
order  of  dividend  amounts  paid,  The  Copper 
Queen,  United  Verde,  Calumet  and  Arizona, 
Arizona  Copper,  Old  Dominion  (consolidated 
companies),  Detroit  Copper,  Superior  &  Pittsburg, 
Miami  Copper,  Shattuck  Arizona,  Shannon  Copper 
and  Ray  Consolidated,  which  have  paid  dividends 
of  record  to  1916,  amounting  to  $225,000,000. 

The  Copper  Queen 

To  Jack  Dunn,  a  Government  scout,  belongs  the 
honor  of  discovering  the  Copper  Queen,  one  of  the 
greatest  copper  producing  mines  in  the  world.  In 
1877  while  on  a  scouting  trip  in  the  Mule  Pass 
Mountains,  where  the  city  of  Bisbee  now  stands, 
he  noticed  some  copper  float  that  looked  promis- 
ing. 

Returning  from  his  trip,  Dunn,  at  Ft.  Bowie, 
met  George  Warren,  a  prospector  of  the  average 
shiftless,  optimistic  type,  told  him  about  his  find, 
and  grubstaked  him  on  the  usual  basis  that  the 
man  who  furnished  the  provisions  should  own  half 
the  property  found.  John  Cady,  an  Arizona  pio- 
neer, says  that  Warren  was  also  grubstaked  about 
this  time  by  George  Stephens  at  Eureka  Springs. 
In  any  event,  on  December  27,  1877,  Warren,  with 
four  others  (neither  Dunn's  nor  Stephen's  names 
appearing)  located  the  Mercey  claim,  which  was 
afterwards  called  the  Copper  Queen. 

During  the  next  few  months  a  number  of  other 
claims  were  located,  in  several  of  which  Warren 
had  an  interest,  but  his  finds  did  him  little  good; 


264  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

he  soon  sold  out  whatever  interest  he  had  in  the 
various  properties  and  squandered  the  money.  It 
is  said  that  he  lost  one  claim  in  a  drunken  wager 
over  a  horse  race.  Warren  drank  himself  into 
poverty — almost  to  dementia — and  after  living  a 
number  of  years  on  a  pension  from  the  Copper 
Queen  Company,  died  at  Bisbee. 

The  modern  development  of  the  great  Copper 
Queen  mine  may  be  said  to  have  had  its  genesis  in 
1880  with  the  arrival  of  Dr.  James  Douglas  who 
had  just  come  from  the  inspection  of  the  United 
Verde.  At  that  time  Edward  Riley,  who  had  taken 
a  bond  on  the  mine,  had  disposed  of  it  to  a  San 
Francisco  firm  of  engineers,  Martin  and  Ballard, 
who  erected  a  small  furnace  and  smeltered  some 
ore. 

Upon  recommendation  of  Doctor  Douglas,  the 
Phelps-Dodge  Company  purchased  property  ad- 
joining the  Martin-Ballard-Riley  claim  at  a  cost  of 
$40,000.  It  is  said  that  both  mines,  seemingly,  had 
about  exhausted  their  paying  ore,  when  a  foreman, 
J.  W.  Howell,  on  his  own  initiative  and  against  or- 
ders, started  a  drift  which  finally  broke  into  a  re- 
markably rich  body  of  ore. 

Afterwards  the  Copper  Queen  acquired  the 
Holbrook,  Neptune  and  other  properties  which  ul- 
timately became  their  most  profitable  holdings. 

Copper  Queen  ores  average  about  six  per  cent 
copper.  The  present  operating  company  (1918) 
employs  3,000  men  and  handles  2,500  tons  of  ore 
daily.  Its  great  smelters,  models  of  their  kind,  are 
located  at  Douglas. 


AEIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAR     265 

Calumet  and  Arizona 

The  Calumet  and  Arizona  mines,  which  rank 
third  in  the  state  as  dividend  payers,  are  also  in 
the  Warren  district.  The  original  owner  of  the 
Irish  Mag,  which  became  the  nucleus  of  the  proper- 
ties of  the  company,  was  a  queer,  misanthropic 
character  named  James  Daley,  who  lived  in 
Mule  Gulch,  in  the  outskirts  of  Bisbee.  In  re- 
sisting arrest,  Daley  shot  an  officer  and  fled  into 
Mexico.  Afterwards  a  saloon  keeper  by  the  name 
of  Andy  Mehan  produced  a  bill  of  sale  of  the  mine 
to  himself  which  bill  of  sale  was  attached  by 
Cohan  Brothers,  merchants  living  in  Tombstone. 
A  second  claimant  for  Daley's  mine  was  Martin 
Costello,  who  acquired  the  title  by  buying  the 
claim  of  a  Mexican  woman  who  said  she  was 
Daley's  legal  widow.  A  second  wife  and  third 
claimant  appeared  on  the  scene  from  Leadville. 
The  outcome  of  the  litigation,  which  lasted  for  ten 
years,  was  that  Costello  got  the  mine,  which  he  sold 
to  the  "C.  &  A."  for  over  a  half  million  of  dollars. 

The  mine  is  a  deep  one.  At  the  850-foot  level 
small  bunches  of  ore  were  found,  and  at  the  1,050, 
a  splendid  body  of  copper-bearing  rock  was  en- 
countered out  of  which  over  $10,000,000  was  paid 
in  dividends. 

A  small  smelter  was  built  near  Douglas,  which 
was  put  in  operation  in  November,  1902.  Follow- 
ing a  policy  of  expansion,  development  companies 
were  formed,  these  being  known  as  the  Junction 
Development  Company,  the  Pittsburg  and  Duluth 
Development  Company,  the  Calumet  and  Pitts- 


266  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

burg  Development  Company,  and  the  Lake  Su- 
perior and  Pittsburg  Company,  and  in  1910  all 
were  brought  into  the  Calumet  and  Arizona  Min- 
ing Company,  giving  the  latter  organization  more 
than  2,000  acres  of  mineral  land.  One  of  the  latest 
acquisitions  of  the  Company,  as  noted  elsewhere, 
is  the  New  Cornelia  property  at  Ajo. 

The  Shattuck  Arizona 

The  Shattuck  Arizona  is  a  neighbor  of  the  Cop- 
per Queen  and  the  Calumet  and  Arizona,  and 
though  its  output  is  given  as  only  about  500  tons 
daily,  it  is  ninth  on  the  list  of  dividend  producers. 
It  is  often  called  the  "Biggest  Little  Mine,"  for 
while  its  surface  area  is  small,  it  is  big  in  every 
other  way. 

Its  cost  of  production  for  1912  was  given  as  7.22 
cents  on  13,000,000  pounds  of  copper. 

It  is  interesting  to  note  that  the  Shattuck  con- 
tains a  larger  variety  of  minerals  and  produces 
commercially  more  different  minerals  than  any 
other  mine  in  the  State.  Some  of  its  ores  have  high 
values  in  gold  and  silver. 

A  drift  on  the  300-foot  level  encountered  a  cave, 
wonderful  in  its  beauty,  with  a  stalactite-studded 
dome  eighty  feet  high,  about  which  hang  coral- 
like  deposits  in  many  beautiful  colors. 

The  United  Verde 

The  United  Verde,  Senator  W.  A.  Clark's  great 
mine  at  Jerome,  is  perhaps  the  best  known  copper 
mine  in  the  State.     The  earliest  location  in  the 


AEIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAR     267 

Black  Hills  section,  where  the  mine  is  situated,  is 
supposed  to  have  been  made,  in  1877,  by  General 
Crook's  famous  scout,  Al.  W.  Sieber,  and  called 
the  Verde  from  the  river,  not  far  away. 

In  1877  the  Verde  mining  district  was  organized. 
Among  the  owners  of  locations  in  the  district  a 
little  later  were  Angus  and  John  McKinnon,  who 
were  working  the  Wade  Hampton.  In  1882  they 
sold  their  claim  to  F.  F.  Thomas,  who  believing 
that  a  big  mine  lay  within  the  steep  hillsides, 
bonded  the  adjoining  Eureka,  the  Hermit,  the 
Azure  and  the  Adventure  Chromes,  and  took  in 
George  A.  Treadwell,  the  mining  expert,  as  a  part- 
ner. The  United  Verde  Copper  Company  was  or- 
ganized in  1883  with  Thomas  as  superintendent 
and  general  manager.  A  fifty  ton  smelter  was 
built. 

While  the  smelting  of  the  ores  proved  the  mine 
to  be  wonderfully  rich,  not  only  in  copper  but  in 
silver  as  well,  reduction  processes  were  primitive 
and  transportation  to  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Rail- 
road at  Ash  Fork  was  so  expensive  that  in  1884, 
when  copper  was  worth  about  seven  cents  a  pound, 
the  mine  was  shut  down. 

Governor  F.  A.  Tritle  secured  a  bond  and  lease 
on  the  property  in  1887,  but  conditions  did  not  im- 
prove enough  to  put  the  mine  on  a  paying  basis. 
Still,  much  rich  ore  was  taken  out  and  Governor 
Tritle  was  a  lavish  host  to  the  many  visitors  who 
came  to  Jerome  to  inspect  the  mine. 

At  the  request  of  Governor  Tritle,  Prof.  James 
Douglas,  who  afterwards  was  prominent  in  the 


268  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

development  of  the  Bisbee  mines,  examined  the 
United  Verde  properties,  but  finally  reported  that 
he  thought  the  mine  too  far  away  from  a  railroad 
to  be  worked  profitably. 

Soon  after,  Senator  Clark  visited  the  camp, 
bringing  with  him  his  mining  experts,  J.  L.  Giroux 
and  John  L.  Thompson.  As  a  result  of  their  inves- 
tigations Clark  purchased  the  mine,  and  under  sci- 
entific development,  turned  it  into  one  of  the 
greatest  paying  properties  in  America.  He  built  a 
narrow-gauge  railroad  from  the  Sante  Fe  Prescott 
and  Phoenix  to  the  mine  in  1894,  and  in  1915  aban- 
doned the  smelter  which  was  located  at  Jerome, 
and  now  reduces  all  of  the  Company's  ores  at 
Clarkdale  on  the  Verde,  where  at  an  expense  of 
$3,000,000  there  has  been  constructed  a  plant  that 
is  one  of  the  most  perfect  of  its  kind  in  the  world. 

The  Old  Dominion 

The  first  locations  of  record  in  the  Globe  dis- 
trict were  the  Globe  and  the  Globe  Ledge  claims, 
which  were  made  in  1873  by  a  group  of  prospectors 
from  Florence.  Their  locations  were  made  on  a 
large  iron  and  copper  stained  out-crop,  which  is 
now  a  part  of  the  Old  Dominion  mine.  The  cop- 
per claims  received  but  little  attention  for  the  first 
few  years  as,  encouraged  by  such  findings  as  the 
Silver  King,  prospectors  were  looking  for  rich  gold 
and  silver  ores. 

The  first  mining  camp  to  be  established  in  the 
district  was  called  Ramboz,  after  its  founder,  a 
miner  by  the  name  of  Henry  Ramboz. 


ARIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAR     269 

On  account  of  better  location  and  water  supply, 
in  about  1876,  a  camp  was  located  on  Pinal  Creek, 
near  the  Globe  claims,  which  name  was  given  to 
the  settlement. 

Numerous  mines  in  the  vicinity  that  became 
famous  for  their  rich  silver  ore  include  the  McMil- 
len,  the  Mack  Morris  (sometimes  spelled  MacMor- 
ris),  the  Stonewall  Jackson  and  others.  Records 
of  production  are  non-existent,  yet  the  mines 
around  the  McMillen  are  estimated  to  have  pro- 
duced about  $750,000,  of  which  $600,000  came  from 
the  Stonewall  Jackson.  The  Mack  Morris,  which 
was  located  in  the  Richmond  Basin,  is  credited 
with  producing  $650,000. 

Gradually,  however,  the  claims  of  copper  began 
to  attract  attention  and,  in  1881,  the  Old  Dominion 
was  mining  carbonate  and  silicate  copper  ore  on 
the  Chicago  and  New  York  claims  near  Bloody 
Tanks,  about  a  mile  and  one-half  from  the  present 
town  of  Miami,  and  erected  a  thirty-ton  furnace. 
The  deposit  was  soon  exhausted  and  the  furnace 
was  moved  to  the  Globe,  where  the  Globe  Ledge 
and  other  claims  were  grouped  under  the  name  of 
the  Old  Dominion  mines. 

In  1886,  the  high  cost  of  operation  and  the  low 
price  of  copper  proved  too  great  a  handicap  for 
the  operators  to  overcome,  and  bj'^  the  end  of  the 
year  the  mines  closed  down.  The  Old  Dominion 
up  to  that  time  is  reported  to  have  produced  23,- 
000,000  pounds  of  copper  besides  some  gold  and 
silver.  The  company  was  reorganized  in  1888  and 
again  in  1895,  when  there  was  formed  the  Old  Do- 


270  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

minion  Copper  Mining  and  Smelting  Company, 
which  is  operating  the  property  at  the  present  day. 
The  Old  Dominion  is  fifth  in  the  list  of  the 
State's  largest  dividend  producers.  It  has  1,400 
men  on  its  payroll  and  about  500  tons  of  ore  are 
taken  out  daily. 

Miami  Copper 

The  Miami  Copper  Company's  mines,  eighth  in 
the  State's  list  of  dividend  producers,  are  situated 
at  Miami,  a  short  distance  west  and  north  of  Globe, 
where  low,  red,  iron-stained  hills  in  the  early  '90s 
induced  "Black  Jack"  Newman,  Jim  Falls,  J.  P. 
Gates  and  others  to  make  location  on  the  ground 
now  owned  by  the  Miami  Copper  Company. 

For  a  number  of  years  but  little  consistent  de- 
velopment work  was  done.  In  1906  the  owners  of 
many  claims  grouped  their  locations  and  Fred  Als- 
dorf  and  F.  J.  Elliott  took  an  option  on  them,  and 
soon  afterwards  had  the  location  examined  by  J. 
Park  Channing,  consulting  engineer  of  the  General 
Development  Company,  a  Lewisohn  corporation, 
who  was  negotiating  for  the  Inspiration  claims. 
As  a  result,  the  General  Development  Company 
took  over  the  Alsdorf-Elliott  option  and,  in  1906, 
started  development  work.  Three  per  cent  ore  was 
found  for  a  total  vertical  depth  of  490  feet,  and 
by  November,  1907,  there  were  about  a  million  tons 
of  ore  in  sight. 

The  Miami  Copper  Company  was  organized 
with  a  capital  of  $3,000,000  which  was  later  in- 
creased to  $4,000,000.    The  company's  president  is 


AEIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAR     271 

Adolph  Lewisohn.    About  one  thousand  men  are 
employed. 

Arizona  Copper 

The  mines  of  the  Arizona  Copper  Company, 
Ltd.,  are  situated  in  the  Clifton-Morenci  district 
with  the  mill  at  Morenci  and  smelter  in  the  out- 
skirts of  Clifton. 

Among  the  earliest  copper  properties  to  be 
worked  in  the  State  were  some  in  this  district,  al- 
though it  lay  right  in  the  heart  of  the  Apache  coun- 
try, and  every  prospecting  party  entering  it  did  so 
at  infinite  risk. 

Henry  Clifton,  whose  name  is  now  borne  by  the 
mining  town,  was  the  first  prospector  to  enter  the 
district  and  notice  the  promise  of  its  copper  indi- 
cations. At  that  time,  however,  the  Apaches  were 
so  hostile  that  the  discoveries  were  not  followed 
up.  In  1870,  a  party  of  46  miners  came  over  the 
mountains  from  Pinos  Altos,  New  Mexico,  found 
a  little  gold  and  two  years  later  located  the  Ari- 
zona, Central,  Yankie  and  Moctezuma.  The  same 
year  the  famous  Longfellow,  which  developed  into 
the  first  notably  rich  copper  producer  in  the  State, 
was  located  by  Robert  Metcalfe. 

By  1873  mining  was  actively  prosecuted  in  the 
district,  and  the  Leszj^nskys  were  operating  an 
adobe  smelter  in  the  district  below  the  Longfellow, 
and,  although  of  crudest  construction  and  using 
charcoal  for  fuel,  it  managed  to  work  something 
like  a  ton  of  ore  a  day. 

To  solve  the  problem  of  getting  the  ore  from 


272  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

the  Longfellow  to  the  smelter  at  Clifton,  the  first 
railroad  in  the  Territory  was  built.  The  track  was 
twenty-inch  gauge,  and  was  operated  by  mule 
power  until,  in  1880,  a  four-ton  locomotive,  the 
Little  Emma,  was  hauled  into  the  district  by 
freight  wagons,  put  together  and  set  down  upon  the 
toy  track.  Its  duty  was  to  haul  the  empty  ore  cars 
to  the  mine.  On  the  return  trip  when  the  ore  cars 
were  full,  gravity  supplied  the  necessary  motor 
power. 

At  first  the  Apaches  viewed  the  little  train  with 
something  like  awe,  but  later,  with  the  contempt 
that  familiarity  is  said  to  breed,  tried  to  hold  it 
up  by  a  frontal  attack  as  well  as  one  from  the 
flank.  Dad  Arbuckle,  the  engineer,  pulled  the 
throttle  to  the  last  notch,  and  the  Little  Emma  gal- 
lantly leaped  to  battle.  The  engagement  was  brief 
and  eminently  satisfactory  to  Dad.  After  the 
Apaches  that  had  been  left  intact  had  cleaned  up 
the  muss  occasioned  by  those  of  their  tribe  that 
Little  Emma  had  butted,  they  decided  to  eliminate 
frontal  attacks  from  their  book  of  strategy. 

The  Leszynskys  sold  out  in  1883  to  a  Scotch 
corporation.  The  Arizona  Copper  Company,  Ltd., 
for  $2,000,000.  The  new  owners  built  a  narrow 
gauge  railroad  from  their  mine  at  Clifton  to 
Lordsburg  on  the  Southern  Pacific,  and,  in  1892, 
erected  a  leaching  plant  to  handle  certain  types 
of  the  ore,  which  like  all  of  the  ore  in  the  district 
averages  only  about  three  per  cent  copper. 

In  order  to  operate  with  a  profit,  most  efficient 
methods  are  used  both  in  handling  and  treating 


AEIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAR     273 

the  ore.  A  daily  output  from  the  mine  of  3,000 
tons  requires  a  working  force  of  but  1,600  men. 
Reverberatory  furnaces  are  used  in  the  companj^'s 
present  smelter,  which  was  erected  in  1914,  at  a 
cost  of  several  million. 

Detroit  Copper 

The  Detroit  Copper  Company's  mines,  sixth  in 
order  in  dividend  production,  are  also  located  at 
Morenci.  The  company  was  incorporated  in  1875, 
and  in  1882  constructed  a  small  smelter  six  miles 
from  Morenci,  on  the  San  Francisco  River.  Two 
years  later  the  smelter  was  moved  to  the  mines. 
By  1893  the  discovery  had  been  made  of  the  im- 
mense amount  of  low-grade  ore  within  Copper 
Mountain,  and  the  Phelps-Dodge  organization, 
after  making  careful  examination,  became  satis- 
fied with  the  financial  possibilities  of  mining  oper- 
ations in  the  district  and,  in  1895,  bought  up  a  con- 
trolling interest  of  the  Detroit  Copper  Company 
stock.  Fifteen  hundred  tons  of  ore  is  the  mine's 
daily  output,  and  thirteen  hundred  is  the  number 
of  men  on  the  company's  payroll. 

The  Shannon 

The  Shannon  mines,  of  the  Shannon  Copper 
Compan3%  at  Metcalf,  are  in  the  Clifton-Morenci 
neighborhood,  and  although  they  produce  but  150 
tons  of  ore  daily,  with  seventj^-five  men,  rank  tenth 
in  the  list  of  the  State's  great  dividend  producers. 

The  company  was  organized  in  1900,  with  a 
capitalization  of  $3,000,000.    It  has  since  produced 

18 


274  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

in  the  neighborhood  of  140,000,000  pounds  of  cop- 
per, of  a  value  of  more  than  $15,000,000,  and  has 
in  sight  as  much  more  copper  as  has  been  taken 
out.  Its  property  consists  of  about  twenty  claims 
located  near  the  summit  of  Shannon  Mountain, 
rising  1,200  feet  about  the  bed  of  Chase  Creek. 

These  claims  were  grouped  around  the  original 
Shannon  claim  which  was  one  of  the  earliest 
claims  in  the  district. 

At  the  Shannon  mines  is  the  Shannon  incline, 
down  which  ore  cars  drop  a  distance  of  eight  hun- 
dred feet  in  a  horizontal  distance  of  one  thousand 
feet.  Occasionally,  a  rash  passenger  goes  down  in 
the  cars,  when  the  sensation  is  much  the  same  as 
if  he  took  a  tail  dive  in  an  aeroplane. 

The  company  has  a  model  smelter  below  Clif- 
ton to  which  it  carries  its  ores  over  its  own  railroad 
line. 

Ray  Consolidated 

While  the  Ray  Consolidated  is  eleventh  on  the 
State's  list  of  dividend  producers,  the  daily  output 
of  ore  from  its  mines  is  greater  than  any  of  its 
rivals,  amounting  to  9,000  tons  a  day. 

The  property  is  located  on  Mineral  Creek  in 
Pinal  County,  so  named  by  Lieut.  W.  Emory 
who  was  with  General  Kearny's  dragoons  on  their 
passage  to  California  in  1846. 

Although  Emory's  report  gave  enthusiastic  pre- 
dictions concerning  the  noticeable  copper  crop- 
pings  at  the  mouth  of  the  stream,  no  locations 
were  made  in  the  district  until  about  1874.    Three 


ARIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAR     275 

years  later  the  Mineral  Creek  Mining  district  had 
been  formed  and  was  favorably  known,  not  for 
copper  however,  but  as  the  location  of  several 
promising  silver  claims. 

In  1883,  a  thirty-ton  furnace  was  treating  ore 
from  the  Ray,  Scorpion  and  Bilk  mines.  Soon 
after  that  the  Ray  Copper  Company,  which  was  or- 
ganized in  1882,  erected  a  small  concentrating  mill 
and  remodeled  its  furnace. 

The  company,  in  1898,  sold  its  holdings  to  a 
syndicate  of  Englishmen  whose  principal  was 
James  Gordon.  The  Ray  Copper  Company,  Ltd., 
was  organized  by  them  and  a  mill  was  built  at 
what  is  now  Kelvin,  where  Mineral  Creek  empties 
into  the  Gila,  and  a  railroad  was  constructed  from 
there  to  the  mine. 

It  would  seem  that  the  investment  did  not  prove 
a  profitable  one  and  the  property  passed  into  the 
hands  of  the  Guggenheimer  organization  in  1908. 
Under  the  efiicient  administration  of  D.  C.  Jack- 
ling,  the  present  vice-president  and  manager,  the 
ore  is  now  being  handled  in  the  most  approved 
scientific  manner,  and  the  property  is  on  a  sound 
financial  basis. 

The  Ray  Mill  was  erected  at  Hayden  in  1910, 
and  in  1912  the  company  built,  on  adjoining 
ground,  one  of  the  greatest  smelters  in  the  State, 
equipped  with  reverberatory  furnaces. 

With  its  immense  deposit  of  low  grade  ore,  es- 
timated the  third  largest  in  the  United  States,  its 
future  may  be  said  to  be  more  like  that  of  a  manu- 
facturing problem  than  the  usual  mine.    It  is  sim- 


276  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

ply  a  question  of  manufacturing  the  ore  now 
blocked  out  into  copper.  The  company  is  work- 
ing about  2,100  men. 

Inspiration 

Though  not  among  the  present  "Big  Eleven" 
dividend  producers.  The  Inspiration  Consolidated 
Copper  Company  mine  is  among  the  notable  prop- 
erties of  the  State.  In  the  first  place  it  has  the 
privilege  of  paying  taxes  on  the  greatest  assessed 
value  (over  $74,000,000)  of  any  of  Arizona's  mines; 
and  secondly,  what  probably  pleases  its  stockhold- 
ers more,  it  is  said  that  in  capacity  of  mill  and 
mine  operation,  it  leads  the  State. 

To  put  it  on  its  present  standing  of  efliciency 
$15,000,000  was  spent  in  development  work  and  in 
creating  the  various  plants  required  for  its  success- 
ful operation. 

The  ore  varies  in  width  in  Inspiration  ground 
from  200  to  1,600  feet,  with  an  average  vertical 
dimension  approximating  150  feet. 

The  daily  average  amount  of  ore  ground  at  the 
Marcey  Mill  is  475  tons,  and  the  company  employs 
about  625  men. 

Ajo  Mines 

It  is  interesting  to  note  that  the  old  Ajo  mines, 
the  first  copper  properties  to  be  worked  within  the 
State,  and  for  a  generation  practically  lying  idle, 
have  been  reborn  by  modern  scientific  methods, 
and  now,  held  by  a  subsidiary  company  under  the 
Calumet  and  Arizona,  are  considered  among  the 
big  coming  properties  in  the  State. 


ARIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAR     277 

The  presence  of  a  large  body  of  low  grade  cop- 
per ore  has,  for  many  years,  been  known  to  exist 
at  Ajo,  but  it  was  thought  that  the  grade  was  so 
low,  less  than  two  per  cent,  that  it  would  not  pay 
to  work  it. 

However,  under  Maj.  John  C.  Greenway,  the 
manager  of  the  Calumet  and  Arizona  Mining  Com- 
pany, in  1915,  a  long  series  of  experiments  were 
carried  on  until  a  process  had  been  satisfactorily 
developed,  complete  in  every  detail. 

The  process  was  finally  decided  upon  January 
10, 1916,  the  ground  broken  February  1, 1917,  and  a 
5,000-ton  plant  for  handling  the  ore  completed 
May,  1917. 

To  the  New  Cornelia,  the  original  purchase  of 
the  Calumet  and  Arizona,  in  August  of  1917  was 
added  the  ground  of  the  Ajo  Consolidated  Copper 
Company — 1,150  acres. 

With  the  ore  now  developed  in  the  New  Cor- 
nelia and  these  new  lands  there  are  about  65,000,- 
000  tons  of  ore  in  sight. 

Announcement  that  the  New  Cornelia  will  erect 
a  5,000-ton  flotation  plant  and  a  2,000-ton  smelter 
at  Ajo  is  said  to  have  been  made  by  the  C.  &  A. 
management. 

While  the  principal  metals  found  in  Arizona 
are  copper,  silver,  gold,  lead  and  zinc,  most  of  the 
other  rarer  metals  also  are  found.  The  ores  of 
molybdenum,  namely  molybdenite  and  wulfenite, 
are  found  in  many  places  in  Arizona.  Molybdenite 
is  found  in  Gila  County  in  disseminated  ores  at 
Miami;  in  Greenlee  County  in  the  copper  ores  of 


278  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

the  Clifton-Morenci  district;  in  Pinal  County  in 
ores  at  Ray  and  Kelvin  as  original  mineral.  It  is 
also  found  in  Pima  and  Santa  Cruz  counties. 
Wulfenite  is  nearly  always  present  in  silver  ores 
at  Tombstone;  it  is  also  found  in  Cochise,  Gila 
and  Pima,  Pinal,  Yavapai  and  Yuma  counties. 
Molybdenite,  used  extensively  in  the  manufacture 
of  exceedingly  hard  steels,  is  peculiarly  adapted 
for  armor  plate.  When  a  regular  supply  can  be 
guaranteed  to  steel  manufacturers,  there  is  no 
doubt  of  a  steady  market  for  Arizona's  ample  sup- 
ply of  molybdenite. 

Vanadium  is  v^ell  scattered  throughout  the 
State,  principally  as  the  ore,  vanadinite.  It  is  found 
in  Cochise  County,  near  Fairbanks;  in  Gila  County 
in  the  Globe  district;  in  Pima  County  14  miles 
northwest  of  Tucson,  and  in  several  places  in  Pinal 
and  Yavapai  counties.  Tungsten  is  also  found  in 
many  parts  of  Arizona,  including  Pima,  Santa 
Cruz,  Cochise,  Maricopa,  Mojave  and  Yavapai 
counties.  Manganese  is  also  found  in  many  places 
in  the  State.  Mercury  is  found  in  Maricopa, 
Yavapai  and  Gila  counties. 

Building  materials  of  a  varied  character  are 
found  within  the  State,  including  cement  rock, 
lime,  gypsum,  marble  and  slate. 

Arizona  promises  future  development  in  as- 
bestos, mica,  celestite  and  strongionite  which  are 
used  for  fireworks,  barites,  clays  and  other  prod- 
ucts. 

According  to  the  Directory  of  Operating  Mines, 
compiled  by  Charles  F.  Willis,  director  of  the  Bu- 


ARIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAR     279 

reau  of  Mines,  University  of  Arizona,  1915-16,  there 
were  then  being  actively  worked  within  the  state, 
mines  as  follows:  Copper,  65;  gold,  25;  gold  and 
silver,  8;  silver,  3;  lead  with  gold  and  silver,  4; 
lead  with  silver,  2;  lead  with  zinc,  5;  zinc,  1;  tung- 
sten, 3;  cinnabar,  1.  In  addition  to  this  it  must  be 
remembered  that  most  of  the  mines  listed  as  cop- 
per also  carry  gold  and  silver,  and  that  many  new 
mines  have  been  put  in  operation  since  the  direc- 
tory was  compiled. 

Zinc  is  now  fifth  or  sixth  on  the  list  of  metals 
produced  in  the  State,  but  is  quite  likely  to  become 
second  only  to  copper  in  importance  owing  to  the 
exceedingly  large  deposits  of  zinc  carbonates 
which  have  recently  been  discovered. 

In  general  it  may  be  said  that  Arizona  miners 
receive  in  wages  every  year  over  $50,000,000.  The 
eleven  big  copper  companies  paid  in  dividends  in 
1916   (estimated)   $35,000,000. 

The  total  production  of  gold,  silver  and  copper 
in  Arizona  for  1916-1917  is  as  follows:  1916,  gold, 
$4,092,800;  silver,  6,680,252  fine  ounces;  copper, 
692,630,286  pounds.  In  1917,  gold,  $5,533,800;  sil- 
ver, 8,183,205  ounces;  copper,  692,923,722  pounds. 

In  money  the  total  valuation  of  all  mineral  pro- 
duction in  Arizona  in  1916  was  about  $205,000,000, 
and  in  1917,  in  spite  of  labor  difficulties  and  the 
fixation  of  the  price  of  some  minerals,  it  rose  to 
about  $225,000,000.  The  assessed  valuation  on  Ari- 
zona mines,  mills  and  smelters  for  1918  aggregated 
over  $421,000,000. 

In  speaking  of  the  probable  prospects  for  the 


280  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

year  1918,  G.  M.  Butler,  acting  director  of  the  Ari- 
zona State  Bureau  of  Mines,  says: 

"It  is  rather  early  in  the  year  to  attempt  to 
prophesy  anything  as  to  the  production  for  1918. 
So  many  unforeseen  factors  enter  into  the  matter 
that  at  best  it  can  be  nothing  but  a  rough  guess. 
The  Government's  refusal  to  raise  the  price  of  cop- 
per has  done  much  to  discourage  small  producers, 
many  of  whom  were  working  at  a  loss  in  hope  that 
the  Government  would  do  something  to  alleviate 
their  difficulties.  Doubtless  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  these  will  be  forced  to  stop  work.  The 
low  price  of  copper  also  prevents  the  larger  mining 
companies  from  doing  much  needed  development 
work,  and  that  is  bound  to  have  an  unfortunate 
effect  upon  their  production,  which  will  become 
more  and  more  evident  as  time  goes  on.  The  mar- 
ket for  tungsten,  molybdenum,  and  other  relatively 
rare  metals  used  in  ferro-alloys  is  in  a  very  un- 
stable condition  at  present,  and  offers  little  incen- 
tive to  producers  of  these  metals.  Whether  any 
change  may  be  expected  in  the  near  future  it  is 
now  impossible  to  say. 

"On  the  other  hand  labor  troubles  considerably 
curtailed  the  possible  production  of  Arizona  mines 
last  year,  and,  if  this  year  can  be  passed  through 
without  a  repetition  of  these  difficulties,  this  factor 
may  counterbalance  the  detrimental  ones  already 
cited.  Taking  everything  into  consideration,  I  be- 
lieve that  our  production  this  year  will  be  about 
equal  to  that  of  last  year  unless  difficulties  now 
unforeseen  arise;  and  there  seems  little  doubt  that 


AEIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAR     281 

Arizona  will  retain  her  place  as  the  first  mineral 
state  in  the  Union." 

GOAL 

Although  no  coal  has  ever  been  mined  com- 
mercially in  Arizona  it  has  been  known  for  a  num- 
ber of  years  that  two  fields  exist  within  the 
boundaries  of  the  state.  The  Deer  Creek  fields  lie 
on  the  south  side  of  the  Gila  River  just  east  of 
Dudleyville  and  about  eighty-five  miles  northeast 
of  Tucson.  The  field  extends  ten  or  twelve  miles 
in  an  east  and  west  direction  and  has  a  known 
breadth  of  three  to  four  miles. 

In  a  report  published  by  the  State  Bureau  of 
Mines  it  is  stated  that  "The  beds  are  thin,  varying 
in  thickness  from  twenty-four  to  thirty  inches 
within  the  workable  limits  of  the  seam.  Tonnage 
based  on  thirty  square  miles  and  twenty-four 
inches  with  fifty  per  cent  available  is  30,050,000 
tons.  The  coal  is  fairly  well  disposed  for  mining 
except  in  regions  of  local  disturbance."  Part  of 
the  deposit  is  hard,  black  coal,  adaptable  to  trans- 
portation, commercial  use  and  coke,  the  second 
quality  is  only  valuable  for  gas  manufacture. 

The  Black  Mesa  coal  field  is  largely  within  the 
Hopi  Indian  Reservation,  lying  west  of  the  Chinlee 
Valley  and  north  of  the  Hopi  village  of  W^alpai. 
The  deposit  is  of  considerable  tonnage  and  of 
quality''  equal  to  Gallup,  New  Mexico,  coal.  The 
best  exposure  of  the  bed  at  present  is  fourteen 
miles  southeast  of  Tuba  where  coal  is  taken  to 


282  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

supply  the  Indian  school.  A  seven-foot  stratum  of 
coal  is  here  found  ten  feet  below  the  surface. 

Coal  is  also  found  near  Pinedale  in  Navajo 
County. 

THE  DIAMOND  HOAX 

Perhaps  the  greatest  mining  hoax  that  ever  was 
perpetrated  in  Arizona  was  the  alleged  discovery 
in  1872  of  a  diamond  field  in  the  northeastern 
part  of  the  Territory.  Two  men  by  the  names  of 
Arnold  and  Slack  were  supposed  to  be  the  dis- 
coverers, and  magnificent-looking  rough  diamonds 
and  rough  rubies,  which  it  is  said  they  had  picked 
up  in  the  Arizona  field,  were  exhibited  in  San 
Francisco.  A  company  with  a  capital  of  ten  mil- 
lion dollars  was  organized  in  San  Francisco  and 
the  list  of  stockholders  included  a  number  of  large 
mining  investors.  The  fraud  was  exposed  by  Clar- 
ence King,  United  States  Geologist,  who  showed 
that  the  stones  exhibited  were  from  Africa  and 
Brazil,  and  upon  visiting  the  Arizona  fields,  saw  at 
once  that  it  was  not  diamond-bearing  country. 

A  second  fake  diamond  field  was  located  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Gila. 

ARIZONA'S  LOST  MINES 

Ever  sincfe  the  Americans  first  came  to  Arizona 
there  have  been  current  stories  of  "Lost  Mines." 
The  earliest  of  these  stories  were  usually  of  mines 
belonging  to  the  Jesuit  padres  and  were  supposed 
to  be  worked  by  Indians  whom  the  friars  enslaved, 


AEIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAR     283 

the  poor  natives  toiling  long  hours  in  the  bowels 
of  the  earth,  and  when  not  working,  fastened  by 
chains  to  the  walls  of  rocky  caverns  to  keep  them 
from  running  away.  These  mines,  of  course,  were 
fabulously  rich,  chunks  of  gold  as  big  as  one's  fist 
and  masses  of  silver  weighing  thousands  of  pounds 
being  as  common  as  cobblestones  in  a  river  bottom, 
and  all,  according  to  these  stories,  were  covered  up 
at  the  time  of  the  uprising  of  the  Pima  Indians  in 
1751  and  their  locations  lost  with  the  expulsion  of 
the  Jesuits  by  the  Spanish  rulers  in  1767. 

This  is  pure  fiction  as  there  is  no  evidence  what- 
ever to  support  the  persistent  tradition  that  the 
Jesuits  owned  mines  in  Arizona.  As  we  have  seen 
elsewhere,  mining  was  carried  on  to  a  limited 
extent  during  the  years  they  did  missionary  work 
in  Arizona  as  we  learn  from  extracts  from  Padre 
Kino's  report,  "Even  in  sight  of  these  new  missions 
some  good  mining  camps  of  very  rich  silver  ore 
are  being  established."  However,  the  Jesuits  were 
striving  to  save  the  souls  of  Indians,  not  to  profit  in 
a  material  way  by  their  labor. 

After  the  Jesuit  stories  of  lost  mines  grew  stale, 
more  modern  ones  took  their  places  in  after  sup- 
per talks  of  prospectors  as  they  sat  about  their 
fires  under  the  Arizona  stars,  with  distant  yelping 
of  coyotes  for  orchestral  accompaniment.  One  of 
the  most  interesting  of  these  stories,  and  one  that 
undoubtedly  had  a  foundation  of  fact,  was  that 
concerning  the  "Lost  Soldier  Mine." 

In  1869,  Abner  McKeever  and  his  wife  were 
killed  by  Apaches  near  the  big  bend  in  the  Gila 


284  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

River  and  his  daughter  Belle  was  taken  prisoner. 
As  soon  as  word  reached  the  nearest  military  post, 
several  small  parties  of  mounted  soldiers  were 
started  on  the  trail.  One  of  these  detachments  was 
composed  of  Sergeant  Crossthwaite,  Privates  Joe 
Wormley  and  Eugene  Flannigan,  who  journeyed 
across  the  hot,  forbidding  desert  to  the  north  of 
the  river. 

Becoming  confused  in  their  bearings,  the  three 
wandered  among  the  cacti  and  creosote  bushes 
until  two  of  the  horses  fell  exhausted.  With  death 
from  thirst  staring  them  in  the  face,  the  soldiers, 
taking  some  of  the  horse  flesh  with  them,  pushed 
ahead  hoping  soon  to  find  water. 

That  same  night,  in  following  up  an  arroyo  in 
some  low,  broken  mountains  they  came  upon  a 
spring  just  in  time  to  save  their  lives.  After  they 
had  assuaged  their  burning  thirst  they  fell  into  an 
exhausted  sleep.  When  they  awoke  in  the  morning, 
so  the  story  goes,  they  found  nuggets  of  pure  gold 
in  the  bottom  of  the  spring,  and  all  about  were 
scattered  lumps  of  gold-bearing  quartz,  besides 
two  quartz  veins  on  the  canyon  wall  above  the 
spring,  which  were  so  impregnated  with  gold  the 
men  dug  grains  of  the  yellow  metal  out  with  their 
knives. 

They  loaded  fifty  pounds  of  the  quartz  on  their 
remaining  horse  and  started  back  for  the  Gila 
River.  ^  En  route,  overcome  by  thirst  and  heat, 
Crossthwaite  and  the  horse  died  and  Flannigan,  a 
little  later,  wholly  spent,  crawled  under  a  stunted 
mesquite  to  die.    Wormley,  the  hardiest  of  the 


ARIZONA  MINES  AFTER  CIVIL  WAR     285 

three,  finally  reached  the  river  delirious  and  all 
but  dead. 

Later,  a  rescuing  party  reached  Flannigan  in 
time  to  save  his  life,  then  found  the  horse  and 
brought  in  the  quartz  from  which  $1800  in  gold  was 
obtained. 

Wormley  and  Flannigan  made  many  attempts 
to  retrace  their  steps  but  without  success.  They 
never  found  the  lost  mine,  and  though  for  years 
afterwards  prospectors  scoured  the  country,  the 
desert  still  holds  its  mystery. 

The  "Lost  Dutchman  Mine"  derived  its  name 
from  a  German  who,  from  time  to  time,  used  to 
visit  Wickenburg  to  buy  supplies.  Always  he  had 
his  burros  laden  with  quartz  so  rich  in  gold  that  it 
drove  the  inhabitants  of  the  town  half  mad  with 
covetousness  and  wholly  mad  with  exasperation 
when  they  were  unable  to  get  even  the  remotest 
hint  from  the  taciturn  prospector  as  to  where  his 
mine  lay. 

Many  attempts  were  made  to  both  follow  and 
track  him,  but  slipping  away  at  night  with  the  feet 
of  his  burros  tied  in  gunny  sacks,  he  always  suc- 
ceeded in  eluding  his  pursuers.  One  time  he  failed 
to  come  back  and  the  desert  hid  another  story  in 
its  grim  bosom. 

In  the  '60s,  an  Indian  brought  to  Arizona  City 
a  lump  of  gold  as  big  as  the  palm  of  his  hand  and 
traded  it  for  beads  and  booze,  boasting  largely  that 
he  knew  where  he  could  get  plenty  more  when  that 
was  gone. 

Bribes,  coaxing  nor  threats  could  not  induce 


286  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

him  to  tell  the  location  of  his  Golconda;  he  said 
that  nobody  must  know  but  himself.  When  he 
disappeared  one  day,  "The  Lone  Indian  Mine"  was 
added  to  the  mysteries  and  legends  of  the  desert 
sands. 

Then  there  is  the  story  that  tells  of  one  of  the 
old,  nomadic,  War  Department  camels  leading  a 
man  to  a  desert  "tank"  or  declivity  in  a  rock  which 
collected  water  in  the  rainy  season.  Here,  so  the 
story  ran,  there  was  even  more  gold  scattered  about 
than  at  the  Lost  Soldier  Mine. 

Another  story,  located  in  Yavapai  County,  tells 
of  a  ledge  known  to  the  Yavapai  Indians  where 
they  used  to  dig  the  yellow  metal  out  of  the  rocks 
and  make  rifle  bullets  from  it.  This  likely  was 
inspired  by  Felix  Aubrey's  story  of  the  Indian  who 
shot  a  rabbit  with  a  gold  bullet. 


Chapter  XIX 

LABOR 

MOST  of  the  antagonism  between  capital  and 
labor  in  Arizona,  to  express  itself  in  terms 
of  actual  conflict,  has  occurred  in  the  vari- 
ous big  copper  camps,  as,  with  certain  conspicuous 
exceptions,  mining  operators  are  about  the  only 
people  in  the  State  employing  large  bodies  of  men 
continually. 

As,  year  by  year,  the  copper  mining  activities 
grew  in  magnitude,  the  close  relationship  between 
employer  and  employee  that  obtained  in  the  early 
days  disappeared,  and  on  one  side  there  developed 
the  absent  owner,  largely  out  of  touch  with  the 
individual  employee,  and,  on  the  other  side  the 
laborers  who  took  to  looking  upon  the  company 
employing  them,  even  though  the  wages  paid  were 
not  unfair  nor  the  hours  unduly  long,  as  a  soulless 
body  that  was  fattening  itself  unjustly  by  reason 
of  their  toil. 

The  great  rock  upon  which  the  two  sides  split 
was  the  question  of  recognition  of  the  labor  unions. 
The  operators  said  they  would  be  glad  to  treat  with 
employees  as  individuals,  but  not  as  a  unit  through 
the  labor  agent  of  an  organization.  The  laborers 
maintained  that  only  as  a  union  were  they  able  to 
resist   exploitation   by   employers,    and   that    the 

287 


288  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

operators  must  treat  with  them  as  an  organized 
body,  or,  in  self-defense  they  would  be  compelled 
to  resort  to  retaliatory  measures. 

Their  points  of  view  steadily  grew  more  unrec- 
oncilable,  and  the  feeling  between  the  employers 
and  the  men  became  so  bitter  that,  as  Charles  F. 
Willis,  Director  of  Arizona's  State  Bureau  of 
Mines,  wrote,  "It  is  no  secret  that  it  has  been  be- 
lieved that  an  industrial  war,  a  war  of  capital  and 
labor,  was  coming." 

In  June,  1903,  there  were  labor  troubles  in  al- 
most every  large  copper  camp  in  the  State.  In  the 
Clifton-Morenci  district  the  trouble  grew  so  serious 
that  Acting  Governor  Stoddard  ordered  out  the 
National  Guard  to  preserve  order.  The  soldiers 
were  sent  on  under  the  command  of  Col.  James  H. 
McClintock  and  were  reinforced  by  a  small  detach- 
ment of  Arizona  Rangers.  A  day  or  two  after  they 
reached  the  mines  five  troops  of  U.  S.  dismounted 
cavalry  arrived  from  Forts  Grant  and  Huachuca. 
The  differences  between  company  and  strikers 
were  temporarily  patched  up,  but  no  real  ad- 
vance was  made  towards  a  permanent  peace. 

An  even  more  grave  labor  situation  developed 
in  October,  1915,  when,  the  miners  insisting  upon 
higher  wages  and  union  recognition,  there  were 
strikes  in  the  camps  at  Clifton,  Morenci  and  Met- 
calf.  About  five  thousand  miners  and  workmen, 
largely  Mexicans,  were  involved,  and  disturbances 
of  the  peace  grew  so  serious  that  the  local  police 
officers  did  not  seem  able  to  cope  with  the  situa- 
tion, and  the  National  Guard  was  finally  sent  in. 


LABOR  289 

Fearing  bodily  violence,  the  managers  of  the  Ari- 
zona, Detroit  and  Shannon  mining  companies  left 
Clifton,  and  many  non-union  workers,  who  would 
have  persisted  at  work,  either  were  victims  of 
serious  personal  injury  or  were  run  out  of  town 
to  the  desert  to  shift  for  themselves.  A  camp  was 
organized  at  Duncan,  about  thirty  miles  to  the 
southeast  of  Clifton,  where  the  refugees  were  cared 
for  by  the  mine  owners.  In  December,  protected 
by  United  States  deputy  marshals,  the  owners  sent 
about  five  hundred  men  into  Morenci  to  do  neces- 
sary assessment  work  on  unpatented  claims. 

With  labor  still  uneasy,  in  1916  again  there  was 
trouble  at  the  various  camps,  and,  in  the  spring 
of  1917,  it  is  said  that  in  Jerome  less  than  a  hun- 
dred members  of  the  Industrial  Workers  of  the 
World  induced  a  strike  in  a  camp  of  six  thousand 
men.  Afterwards  the  agitators  were  deported  by 
a  delegation  of  citizens  and  the  camp  resumed  its 
normal  activities.  Strikes  were  also  precipitated 
at  Ajo,  Humbolt,  Clifton  and  Morenci. 

In  July,  1917,  a  strike  that  threatened  to  be  the 
most  serious  of  all  was  called  at  Globe  and  Miami, 
both  by  the  I.  W.  W.  and  the  Miners'  Union.  There 
was  also  a  strike  in  the  Warren  District,  the  home 
of  the  Copper  Queen  and  the  Calument  and  Ari- 
zona, in  which  members  of  the  I.  W.  W.  were 
prominent  and  unruly  figures.  The  feeling  against 
the  I.  W.  W.  and  their  sympathizers  grew  so  pro- 
nounced, not  only  on  account  of  violence  and 
threats  against  all  they  termed  the  "bourgeoisie" 
but    also    for    seditious    and    disloyal    utterances 

19 


290  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

against  the  Government  of  the  United  States 
alleged  to  have  been  made  by  them,  that  on  July 
12th  the  sheriff  of  the  county,  Harry  Wheeler, 
with  a  large  armed  force  of  men,  presumingly 
acting  as  his  deputies,  rounded  up  1,186  of  these 
men,  put  them  aboard  a  train  and  carried  them 
to  Columbus,  New  Mexico.  "The  authorities  at 
Columbus,"  to  quote  from  the  report  of  the  Presi- 
dent's Mediation  Committee,  "refused  to  permit 
those  in  charge  of  the  deportation  to  leave  the 
men  there,  and  the  train  carried  thein  back  to 
the  desert  town  of  Hermanas,  New  Mexico,  a 
nearby  station.  The  deportees  were  wholly  with- 
out adequate  supply  of  food  and  water  and  shelter 
for  two  days.  At  Hermanas  the  deported  men 
were  abandoned  by  the  guards  who  had  brought 
them,  and  they  were  left  to  shift  for  themselves. 
The  situation  was  brought  to  the  attention  of  the 
War  Department,  and  on  July  14  the  deportees 
were  escorted  by  troops  to  Columbus,  New  Mexico, 
where  they  were  maintained  by  the  Government 
until  the  middle  of  September." 

For  sometime  afterwards  the  deported  men 
and  other  members  of  the  I.  W.  W.  and  their 
sympathizers  were  refused  admittance  into  the 
district  by  armed  guards,  and  a  citizens'  "com- 
mittee" continued  to  deport  men  they  considered 
"undesirables." 

In  the  various  troubles  of  1917  throughout  the 
state,  the  operators  were  ready  to  accuse  strike 
agitators,  many  of  whom  were  foreign  born,  not 
only  of  being  professional  trouble  makers,  but  of 


i 


LABOR  291 

being  positively  disloyal  to  the  Government,  and 
attacks  upon  the  nation  made  by  soap-box  orators 
among  the  strikers,  and  the  action  of  the  Globe 
Miners'  Union  in  voting  down  a  motion  to  raise 
the  American  flag  over  their  union  hall  seemed 
to  substantiate  their  accusations.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  miners  accused  the  owners  and  operators 
of  being  profiteers,  and  of  being  as  overbearing 
in  their  dealings  with  their  men  as  a  Prussian 
officer  might  be,  and  they  quoted  from  the  report 
of  the  President's  Mediation  Commission:  "Too 
often  there  is  a  glaring  inconsistency  between  our 
democratic  purposes  in  this  war  abroad  and  the 
autocratic  conduct  of  some  of  those  guiding  in- 
dustry at  home.  This  inconsistency  is  emphasized 
by  such  episodes  as  the  Bisbee  deportation." 

Certainly  the  President's  committee  did  not 
feel  that  labor,  as  a  class,  was  disloyal,  for  it 
states,  "Labor,  at  heart,  is  as  devoted  to  the  pur- 
poses of  the  Government  in  the  prosecution  of  this 
war  as  any  other  part  of  society.  If  labor's  en- 
thusiasm is  less  vocal,  and  its  feelings  here  and 
there  tepid,  we  will  find  the  explanation  in  some 
of  the  conditions  of  the  industrial  environment  in 
which  labor  is  placed  and  which,  in  many  in- 
stances, is  its  nearest  contact  with  the  activities 
of  the  war." 

The  opinion  in  which  the  L  W.  W.  is  held  by 
Arizona  in  general  may  be  inferred  from  a  resolu- 
tion that  was  introduced  at  the  first  special  session 
of  the  Third  Legislature  by  Mrs.  Pauline  M.  O'Neill, 
which  said  in  part: 


292  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

"That  this  Legislature,  in  special  war  session 
assembled,  calls  upon  every  official,  from  the 
highest  to  the  lowest,  to  place  Arizona  in  the  lead 
in  this  nation  in  patriotism  by  denouncing  the  I. 
W.  W.'s  and  all  its  works,  and  to  pledge  himself 
to  do  everything  within  his  power  to  rid  the  state 
of  an  organization  which  is  a  menace  to  our  Gov- 
ernment and  a  stain  upon  the  fair  name  of  our 
state  and  our  nation,  and  an  insult  to  the  beloved 
flag  of  our  grand  and  glorious  country."  Thirty- 
one  representatives  voted  for  the  resolution  and 
none  against  it. 

Soon  after  the  deportation,  Hon.  John  McBride, 
federal  mediator  from  the  Department  of  Labor, 
was  sent  to  Arizona,  where  he  was  joined  by  Gov. 
George  W.  P.  Hunt,  who  had  been  specially  desig- 
nated as  mediator  and  conciliator.  Later,  as  rec- 
ommended by  Governor  Hunt,  the  President 
named  a  special  mediation  committee,  which  was 
headed  by  W.  B.  Wilson,  Secretary  of  Labor,  with 
Felix  Frankfurter  as  secretary  and  counsel.  This 
committee  made  a  careful  investigation  of  the 
Bisbee  deportation  and  other  labor  troubles  in 
the  West.  Among  its  recommendations  were  "the 
elimination  to  the  utmost  practical  extent  of  all 
profiteering  during  the  period  of  the  war  as  a  pre- 
requisite of  the  best  morale  in  industry.  Modern, 
large-scale  industry  has  effectually  destroyed  the 
personal  relation  between  employer  and  em- 
ployee— the  knowledge  and  co-operation  that  come 
from  personal  contact.  It  is  therefore  no  longer 
possible  to  conduct  industry  by  dealing  with  em- 


LABOR  293 

ployees  as  individuals.  Some  form  of  collective 
relationship  between  management  and  men  is  in- 
dispensable. The  recognition  of  this  principle  by 
the  Government  should  form  an  accepted  part  of 
the  labor  policy  of  the  nation. 

"Law  in  business,  as  elsewhere,  depends  for 
its  vitality  upon  steady  enforcement.  Instead  of 
waiting  for  adjustment  after  grievances  come  to 
the  surface,  there  is  needed  the  establishment  of 
continuous  administrative  machinery  for  the 
orderly  disposition  of  industrial  issues  and  the 
avoidance  of  an  atmosphere  of  contention  and  the 
waste  of  disturbances." 

As  a  result  of  the  work  of  the  mediation  com- 
mittee, "channels  of  communication  between 
management  and  men  were  created  through  griev- 
ance committees,  free  from  all  possible  company 
influences." 

At  the  time  of  this  writing,  December,  1918,  all 
of  the  copper  camps  are  actively  at  work  and,  it 
is  estimated,  will  produce  during  the  year  819,- 
000,000  pounds  of  copper,  and  while  the  labor 
question  cannot  in  any  sense  be  said  to  be  settled, 
it  is  to  be  hoped  that  under  the  supervision  the 
National  Government  is  taking  in  the  matter,  not 
only  will  immediate  difficulties  be  avoided,  but 
the  whole  matter  put  on  a  more  logical  and  just 
basis  to  both  the  employer  and  the  employee. 

On  May  15, 1918,  federal  warrants  for  the  arrest 
of  twenty-five  prominent  citizens  of  the  Warren 
District  for  alleged  participation  in  the  deportation 
were  issued  on  indictments  found  in  the  United 


294  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

States  District  Court  at  Tucson.  This  list  includes 
Walter  Douglas,  president  of  the  Phelps-Dodge 
Corporation,  whose  home  is  New  York,  but  who 
was  in  Bisbee  on  the  day  of  the  trouble,  and 
Sheriff  Wheeler,  who  after  the  deportation  went 
as  a  captain  with  the  American  Expeditionary 
Force  to  France. 

On  December  2nd,  however.  Judge  William 
Morrow,  in  the  Federal  Court  at  Tucson,  sustained 
a  demurrer  of  the  defendants,  ruling  that  the  acts 
charged  did  not  constitute  an  offence  under  federal 
law,  thus  relieving  them  of  their  indictments.  In 
his  decision  Judge  Morrow  criticised  the  deported 
men  for  not  submitting  their  character  and  con- 
duct in  the  state  courts  to  the  community  where 
they  resided,  suggesting  that  if  any  law  was  vio- 
lated it  was  the  state  law  against  kidnapping. 

A  happening  not  unconnected  with  labor 
troubles  in  Arizona  occurred  in  the  Federal  Court 
at  Chicago,  where,  on  August  30,  1918,  ninety-five 
members  of  the  I.  W.  W.,  who  previously  had  been 
found  guilty  of  anti-war  conspiracies  against  the 
United  States,  were  sentenced  by  Judge  K.  M. 
Landis  to  terms  in  prison  ranging  from  one  year 
and  one  day  to  twenty  years,  and  with  fines  from 
$5,000  to  $20,000.  Five  of  these  men  were  residents 
of  Arizona,  and  others  of  those  convicted  were 
more  or  less  prominently  connected  with  Arizona 
labor  troubles.  It  was  Grover  H.  Perry,  of  Utah, 
one  of  the  convicted  ninety-five,  who  was  quoted 
as  saying  to  Governor  Campbell,  "The  Govern- 
ment needs  copper,  and  if  we  don't  get  what  we 


LABOR  295 

want    we'll    see    that    the    Government    gets    no 
copper.     .     .     ." 

In  general  it  may  be  said  that  in  no  other  state 
have  the  needs  and  claims  of  labor  received  more 
serious  consideration  than  in  Arizona.  Wages  are 
uniformly  good  and  conditions  under  which  men 
work,  on  the  whole,  excellent.  In  the  agricultural 
districts  of  the  Salt  and  Yuma  valleys  most  of  the 
cotton  picking  is  done  by  Mexicans  and  Indians. 
The  rest  of  the  farm  labor  is  usually  performed  by 
Mexicans  or  native  Americans,  the  latter  pre- 
dominating. 


Chapter  XX 
TILLING   THE    SOIL 

THIS  chapter  is  about  the  practice  of  agricul- 
ture in  Arizona.  As  a  boy  we  remember 
a  book  in  which  our  Aunt  Mary  used  to  press 
flowers — a  report  of  the  Department  of  Agricul- 
ture for  1876.  Aside  from  its  interest  as  a  flower 
press,  the  book,  with  its  scientific  names  and 
dreary  details,  was  the  dullest  affair  we  ever 
looked  into.  Keeping  this  in  mind  we  shall  en- 
deavor to  be  temperate  in  statistics  and  abstemious 
in  technicalities. 

However  dull  as  farming  may  be  to  read  about, 
there  was  nothing  humdrum  in  its  practice  in 
Arizona  pioneer  days.  Take  Pete  Kitchen,  who 
had  a  ranch  in  the  Santa  Cruz  Valley  near  Nogales. 
The  walls  of  his  adobe  house  were  higher  than 
the  roof,  with  convenient  holes  in  the  sides  to 
shoot  through.  Day  and  night,  sentries  were  posted 
here  to  watch  for  Apaches.  Every  man  or  boy 
on  the  place  not  only  carried  a  gun  continually 
about  his  duties,  but  knew  how  to  use  it.  Every 
plow  that  went  into  the  field  had  a  rifle  lashed  to 
it;  every  wagon  that  went  to  Tucson  with  produce 
was  accompanied  by  a  mounted  guard.  In  con- 
sequence, while  the  Apaches  murdered  most  of 
his  neighbors,  Pete  continued  to  do  business  at 

296 


TILLING  THE  SOIL  297 

the  old  stand,  raising,  for  example,  in  1872,  twenty 
acres  of  potatoes  and  curing  14,000  pounds  of 
bacon. 

Jasper  Pennington  also  farmed  on  the  Santa 
Cruz  in  the  early  '70s.  The  Apaches  stole  his 
cattle,  burned  his  corrals  and  devastated  his  fields, 
still  Joe  persisted  in  the  quiet  paths  of  agriculture 
for  many  years,  planting  his  crops  in  the  dark  of 
the  moon  and  harvesting  them  with  a  rabbit's  foot 
in  one  pocket  and  a  six-shooter  in  another,  while 
his  daughter  Lucera  stood  guard  with  a  Win- 
chester. 

In  the  late  '60s  two  citizens  of  Prescott  raised 
a  crop  of  corn  on  the  Verde.  As  the  corn  neared 
maturity  the  partners  noticed  that  the  roasting 
ears  were  disappearing  between  sunset  and  sun- 
rise, and  an  examination  of  the  soil  between  rows 
showed  the  prints  of  moccasined  feet. 

The  partners  sat  up  the  next  night — guns  in 
hand.  At  midnight  there  were  heard  soft  rustlings 
among  the  corn.  With  one  accord  the  partners 
opened  fire.  The  next  morning  they  found  a  fat, 
Tonto  squaw  dead  in  the  field.  They  promptly 
hung  her  up  for  a  scarecrow  and  the  depredations 
ceased.  Be  not  shocked;  those  were  rugged  times. 
If  the  Apaches  had  caught  the  partners  in  theft 
they  would  probably  have  skinned  them  alive. 

As  early  as  1865  settlers  began  to  locate  in 
many  of  the  fertile  spots  about  the  Prescott  Basin, 
including  the  Williamson,  Verde,  Walnut  Grove, 
Kirkland,  Peoples'  and  Skull  valleys.  Corn  and 
barley  were  planted  by  farmers,  who  risked  the 


298  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

peril  of  hostile  Indians  in  the  hope  of  finding  a 
profitable  market  for  their  crops  at  Camps  Verde 
and  Whipple.  However,  we  read  that  though  army 
quartermasters  were  paying  twenty  cents  a  pound 
for  barley  and  corn  from  California,  they  would 
offer  the  local  farmers  but  ten  cents.  Charges  of 
crookedness  on  the  part  of  army  officials  were 
freely  made,  but  with  no  change  in  the  situation. 
Nevertheless,  even  at  ten  cents  a  pound,  one  may 
raise  corn  at  a  profit,  and  plantings  were  slowly 
increased. 

A  mining  camp  is  nearly  always  a  good  market. 
In  1876,  in  the  vicinity  of  Globe,  the  Indians  cut 
dried,  native  grass  for  hay,  which  they  brought  to 
market  on  their  shoulders,  selling  it  for  a  cent  a 
pound.  Cattle  and  sheep  had  also  been  brought 
into  the  country  by  this  time,  and  butter  and  milk 
were  obtainable  at  different  mountain  settlements, 
and  beef  and  mutton  were  sold  at  reasonable 
prices. 

In  the  Salt  River  Valley,  agriculture  had  its 
beginnings  in  1866,  when  John  Y.  T.  Smith  cut 
wild  hay  which  grew  along  the  banks  of  Salt 
River  and  established  a  hay  camp  four  miles  up 
from  the  site  of  the  present  city  of  Phoenix. 

Before  proceeding  further  we  may  say  that,  in 
general,  the  controlling  factor  of  successful  agri- 
culture in  Arizona  is  not  so  much  the  fertility  of 
the  soil  as  water  supply.  Only  in  the  highlands 
of  Arizona,  where  the  altitude  is  well  above  a  mile, 
is  the  rainfall  sufficient  to  produce  a  crop  without 
irrigation,  and  even  ^n  such  places  as  about  Pres- 


TILLING  THE  SOIL  299 

cott,  much  better  returns  are  secured  when  irriga- 
tion water  can  supplement  the  rainfall.  Where 
suitable  land  can  be  found  at  an  altitude  as  high 
as  seven  thousand  feet,  as  in  the  case  in  the  vicinity 
of  Flagstaff,  such  crops  as  potatoes  and  some 
grains  do  very  well  with  rainfall  alone. 

Work  on  the  first  irrigation  ditch  to  be  built 
by  Americans  in  the  Salt  River  Valley  was  begun, 
in  1867,  by  the  versatile  Jack  Swilling,  who  came 
down  from  Wickenburg  for  that  purpose,  accom- 
panied by  "Lord"  Darrel  Duppa,  Pump-handle 
John,  One-eyed  Davis,  Lawsen  and  others. 

The  first  location  chosen  for  the  intake  was  on 
the  north  bank  of  the  Salt  River,  nearly  opposite 
the  present  town  of  Tempe,  but  on  account  of 
adverse  conditions  encountered  at  that  site,  the 
work  was  abandoned  in  favor  of  a  new  location 
five  miles  further  down  stream,  where  J.  Y.  T. 
Smith  had  his  hay  camp. 

Further  irrigation  canals  to  be  built  in  the 
valley  included  the  Maricopa  Canal,  built  in  '68, 
the  Tempe  and  Wormser  in  '71,  the  Utah  in  '77, 
the  Mesa  and  Grand  in  '78,  and  the  Arizona  in  '85. 
Later  the  canals  on  the  north  side  of  Salt  River 
were  consolidated  and  improved  under  the  man- 
agement of  the  Arizona  Improvement  Company, 
whose  controlling  head  was  W.  J.  Murphy.  On 
the  south  side  of  the  river  a  syndicate  headed  by 
Dr.  A.  J.  Chandler  built  the  Consolidated  Canal, 
which,  by  taking  water  from  the  river  at  a  higher 
level  and  distributing  it  to  the  Mesa  and  other 
canals  lower  down,  was  able  to  make  a  decided 


300  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

saving  of  water  by  decreasing  evaporation  and 
seepage.  A  considerable  amount  of  water  power 
was  developed  on  both  sides  of  the  river  at  drops 
on  the  various  canals. 

The  Roosevelt  Reservoir 

In  Arizona  the  volume  of  water  in  its  rivers 
fluctuates  greatly.  When  the  spring  rains  melt  the 
mountain  snows,  such  rivers  as  the  Salt  and  Gila 
become  mighty  torrents;  during  times  of  drought 
they  are  but  small  streams,  and,  on  the  Gila  espe- 
cially, at  places  disappear  in  the  sand.  For  this 
reason  the  need  of  reservoirs  on  these  and  similar 
rivers  throughout  the  West,  which  would  impound 
water  at  time  of  flood  and  distribute  it  to  the 
land  as  desired,  became  evident  to  officials  and 
lawmakers  at  Washington  as  well  as  to  the 
settlers. 

In  Phoenix,  in  1889,  a  committee  of  water  users, 
headed  by  William  Christy,  labored  for  months 
to  develop  something  that  would  aid  the  situation. 
It  was  expected  that  Senator  W.  M.  Stewart,  of 
Nevada,  heading  a  sub-committee  on  irrigation 
which  was  looking  for  favorable  sites  for  reser- 
voirs, might  visit  Arizona.  In  consequence,  fol- 
lowing a  suggestion  made  by  the  Phoenix  Chamber 
of  Commerce,  the  Maricopa  County  Board  of 
Supervisors  delegated  County  Surveyor  W.  M. 
Breckenridge  to  look  for  sites  on  the  Salt  and 
Verde  rivers.  Accompanied  by  John  R.  Norton 
and  James  H.  McClintock,  Breckenridge  inspected 


TILLING  THE  SOIL  301 

a  number  of  locations,  by  far  the  most  desirable 
one  being  a  site  at  the  confluence  of  Tonto  Creek 
and  Salt  River,  just  below  which  the  river  passed 
through  a  narrow  gorge. 

A  promoter  by  the  name  of  Wells  Hendershott 
had  made  a  location  of  this  dam  site  and  after- 
wards passed  the  title  of  it  on  to  Man  &  Man,  a 
firm  of  New  York  attorneys,  and  Sims  Ely. 

The  Reclamation  Service,  appreciating  that  the 
Tonto  site  was  the  one  perfect  location  for  a 
reservoir  on  Salt  River  to  supply  the  Salt  River 
Valley  with  water,  secured  to  the  Government  the 
Hendershott-Man-Ely  claims  for  $40,000. 

Acting  under  authority  of  the  Legislature,  in 
1900,  Chief  Justice  Webster  Street  appointed  a 
water  storage  commission,  composed  of  J.  T.  Priest, 
W.  D.  Fulwiler,  Dwight  R.  Heard,  Charles  Gold- 
man and  Jed  Peterson,  who  also  reported  favor- 
ably on  the  Tonto  site. 

This  was  all  very  well  so  far  as  it  went,  but  the 
excellence  of  the  site  availed  but  little  without 
money  to  build  a  dam — and  where  was  the  money 
to  come  from? 

What  followed  is  like  the  story  of  Aladdin  and 
the  Wonderful  Lamp.  In  making  a  cast  of  char- 
acters we  are  of  the  opinion  that  by  reason  of  his 
persistent  and  untiring  lamp-rubbing,  R.  A.  Fowler, 
a  Glendale  rancher,  a  man  of  notable  executive 
ability,  whose  tact  in  handling  men  seemed  limit- 
less and  whose  patience  was  all  but  inexhaust- 
ible, should  certainly  be  given  the  part  of  Aladdin. 
As  for  the  genii — Arthur  P.  Davis  and  F.  H.  Newell, 


302  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

of  the  Reclamation  Service;  George  H.  Maxwell, 
executive  chairman  of  the  National  Irrigation  Con- 
gress; Joseph  H.  Kibbey,  counsel  of  the  Water 
Users'  Association  that  was  to  be  organized; 
Project  Engineer  L.  C.  Hill;  William  Christy, 
banker  and  farmer;  W.  D.  Fulwiler,  canal  official 
and  water  expert;  and  neither  last  nor  least,  Theo- 
dore Roosevelt,  who  knew  the  West  and  its  needs 
and  urged  the  passage  of  a  reclamation  act  in  his 
first  message  to  Congress — all  have  prominent 
parts  in  the  working  of  this  mighty  miracle — they 
were  the  genii  of  the  lamp! 

In  1901,  aided  by  George  H.  Maxwell,  the  irri- 
gators of  the  Salt  River  Valley  selected  a  com- 
mittee to  see  what  could  be  done  towards  securing 
the  reservoir,  making  B.  A.  Fowler  chairman. 

A  national  appropriation  of  $10,000  had  been 
made  by  Congress  to  aid  in  preliminary  work,  to 
which  sum  was  added  $30,000  more  by  an  act  of 
the  state  legislature,  which  empowered  Maricopa 
County  to  make  a  tax  levy  for  that  amount. 

The  next  step  toward  the  desired  goal  was 
taken  when  a  reclamation  act  that  provided  that 
the  proceeds  of  sale  of  state  lands  in  certain  west- 
ern commonwealths  should  be  used  in  building 
reclamation  works  was  signed,  June  17,  1902,  by 
President  Roosevelt. 

In  order  to  make  available  the  benefits  of  this 
act  to  their  needs,  it  was  necessary  for  the  irriga- 
tors of  the  Salt  River  Valley  to  form  themselves 
into  an  association  which  could  act  as  a  unit  with 
the  reclamation  officials.    After  much  hard  work 


TILLING  THE  SOIL  303 

on  the  part  of  Chairman  B.  A.  Fowler  and  his 
associates,  the  people  of  the  Salt  River  Valley, 
dissolving  many  conflicting  interests,  formed  such 
a  body,  which  was  called  the  Salt  River  Valley 
Waters  Users'  Association,  with  B.  A.  Fowler  as 
president,  and  Judge  Jos.  H.  Kibbey,  counsel. 

One  reason  why  the  Salt  River  Valley  was 
among  the  first  localities  to  receive  benefits  from 
the  reclamation  act  was  that  it  not  only  had  an 
irrigation  system  already  worked  out,  but  also  its 
people  could  give  a  definite  report  on  exactly  what 
the  proposed  reservoir  would  accomplish. 

Credit  for  this  must  be  given  Arthur  P.  Davis, 
who,  when  hydrographer  for  the  Geologic  Survey, 
at  the  instance  of  the  local  board  of  the  Water 
Storage  Commission,  made  an  exhaustive  inves- 
tigation of  the  rainfall  on  the  upper  Salt  and 
Tonto,  as  well  as  the  capacity  of  the  reservoir. 
Also,  what  was  equally  important,  by  the  use  of 
diamond  drills,  he  had  ascertained  that  bed  rock 
extended  across  the  river  at  a  favorable  spot  upon 
which  to  build  the  dam. 

The  first  tangible  results  of  the  labors  of  our 
genii  appeared  when,  on  March  12,  1903,  Secre- 
tary of  the  Interior  E.  A.  Hitchcock  tentatively 
authorized  the  construction  of  a  storage  dam  to 
be  built  on  the  Tonto  site,  and,  on  October  15th,  re- 
affirmed the  order  and  authorized  the  expenditure 
of  $100,000,  the  first  installment  of  a  fund  which 
was  expected  to  reach  $3,000,000.  This  money  was 
to  be  returned  to  the  Government  by  the  farmers 
in  installments  covering  a  number  of  years,  and 
without  interest. 


304  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

In  addition  to  the  building  of  the  storage  dam, 
the  Reclamation  Service  undertook  not  only  to 
purchase  all  of  the  existing  canals  in  the  Salt 
River  Valley  which  desired  to  avail  themselves 
of  this  stored  water,  but  also  to  greatly  improve 
them,  build  a  permanent,  concrete  diversion  dam 
to  turn  the  water  from  the  river  into  the  canals 
and  to  develop  water  power. 

The  work  was  carried  out  even  better  than  first 
planned.  Under  the  supervision  of  Louis  C.  Hill, 
one  of  the  great  civil  engineers  of  America,  a 
system  of  water  storage  and  distribution,  and  the 
development  of  water  power,  was  carried  to  com- 
pletion that  has  no  superior  in  the  world. 

As  completed,  the  project  has  cost  over  eleven 
millions  of  dollars,  and  while  there  has  been  much 
local  criticism  over  the  unexpected  high  price  of 
the  work,  nothing  but  praise  can  be  given  the 
completed  system.  In  former  years,  in  the  valley, 
floods  would  wash  out  diversion  dams  when  the 
river  was  high,  and  even  with  dams  intact,  canals 
would  carry  but  a  meager  supply  when  the  river 
was  low.  Now  there  is  a  stable  and  ample  supply, 
and  lands  in  certain  parts  of  the  project  that  could 
then  not  be  sold  for  $30  an  acre  are  worth  today 
from  $150  to  $350  an  acre. 

Labor  and  brains  and  money,  without  stint, 
went  into  the  Roosevelt  Dam,  but  the  benefits 
accruing  from  it  are  far  reaching.  The  Salt  River 
Valley  is  one  of  the  garden  spots  of  the  world. 
It  is  a  land  of  milk  and  honey,  it  is  a  land  of 
fruits  and  vines.    Its  fields  are  emerald  with  wav- 


TILLING  THE  SOIL  305 

ing  alfalfa  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach;  its  fields 
are  golden  with  grain,  they  are  silvered  with 
cotton.  Fruits  of  the  Occident,  such  as  peaches, 
plums  and  apricots,  grow  side  by  side  with  dates, 
figs  and  pomegranates  of  the  Orient,  while  in  pro- 
tected spots  near  the  foothills  the  apples  of  the 
Hesperides — oranges,  pomeloes  and  lemons — are 
grown  in  rare  perfection.  The  fame  of  its  lettuce 
and  melons  is  nation  wide. 

The  first  stone  in  the  dam  was  laid  September 
20,  1906,  the  last,  February  5,  1911.  The  height  of 
the  dam  from  lowest  foundation  stone  is  284  feet, 
and  the  structure  is  168  feet  thick  at  the  base.  The 
spillways  are  in  natural  rock.  The  area  of  the 
lake  formed  by  the  dam  when  full  is  25%  square 
miles,  when  it  holds  1,367,305  acre  feet  of  water, 
which  is,  of  course,  water  enough  to  cover  1,367,305 
acres  one  foot  deep.  It  is  the  largest  artificial 
body  of  water  in  the  world. 

In  building  the  irrigation  system,  every  possible 
opportunity  for  developing  water  power  by  falls 
was  utilized,  and  this  power  converted  into  elec- 
tricity by  means  of  plants  of  the  most  efficient  type. 
At  the  dam  itself,  10,000  horse  power  is  developed, 
and  at  other  places  on  the  various  canals,  15,000 
horse  power  more. 

The  area  of  land  to  be  irrigated  by  the  system, 
when  entirely  perfected,  is  now  estimated  at 
219,000  acres. 

On  March  18,  1911,  this  mighty  irrigation  sys- 
tem was  dedicated  by  Colonel  Roosevelt,  who  had 
not    only    taken    great    interest    in    reclamation 

20 


306  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

projects  in  general  in  the  West,  but  in  particular 
the  irrigation  system  in  the  Salt  River  Valley, 
whose  dam  and  reservoir  now  bear  his  name. 

John  P.  Orme,  president  of  the  Water  Users' 
Association,  acted  as  ex-officio  reception  com- 
mittee on  the  day  of  the  dedication;  Gov.  R.  C. 
Sloan  was  chairman.  In  addition  to  the  address 
of  Colonel  Roosevelt,  speeches  were  made  by  Chief 
Engineer  Hill,  B.  A.  Fowler  and  others. 

At  the  conclusion  of  his  speech.  Colonel  Roose- 
velt moved  the  electric  switch  which  opened  the 
sluice  gates  at  the  northern  end  of  the  dam,  and 
a  great  stream  of  impounded  water  went  thunder- 
ing into  the  river  bed,  where  about  fifty-five  miles 
below  it  would  be  picked  up  again  by  the  Granite 
Reef  Diversion  Dapi  and  turned  into  the  irrigating 
canals. 

In  order  to  transport  supplies  to  the  dam,  a 
road  was  built  from  Globe  past  the  reservoir  to 
the  Salt  River  Valley.  Much  of  the  country  is  very 
mountainous,  with  crags,  gorges  and  precipices  on 
every  hand.  The  road  going  through  the  heart  of 
all  this  is  one  of  the  scenic  highways  of  America 
and  has  gained  a  national  reputation  under  the 
name  of  "The  Apache  Trail."  For  all  the  rough- 
ness of  the  country,  the  road  was  so  carefully 
laid  out  and  so  skillfully  built  that  travel  over  it 
is  not  only  exhilarating  but  safe  and  pleasant.  It 
is  used  by  several  automobile  stage  lines,  one 
operated  by  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad. 


TILLING  THE  SOIL  307 

VERDE  RESERVOIR  SITES 

On  the  lower  Verde  River,  a  tributary  of  the 
Salt,  favorable  reports  have  been  made  by  Govern- 
ment engineers  on  two  additional  reservoir  sites, 
the  "McDowell"  and  the  Horseshoe.  The  former 
would  impound  280,000  acre  feet  of  water,  and 
the  latter  205,000  acre  feet,  or  sufficient  to  supply 
over  50,000  acres  of  land. 

THE  LAGUNA  PROJECT 

Climatic  conditions  along  the  lower  Gila  and 
the  lower  Colorado  do  not  vary  greatly  from  those 
in  the  Salt  River  Valley,  and  the  "desert"  soils 
adjoining  them  need  only  the  application  of  water 
to  make  them  fruitful. 

Above  Yuma  the  United  States  Reclamation 
Service,  in  July,  1905,  began  work  on  a  dam  which 
would  divert  water  from  the  Colorado  River  into 
an  irrigating  canal,  where  it  would  water  about 
130,000  acres  of  land.  This  dam,  which  crossed 
the  river  with  a  total  length  of  4,780  feet,  is  211 
feet  wide  and  19  feet  high.  It  is  built  of  loose  rock 
confined  by  three,  heavy  concrete  walls,  wilh  an 
18-inch  floor  of  concrete  on  top,  and  ha^a  con- 
crete apron  extending  down  stream.  ^A^le  not 
intended  as  a  storage  dam,  it  raises  tSr  water 
about  10  feet.  /i^' 

The  intake  of  the  canal  is  on  the  California 
side  of  the  river,  fourteen  mile  .  north  of  Yuma. 
The  canal  carries  the  water  south  to  a  point  op- 


308  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

posite  the  city,  where  it  drops  it  through  a  syphon 
under  the  Colorado  River,  coming  out  on  the  side 
of  a  hill  to  flow  southward  again,  this  time  cross- 
ing the  International  line  into  Mexico. 

The  lands  irrigated  by  the  system  include:  In 
California,  17,000  acres  on  Indian  reservation;  on 
the  Arizona  side,  20,000  acres  in  the  Gila  bottom, 
53,000  acres  in  the  Yuma  Valley,  and  40,000  acres 
on  the  Yuma  mesa. 

Water  was  first  delivered  on  the  Arizona  side, 
through  the  syphon,  June  28,  1912. 

IRRIGATION  RESOURCES  OF  ARIZONA 

The  natural  flow  of  water  in  the  Gila  River  is 
even  more  fluctuating  than  in  the  Salt,  and  al- 
though the  Reclamation  Service  has  not  yet  under- 
taken to  construct  a  storage  system  for  that  stream, 
several  sites  have  been  favorably  passed  upon  by 
Government  engineers,  the  most  favorable  one 
being  located  a  few  miles  below  San  Carlos.  A 
complication  in  building  a  dam  here  has  arisen 
owing  to  the  fact  that  the  Arizona  Eastern  Rail- 
road Company  has  a  right-of-way  through  the 
canyon  where  the  reservoir  would  be  located. 
However,  it  has  been  estimated  that  a  proper  dam 
and  diversion  weir  can  be  built  for  $6,311,000, 
which  also  includes  payment  to  the  railroad  com- 
pany for  their  right  of  way.  The  increase  in  value 
of  the  lands  watered  by  it  alone  would  more  than 
pay  for  it,  as  it  is  estimated  impounding  the 
average  flow  of  the  Gila  would  water  ninety  thou- 


TILLING  THE  SOIL  309 

sand  acres  of  land.  Part  of  this  water  would  be 
used  by  the  Pima  Indians  on  their  reservation. 
Special  bills  have  been  introduced  in  Congress 
authorizing  the  construction  of  the  San  Carlos 
Dam  on  a  plan  of  repayment  of  cost  by  the  irriga- 
tors similar  to  the  custom  of  the  Reclamation 
Service  in  other  projects. 

At  present  Indians  on  the  Pima  Reservation  are 
using  for  irrigation  water  pumped  from  wells  with 
power  transmitted  from  the  Roosevelt  system. 
These  wells  were  designed  by  W.  H.  Code,  former 
chief  of  the  superintendents  of  irrigation  for  the 
Indians,  and  an  engineer  of  international  repu- 
tation, and  while  they  have  proven  of  great  benefit 
to  the  Pimas,  the  ten  thousand  acres  irrigated  by 
them  are  inadequate  for  their  steadily  increasing 
needs. 

A  small  storage  reservoir  has  been  made  by  a 
recently  completed  dam  on  Granite  Creek  near 
Prescott  and  provides  water  for  irrigation  in  the 
Little  Chino  Valley. 

On  the  night  of  April  14,  1915,  the  Lyman 
storage  dam  on  the  Little  Colorado  River,  above 
St.  Johns,  in  Apache  County,  went  out  in  a  flood, 
taking  two  lives  and  causing  a  money  loss  of  over 
$200,000. 

Later  the  state  Legislature  arranged  to  loan  the 
farmers  of  the  district  $120,000  to  replace  the  dam. 
The  foundation  of  the  clay  cone  is  now — June, 
1918 — entirely  done  and  the  concrete  wings  in 
place.  It  is  expected  that  the  entire  structure  will 
be  finished  January  1,  1919. 


310  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

On  the  upper  Gila,  irrigation  has  been  practiced 
for  a  number  of  years,  the  settlers  using  the  normal 
flow  of  the  river.  Along  the  Arizona-New  Mexico 
line,  five  small  canals  irrigate  lands  in  both  states, 
and  five  more  are  used  wholly  on  the  Arizona  side 
of  the  line.  In  the  Soloman  Valley,  as  far  down 
the  river  as  San  Carlos,  twenty-four  canals  irrigate 
23,728  acres.  Between  San  Carlos  and  Florence 
there  are  four  canals. 

Alfalfa  is  the  principal  crop  on  the  upper  Gila, 
and  in  addition  to  oats,  wheat  and  barley,  decid- 
uous fruits  are  raised,  pears,  peaches  and  apples 
doing  especially  well.  The  farms  are  small,  and 
the  people,  largely  of  the  Mormon  faith,  incline 
towards  intensive  methods  of  farming. 

The  San  Pedro  and  Santa  Cruz  valleys  resemble 
the  upper  Gila  agriculturally.  St.  David,  on  the 
San  Pedro,  watered  both  by  stream  flow  and  by 
wells,  is  a  place  of  gardens,  the  produce  of  which 
finds  ready  market  in  Bisbee  and  vicinity.  Sum- 
mer waters  are  utilized  on  both  the  Santa  Cruz 
and  the  San  Pedro  for  quick  growing  crops  of  corn. 
Winter  rains  aff'ord  water  for  crops  of  wheat  and 
barley.  About  forty-five  small  canals  take  water 
from  the  San  Pedro,  and  probably  sixty  draw  upon 
the  Santa  Cruz  and  its  tributaries.  Ground  waters 
underlie  both  these  valleys  and  are  being  devel- 
oped in  considerable  quantity  by  artesian  wells 
on  the  San  Pedro  and  by  pumping  plants  on  the 
Santa  Cruz. 

The  narrow  strips  of  excellent  land  bordering 
the  upper  Verde  River  and  its  tributaries.  Clear, 


TILLING  THE  SOIL  311 

Beaver,  Oak  and  Dragoon  creeks,  aggregating 
about  8,000  acres,  are  irrigated  by  the  use  of  79 
small  canals.  The  altitude  here  is  from  3,500  to 
5,500  feet,  and  on  the  little  farms  splendid  decid- 
uous fruits  are  raised  in  addition  to  the  usual 
alfalfa  and  grain. 

Irrigation  is  used  to  supplement  rainfall  on 
the  Little  Colorado,  which  varies  from  eight  to 
twenty  inches  per  annum.  Farming  is  combined 
largely  with  the  ranging  of  sheep  and  cattle.  The 
altitude  is  from  five  to  seven  thousand  feet. 

CROPS 

Acreage  in  crops  in  Arizona,  in  1917,  as  com- 
piled by  the  State  Council  of  Defense  and  verified 
by  L.  M.  Harrison,  government  field  agent,  are  as 
follows : 

Maricopa  County 270,000  acres 

Cochise 46,000 

Graham    42,000 

Yuma 36,000 

Pinal   28,000 

Pima  26,000 

Coconino    14,000 

Yavapai   14,000 

Navajo 14,000 

Santa  Cruz 11,000 

Apache  11,000 

Gila  6,000 

Greenlee  4,000 

Mojave  1,350 

Total  523,350  acres 


312  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

The  principal  crops  were: 

Alfalfa 133,000  acres 

Cotton  52,000 

Wheat 33,000 

Corn 32,000 

Other  maizes 60,000 

Beans  and  peas 19,500 

Potatoes   4,400 

Garden  truck 8,000 

Deciduous  orchards  5,259 

Melons 4,800 

Citrus  fruits   2,691 

Olives   601 

According  to  conservative  Government  reports 
in  Arizona,  there  is  irrigation  water,  known  and 
estimated,  which  may  be  developed  by  building 
storage  dams  at  approved  sites  and  by  pumping 
from  an  underground  supply,  for  a  million  and  a 
quarter  acres  of  land.  In  addition  to  this,  the 
area  where  crops  are  raised  by  rainfall  and  rain- 
fall supplemented  by  irrigation  is  steadily  in- 
creasing. 

COTTON  GROWING  IN  ARIZONA 

The  success  attained  by  cotton  growers,  both 
as  to  the  excellence  of  the  product  and  the  profit 
derived  from  its  cultivation,  has  been  so  marked 
that  the  industry  deserves  very  special  mention. 

As  has  already  been  recorded,  cotton  was  grown 
by  the  ancient  cliff  dwellers  around  Navajo  Moun- 
tain, and  by  their  presumed  descendants,  the  Hopis, 
since  the  morning  twilight  of  history,  and  when 
the  Jesuits  and  Franciscans  journeyed  along  the 


TILLING  THE  SOIL  313 

Gila  River  they  marveled  at  the  excellence  of  the 
cotton  raised  and  spun  by  the  Pima  Indians. 

Perhaps  the  first  cotton  raised  by  the  whites  in 
Arizona  was  a  five-acre  patch,  grown  in  1873  by 
John  Osborn,  near  Phoenix.  The  lint  was  combed 
by  hand  and  used  principally  for  making  bed  com- 
forts. After  taking  what  cotton  he  could  use  for 
his  family's  needs,  Mr.  Osborn  gave  the  rest  of  it 
away  to  his  friends,  who  used  it,  unginned,  for 
filling  mattresses. 

In  1884  Felix  G.  Hardwick  raised  five  acres  of 
cotton  on  the  Larsen  ranch  south  of  Tempe,  from 
which  he  picked  3,390  pounds,  unginned,  and  re- 
ceived a  reward  of  $500  offered  by  the  territorial 
Legislature. 

In  spite  of  the  success  of  these  experimental 
patches,  the  cultivation  of  the  crop  was  not  con- 
tinued. The  price  of  short-staple  cotton  was  low 
and  offered  no  attraction  to  the  Arizona  raiser  of 
alfalfa  and  grains.  In  1899  an  official  of  the  De- 
partment of  Forestry  stated  to  Dr.  A.  J.  Chandler, 
a  canal  builder  and  extensive  rancher  in  the  Salt 
River  Valley,  that  he  believed  that  high  priced 
Egyptian  cotton  could  successfully  be  grown  in  the 
Salt  River  Valley.  As  a  result  Doctor  Chandler 
planted  a  five-acre  patch  on  his  ranch  north  of 
Mesa.  The  yield  and  quality  were  so  satisfactory 
that  Doctor  Chandler  induced  Prof.  A.  J.  Mc- 
Clatchie,  an  agricultural  scientist,  to  put  in  a  piece 
on  the  Experimental  Farm  on  Grand  Avenue  near 
Phoenix.  The  lint  harvested  from  this  patch  was 
tested  in  the  Lowell  Textile  School,  where  it  proved 


314  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

14  per  cent  stronger  than  the  same  variety  from 
Egypt. 

In  1902  cotton  growing  was  taken  up  at  Yuma 
by  local  representatives  of  the  Bureau  of  Plant 
Industry,  and  after  a  few  years  of  careful  work 
in  seed  selection  and  cultivation,  the  variety  now 
known  as  the  "Yuma"  was  produced.  In  1907  ex- 
periments in  cotton  growing  were  begun  at  the 
Government  Experiment  Station  at  Sacaton  on  the 
Pima  Indian  Reservation,  where  the  work  came 
under  the  immediate  supervision  of  E.  W.  Hudson. 
Here  what  is  now  known  as  the  "Pima"  variety 
was  evolved,  which  is  considered  the  best  strain 
of  Egyptian  cotton  grown. 

Its  first  production  on  a  large  scale  was  under- 
taken in  fields  south  of  Tempe,  when,  in  1916, 
275  acres  were  scientifically  planted  and  cared  for. 
According  to  George  Butterworth,  ofiicial  classifier, 
there  is  5.73  per  cent  less  waste  in  Pima  than  in 
fancy  Sea  Island.  The  average  length  of  the  Pima 
staple  is  1 11/16  inches — the  longest  in  the  world. 

The  largest  grower  of  cotton  in  Arizona  is  the 
Southwest  Cotton  Company,  a  subsidiary  company 
of  the  Goodyear  Tire  and  Rubber  Company.  The 
Goodyear  people  came  to  the  state  through  the 
efforts  of  Dr.  A.  J.  Chandler  and  T.  W.  McDevitt, 
and  after  being  convinced  that  Pima  cotton  grown 
in  Arizona  was  the  best  in  the  world  for  the  manu- 
facture of  tires,  they  leased  from  Doctor  Chandler 
for  five  years,  with  option  to  buy,  eight  thousand 
acres  of  desert  land  lying  south  of  Chandler  in 
the  Salt  River  Valley.    Under  the  contract  Doctor 


TILLING  THE  SOIL  315 

Chandler  was  to  construct  an  irrigation  system, 
furnishing  pumped  water;  the  Goodyear  people 
were  to  prepare  the  land.  In  December  the  tract 
was  a  primeval  desert  covered  with  creosote  bush, 
sagebrush  and  cacti.  An  army  of  men,  equipped 
with  teams,  tractors  and  implements,  under  skill- 
ful management,  were  put  to  work.  Those  em- 
ployed by  Doctor  Chandler  sank  wells,  installed 
pumping  plants  and  built  concrete  ditches;  those 
working  for  the  cotton  company  cleared,  leveled 
and  bordered  the  land  for  irrigation  and  sowed 
the  seed.  By  May  the  cotton  was  up  and  growing 
on  three  thousand  acres,  and  five  thousand  acres 
of  land  more  were  being  worked  upon. 

The  change  in  the  aspect  of  the  country  was 
little  less  than  miraculous.  This,  however,  is  but 
a  single  unit  of  the  cotton  company's  undertaking. 
Their  plantings  in  1918  were:  Chandler  Ranch, 
7,000;  Anderson  unit,  4,000;  Agua  Fria  Ranch, 
4,000.  The  company  has  built  two  towns,  Good- 
year on  the  Chandler  Ranch,  and  Litchfield  on 
the  Agua  Fria.  At  present,  April,  1918,  the  South- 
west Cotton  Company  employs  2,500  men,  and, 
in  addition  to  numerous  tractors  and  caterpillars, 
uses  1,000  mules.  Electrical  power  for  pumping 
irrigation  water  is  obtained  from  the  Roosevelt 
irrigation  project.  Seventy-five  thousand  acres, 
altogether,  of  cotton  were  planted  in  the  Salt  River 
Valley  in  1918,  and  17,000  acres  in  the  Laguna 
country  at  Yuma. 

Arizona  cotton  has  proven  its  superiority  in 
several  distinct  lines.    It  makes  the  toughest  and 


316  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

best  automobile  tire  fabric  known,  and  the  smooth- 
est and  strongest  thread.  It  also  combines  readily 
with  silk  and  is  even  better  than  Sea  Island  for 
mercerizing.  Possibly  one  of  the  important  uses 
from  now  on  for  Pima  cotton  will  be  the  manu- 
facture of  airplane  wings,  where  length  and 
strength  of  fibre  are  first  requisites.  The  adapta- 
bility to  that  purpose  of  Pima  cotton  was  brought 
to  the  attention  of  Howard  CofFm,  chairman  of 
the  aircraft  board,  by  Dwight  B.  Heard,  chairman 
of  the  Arizona  Council  of  Defense,  and  as  a  result 
the  Government  bought  two  hundred  bales  of  Pima 
cotton  at  Tempe,  paying  seventy-three  cents  a 
pound  for  it,  and  converted  the  staple  into  air- 
plane fabrics  at  a  New  England  factory. 

If  the  name  of  the  man  who  makes  two  blades 
of  grass  grow  where  but  one  grew  before  should 
be  called  blessed,  what  shall  be  said  of  some  of 
our  Arizona  pioneers  who  have  converted  cacti- 
covered  desert,  where  crawled  the  horned  toad  and 
roamed  the  coyote,  into  green  alfalfa  fields,  where 
cattle  stand  knee-deep  in  lush  verdure? 

If  food  will  win  the  world  war,  that  Moloch-like 
devours  our  sons  and  daughters,  what  honors  are 
too  great  for  men  who,  while  the  unspeakable  Hun 
devastates  and  renders  sterile  the  farms  of  France, 
make  fruitful  fields  where  only  cat-claw  and  sage- 
brush grew  before?  In  Arizona  there  is  W.  J. 
Murphy,  who,  besides  turning  literally  thousands 
of  acres  of  desert  into  alfalfa  fields  and  orchards, 
planted  thirty-two  miles  of  shade  trees,  many  of 
them  on  other  people's  property,  just  to  see  the 


TILLING  THE  SOIL  317 

grateful  shadows  in  a  sun-kissed  land,  where  the 
aforesaid  kisses,  along  in  August,  are  just  a  bit 
too  ardent.  Then,  too,  there  is  the  instance  of 
Dr.  A.  J.  Chandler,  who  discovered,  what  no  one 
had  suspected,  that  an  underground  lake  of  water 
lay  under  the  desert  south  of  Mesa,  and,  after 
developing  water  power  by  changing  the  course  of 
an  irrigating  canal,  pumped  the  underground 
water  to  the  surface  and  made  a  fourteen  thousand 
acre  alfalfa  field,  which  he  cut  into  small  fields  and 
sold  on  long  time  to  settlers.  Did  these  men  make 
money  out  of  what  they  did?  We  hope  so.  They 
were  not  posing  as  philanthropists.  What  was 
better,  they  actually  created  possibilities  for  rais- 
ing foodstuffs  for  countless  years  to  come  where 
only  a  wilderness  had  been  before  them. 

Equally  worthy  of  praise  with  the  work  of  such 
captains  of  industry  is  what  is  done  by  the  small 
homesteader,  who  takes  water  from  some  stream 
like  the  East  Verde  or  the  Santa  Cruz  and,  with  his 
own  labor,  waters  his  little  orchard  and  patch  of 
corn. 

Perhaps  the  greatest  praise  of  all,  in  this  matter 
of  beneficial  use  of  water,  should  go  to  an  old 
squaw  who  lives  near  Quitovaquito.  All  the  water 
that  she  had  for  herself  and  her  household  she 
carried  from  a  well  and  poured  into  an  earthen 
oUa  that  stands  in  the  shade  of  her  rude  jacal. 
Under  the  olla  she  planted  a  few  onions  which 
grew  to  maturity,  watered  by  the  drops  that  oozed 
through  the  bottom  of  her  jar  and  fell  to  the 
ground. 


318  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

STOCK  RAISING 

In  its  primitive  condition  about  half  of  Ari- 
zona's area,  or  nearly  forty  million  acres,  was 
available  for  grazing  land.  As  is  noted  in  the 
chapter  on  the  flora  of  Arizona,  the  state  is  rich 
with  many  varieties  of  native  grasses.  On  the 
deserts,  winter  rain  brings  up  a  verdure  which  lasts 
sometimes  through  February,  March  and  into 
April.  In  the  foothills,  where  more  rain  falls, 
herbage  of  one  sort  and  another  will  last  for  a 
month  longer,  and  again  be  quickened  into  life  by 
summer  rains  of  July  and  August.  In  the  plateau 
country  and  in  the  mountains,  forage  plants  are 
watered  by  melting  snows  in  the  winter  and,  ac- 
cording to  the  wetness  or  the  dryness  of  the  season, 
produce  herbage  throughout  the  summer. 

Attracted  by  these  favorable  natural  conditions, 
the  Spaniards,  as  early  as  1780,  commenced  bring- 
ing in  herds  into  what  is  now  the  southeastern  part 
of  Arizona;  and,  during  the  periods  of  peace  with 
the  Apaches,  from  1790  to  1815,  many  flourishing 
haciendas  were  established  from  Tucson,  both 
southeast  and  southwest,  past  the  present  Inter- 
national line.  Here  some  sheep  and  great  herds 
of  cattle  were  raised,  and  it  was  the  survivors  of 
these  latter  herds  that  the  Mormon  battalion  en- 
countered on  the  San  Pedro  in  1846. 

Many  of  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  state  raised 
both  cattle  and  sheep  on  a  small  scale  after  the 
Spaniards  came.  The  Navajos,  the  chief  of  these 
native  herdsmen,  first  derived  their  flocks  by  theft 


TILLING  THE  SOIL  319 

from  the  Spaniards  on  the  Rio  Grande,  and  were 
fairly  well  embarked  on  a  pastoral  vocation  in  the 
early  part  of  the  nineteenth  century. 

Americans  began  bringing  cattle  into  southern 
Arizona  within  a  few  j'^ears  after  the  Gadsden 
Purchase.  In  1857  Bill  Kirkland  brought  a  band 
of  cattle  to  the  Canoa  Ranch,  forty  miles  south  of 
Tucson.  A  pioneer  by  the  name  of  Harrup  tells 
that  he  was  one  of  the  cowboys,  in  '64,  to  drive  a 
band  of  cattle  across  the  desert  from  San  Ber- 
nardino to  Hardeyville,  where  it  was  bought  by  a 
man  of  the  name  of  Stevens  and  taken  on  into 
Williamson  Valley.  About  this  same  time,  W.  S. 
Oury  of  Tucson  imported  forty  milch  cows  which 
he  pastured  near  Tucson.  All  of  the  stock  in  those 
days  had  to  be  guarded  day  and  night  on  account 
of  the  Apaches. 

With  the  coming  of  the  soldiers,  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  Civil  War,  cattle  were  driven  in  by 
beef  contractors,  and  attempts  were  made  at  cattle 
raising  in  the  Territory  to  supply  the  various  posts. 
One  of  the  leading  stockmen  in  the  Territory  in 
the  late  '60s  was  H.  C.  Hooker,  owner  of  the  famous 
Sierra  stock  range  located  near  Fort  Grant,  and 
interested  in  live-stock  enterprises  in  various  parts 
of  the  Territory.  In  1868  he  tried  the  experiment 
of  turning  cattle  out  on  the  rich  grass  in  William- 
son Valley  west  of  Prescott,  but  the  Apaches  raided 
them  so  continuously  that  the  project  was  given  up. 
In  1869  Hooker  had  four  thousand  head  of  cattle 
near  Camp  Crittenden,  but  after  several  raids  by 
the  Apaches  he  took  them  into  the  Papago  country 


320  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

in  the  Arivaca  Valley  not  far  from  the  Mexican 
line.  Just  to  show  their  friendly  attitude  toward 
Hooker,  the  Papagos  stole  all  the  cattle  they  cared 
to  eat  but  undoubtedly  served  as  something  of  a 
buffer  against  Apaches. 

By  1880,  when,  except  in  the  southeastern  part 
of  Arizona,  the  Apaches  were  pretty  well  under 
control,  according  to  census  statistics  there  were 
in  the  Territory  145,000  cattle,  326,000  sheep  and 
9,700  hogs. 

Today  many  of  the  leading  sheepmen,  during 
the  summer  months,  pasture  their  herds  on  the 
high  plateaus  in  the  north-central  part  of  the  state 
and,  in  the  fall,  bring  them  down  by  easy  stages, 
through  the  foothills  to  the  desert,  where,  in  the 
early  spring  they  are  sheared,  and  soon  thereafter 
begin  their  slow  pilgrimage  back  to  the  moun- 
tains. They  are  driven  along  routes  designated 
by  the  Government,  and  the  forest  rangers  see  to 
it  that  they  keep  the  proper  paths.  Indeed,  as 
much  of  the  open  range  is  now  in  the  forest  re- 
serve, the  forestry  officials  largely  have  supervision 
over  the  grazing  of  stock  in  the  state,  setting  cer- 
tain sections  aside  for  sheep  and  certain  others  for 
cattle,  thus  relegating  sheep  and  cattle  wars  to  the 
gun  days  of  the  pioneers.  Herds  of  angora  goats 
are  frequently  encountered  in  such  pla'ces  as  the 
uplands  about  Prescott,  where  they  will  eat  ap- 
parently anything  from  cactus  to  oak  browse. 

In  the  beef  industry  the  ranges  are  largely  used 
as  a  breeding  ground,  the  cattle  being  brought  into 
irrigated  countries  and  fattened  for  the  markets 
on  alfalfa. 


TILLING  THE  SOIL  321 

Although  the  ranges,  with  the  steadily  increas- 
ing numbers  of  small  farmers,  yearly  become  more 
restricted,  yet  in  foothill  and  mountain,  where 
water  is  accessible,  cattle  ranches  commanding 
wide  ranges  may  still  be  found  and  the  thrifty 
headquarter  houses,  corrals  and  barns  give  every 
evidence  of  prosperity.  Fences  enclosing  these 
areas  are  more  common  than  in  former  days,  but 
there  are  still  places  where  herds  more  or  less  in- 
termingle and  rodeas  take  place  in  the  spring  and 
fall  as  of  old. 

The  number  and  value  of  live  stock  in  the  state, 
according  to  the  assessment  list  for  1917,  is  as 
follows: 

Number  Value 

Cattle 900,180    $26,904,962.00 

Milch  cows. . . .  33,277        2,151,547.00 

Sheep  808,220        4,851,980.00 

Goats   142,561  427,774.00 

Swine   22,484  132,917.00 

Buffalo 30  750.00 

OSTRICHES 

A  rather  unusual  experiment  that  has  been 
tried  out  by  the  Arizona  farmers  is  the  raising  of 
ostriches  for  feathers.  The  industry  saw  its  begin- 
ning in  the  state  when,  in  1888,  two  Arizona  farm- 
ers, Josiah  Harbert  and  M.  E.  Clanton,  purchased 
a  breeding  pair  and  twelve  chicks  from  a  Cali- 
fornia exhibition  park.  In  transporting  the  birds 
from  the  station  at  Phoenix  to  the  Harbert  ranch, 
all  of  the  chicks  but  one  were  smothered,  and  to 
complete  the  owners'  misfortunes,  the  following 

21 


322  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

year  the  mother  bird  died  from  the  effects  of  eating 
too  much  barbed  wire. 

This  left  the  old  male  and  one  chick,  who 
doubtless,  being  stirred  to  pity  by  the  straits  to 
which  the  owners  were  reduced,  at  the  end  of  the 
third  3^ear  laid  an  egg.  The  habit  once  formed 
was  persisted  in,  and,  seven  years  later,  in  1898, 
this  admirable  mother  had  ninety-seven  children 
and  grandchildren.  These  birds  found  in  the  Salt 
River  Valley  a  most  congenial  climate,  and  in 
alfalfa  a  perfect  ration. 

The  Harbert  birds  were  a  South  African  strain. 
Later  a  few  big  Nubians  were  imported  into  the 
valley,  and  the  progeny  of  these  different  birds 
multiplied  until  by  1913  there  totalled  over  six 
thousand,  the  largest  number  to  be  found  any 
place  in  the  world  outside  of  Africa. 

However,  though  the  birds  did  exceedingly 
well  and  produced  good  feathers,  the  market  price 
of  plumes  steadily  declined  until,  deciding  that  the 
industry  was  an  unprofitable  one,  the  largest 
ostrich  farm  in  Arizona  disposed  of  its  entire  lot 
of  birds  at  any  price  it  could  get,  taking  as  low  as 
five  dollars  for  ostriches  that  had  been  held  at 
from  two  to  three  hundred  dollars. 

According  to  the  assessment  roll  there  are  now 
(1918)  950  birds  in  the  state,  which  on  the  lists 
are  valued  at  $8.10  apiece. 

BISONS 

The  thirty  buffalo,  or  bison,  in  the  state  belong 

to  a  cattle  company,  and  are  located  north  of  the 

Grand  Canyon.     The  owners   are  crossing  them 

with  cattle,  trying  to  produce  a  new  beef  strain. 


Chapter  XXI 

CHURCHES  AND  SCHOOLS 

THE  MORMONS 

FOLLOWING    the    Catholics,    the    Mormons 
were  the  second  large  religious  denomina- 
tion to  be  actively  engaged  in  church  work 
in  Arizona. 

Among  the  earliest  Mormons  to  penetrate  the 
country,  afterwards  known  as  Arizona,  was  a  party 
of  missionaries  who,  it  is  reported,  visited  the 
Hopi  villages  in  1846.  Later,  in  December  of  the 
same  year,  the  Mormon  battalion,  as  we  have 
noted,  passed  through  the  southern  part  of  the 
state,  which  journey  gave  its  members  excellent 
opportunities  to  observe  the  countrj^'s  agricultural 
possibilities,  and  the  Mormon  colonists  who  after- 
wards settled  in  this  section  were  doubtless  in- 
fluenced in  their  action  by  the  report  of  these 
soldiers. 

The  first  attempt  at  settlement  by  the  Mormons 
here  seems  to  have  been  made  at  Tubac  in  1852, 
but  the  location  was  soon  abandoned  on  account 
of  the  inadequacy  of  the  water  supply  for  irriga- 
tion. Another  early  Mormon  colony  was  the  one 
established  in  1863  or  '64  on  the  Colorado  River, 
in  Pah-Ute  County,  which,  in  honor  of  its  leader, 

323 


324  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Anson  Call,  was  named  Callville.  With  their  usual 
industry,  these  settlers  built  comfortable,  if  primi- 
tive buildings,  constructed  irrigating  canals  and 
practiced  farming.  However,  when  that  part  of 
the  county  was  annexed  to  Nevada,  that  state 
levied  taxes  against  the  land  for  the  years  it  had 
been  a  part  of  Arizona,  although  the  colonists  had 
already  paid  taxes.  This  proved  so  great  a  burden 
that  the  settlers  abandoned  their  farms,  some  of 
them  going  to  southern  Arizona  and  others  to 
Utah. 

In  1865  a  second  colony  left  Utah  under  the 
leadership  of  Thomas  S.  Smith,  and  settled  in  the 
same  region,  at  St.  Thomas,  on  the  lower  Muddy 
River.  By  1871  they  had  three  thousand  cultivated 
acres,  but,  as  in  the  case  of  Callville,  rather  than 
fight  the  matter  of  double  taxation  in  the  courts, 
the  colony,  which  numbered  five  hundred  families, 
left  their  farms  and  returned  to  Utah. 

Also,  in  the  '60s,  a  settlement  was  made  in 
Walnut  Grove,  in  Yavapai  County,  where  five  hun- 
dred acres  were  put  in  cultivation.  Another  settle- 
ment was  made  at  Postle's  Ranch  on  a  branch  of 
the  Verde,  twenty  miles  north  of  Prescott. 

Jacob  Hamblin,  a  personal  friend  of  Brigham 
Young,  in  1858  led  a  party  of  twelve  on  a  mis- 
sionary journey  to  the  Hopis.  The  party  included, 
beside  an  Indian  and  Spanish  interpreter,  a  man 
who  could  speak  Welsh,  for  there  was  a  persistent, 
amazing  theorj^  in  the  early  Arizona  days,  that  the 
Hopis  were  of  Welsh  descent.  Indeed,  no  less  a 
person  than  Delegate  Poston,  in  a  speech  in  Con- 


CHURCHES  AND  SCHOOLS      325 

gress,  refers  to  the  Moquis  as  a  people  "supposed 
to  be  descendants  of  the  Welsh  prince  Madoc,  who 
sailed  from  Wales  for  the  New  World  in  the 
eleventh  century." 

However,  in  spite  of  the  Welsh  interpreter,  the 
Hopis  declined  to  embrace  Mormonism,  just  as 
they  had  turned  a  cold  shoulder  to  Padre  Garces' 
religion  in  1776. 

In  1873  Hamblin  laid  out  the  wagon  road  which 
is  now  used  from  Lee's  Ferry  southward.  In  1877 
a  Mormon  settlement  was  established  at  Moencopie 
Springs  and  called  Tuba  City.  Two  years  later 
John  W.  Young  built  a  woolen  mill  at  the  spring, 
expecting  that  the  Navajos  and  Moquis  would  bring 
in  large  quantities  of  wool.  The  conservative  In- 
dians, though,  seemed  suspicious  of  the  new  ma- 
chinery and  continued  to  work  up  their  wool 
themselves.  Later,  as  the  country  all  about  the 
Tuba  colony  was  included  in  the  Navajo  Reserva- 
tion, the  Government  bought  out  the  mill  and  the 
land  surrounding  it.  All  that  is  left  now  to  show 
for  the  venture  is  the  ruin  of  the  old  stone  building. 

In  January,  1876,  President  Brigham  Young 
called  a  number  of  families  from  Utah  and  Idaho 
to  go  into  Arizona  and  settle  and  do  missionary 
work  among  the  Indians.  In  response,  four  com- 
panies composed  of  fifty  men  each,  besides  women 
and  children,  left  Salt  Lake  City  February'  3,  1876, 
arriving  at  Sunset  Crossing  on  the  Little  Colorado 
in  March.  Here  the  immigrants  divided,  founding 
the  settlements  of  Sunset,  Obed,  Brigham  City  and 
Allen  (afterwards  St.  Joseph).    A  feature  of  special 


326  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

interest  in  connection  with  these  colonies  is  that 
the  experiment  of  holding  all  property  in  common 
was  followed  by  them  for  several  years,  but  while 
it  was  considered  that  the  plan  had  many  good 
features,  it  was  finally  abandoned,  the  property 
being  redivided  according  to  the  amounts  first 
contributed. 

None  of  these  settlements  proved  to  be  perma- 
nent except  St.  Joseph,  the  settlers  locating  else- 
where in  Arizona. 

The  Mormon  town  of  Snowflake,  located  in  the 
southwestern  part  of  Navajo  County,  was  estab- 
lished in  1878.  The  name  might  seem  to  indicate 
a  meteorological  origin,  but  not  so.  The  founders 
were  Erasmus  Snow  and  W.  J.  Flake — Snowflake! 
It  was  inevitable. 

Twenty-two  miles  to  the  south  of  Snowflake 
lies  the  town  of  Show  Low,  and  the  way  it  received 
its  name  is  even  more  unique  than  the  story  con- 
cerning the  northern  town.  Captain  Cooley  and 
Marion  Clark  were  at  one  times  partners,  con- 
trolling the  ranch  where  the  town  was  afterwards 
established.  Once  when  the  two  partners  were 
playing  a  game  of  "seven-up"  and  had  staked 
about  all  their  respective  possessions  on  their 
hands,  suddenly  Clark  exclaimed,  "Show  'low'  and 
you  take  the  ranch."  Cooley  promptly  showed 
"low"  and  the  town-to-be  was  christened.  After- 
wards the  ranch  was  sold  for  $13,000. 

During  the  '70s  a  number  of  parties  from  Utah 
visited  Arizona,  either  on  missionary  tours  or  look- 
ing for  favorable  sites  for  colonization.     One  of 


CHURCHES  AND  SCHOOLS  327 

these  expeditions  was  led  by  Elder  Daniel  W. 
Jones,  a  man  of  ability  and  good  judgment.  This 
party  reached  Phoenix  late  in  1875,  and  after  a 
stop  of  one  day  went  on  to  Hayden's  Mill — after- 
wards known  as  Tempe — where  Chas.  T.  Hayden, 
the  leading  citizen,  gave  them  a  hearty  welcome. 
They  soon  moved  on,  via  the  Pima  villages  and 
Fort  Bowie,  into  Mexico.  Evidently  they  did  not 
find  conditions  favorable  at  that  time  for  coloniza- 
tion in  the  lower  republic,  for  about  a  year  later 
the  expedition  returned  to  Utah. 

The  memory  Jones  carried  of  the  Salt  River 
Valley  seems  to  have  been  a  favorable  one,  for  in 
March,  1877,  Jones,  again  at  the  head  of  a  colony, 
for  a  second  time  arrived  at  Tempe.  On  this 
occasion  he  had  come  to  stay,  settling  his  people 
a  few  miles  up  Salt  River  from  Tempe  at  a  place 
they  called  Jonesville,  now  the  village  of  Lehi. 

Securing  help  from  the  Pima  Indians  they 
dug  a  small  irrigating  canal,  planted  crops  and 
prospered. 

In  1878  a  party  of  seventy-nine  Mormons,  under 
the  leadership  of  F.  M.  Pomeroy  and  G.  W.  Sirrine, 
disliking  the  cold  winters  of  their  home  in  Paris, 
Idaho,  journeyed  as  far  south  as  the  Verde  River 
country  in  central  Arizona.  From  there  they  sent 
a  scouting  party  southward,  which  visited  Jones- 
ville. The  attention  of  the  visitors  was  called  to 
an  old,  prehistoric  canal  which  led  from  Salt  River 
to  the  mesa  above  Jonesville,  which  they  assumed 
had  been  built  350  a.  d.  by  the  "Nephites"  of  the 
Book  of  Mormon.    It  was  obvious  that  by  follow- 


328  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

ing  this  ancient  canal,  a  waterway  by  which  the 
mesa  lands  could  be  irrigated  could  be  constructed 
with  comparatively  little  labor. 

Upon  hearing  the  report  of  their  scouts,  the 
colonists  at  once  came  to  the  new  location,  founded 
a  town  which  they  called  Mesa  City,  and  imme- 
diately started  work  upon  the  canal.  Even  greater 
success  was  achieved  by  this  colony  than  the  one 
at  Jonesville,  and,  the  center  of  a  rich  agricultural 
region.  Mesa  is  now  the  second  city  in  importance 
in  the  Salt  River  Valley. 

The  upper  Gila  Valley,  in  Graham  Countj%  was 
also  settled  by  the  Mormons,  the  first  colony  arriv- 
ing under  J.  K.  Rogers  in  1879.  It  is  now  (1918) 
the  largest  Mormon  district  in  the  state. 

Ecclesiastically,  the  Church  of  the  Latter  Day 
Saints  in  Arizona  is  divided  into  four  "Stakes." 
The  president  of  St.  Joseph's  Stake,  with  head- 
quarters at  Thatcher,  in  the  upper  Gila  country, 
is  Andrew  Kimball.  This  stake  has  ten  meeting 
houses  with  5,493  members.  The  Maricopa  Stake 
has  headquarters  at  Mesa,  with  James  W.  Lesueur 
as  president  with  over  3,500  members,  divided  into 
sixteen  wards.  St.  John's  Stake,  with  headquarters 
at  St.  Johns  in  Apache  County,  has  1,500  members 
in  eight  wards,  with  David  K.  Udall  as  president. 
The  membership  of  the  Snowflake  Stake  is  about 
the  same  as  that  at  St.  Johns.  The  president  is 
Samuel  H.  Smith. 

At  Thatcher,  Snowflake  and  St.  Johns  there  are 
excellent  academies  conducted  under  the  auspices 
of  the  Mormon  church,  the  Thatcher  school  being 


CHURCHES  AND  SCHOOLS  329 

the  most  important,  with  226  students  and  eight 
teachers. 

Practically  all  difficulties  between  Mormons  are 
settled  within  the  church.  Ward  teachers  visit  all 
families  within  their  district.  If  troubles  arise  that 
the  teacher  cannot  adjust,  the  contending  parties 
are  brought  before  the  bishop  for  trial.  The  de- 
cision of  the  bishop  can  be  appealed  to  the  stake 
presidency  and  the  high  council  of  twelve,  and  this 
decision,  if  necessary,  can  be  carried  up  to  the 
first  presidency  and  the  twelve  apostles.  No  charge 
is  made  by  any  church  official  for  services  ren- 
dered to  the  church.  The  extreme  punishment 
meted  out  to  an  offender  is  excommunication. 

The  Mormons  state  with  pride  that  out  of  a 
state  membership  of  about  fifteen  thousand  there  is 
not  one  of  their  denomination  in  an  Arizona  poor- 
farm,  charity  hospital  or  penitentiary.  They  not 
only  do  not  believe  in  drinking  alcoholic  liquors, 
but  as  well  discourage  the  use  of  tobacco,  coffee 
and  tea.  They  tr\^  to  provide  entertainment  for 
their  young  people  within  the  church.  For 
example,  they  give  dances  in  their  meeting-houses, 
opening  and  closing  them  with  prayer. 

In  view  of  their  belief  that  the  Government 
prosecuted  their  leaders  with  undue  severity  in 
the  old  polygamous  days,  the  loyalty  of  the  Mor- 
mons today  to  the  Government  is  noteworthy.  In 
these  times  of  war  they  have  been  conspicuously 
zealous  in  all  avenues  of  patriotic  work,  whether 
it  is  in  buying  liberty  bonds,  co-operating  in  a 
Red  Cross  drive  or  in  giving  their  sons  and  daugh- 
ters to  the  army  and  navy. 


330  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

In  connection  with  the  prosecution  by  the  Fed- 
eral authorities  of  certain  pioneer  Mormons  for 
plural  marriages,  interesting  stories  are  told  con- 
cerning "an  underground  railroad"  by  the  use  of 
which  Mormons,  fleeing  south  from  Utah,  were 
enabled  to  find  sanctuary  in  Old  Mexico.  The 
route  lay  south  across  Lee's  Ferry  down  through 
Snowflake  and  over  the  mountains  to  Mesa,  near 
which  town  a  camp  was  maintained  in  the  Super- 
stition Mountains.  The  journey  through  settled 
regions  was  made  at  night,  the  Mormons  from  each 
Arizona  colony  passing  the  fugitives  from  one 
station  to  another.  From  Mesa  the  journey  was 
taken  to  Deming,  New  Mexico,  and  thence  to  Diaz 
in  Old  Mexico,  where  residence  was  maintained 
until  safety  was  assured  to  the  exiles  in  their  old 
homes. 

THE  RESTORATION  OF  SAN  XAVIER 

As  we  have  seen,  mission  days  in  Arizona  came 
to  an  end  with  the  expulsion  of  the  Franciscans, 
which  followed  soon  after  the  formation  of  the 
Mexican  republic  in  1827.  From  that  time  on 
Tumacacori  has  been  a  ruin,  but  San  Xavier  seems 
to  have  been  occasionally  visited  by  the  priest  at 
Magdalena,  under  whose  charge  it  had  been  placed 
by  the  bishop  of  Sonora.  In  1859  what  is  now 
known  as  Arizona  was  made  a  part  of  the  diocese 
of  New  Mexico,  with  Bishop  Rt.  Rev.  J.  B.  Lamy 
in  charge,  his  headquarters  being  in  Santa  F^. 
Soon  after  this  addition  to  his  diocese  the  bishop 


CHURCHES  AND  SCHOOLS  331 

sent  his  vicar-general,  Rev.  J.  T.  Machebeuf,  on  a 
tour  of  inspection  in  Arizona,  who  reported  Tum- 
acacori  in  ruins  but  San  Xavier  in  fair  condition. 

In  1863  two  Jesuits  from  the  Santa  Clara  Col- 
lege, California,  took  charge  of  the  mission  at  San 
Xavier.  Upon  arrival  they  were  received  by  the 
Indians  who,  with  great  demonstrations  of  joy, 
rang  the  bells  and  exploded  fireworks  in  their 
honor. 

Hearty  as  their  welcome  was,  the  priests  were 
even  more  delighted  when  their  Papago  charges 
brought  to  them  articles  for  the  altar  which  had 
been  kept  hidden  by  the  tribe,  waiting  the  day 
when  their  spiritual  fathers  should  return. 

In  1898  Bishop  Henry  Granjon  of  Tucson  had  a 
large  niche  cut  in  a  little  butte  overlooking  the 
mission,  and  in  it  placed  a  replica  of  the  shrine 
of  Lourdes.  The  land  around  the  mission  is  now 
a  part  of  a  Papago  Indian  reservation,  and  the 
well-tilled  fields  thereon  are  irrigated  by  water 
from  the  Santa  Cruz. 

The  territory  embraced  within  the  limits  of 
Arizona  was  formed  into  a  separate  diocese  in 
1868,  with  Bishop  J.  B.  Salpointe  in  charge.  It  is 
now  known  as  the  diocese  of  Tucson  with  the  Rt. 
Rev.  Henry  Granjon  bishop. 

At  present,  1918,  there  are  within  the  diocese 
thirty-two  parishes  with  resident  priests  and  sixty- 
four  churches  without.  There  is  also  within  the 
state,  conducted  under  Catholic  auspices,  one  col- 
lege for  boys,  six  schools  for  Indians,  one  orphans' 
home  and  four  hospitals. 


332  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

The  Catholic  population  of  the  state  is  given 
as  about  fifty-five  thousand. 

OTHER  CHURCHES 

The  earliest  missionary  activities  of  the  Prot- 
estant Church  in  Arizona,  of  which  we  can  find 
record,  began  in  late  Civil  War  times.  In  1864 
church  services  were  held  in  a  log  cabin  in  Pres- 
cott  by  the  Rev.  Wm.  H.  Reid,  who  was  postmaster 
as  well  as  pastor.  A  Sunday  school  was  organized 
August  7th  of  the  same  year.  Rev.  J.  L.  Dyer  was 
a  Methodist  minister  who  did  missionary  work  in 
the  state  in  1868.  The  First  Presbyterian  mis- 
sionary in  Arizona  seems  to  have  been  Rev.  J.  N. 
Roberts,  who  ministered  to  the  Navajos  in  1869. 
Also,  that  same  year,  James  A.  Skinner  was  sent 
by  the  American  Bible  Society  to  Prescott.  Under 
the  leadership  of  Rev.  George  H.  Adams,  one  of  the 
most  active  of  Arizona's  early  ministers,  in  1879 
a  state  Methodist  organization  was  effected.  The 
Rev.  J.  C.  Bristow  preached  the  first  Baptist  sermon 
to  be  delivered  in  the  state  under  a  cottonwood 
tree  at  Middle  Verde,  October  10,  1875.  In  1880 
the  Baptists  established  the  "Lone  Star"  Church  at 
Prescott,  and  a  year  later  organized  the  Arizona 
Central  Association. 

A  writer  in  1885  says  that  until  Arizona  was 
penetrated  by  railroads  the  mission  boards  found 
great  difficulty  in  securing  men  for  this  isolated 
region.  As  late  as  1880  there  were  but  four  regu- 
larly established  Protestant  places  of  worship  in 


CHURCHES  AND  SCHOOLS      333 

Arizona,  and  these  were  small,  having  a  combined 
seating  capacity  of  one  thousand,  with  a  state 
population  of  thirty  thousand.  By  1885  we  find 
a  marked  improvement.  The  Methodists  had 
churches  at  Tombstone,  Tucson,  Globe,  Florence, 
Prescott,  Phoenix  and  Pinal;  the  Presbyterians  at 
Tucson,  Tombstone,  Phoenix  and  Prescott;  Metho- 
dist South  at  Prescott  and  Phoenix;  Baptist, 
Phoenix,  Prescott,  Globe  and  Tucson;  Congrega- 
tionalists,  Tucson  and  Prescott;  Episcopalians, 
Tucson  and  Tombstone.  At  that  time  the  Mormons 
had  thirty-five  churches  and  a  membership  of  five 
thousand.  The  Catholics,  too,  had  many  parish- 
ioners, including  Mexicans  and  Indians,  and  had 
churches  at  Prescott,  Phoenix,  Florence,  Tucson, 
Tombstone,  Tubac  and  San  Xavier. 

Although,  in  the  Episcopal  Church,  four  bishops 
previously  had  had  nominal  jurisdiction  over  Ari- 
zona, Bishop  George  K.  Dunlap  found,  in  1880, 
"not  a  church  building,  .  .  .  not  an  organized 
congregation,  not  a  clergyman."  During  the  eight 
years  he  was  in  charge  of  the  diocese,  church  build- 
ings were  erected  at  Tombstone  and  Phoenix,  and 
a  congregation  ministered  unto  at  Tucson.  In 
1889  the  diocese,  which  then  included  Arizona, 
New  Mexico  and  Texas,  west  of  the  Pecos,  was 
given  in  charge  of  Bishop  J.  Mills  Kendrick,  one 
of  the  ablest  and  at  the  same  time  one  of  the  most 
unassuming  soldiers  of  the  cross  that  ever  lived  in 
the  Southwest.  For  twenty-three  years  he  traveled 
back  and  forth  over  the  same  weary  desert  Padres 
Kino  and  Garces  had  encountered  nearly  two  hun- 


334  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

dred  years  before.  Under  his  fostering  care 
churches  were  built  at  Prescott,  Globe,  Douglas, 
Bisbee,  Winslow,  Williams  and  Nogales,  all  of 
which  edifices  he  insisted  must  be  built  without 
debt.  When  the  members  of  the  church  at  Tucson 
had  the  walls  up  for  a  new  church,  but  no  money 
in  sight  for  the  roof,  they  suggested  borrowing, 
but  the  bishop  responded  that  he  could  see  no 
finer  compliment  that  could  be  paid  to  the  climate 
of  Tucson  than  for  a  congregation  to  worship  with 
but  the  sky  for  a  covering.  The  members  took  the 
delicate  hint  and  went  down  into  their  pockets 
and  paid  for  the  roof. 

Desiring  to  help  the  Indians  in  a  way  that  the 
Redmen  could  appreciate  was  really  for  their 
benefit  alone,  Bishop  Kendrick  was  the  means  of 
establishing  the  hospital  of  the  Good  Shepherd 
near  Fort  Defiance  on  the  Navajo  Reservation,  his 
thought  being  that  it  would  be  a  memorial  of  an 
unselfish  gift  of  a  strong  race  to  a  weaker  one. 
Apparently  unmindful  of  the  irritations  of  stage 
travel  and  rugged  roadside  lodging  that  would 
have  maddened  a  less  serene  character,  he  used  to 
say  that  at  times  he  noticed  certain  inconveniences 
in  going  about  the  more  remote  portions  of  his 
stupendous  diocese,  but  as  for  discomforts  he 
never  encountered  them.  He  died,  in  1911,  beloved 
by  all  who  knew  him,  and  revered  as  one  of  the 
saints  of  the  earth. 

When  the  overlarge  diocese  originally  covered 
by  Bishop  Kendrick  was  divided,  Arizona  was 
given   in   charge   of   Bishop   Julius   W.   Atwood, 


CHURCHES  AND  SCHOOLS      335 

former  archdeacon  and  rector  of  Trinity  Church, 
Phoenix.  Doctor  Atwood,  a  man  of  scholarly  at- 
tainments and  a  most  efficient  organizer,  has  done 
much  for  his  church  in  the  state,  one  notable 
example  of  his  many  activities  being  the  colony 
sanatorium  of  St.  Luke,  which  was  built  and  is 
being  maintained  largely  through  his  efforts.  It 
is  located  near  the  city  of  Phoenix,  where  patients 
are  treated  for  tuberculosis  in  the  most  com- 
fortable surroundings.  It  is  one  of  the  best  institu- 
tions of  the  kind  in  the  Southwest,  and  has  been  of 
incalculable  benefit  to  many  people. 

According  to  a  statement  made  May  1,  1917,  by 
the  Episcopal  Church,  that  denomination  has  four 
parishes,  eighteen  organized  missions  and  twentj^- 
seven  unorganized  missions  with  seventeen  pres- 
byters and  twenty-five  lay  readers ;  their  communi- 
cants number  2,616,  with  1,215  Sunday  school 
members. 

The  minutes  of  the  general  assembly  of  the 
Presbyterian  Church,  published  May,  1917,  give 
the  following  statistics  for  Arizona:  Ministers, 
38;  local  evangelists,  11;  churches,  44;  church 
members,  4,382;  Sunday  school  members,  4,982. 
Statistics  of  other  denominations,  compiled  by 
Rev.  E.  D.  Raley,  general  secretary  of  the  Ari- 
zona Sunday  School  Association,  are:  Metho- 
dists, 30  churches,  3,700  members;  40  Sunday 
schools,  6,000  attendance;  Baptists,  41  Sunday 
schools,  2904  attendance;  Methodist  Episcopal 
South,  9  churches,  1,400  members;  9  Sundaj'^ 
schools,  1,200  attendance;  Christian,  10  churches. 


336  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

1,000  members;  10  Sunday  schools,  1,200  attend- 
ance; Congregational,  7  churches,  600  members; 
9  Sunday  schools,  700  attendance;  Union  and  other 
schools,  128  with  an  attendance  of  6,155.  The  Bap- 
tists report  38  church  houses  with  50  churches  and 
3,099  members.  The  Christian  Science  Journal 
gives  the  number  of  churches  in  the  state  as 
3,  with  6  societies  and  20  practitioners.  Christian 
Scientists  do  not  give  statistics  as  to  membership. 
Under  the  superintendency  of  Rev.  E.  D.  Raley, 
a  Protestant  orphanage  has  been  established  at 
Tucson,  where  111  children  were  cared  for  in  1917. 
Both  it  and  the  orphanage  of  the  Catholic  Church 
are  doing  excellent  work. 

Y.  M.  C.  A. 

The  Young  Men's  Christian  Association  is  one 
of  the  most  active  organizations  for  moral  and 
spiritual  uplift  in  the  state.  There  are  regularly 
organized  buildings  and  equipment  in  seven  cities, 
divided  as  follows :  City  associations.  Phoenix  and 
Tucson;  industrial  associations,  Bisbee,  Clifton, 
Miami  and  Hayden,  and  a  railroad  association, 
Douglas.  In  addition  to  these  there  are  student 
associations  at  Tucson  and  Tempe,  and  Indian 
associations  in  Phoenix  and  Tucson.  There  are 
army  Y.  M.  C.  A.  buildings  at  Douglas,  Nogales 
and  Yuma,  and  special  war  work  looked  after  at 
Ajo,  Laguna  Dam,  Roosevelt  Dam,  Granite  Reef 
Dam,  Globe,  Miami,  Naco,  Warren  and  Slater's 
Ranch. 


CHURCHES  AND  SCHOOLS  337 

The  Young  Women's  Christian  Association  also 
has  active  organizations  in  the  principal  cities 
of  the  state. 

SCHOOLS 

The  earliest  schools  in  Arizona  were  those  at 
Tucson  and  San  Xavier  del  Bac,  conducted  under 
the  auspices  of  the  Catholic  Church,  most  of  the 
pupils  being  either  Mexicans  or  Indians. 

Governor  Goodwin,  in  his  message  to  the  First 
Legislature,  recommended  that  the  "common 
school,  the  high  school  and  the  university  should 
all  be  established  and  are  worthy  of  your  fostering 
care,"  and,  in  following  out  his  ideas,  the  law- 
makers appropriated  $250  for  the  school  at  San 
Xavier  and  a  like  amount  for  the  schools  at  Pres- 
cott.  La  Paz  and  Mojave,  provided  that  each  town 
raised  a  like  amount.  Five  hundred  dollars  was 
also  appropriated  to  establish  a  public  school  in 
Tucson,  in  which  "the  English  language  was  to 
form  a  part  of  the  daily  instruction." 

Arizona's  second  governor,  Richard  C.  McCor- 
mick,  in  his  message  to  the  Legislature  in  1865, 
says  that  Prescott  was  the  only  one  of  the  four 
towns  of  Tucson,  Prescott,  La  Paz  and  Mojave  to 
take  advantage  of  the  appropriation  offered  by 
the  First  Legislature,  and  adds :  "I  am  inclined  to 
think  that  the  existing  provisions  for  schools  in 
the  various  parts  of  the  territory  are  now  suffi- 
cient." "When  we  remember  that  this  seems  to 
leave  San  Xavier  and  Prescott  the  only  places  of 
learning  in  the  state,  we  are  prone  to  wonder  just 


338  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

what  the  worthy  executive  meant.  Let  us  hope 
that  there  were  also  private  schools. 

The  first  public  school  of  Tucson  was  opened 
in  the  fall  of  1869  and  taught  by  Augustus  Brichta 
who  had  been  assistant  clerk  in  the  Legislature. 

His  pupils  were  all  boys,  and  all  Mexicans — 
fifty-five  of  them — and  the  school  was  held  in  an 
adobe  building  near  Lavin's  Park,  with  a  dirt  floor 
and  no  furniture  but  pine  benches. 

The  following  year  the  school  was  moved  to 
Meyer  Street,  where  a  new  teacher,  John  Spring, 
enrolled  138  boys.  Five  per  cent  of  them  were 
Americans. 

In  1872  Mrs.  L.  C.  Hughes  opened  Tucson's 
first  public  school  for  girls.  It  was  located  at  a 
house  in  Levin's  Park  and  was  well  attended. 

A  year  later  Phoenix  had  its  first  public  school. 
By  1882  there  were  2,844  children  attending  public 
schools  of  the  state,  with  102  teachers  to  instruct 
them.  During  that  year  $83,267.93  was  paid  out 
for  school  purposes.  At  the  same  time  there  were 
9  private  schools  with  15  teachers. 

Today  no  state  in  the  Union  has  a  higher  stand- 
ard for  primary,  grammar  and  high  schools  than 
Arizona.  In  cities  like  Phoenix,  Tucson,  Douglas, 
Bisbee  and  Prescott,  handsome,  well  constructed, 
well  equipped  brick  or  concrete  buildings  are  a 
perpetual  surprise  to  the  visitor,  and  even  in  the 
rural  districts  one  finds  the  school  buildings  not 
only  well  constructed  but  of  artistic  and  pleasing 
design,  with  grounds  often  beautified  with  trees, 
grass  and  flowers. 


CHURCHES  AND  SCHOOLS      339 

The  educational  requirements  of  teachers  are 
high  and  the  work  done  in  the  schools  is  of  the 
best.  Salaries  paid  teachers  compare  favorably 
with  those  in  such  states  as  California  or  Illinois. 

The  amount  of  money  expended  for  the  com- 
mon schools  of  Arizona  for  the  year  1916-17  was 
$2,869,230.  In  1917  there  were  enrolled  in  the 
schools  of  the  state,  primary  and  grammar  schools, 
55,702  scholars;  in  high  schools,  3,664.  In  the 
state's  teaching  corps  there  were  1,448  in  primary 
and  grammar  schools,  and  238  in  high  schools. 

STATE  UNIVERSITY 

Arizona's  State  University  was  brought  into 
being  in  1885  by  the  state  legislature,  more  for 
political  reasons  than  from  an  appreciation  of  the 
value  of  such  an  institution  to  the  state.  It 
"balanced  up,"  giving  a  hospital  for  the  insane  to 
Phoenix,  the  State  Normal  School  to  Tempe,  a 
bridge  to  Pinal  Countj',  a  prison  appropriation 
to  Yuma,  and  letting  Prescott  keep  the  capital  a 
while  longer.  A  forty-acre  site  was  donated  for 
the  campus  by  public  spirited  Tucson  citizens. 
Just  as  the  original  building  was  completed,  a 
Federal  act  was  passed  appropriating  $15,000  to 
agricultural  experimental  stations  connected  with 
state  or  territorial  universities.  Naturally  the 
Board  of  Regents  felt  a  keen  need  for  the  money. 
They  had  no  experiment  station,  but  they  could 
easily  make  a  start  in  that  direction  by  selecting 
a  director.    Selim  M.  Franklin,  one  of  their  num- 


340  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

ber,  was  an  excellent  lawyer  and  could  tell  a 
thistle  from  an  artichoke.  Who  could  make  a 
better  director  than  he  for  the  experimental  sta- 
tion? So  they  elected  him  to  the  position  without 
salarj'^ — and  secured  the  $15,000.  Now  they  had  a 
building  and  a  director,  but  no  students.  High 
schools  were  as  scarce  in  Arizona  in  1885  as  hens' 
teeth,  so  a  "prep"  school  was  started  as  a  feeder 
to  the  higher  halls  of  learning. 

However,  the  University  of  Arizona  soon  passed 
out  of  the  chrysalis  stage.  The  legislatures  were 
liberal  with  appropriations,  handsome  and  well- 
equipped  buildings  were  erected  and  competent 
instructors  secured.  The  aims  of  the  regents  seem 
to  have  been  to  build  up  a  school  that  would 
graduate  young  men  and  women  specially 
equipped  to  meet  conditions  as  found  in  Arizona, 
and  to  that  end  strong  emphasis  have  been  placed 
upon  mining  and  agriculture.  Excellent  as  the 
work  along  these  lines  has  been,  it  has  not  been 
at  the  expense  of  the  cultural  development  of  the 
undergraduate,  and  so  in  addition  to  the  branches 
mentioned  we  find  the  university  embraces  a 
splendid  college  of  letters,  arts  and  sciences.  In 
the  University  Extension  service  special  short, 
mid-winter  courses  are  given  to  farmers  and 
housewives  in  agriculture  and  domestic  science, 
and  investigational  work  of  great  value  is  being 
carried  on  in  various  agricultural  experimental 
stations,  which  work  is  directed  from  the  uni- 
versity. 

Altogether  the  officers  of  instruction  and  in- 


CHURCHES  AND  SCHOOLS  341 

vestigation  number  something  over  one  hundred, 
and  while  we  are  being  statistical  we  may  add  that 
in  1917-18  the  number  of  regular  students  totaled 
440;  special  students,  34;  students  in  short  course 
for  farmers,  121;  in  home  economics,  137;  corre- 
spondence students,  20. 

Not  content,  however,  with  what  has  already 
been  attained,  under  the  able  leadership  of  Presi- 
dent R.  B.  von  KleinSmid,  the  university's  standard 
of  scholarship  and  service  is  constantly  being 
raised,  and  already  this  really  notable  institution 
of  learning  is  taking  an  advanced  position  among 
the  universities  of  the  Southwest. 

MODERN  INDIANS  AND  INDIAN  SCHOOLS 

In  the  Government's  dealings  with  the  Indians 
of  Arizona  in  the  early  pioneer  days,  we  have  seen 
vacillation  and  weakness  in  policy,  many  blunders 
and  much  to  criticize.  Now,  when  we  come  to  con- 
sider what  is  being  done  for  these  native  tribes 
today,  our  only  words  are  those  of  unstinted  praise. 

The  Indians  of  the  state  are  still  chiefly  located 
on  various  reservations.  The  Navajo  agency  head- 
quarters is  located  at  Fort  Defiance,  with  some  of 
the  tribes  coming  under  the  jurisdiction  of  Tuba, 
Leupp  and  Reams  Canyon.  The  Papagos  have 
recently  had  assigned  them,  by  executive  order, 
a  large  reservation  in  southern  Arizona  with  head- 
quarters at  Indian  Oasis.  The  Pimas  are  divided 
between  the  Gila  River  Reservation,  with  head- 
quarters at  Sacaton,  and  the  Salt  River  Reserva- 


342  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

tion,  with  headquarters  at  Salt  River,  the  Apaches 
at  old  Fort  McDowell  also  coming  under  this  juris- 
diction. The  Hopi  agency  headquarters  is  at 
Reams  Canyon.  The  Havasupai  Indians  are  at 
Supai,  in  the  scenic  Havasu  Canyon  south  of  the 
Grand  Canyon.  The  Maricopas  come  under  the 
jurisdiction  of  the  Gila  River  agency.  The  White 
Mountain  Apaches  have  two  large  agencies  at 
White  River  and  San  Carlos.  The  Mojave  Apaches 
are  located  at  Fort  Mojave  and  Colorado  River 
consolidated  agencies.  The  Wallpai  agency  head- 
quarters is  at  Valentine  in  Truxton  Canyon  in 
Mojave  County. 

Under  the  United  States  Indian  service  the 
national  government  is  sparing  no  pains  to  make 
it  possible  for  these  Indians  to  support  themselves 
from  the  soil.  As  we  have  seen,  water  supply  is 
the  determining  factor  in  successful  agricultural 
practice  in  Arizona.  To  this  end  the  Indian  service 
is  building  reservoirs  and  diversion  dams  and  put- 
ting down  wells  wherever  possible. 

On  the  Navajo  and  the  Hopi  reservations,  under 
the  direction  of  Supervising  Engineer  H.  F.  Robin- 
son, the  Government  has  drilled  about  two  hun- 
dred wells,  about  half  of  which  have  been  equipped 
with  windmills  for  pumping  and  tanks  for  holding 
water  for  stock  and  domestic  purposes.  This  has 
increased  the  grazing  area  so  much  that  the  In- 
dians' flocks  of  sheep  and  goats  have  multiplied 
from  one  hundred  to  five  hundred  per  cent  in  the 
past  five  years. 

At  Ganado,  also  on  the  Navajo  Reservation,  an 


CHURCHES  AND  SCHOOLS  343 

irrigation  project,  which  includes  a  storage  reser- 
voir, nears  completion.  Seven  hundred  acres  of 
land  are  now  being  irrigated,  and  it  is  expected 
that  a  thousand  acres  more  may  ultimately  be 
watered  by  the  project. 

At  Salt  Hiver,  in  Maricopa  Countj^  the  Pimas 
irrigate  their  fields  from  water  supplied  by  the 
Roosevelt  irrigation  project.  At  the  Gila  River 
Reservation,  as  has  been  elsewhere  noted,  ten  wells 
pump  water  with  power  derived  from  the  Roose- 
velt power  plants.  This  water  supply  will  be 
further  augmented  when  a  diversion  dam,  now 
being  built  on  the  Gila  above  Sacaton,  is  com- 
pleted. Ultimately  the  San  Carlos  Reservoir  also 
will  be  built,  and  furnish  water  for  the  reservation 
Pimas  as  well  as  to  the  white  farmers  around  Flor- 
ence. Seventeen  thousand  acres  of  land  are  being 
irrigated  for  the  Yuma  Indians  by  the  Laguna 
project.  At  Parker  it  is  planned  to  develop  irriga- 
tion water  by  extensive  pumping,  where  it  is  hoped 
that  about  fifteen  thousand  acres  will  be  irrigated. 

Ignorance  is  as  bad  for  an  Indian  as  it  is  for  a 
white  man.  To  prepare  the  native  to  take  his  place 
in  modern  American  life,  most  excellent  schools 
are  being  maintained  for  him  where  an  education 
fitted  to  his  needs  is  supplied  at  Government 
expense. 

The  chief  school  of  the  state  is  at  Phoenix.  It 
is  co-educational,  and,  including  the  sanatorium, 
which  is  operated  in  connection  with  it,  has  a 
capacity  of  seven  hundred  pupils.  The  school  is 
supported  entirely  by  annual  Federal  appropria- 


344  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

tions,  averaging  about  $135,000.  There  is  a  force 
of  72  employees,  of  whom  12  are  academic  teach- 
ers. Students  are  received  from  about  40  different 
tribes,  at  ages  varying  from  14  to  20  years,  who 
enroll  for  a  period  of  three  to  five  years.  This  en- 
rollment is  voluntary,  but  once  enrolled  the  pupil 
must  remain  for  the  entire  period. 

The  school  teaches  girls  sewing,  cooking,  laun- 
dering, nursing  and  general  home-making  indus- 
tries. The  boys  receive  instruction  in  agriculture, 
including  care  of  dairy  and  garden,  poultry  hus- 
bandry, blacksmithing,  painting,  engineering  and 
electric  work,  plumbing  and  sheet  metal  work, 
printing,  tailoring  and  harnessmaking.  The 
course  in  these  trades  covers  four  years  and  is 
known  as  the  vocational  division  and  follows  the 
completion  of  the  sixth  grade;  hence  the  graduates 
have  the  equivalent  of  two  years'  high  school  work, 
besides  their  industrial  training.  One-half  of  each 
day  is  spent  in  industrial  work. 

In  addition  to  the  Phoenix  school  there  are 
about  thirty  governmental  day  schools  in  the 
state  and  nine  boarding  schools,  all  situated  on 
various  reservations. 

In  addition  to  this  there  are  a  few  private 
schools,  usually  under  the  auspices  of  some  reli- 
gious organization. 

The  question  is  often  asked,  "What  becomes  of 
the  students  when  they  return  to  the  reservation?" 
In  considering  the  matter,  one  must  keep  in  mind 
that  individuals  differ  among  Indians  the  same  as 
they  do  among  whites.    Some  succeed,  others  fail, 


CHURCHES  AND  SCHOOLS  345 

and  the  determining  factors  for  success  or  failure 
are  with  them  very  much  as  they  are  with  us. 

The  Phoenix  Indian  School  was  founded  in 
1891,  and  when  the  first  graduates  returned  to  the 
reservation,  it  need  not  be  considered  strange  if 
their  new  ideas  were  received  with  some  distrust 
and  suspicion  by  the  older  members  of  the  tribe. 
Today,  when  the  Pima,  for  example,  returns  to  the 
reservation,  he  is  met  by  middle-aged  Indians  who, 
like  himself,  have  had  the  benefits  of  schooling, 
and  the  improved  condition  on  the  reservation 
today,  though  not  so  conspicuous,  possibly,  are 
as  real  as  they  are  in  white  communities  in 
Arizona. 

If  we  have  given  the  renegades  among  the  old 
fighting,  depredating  Apache  a  hard  name,  we  here 
take  pleasure  in  saying  that  among  the  most  intelli- 
gent pupils  in  the  modern  Indian  schools  are  the 
Apaches.  Members  of  the  same  tribe  did  good 
work  on  the  Roosevelt  Dam,  and  young  men  of  the 
tribe  equipped  with  an  industrial  education  are 
now  useful,  valuable  members  of  society. 

Members  of  all  the  principal  tribes  of  the  state 
since  the  beginning  of  the  European  War  have 
enlisted  not  only  in  the  army,  but  in  the  navy  as 
well,  and  hold  their  own  with  the  whites. 


Chapter  XXII 
THE    SPANISH-AMERICAN    WAR 

ARIZONA'S  military  contribution  in  the 
Spanish-American  War  was  three  troops  in 
the  First  United  States  Volunteer  Cavalry — 
the  famous  "Rough  Riders" — and  three  companies 
of  the  First  Territorial  Infantry. 

In  Arizona  the  recruiting  for  a  cavalry  force 
began  even  before  the  declaration  of  war,  April 
21, 1898,  and  was  looked  after  in  the  northern  part 
of  the  state  by  Wm.  O.  O'Neill,  a  prominent  Ari- 
zona journalist  and  politician,  subsequently  cap- 
tain of  the  Rough  Riders,  and  Jas.  H.  McClintock, 
a  well-known  journalist  who  afterwards  became, 
first,  a  captain  of  the  Rough  Riders  and  later 
colonel  in  the  Arizona  National  Guard. 

Although  nearly  one  thousand  men  were  re- 
cruited for  cavalry  service,  and  though  their  offi- 
cers promptly  off'ered  their  services  to  the  nation, 
when  the  call  finally  came  from  Washington  it  was 
for  but  210  men,  which  were  to  constitute  a  part 
of  "a  crack  regiment  of  cavalry  .  .  .  for  spe- 
cial duty." 

Governor  Myron  H.  McCord  nominated  Alex- 
ander O.  Brodie  as  major,  and  McClintock  and 
O'Neill  as  captains. 

Brodie,  later  to  be  Arizona's  governor,  was  a 

346 


THE  SPANISH-AMERICAN  WAR  347 

graduate  of  West  Point  and  one  of  General  Crook's 
lieutenants  in  his  campaign  against  the  Indians. 
He  had  retired  from  the  army  to  become  a  civil 
engineer.  Brodie,  McClintock  and  O'Neill  were 
splendid  men  and  made  good  officers. 

The  lieutenants  in  O'Neill's  troop  were  Frank 
Frantz  and  Robert  S.  Patterson.  Those  to  go  with 
McClintock  were  Lieut.  J.  L.  B.  Alexander  and 
Lieut.  George  Wilcox. 

The  mustering  in  took  place  at  Fort  Whipple 
Barracks,  from  where  Arizona's  two  troops,  A 
and  B,  of  107  men  each,  were  taken  to  San  Antonio. 
Here  Col.  Leonard  Wood  assumed  command  and 
the  regiment  received  its  war  training.  At  San 
Antonio  thirty-seven  men  from  A  and  B  troops 
were  given  to  a  new  troop  "C"  of  which  J.  L.  B. 
Alexander,  prominent  Phoenix  attorney,  was  given 
command;  Second  Lieutenant  Patterson  was  ad- 
vanced to  a  first  lieutenant  in  troop  C,  and  Hal 
Sayre,  a  Colorado  soldier,  was  made  second  lieu- 
tenant. In  troop  B,  Wilcox  was  made  first  lieuten- 
ant, and  First  Serg.  T.  H.  Rynning,  of  regular  army 
experience  and  afterwards  captain  of  the  Arizona 
Rangers,  was  advanced  to  the  position  of  second 
lieutenant. 

It  was  at  San  Antonio  that  the  term  Rough 
Riders  was  really  earned.  The  regiment  was  given 
a  lot  of  half -broken  range  horses  to  ride  that  would 
often  enliven  the  tedium  of  parade  by  bucking  all 
"over  the  lot."  It  was  also  there  that  the  inspiring 
strains  of  "A  Hot  Time  in  the  Old  Town  Tonight" 
were  played  so  often  by  the  regimental  band  that 


348  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

the  Texans  decided  that  it  must  be  the  battle  hymn 
of  the  Rough  Riders. 

The  next  halt  on  the  way  to  Cuba  was  made 
by  the  Rough  Riders  at  Tampa,  Florida,  which 
was  reached  June  4th,  and  there  they  were  made  a 
part  of  the  First  Cavalry  Brigade  under  command 
of  Gen.  S.  M.  B.  Young. 

On  June  7th  word  came  that  eight  dismounted 
troops,  including  A  and  B,  of  seventy  men  each, 
were  to  go  forward  while  the  rest  were  to  remain 
at  Tampa  with  the  horses,  with  the  understanding 
that  they  were  to  follow  soon.  Lieut.-Col.  Theo- 
dore Roosevelt  and  Major  Brodie  each  commanded 
four  of  the  troops  that  went. 

There  was  much  confusion  of  orders,  but  on 
June  13th  the  eight  troops  finally  got  to  sea  on  a 
transport,  the  Yucatan  No.  8.  Landing  was  made 
at  Daiquiri,  Cuba,  on  June  22d.  The  next  after- 
noon the  regiment  was  marched  twelve  miles 
through  a  jungle  to  Siboney. 

The  day  following  the  engagement  of  Guasimas 
was  fought.  The  Spanish  force  was  estimated  at 
4,000;  the  Americans  numbered  940.  The  engage- 
ment lasted  for  about  two  hours  in  which  the 
Americans  advanced  steadily,  firing  at  will. 

Captain  McClintock  says  that  probably  the 
Spaniards  had  been  leaving  their  entrenchments 
for  some  time  before  the  final  rush  of  the  Rough 
Riders,  for  when  the  Americans  reached  the 
trenches  only  twenty-nine  Spanish  dead  were 
found. 

Of  the  Arizona  men,  Major  Brodie  was  shot  in 


THE  SPANISH-AIVIERICAN  WAR  349 

the  arm,  Captain  McClintock  received  several 
machine  gun  bullets  in  the  ankle,  Corp.  George  H. 
Dohert>^  and  Private  Edward  Ligget  were  killed, 
and  T.  W.  Wiggins  and  N.  L.  Orme  badly  wounded. 

Colonel  Wood  was  now  given  the  rank  of  a 
brigadier  general  and  Colonel  Roosevelt  became 
commander  of  the  Rough  Riders,  leading  his  troops 
in  person  and  sparing  himself  no  labor  in  seeing 
that,  in  a  campaign  woefully  mismanaged,  his 
troops  received  what  comforts  he  could  provide 
for  them. 

The  Arizona  Rough  Riders  had  an  active  part 
in  the  sharp  fighting  at  San  Juan  Hill,  July  1st  to 
3d,  besides  gallantly  participating  in  the  rest  of 
the  Santiago  campaign.  At  San  Juan,  led  by 
Colonel  Roosevelt,  they  charged  an  extension  of 
the  main  height  called  Kittle  Hill  and  took  it, 
driving  a  large  force  of  Spanish  infantry  from 
their  entrenchments. 

There  were  not  a  few  deaths  in  the  Cuban 
campaign,  both  in  action  and  from  fever-infested 
camps.  Captain  O'Neill  was  killed  in  the  first  day 
of  the  San  Juan  fight,  when  Frank  Franz  was  ad- 
vanced to  his  place. 

Worn  by  fever  even  more  than  with  the  usual 
hardships  of  fighting,  the  regiment  left  Santiago 
August  8th  for  Montauk  Point,  to  which  place 
Troops  C,  H,  I  and  M,  which  had  been  left  at 
Tampa,  had  been  removed  a  few  days  before. 
The  regiment  was  mustered  out  of  the  service 
September  15,  1898. 

A  splendid   statue   in   bronze  of   a  mounted 


350  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

soldier  in  action,  typifying  Captain  O'Neill  and 
dedicated  to  the  Rough  Riders,  has  been  placed  in 
the  court  house  plaza  of  Prescott.  The  statue, 
striking  in  appearance,  is  the  work  of  Solon  Bor- 
glum,  and  is  a  fitting  memorial  of  the  services  of 
Arizona's  famous  troopers. 

The  First  Territorial  Infantry,  through  their 
officers,  made  every  endeavor  to  get  to  the  front, 
but  never  were  nearer  Cuba  than  Camp  Church- 
man, near  Albany,  Georgia.  The  regiment,  a 
splendid  body  of  men,  was  well  officered  and 
would  doubtless  have  given  as  good  an  account 
of  itself  in  the  battlefield  as  the  First  Cavalry  had 
it  been  given  the  opportunity.  The  officers  in- 
cluded: Colonel,  Myron  H.  McCord;  mayor,  Frank 
Russell;  regimental  adjutant,  J.  W.  Crenshaw. 

Company  A  of  Phoenix  was  originally  organ- 
ized with  Russell  as  captain,  Crenshaw,  first  lieu- 
tenant, and  with  F.  W.  Hill  as  second  lieutenant. 
The  men  were  all  recruited  from  the  National 
Guard.  Company  B,  with  Capt.  Herbert  S.  Gray 
and  Lieuts.  Wiley  E.  Jones  and  Emanuel  Drach- 
man,  recruited  its  men  from  Tucson  and  other 
southern  towns.  Company  C  of  Prescott  and  Flag- 
staff had  for  its  officers  Capt.  C.  E.  Donaldson, 
Lieuts.  F.  C.  Hochderfer  and  W.  G.  Scott.  With 
the  promotion  of  Russell  to  the  position  of  major, 
George  Christy  became  Captain  of  Company  A; 
Hill,  first  lieutenant,  and  E.  M.  Lamson,  second 
lieutenant. 


Chapter  XXIII 
ARIZONA  AT  LAST  A  STATE 

IT  was  on  St.  Valentine's  Day,  February  14, 
1912,  at  10  o'clock  a.  m.,  that  President  Taft, 
with  a  bright,  new,  gold  pen,  affixed  his  sig- 
nature to  the  proclamation  making  Arizona  a  state. 
Immediately  afterwards  the  President  advised 
Governor  Sloan  of  his  action  by  telegraph  and 
extended  his  congratulations  to  the  people  of  the 
state  thus  created. 

As  soon  as  Governor  Sloan  received  the  mes- 
sage he  at  once  proclaimed  the  day  a  holiday, 
under  the  title  of  "Admission  Day,"  and  the  state 
gave  itself  over  to  rejoicing. 

The  inauguration  of  Gov.-elect  G.  W.  P.  Hunt 
was  performed  with  democratic  simplicity.  De- 
clining the  use  of  an  automobile  as  being  out  of 
the  spirit  of  the  new  administration,  Governor 
Hunt,  followed  by  a  long  train  of  friends  and  per- 
sonal adherents,  walked  the  mile  or  more  that  lay 
between  his  hotel  and  the  capitol. 

As  the  governor-elect  appeared  on  the  front 
portico  of  the  building,  he  was  enthusiastically 
cheered  by  the  throng  of  people  who  had  gathered 
to  do  him  honor. 

In  his  address  he  referred  to  the  constitution 
in  terms  of  warmest  commendation  and  pledged 

351 


352  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

himself  and  his  administration  to  its  progressive 
principles.    Thus  statehood  had  its  genesis. 

The  first  United  States  judge  to  be  appointed 
in  the  commonwealth  thus  reborn  was  Ex-Gov. 
R.  E.  Sloan.  However,  Judge  Sloan  was  not 
wholly  popular  with  the  democratic  politicians. 
First,  he  was  a  republican,  which  was  bad  enough; 
secondly,  while  known  to  his  friends  as  anything 
but  a  reactionary,  when  compared  with  the  spirit 
of  the  new  constitution  he  was  most  decidedly  con- 
servative, which  was  worse.  So,  as  various  charges 
had  been  made  against  Sloan  accusing  him  of  un- 
fitness for  office,  his  appointment  was  held  up  by 
the  Senate  at  the  instance  of  the  two  Arizona  mem- 
bers. However,  this  did  not  prevent  Judge  Sloan 
from  receiving  an  ad  interim  appointment  in  Au- 
gust from  President  Taft,  and  from  holding  the 
position  until  the  end  of  the  presidential  term. 

Wm.  H.  Sawtelle,  the  present  United  States 
District  Judge,  was  appointed  in  August,  1913. 

The  First  State  Legislature  convened  March  18, 
1912.  In  the  Senate  there  were  four  republicans 
and  fifteen  democrats,  with  M.  G.  Cunniff  as  presi- 
dent; the  House,  composed  of  four  republicans  and 
thirty-one  democrats,  had  Sam  B.  Bradner  for 
speaker.  These  lawmakers  were  a  busy  lot,  pass- 
ing ninety-six  acts  and  six  joint  resolutions.  In- 
cluded in  the  laws  thus  created  were  many  favor- 
ing labor  and  many  making  regulations  for  rail- 
roads. One  of  these  regulations  specified  the 
maximum  number  of  cars  to  be  allowed  to  a  train; 
another  gave  the  number  of  men  to  be  employed 


ARIZONA  AT  LAST  A  STATE  353 

on  trains  and  engines;  a  third  specified  tlie  mini- 
mum of  candle  power  permitted  in  a  lieadlight. 

Among  the  "labor"  acts  may  be  mentioned  an 
act  prescribing  a  lawful  day's  work,  an  act  to 
provide  for  employers'  liability  to  workmen  and 
an  act  regulating  the  employment  of  women  and 
minors. 

Teachers  who  had  taught  for  twenty-five  years 
in  the  Arizona  public  schools  might  be  pensioned, 
and  free  textbooks  were  to  be  provided  for 
children. 

One  important  piece  of  legislation  passed 
created  a  state  tax  commission,  consisting  of  three 
persons,  which  was  given  large  powers  in  the 
supervision  of  the  tax  system  of  the  state.  This 
act  was  specially  advocated  by  Governor  Hunt, 
who  stated  that  the  proposed  plan  would  make  a 
notable  advance  not  only  in  giving  the  different 
counties  a  uniform  tax  levy,  but,  as  well,  would 
insure  an  adequate  and  equitable  assessment  of 
copper  mines  and  other  valuable  corporation 
owned  property  in  the  state. 

To  further  the  agricultural  interests  of  the 
commonwealth,  a  horticultural  commission  was 
established,  and  an  appropriation  made  for  the 
investigation  of  the  water  resources  of  the  state. 

A  special  session  of  the  Legislature  began  May 
23d  and  ended  June  2, 1912.  At  this  session  eighty- 
four  acts  were  passed  with  five  concurrent  resolu- 
tions— surely  laws  enough  to  make  everybody  good 
and  regulations  enough  to  make  everybody  happy! 

At  the  republican  convention  held  at  Tucson 

23 


354  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

June  3, 1912,  to  elect  delegates  to  the  national  con- 
vention, there  developed  a  decided  split  in  the 
party.  Both  Maricopa  and  Cochise,  the  two  most 
populous  counties  in  the  state,  were  in  favor  of 
Roosevelt;  nevertheless,  through  the  aid  of  the 
chairman,  both  were  claimed  for  Taft.  Not  un- 
naturally the  Roosevelt  faction  withdrew  and  held 
a  separate  convention,  only  to  have  their  delegate 
refused  admittance  when  the  national  convention 
assembled  at  Chicago. 

At  the  fall  election,  1912,  Arizona  again  showed 
how  firmly  she  had  aligned  herself  with  the  demo- 
cratic party.  The  vote  for  president  was  as  fol- 
lows; Wilson,  10,324;  Roosevelt,  6,949;  Debs,  3,163; 
Taft,  3,021 ;  Chafm,  prohibitionist,  265. 

Also,  at  the  same  election,  Arizona  voted  upon 
a  number  of  constitutional  amendments  and  re- 
ferred bills,  the  most  important  of  which  was 
woman's  suffrage,  which  received  the  substantial 
endorsement  of  the  people  in  a  vote  of  13,452  for 
to  6,202  against. 

Here  it  may  be  said  that  the  only  surprising 
thing  about  granting  the  women  of  Arizona  the 
franchise  is  that  it  wasn't  given  them  sooner.  Un- 
doubtedly they  would  have  voted  years  earlier  if 
the  politicians  had  been  of  the  same  mind  as  the 
average  citizen. 

Equality  between  the  sexes  in  the  state,  when 
one  comes  to  think  of  it,  certainly  has  the  sanction 
of  antiquity.  It  existed  to  a  surprising  extent 
among  the  aboriginal  races.  With  the  intelligent 
Hopis,  the  woman  builds  the  house — and  rules  it — 


ARIZONA  AT  LAST  A  STATE  355 

just  as  the  man  tills  the  field  and  is  master  there. 
Membership  in  the  tribal  clans,  which  is  a  birth- 
right, descends  through  the  mother;  and  the  girl, 
quite  as  often  as  the  youth,  takes  the  initiative  in 
proposing  marriage. 

In  the  case  of  the  Zunis,  "the  children  belong 
to  the  mother,  and  she  can  order  the  husband  from 
the  house  should  occasion  arise." 

As  has  been  mentioned  elsewhere  in  this  his- 
tory, the  Navajo  woman  occupies  quite  as  impor- 
tant a  place  in  the  tribal  life  as  a  man.  She  knows 
her  rights  and  isn't  afraid  to  assert  them. 

Whether  the  women  of  the  white  pioneers  felt 
the  influence  of  this  environment  we  do  not  pre- 
tend to  say,  but  they  certainly  occupied  no  inferior 
part  to  the  men  in  establishing  homes  in  the 
wilderness. 

In  the  early  Mormon  settlements,  and  there 
were  many  such  in  the  state,  the  women  not  only 
took  an  active  part  in  the  work  of  the  church,  but 
also  in  the  matters  pertaining  to  civic  duties  as 
well.  Andrew  Kimball,  president  of  one  of  the 
four  principal  divisions  of  the  Mormon  Church  in 
Arizona,  in  the  Twentj'-first  Legislature,  in  1901, 
led  the  fight  for  woman  suffrage,  but  was  beaten 
by  the  politicians.  Gov.  N.  0.  Murphy,  in  1892, 
and  Gov.  L.  C.  Hughes,  in  1893,  favored  such  a 
measure.  For  many  years  women  in  Arizona  have 
voted  at  school  elections,  both  in  the  matters  of 
bond  issue  and  election  of  trustees,  and  they  cast 
their  ballot  with  quite  as  much  wisdom — or  folly — 
as  their  male  relatives. 


356 


THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 


The  truth  is  that  the  politicians  were  afraid  of 
the  women — afraid  they  would  vote  the  state 
"dry" — which  they  did;  and  afraid  they  would  do 
all  sorts  of  other  unreasonable  and  revolutionary 
things — which  they  did  not — or  certainly  no  more 
than  the  men. 

At  the  first  election  for  state  officers  following 
her  enfranchisement,  two  women  were  elected  as 
members  of  the  state  legislature,  Mrs.  Frances  W. 
Munds,  of  Prescott,  to  the  Senate,  and  Mrs.  Rachel 
Berry,  of  Apache  County,  to  the  House.  Two  j^ears 
later,  in  1917,  Mrs.  P.  M.  O'Neill,  of  Phoenix,  who 
had  also  been  elected  a  presidential  elector  in 
1914,  Mrs.  Theodore  Marsh,  of  Nogales,  and  Mrs. 
Rosa  McKay,  of  Bisbee,  were  members  of  the 
House.  The  political  records  of  these  women  com- 
pare very  favorably  with  those  of  the  masculine 
members.  All  have  been  democrats,  and,  with 
possibly  one  exception,  most  ardent  partisans. 
They  have  been  industrious,  capable,  anything 
but  frivolous;  and,  as  might  have  been  expected, 
conspicuous  champions  of  all  moral  measures. 
Whether  any  great  matters  of  public  policy  in 
Arizona  have  been  changed  owing  to  woman's  pos- 
session of  the  ballot  (with  the  possible  exception 
of  prohibition)  is  to  be  doubted;  on  the  other  hand, 
none  of  many  predicted  disasters  have  come  to 
pass.  The  usual  procedure  is  for  a  husband  and 
wife  to  look  over  the  sample  ballot  and  decide  for 
whom  they  both  will  vote.  Perhaps  conjugal 
opinions  are  apt  to  differ  more  as  to  the  merits 
of  proposed  initiative  or  referendum  measures 


ARIZONA  AT  LAST  A  STATE  357 

than  as  to  candidates.  One  thing  is  certain,  Ari- 
zona women  as  a  whole  have  proven  that  they 
exercise  the  right  of  franchise  quite  as  intelli- 
gently as  the  male  citizens.  For  the  credit  of  the 
masculine  sex,  we  hope  this  may  be  taken  as  a 
favorable  comment. 

A  bill  limiting  the  railroad  fare  to  three  cents 
a  mile  was  passed  by  the  First  State  Legislature 
and  approved  by  the  people  in  a  referendum  vote 
in  the  fall  of  1914;  nevertheless,  when  it  came  up 
as  a  factor  in  a  case  before  the  Supreme  Court, 
it  was  decided  that  changes  in  public  service 
charges  could  only  be  made  by  the  corporation 
commission. 

Other  initiative  measures  which  carried  at  the 
1914  election  included  one  prohibiting  blacklisting 
of  laborers,  an  old  age  and  mothers'  pension  act 
and  an  "Act  to  Protect  Citizens  of  the  United 
States  in  the  Employment  of  Non-citizens  of  the 
United  States  in  Arizona." 

All  three  of  these  measures  were  later  declared 
unconstitutional  by  the  courts. 

By  far  the  most  important  initiative  measure 
passed  by  the  people  that  fall  was  that  prohibiting 
the  manufacture  or  sale  of  intoxicating  liquors, 
which  carried  with  a  majority  of  3,144,  the  greatest 
strength  for  the  measure  coming,  as  might  be  ex- 
pected, from  agricultural  sections. 

If  in  the  pioneer  days  a  man  had  predicted  that 
the  time  would  come  when  Arizona  would  vote 
itself  "dry,"  he  would  have  been  considered  a  fit 
subject  for  an  alienist. 


358  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

In  those  times  an  Arizonan  who  didn't  take  an 
occasional  drink  was  looked  upon  with  decided 
suspicion. 

Among  the  elements  that  made  for  Arizona's 
first  governor's  popularity  were,  according  to 
Parish,  that  "He  enjoyed  a  toddy,  liked  a  game  of 
'draw,'  and  was  pleasant,  affable  and  courteous 
to  everyone." 

Yet  Governor  Safford,  as  early  as  1874,  stated 
that  nine-tenths  of  the  crimes  of  the  day  were  due 
to  ardent  spirits. 

In  1884  a  visit  of  Miss  Frances  Willard  to 
Tucson  resulted  in  the  organization  of  a  territorial 
W.  C.  T.  U.  A  few  months  before  a  local  branch 
had  been  established  at  Prescott  and  later  branches 
were  started  in  Phoenix  and  other  places  in 
Arizona. 

In  1901  a  local  option  bill  was  passed  by  the 
Twenty-first  Territorial  Legislature,  and  in  Novem- 
ber, 1914,  as  has  been  stated,  the  voters  of  the  state 
passed  a  prohibition  measure  as  a  constitutional 
amendment. 

While  the  women  were  very  active  in  the  fall 
campaign  against  the  "  Demon  Rum,"  they  would 
scarcely  have  won  without  the  help  of  the  "average 
business  man,"  and  the  average  business  man  voted 
"dry"  not  because  he  considered  the  drinking  of 
intoxicating  liquors  sinful,  but  because  he  be- 
lieved that  its  use  made  most  men  less  efficient 
and  did  no  man  any  good.  Contractors  employing 
many  laborers  had  learned  that,  under  local  op- 
tion, labor  was  at  least  five  per  cent  more  efficient 


ARIZONA  AT  LAST  A  STATE  359 

in  a  dry  town  than  in  a  wet  one,  so  they  decided 
that  they  would  like  to  try  the  experiment  of  a 
dry  state. 

Generally  speaking,  the  law  has  been  enforced. 
Most  sheriffs  and  city  police  officers,  who  in  the  old 
days  took  their  convivial  glass  with  their  friends 
as  a  matter  of  course,  now  see  in  the  question  only 
a  statute  that  must  be  complied  with. 

As  might  be  expected,  boot-legging  has  been 
attempted  in  most  of  the  towns,  but  it  is  a  pre- 
carious and  hazardous  business. 

In  Phoenix,  to  cite  but  a  single  example,  in  the 
spring  of  1918,  a  man  who  was  bringing  in  liquor 
in  an  automobile  was  shot  while  resisting  an 
officer. 

To  correct  deficiencies  in  the  original  law 
which  enabled  the  chronically  thirsty  to  ship  in 
ardent  spirits  from  wet  states,  an  amendment  to 
the  constitution  was  submitted  to  the  people  of 
the  state  at  the  fall  election  in  1916.  Under  this 
additional  law  it  not  only  was  unlawful  for  anyone 
to  ship  in  liquor,  but  to  have  the  same  in  one's 
possession.  Exceptions,  however,  w^ere  made 
which  allowed  the  use  of  wine  for  sacramental 
purposes  and  permitted  the  University  of  Arizona 
to  use  grain  alcohol  for  scientific  purposes.  It 
also  provided  for  the  general  use  of  denatured 
alcohol. 

This  measure  passed  by  a  much  larger  majority' 
than  the  original  law,  giving  evidence  that  the  peo- 
ple as  a  whole  were  satisfied  with  the  experiment. 

In  1914  all  the  democrats  holding  state  offices 


360  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

secured  renomination  except  Atty.-Gen.  G.  P.  Bul- 
lard,  who  had  resigned,  and  in  November,  in 
opposition  to  the  republicans  and  progressives, 
they  were  all  elected  to  a  man.  Bullard  was  suc- 
ceeded by  Wiley  E.  Jones.  Among  the  others  so 
chosen  were  Governor  Hunt,  Congressman  Hay- 
den,  Senator  Smith  and  Secretary  Sidney  P. 
Osborn. 

When  the  Legislature  convened  January  11, 
1915,  with  fifty-three  democrats  and  one  lone  re- 
publican, among  the  many  acts  passed  was  one 
prohibiting  barbering  on  Sunday,  and  another 
creating  a  bureau  of  mines  at  the  state  university. 
Greenlee  County  was  to  be  assisted  in  obtaining 
artesian  water  and  Congress  was  memorialized  to 
have  a  barbed  wire  fence  built  on  the  International 
Line  between  Arizona  and  New  Mexico. 

A  second  session  was  called  to  convene  April 
23d,  and  a  third  June  1,  1915. 

In  the  summer  of  1916  George  A.  Olney  an- 
nounced himself  as  a  democratic  candidate  for 
governor  in  opposition  to  Gov.  G.  W.  P.  Hunt. 

Governor  Hunt,  from  his  record  both  when 
president  of  the  Constitutional  Convention  and  as 
governor,  was  considered  the  special  champion  of 
labor  and  a  friend  of  labor  unions  and  represented 
the  more  radical  wing  of  his  party.  Olney,  on  the 
other  hand,  was  considered  a  conservative,  and 
was  supposed  to  have  the  backing  of  the  "business 
men."  Also,  he  was  accused — a  serious  indictment 
in  the  eyes  of  many  a  voter — to  have  the  "support" 
of  the  copper  mine  owners. 


ARIZONA  AT  LAST  A  STATE  361 

In  the  campaign  which  followed  the  adherents 
of  the  two  candidates  fought  each  other  with  a 
warmth  seldom  equaled  in  conflicts  between 
parties. 

At  the  primary  election,  Hunt  was  easily  the 
victor,  winning  by  a  substantial  majorit5\  This 
passage  at  arm,  however,  proved  to  be  but  a  pre- 
liminary skirmish;  the  real  battle  was  to  be  be- 
tween Governor  Hunt  and  the  republican  nominee, 
Thos.  E.  Campbell,  who  had  been  his  party's  can- 
didate for  Congress  in  1912,  and  had  been  elected 
tax  commissioner  in  1914. 

The  republican  party  in  the  state  was  un- 
doubtedly in  the  minority,  but  with  the  conserva- 
tive element  in  the  democratic  party  wholly 
opposed  to  Hunt,  it  was  believed  that  Campbell 
had  a  good  chance  to  be  elected.  Still,  with  Hunt's 
undoubted  strength  among  the  working  people  and 
the  radicals,  his  followers  predicted  an  easy  vic- 
tory for  their  chief. 

When  election  day  was  over  and  the  returns 
began  to  come  in,  it  was  seen  that  the  vote  would 
be  verj^  close.  Finally,  after  a  season  of  suspense, 
the  official  count  gave  Campbell  a  plurality  of 
Just  thirty  votes. 

As  was  expected,  a  contest  was  at  once  started 
by  Governor  Hunt  with  Eugene  Ives  as  counsel. 
Later  F.  C.  Struckmeyer,  L.  B.  Whitney  and  Frank 
E.  Curley  were  also  put  on  the  case.  Campbell's 
law^'ers  were  Ex-Gov.  R.  E.  Sloan,  Judge  John  H. 
Campbell,  John  L.  Gust,  E.  S.  Clark  and  the  firm 
of  Ballard  &  Jacobs.    The  case  was  tried  before 


362  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Judge  R.  E.  Stanford,  in  whose  court  judicial  in- 
spection of  ballots  began  December  12th,  and,  with 
many  interruptions,  continued  to  May  21,  1917. 

In  the  meantime,  on  January  1,  1917,  on  a  writ 
of  mandamus  issued  by  the  Supreme  Court,  Camp- 
bell entered  upon  his  duties  as  de  facto  governor — 
with  honors  but  without  salary — pending  the  final 
judgment  of  the  court. 

Here  is  may  be  said  that  during  the  period  Gov- 
ernor Campbell  occupied  the  executive  chair,  he 
made  a  most  excellent  governor,  although,  with  a 
Legislature  containing  but  one  republican,  it  was 
scarcely  possible  for  him  to  do  much  towards 
influencing  lawmaking.  Nevertheless,  being  a 
man  of  striking  personality  and  tact,  he  filled  his 
trying  position  with  ability  and  dignity.  When 
the  strikes  at  the  copper  mines  grew  serious,  he 
went  at  once  to  Globe,  and  in  his  endeavors  to 
reconcile  the  differences  between  employers  and 
laborers  he  showed  sympathy  for  the  workmen 
with  a  real  grievance  as  well  as  an  appreciation 
of  the  rights  of  property  owners. 

In  the  Bisbee  deportation  trouble  he  was  as  firm 
in  denouncing  the  lawless  methods  employed  by 
those  responsible  for  the  deportation  and  the  subse- 
quent arbitrary  methods  used  in  dealing  with  "labor 
agitators"  as  he  was  in  expressing  his  condemna- 
tion of  the  I.  W.  W.,  whose  seditious  doctrines  and 
threatened  violence  had  precipitated  the  affair.  In 
the  governor's  words:  ".  .  .  The  principles  of 
the  Industrial  Workers  of  the  World  are  a  stench 
in  the  nostrils  of  decent  Americans.     Insofar  as 


ARIZONA  AT  LAST  A  STATE  363 

my  power  as  governor  of  Arizona  extends,  I  shall 
not  tolerate,  in  the  remotest  degree,  their  applica- 
tion in  Arizona.  A  menace  to  civil  well  being  and 
industrial  progress  in  time  of  peace,  the  toleration 
of  such  doctrines  during  a  state  of  war  is  treason. 

The  contest  before  Judge  Stanford  was  finally 
decided  in  favor  of  Governor  Campbell,  the  court 
ruling  that  he  was  elected  by  a  plurality  of  sixty- 
seven  votes. 

An  appeal  to  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  state 
was  taken  May  15th,  and  on  December  22,  1917, 
that  body  reversed  the  decision  of  the  trial  court, 
announcing  through  Chief  Justice  Franklin  "That 
the  said  George  W.  P.  Hunt  was  .  .  .  and  is 
now  the  duly  elected  governor  of  the  state  of  Ari- 
zona .  .  .  that  he  is  entitled  to  the  office  with 
all  its  official  belongings,  and  since  the  first  Mon- 
day in  January,  1917,  to  all  of  its  emoluments." 
The  change  in  the  recount  in  the  precincts  con- 
sidered by  the  Supreme  Court  gave  Hunt  a  ma- 
jority of  thirty. 

Perhaps  there  has  never  been  a  man  active  in 
Arizona  politics  who  has  been  so  cordially  liked 
by  his  friends  as  is  Governor  Hunt,  nor  so  whole- 
heartedly execrated  by  his  enemies,  who  say  he  is 
a  demagogic  politician.  However,  a  demagog 
doesn't  often  do  things  from  principle  that  he 
knows  will  make  him  political  enemies.  Governor 
Hunt  did  them  every  day.  A  student  of  crimi- 
nology, in  the  face  of  violent  criticism  he  made 
radical  changes  in  disciplinary  measures  at  the 
state  prison,  abolishing  the  ball   and  chain,  the 


364  -     THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

silence  system,  the  tight-cropped  head,  and  the 
conspicuous  uniform.  He  sent  convicts,  on  their 
honor,  out  to  work  upon  highways  without  guards. 
At  times  his  confidence  has  been  sadly  abused,  but 
even  though  he  carried  his  theories  to  an  extreme 
that  he  has  done  more  good  than  harm  by  his 
prison  methods  no  one  who  has  investigated  his 
work  can  deny. 

As  a  farmer  boy,  his  parents,  living  in  a  dis- 
trict in  Missouri  impoverished  by  the  Civil  War, 
were  unable  at  times  to  buy  him  proper  school 
books.  As  a  man  he  put  a  measure  through  the 
Legislature  granting  free  textbooks  to  Arizona 
school  children. 

His  popularity  in  his  home,  Gila  County,  is 
shown  in  the  fact  that  it  sent  him  to  the  Legislature 
for  six  different  terms. 

The  Third  Legislature  convened  January  8, 
1917,  and  in  some  mysterious  manner  it  appeared 
that  five  republicans  had  secured  election  to  the 
Senate  and  four  to  the  House.  The  rest  were 
democrats,  and  among  the  ninety  laws  enacted  may 
be  mentioned  one  for  the  establishment  of  free 
employment  bureaus  in  the  state,  an  act  appro- 
priating $200  for  painting  the  portraits  of  certain 
legislative  officers,  establishing  two  game  preserves 
and  an  act  abolishing  the  "common"  towel  and  the 
"common"  drinking  cup. 

At  the  primaries  held  in  September,  1918,  Fred 
T.  Colter,  a  prominent  member  of  the  Constitu- 
tional Convention  and  two  succeeding  legislatures, 
was  given  the  democratic  nomination  for  governor. 
Colter,  who  was  supposed  to  represent  the  radical 


ARIZONA  AT  LAST  A  STATE  365 

wing  of  his  party,  was  opposed  in  the  primaries 
by  Fred  Sutter,  conservative,  and  Sidney  P.  Osborn, 
who  was  inclined  more  to  the  "middle  of  the  road." 

In  the  republican  ranks,  ex-Governor  Campbell 
was  the  one  nominee,  his  large  vote  at  the  election 
two  years  earlier  and  his  excellent  record  while 
occupying  the  governor's  chair,  preceding  the 
supreme  court  decision  which  unseated  him,  mak- 
ing him  the  one  logical  candidate. 

At  the  November  election,  in  spite  of  the  fact 
that  Arizona  is  normally  democratic  by  a  sub- 
stantial majority.  Governor  Campbell  received 
25,927  votes  against  25,588  cast  for  Colter.  George 
D.  Smith,  socialist  candidate  for  the  office,  re- 
ceived 444. 

Campbell's  plurality  of  339  was  considered  not 
only  a  tribute  to  his  undeniable  personal  popu- 
larity, but  an  endorsement  of  his  uncompromising 
stand,  during  the  labor  troubles  of  1917,  against 
the  I.  W.  W.'s  and  all  that  they  represented  as 
well  as  a  victory  for  a  more  conservative  political 
doctrine  as  opposed  to  Colter's  presumed  extreme 
radicalism. 

Maj.  Carl  Hayden,  democrat,  whose  proven 
ability  and  loyal  services  to  Arizona  in  the  Na- 
tional House  of  Representatives  gave  him  a  strong 
following  in  Arizona  among  republicans,  in  addi- 
tion to  his  constituents  within  his  own  party,  was 
returned  to  Congress  by  a  vote  of  26,815  against 
16,822  cast  for  Lieut.  Thomas  Maddock,  republican, 
then  with  the  American  army  in  France,  and  754 
for  P.  T.  Robertson,  socialist. 


366  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Ten  proposed  laws  were  submitted  to  the  vote 
of  the  people,  all  of  which  carried  except  one,  a 
workman's  compensation  act  in  case  of  injury, 
etc.,  prepared,  presumably,  by  the  mine  owners 
and  opposed  by  the  labor  unions. 

The  other  nine  bills  included  restoration  of 
public  works  to  the  contract  system,  restoration  of 
capital  punishment,  redistricting  state  legislative 
districts  so  that  house  members  would  be  elected 
from  smaller  units  and  an  anti-vaccination 
measure. 

Fourteen  democrats  and  five  republicans  were 
sent  to  the  state  senate;  while  for  the  house,  the 
count  of  ballots  showed  twenty-six  democrats  and 
nine  republicans  elected. 

STATE  FLOWER,  ANTHEM  AND  FLAG 

Arizona  has  its  own  official  flower,  anthem  and 
flag.  Its  flower  is  the  white,  wax-like  blossom  of 
the  Suhuaro  (the  Cereus  giganteus)  which  puts 
forth  its  petals  in  June.  Its  anthem,  "Hail  to  Ari- 
zona! the  Sun-kissed  Land,"  was  written  by  Mrs. 
Frank  Cox  and  Mrs.  Elise  R.  Averill.  Roth  flower 
and  anthem  were  adopted  by  the  Twenty-first  Ter- 
ritorial Legislature. 

The  flag,  which  was  adopted  by  the  Third  State 
Legislature,  is  described  as  representing  the 
"copper  star  of  Arizona  rising  from  a  blue  field  in 
the  face  of  the  setting  sun." 


I 


LAKE  MARY 

On  Automobile  Road  South  of  Flagstaff 

riiotograpli  by  James  McCullocU 


Chapter  XXIV 
SCENIC   ARIZONA 


THE  GRAND  CANYON 

IN  Arizona,  Nature  reveals  herself  in  many  ways 
of  unusual  grandeur  and  beauty.  The  desert 
in  moonlight,  with  the  giant  cacti  standing 
like  ghostly  sentinels  guarding  the  wide  expanse 
of  plain;  the  Painted  Desert,  which  at  sunrise, 
with  the  different  colored  rocks  and  stretches  of 
red  and  brown  earth,  has  the  effect  of  a  gorgeous 
striped  ribbon;  the  San  Francisco  Peaks,  snow- 
clad;  the  glory  of  the  views  on  the  Apache  Trail; 
the  purple  shadows  in  the  early  morning  on  the 
west  escarpment  of  the  Superstitions;  the  Roose- 
velt Lake  in  late  evening;  the  wisps  of  rain  that 
in  summer  showers  fall  like  bridal  veils  in  the 
canyons  of  the  upper  Hassayampa — all  these  are 
scenes  of  quite  indescribable  loveliness;  yet,  as 
the  ghostly  rainbow  of  the  moon,  sometimes  seen 
in  the  deserts  of  the  southwest,  pales  before  the 
radiant  bow  of  day,  so  all  the  wonders  of  the 
views  of  which  we  have  hinted  become  small  be- 
fore the  majesty  and  sublimity  of  the  Grand  Can- 
yon of  the  Colorado. 

The  greatest  writers  have  tried  to  describe  it, 

367 


368  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

the  foremost  of  our  painters  have  striven  to  re- 
produce it  on  canvas,  and  yet  when  one  sensitive 
to  form  and  color  views  it  for  the  first  time,  after 
the  minute  of  silence  when  the  glory  of  it  sinks 
into  the  soul — one  can  but  murmur  as  though 
standing  in  a  holy  place,  under  the  very  mantle 
of  the  gods,  "How  could  one  dream  it  would  be 
like  this!" 

What  do  the  statistics  mean?  The  average 
width  of  the  canyon  is  eight  miles,  but  portions  are 
wider.  Its  sides  are  a  succession  of  rocky  slopes 
and  precipitous  cliffs,  some  are  huge  steps  five 
hundred  feet  straight  down.  The  total  descent  is 
over  a  mile  below  the  north  rim. 

The  river  itself  is  about  three  hundred  feet 
wide  and  thirty  feet  deep. 

The  walls  of  the  canyon  are  red,  yellow,  black, 
gray,  brown — painted  with  a  gorgeousness  that  is 
the  artist's  despair,  and  varied  by  ever-changing 
lights  and  shadows,  by  summer  showers,  by  win- 
ter's snows,  by  clouds  that  form  in  the  depths  of 
this  caldron  of  Nature  and  rise  upward  like  great, 
white  balloons.  What  do  you  care  whether  the 
river  is  three  hundred  feet  wide  or  thirty?  To 
you,  as  you  watch  from  Grand  View,  it  is  a  river 
of  platinum,  dividing  masses  of  sardonyx,  jade  and 
turquoise. 

Yet,  there  is  another  side  to  the  story,  and  that 
is  where  the  history  part  comes  in.  For  years  the 
Colorado  River,  as  it  flowed  between  its  mighty 
walls,  was  as  unexplored  as  was  the  plateau  of 
Tibet  or  the  uplands  of  Bolivia  a  half  century  ago. 


I 
i 


SCENIC  ARIZONA  369 

Coronado's  soldiers,  Don  Garcia  Lopez  de  Car- 
denas, Captain  Melgosa  and  Juan  Galeras  tried 
to  descend  to  the  river  from  the  canyon  rim  and 
failed.  Gen.  W.  H.  Ashley,  leader  of  a  fur-trading 
expedition,  in  1825,  while  descending  Green  River, 
a  Utah  tributary  of  the  Colorado,  became  trapped 
between  the  walls  of  the  canyon  but  finally  escaped 
before  really  reaching  the  heart  of  the  gorge. 
Lieutenant  Ives,  in  his  Arizona  explorations,  en- 
tered the  Black  Canyon  from  the  lower  river,  but 
turned  back,  dismayed  by  the  towering,  flanking 
walls. 

So  the  canyon  was  ever  an  unaccepted  chal- 
lenge until  one  day  Maj.  John  Wesley  Powell,  a 
one-armed  veteran  of  the  Civil  War  and  a  pro- 
fessor of  geology,  came  along  and  took  the  dare. 
On  May  24,  1869,  with  nine  companions  in  four 
boats,  he  embarked  at  Green  River  City,  Wyoming, 
and,  after  shooting  innumerable  rapids  and  whirl- 
pools, with  adventures  piled  upon  adventures, 
with  many  a  danger  passed,  with  many  a  hair- 
breadth escape,  on  August  30th,  all  but  three  of 
the  party  reached  in  safety  the  mouth  of  the  Rio 
Virgin.  As  for  the  missing  three — about  the 
middle  of  August,  when  near  the  end  of  the  granite 
stretches,  the  rapids  ahead  looked  so  forbidding 
that  Seneca  and  0.  G.  Rowlands  and  W.  H,  Dunn 
decided  rather  than  further  court  drowning  to 
withdraw  from  the  party.  They  took  firearms, 
but,  as  provisions  were  very  low  would  accept  no 
food,  expecting  to  find  game  enough  to  exist  upon. 
After  infinite  toil  they  succeeded  in  climbing  out 


370  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

of  the  canyon,  only  to  be  slain  a  few  days  later 
by  a  band  of  Ute  Indians,  while  the  rest  of  the 
party  passed  the  forbidding  rapids  in  safety. 

A  second  expedition  was  undertaken  by  Powell 
in  1871.  This  time  he  received  $10,000  from  the 
Government  to  help  defray  expenses,  and  in  addi- 
tion to  navigating  the  canyon,  he  undertook  to 
survey  the  country  for  twelve  miles  each  side  of 
the  gorge. 

Besides  Powell  the  party  included  A.  H.  Thomp- 
son, topographer,  and  F.  S.  Dellenbaugh,  an  artist 
and  writer,  and  eight  others.  Again  taking  Green 
River  City  as  a  starting  point,  the  journey  was 
commenced  May  22d,  and  on  October  22d  the  party 
reached  Lee's  Ferry. 

On  August  13,  1872,  after  much  topographical 
work  had  been  done,  seven  of  the  original  party, 
including  Powell,  once  more  embarked,  and  after 
passing  through  Marble  Canyon  and  one  hundred 
miles  of  the  Grand  Canyon,  reached  the  mouth  of 
Kanab  Wash,  September  7,  1872,  where  high  water 
made  it  expedient  to  abandon  the  trip. 

Capt.  G.  M.  Wheeler,  in  1871,  headed  a  party 
that  started  from  Camp  Mojave,  on  the  lower 
Colorado,  on  September  15th.  After  a  most  ardu- 
ous trip  the  expedition  reached  the  mouth  of 
Diamond  Creek,  north  of  Peach  Springs,  on  Octo- 
ber 20th,  when  it  was  considered  impractical  to 
proceed  farther. 

In  1889  Frank  M.  Brown,  a  Denver  capitalist, 
impelled  by  the  daring  notion  that  a  railroad  could 
be  built  through  the  Grand  Canyon  to  the  Gulf  of 


SCENIC  ARIZONA  371 

California,  attempted  to  pass  through  the  gorge  on 
a  reconnaissance.  Starting  down  the  Green  River 
there  were  with  him  fifteen  men  in  six  very  light 
boats.  Disaster  followed  the  party  at  every  turn. 
Brown  lost  his  life  fifteen  miles  below  Lee's  Ferry, 
and,  four  days  thereafter,  two  more  of  the  expedi- 
tion were  drowned  in  Marble  Canyon. 

Undaunted  by  the  death  of  his  leader,  in 
1889-90,  R.  B.  Staunton,  Brown's  engineer,  with 
better  built  boats,  made  the  voyage  through  the 
entire  series  of  canyons,  down  the  Colorado  to  the 
Gulf  of  California.  Starting  with  eleven  men  be- 
sides the  leader,  one  of  the  party,  F.  A.  Nims,  had 
a  fall  in  Marble  Canyon  which  broke  his  leg.  He 
was  lifted  up  over  a  1,700-foot  cliff  and  carried 
across  a  plateau  to  a  point  where  he  could  be 
reached  by  wagon.  Three  others  abandoned  the 
trip  en  route. 

A  most  successful  navigation  of  the  river  was 
made  in  1896-97,  when  two  Mormon  trappers, 
Nathan  T.  Galloway  and  William  Richmond,  drove 
two  boats  of  their  own  manufacture  from  the 
Wyoming-Utah  line  to  the  Needles. 

On  September  12,  1909,  Julius  Stone,  accom- 
panied by  Nathan  T.  Galloway  as  guide  and  R. 
A.  Cogswell,  a  landscape  photographer,  with  two 
others,  outfitted  with  four  flat-bottomed  boats,  left 
Green  River  and  reached  Needles  November  15, 
1909.  The  boats  were  made  by  Galloway,  and  the 
two  navigated  by  him  and  Stone  come  through 
without  an  upset — a  remarkable  record. 

Two  years  later,  the  Kolb  brothers,  Emery  and 


372  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Ellsworth,  practical  photographers,  made  the 
voyage  through  the  canyon  for  the  purpose  of 
taking  motion  pictures  and  other  photographs. 
The  trip  was  quite  as  full  of  thrills  and  adventures 
as  any  that  had  preceded  it,  and  in  addition  to  the 
really  wonderful  pictures  that  were  secured,  the 
record  of  their  adventures  has  been  made  into  a 
most  interesting  book  written  by  Ellsworth  L. 
Kolb. 

No  account  of  the  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Colo- 
rado would  be  complete  that  did  not  mention  the 
writings  of  George  Wharton  James,  who  has  been 
making  pilgrimages  along  the  canyon  walls  for 
years.  James  not  only  has  the  faculty  of  observing 
new  things  with  a  discerning  eye  and  seeing  old 
things  from  new  points  of  view,  but  can  also  tell 
about  them  in  vigorous  and  picturesque  English. 

The  canyon  may  now  be  visited  with  comfort, 
via  the  Sante  Fe,  which  has  a  branch  railroad  run- 
ning almost  to  the  very  rim.  At  the  terminus  is  a 
beautiful  and  commodious  hotel,  El  Tovar. 

AUTOMOBILE  ROADS 

With  the  exception  of  a  few  miles  of  roads 
leading  out  of  Phoenix,  Arizona  has  as  yet  (in 
1918)  no  paved  state  boulevards.  Within  the  state, 
however,  there  are  to  be  found  excellent  highways 
through  some  of  the  most  beautiful  country  in 
America.  Many  of  these  roads  have  been  built 
under  the  supervision  of  skillful  engineers  through 
the  mountains  with  easy  grades.    In  the  highlands 


SCENIC  ARIZONA  373 

of  the  state,  and  often  in  the  desert  country,  de- 
composed granite,  caliche  or  other  good  road  sur- 
face material,  easily  accessible,  has  been  used  for 
road  covering  with  most  excellent  results. 

Three  National  highways  cross  the  state.  The 
most  northerly  of  these  is  the  National  Old  Trails 
road.  This  enters  the  state  from  New  Mexico, 
going  through  Springerville,  Holbrook,  Flagstaff, 
Ashfork,  Kingman,  and  leaves  the  state  at  the 
Needles  on  the  Colorado.  Except  for  a  short  dis- 
tance in  Mojave  County,  the  road  crosses  a  plateau 
a  mile  or  more  above  sea  level  where  it  is  cold 
enough  for  an  occasional  snow  in  winter,  but 
where,  in  summer,  a  delightful  climate  can  be 
found.  Almost  rainless  in  June,  there  will  be  en- 
countered not  infrequently  summer  showers  in 
July  and  August.  The  fall  months  are  also  fine, 
but  after  the  first  of  the  year  there  may  be  winter 
rains  or  snows.  Going  northerly  from  Flagstaff 
and  Williams  are  excellent  roads  leading  to  the 
Grand  Canyon. 

Very  good  roads  also  lead  from  Flagstaff  to 
such  points  of  interest  as  Oak  Creek,  where  there 
is  trout  fishing,  the  cliff  dwellings,  the  San  Fran- 
cisco peaks,  the  Hopi  Indian  villages  and  the 
Painted  Desert. 

These  roads,  as  well  as  the  one  going  from 
Flagstaff  to  Ash  Fork,  pass  through  beautiful  pine 
forests.  From  Adamana  there  is  a  good  road  lead- 
ing to  the  petrified  forest,  a  short  drive  to  the  south. 

From  Holbrook  one  can  drive  southward  to  the 
White  Mountains,  a  distance  of  sixty  miles  or 
thereabouts. 


374  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

The  White  Mountain  trip  is  a  perpetual  source 
of  surprise  to  the  traveler  who  associates  Ari- 
zona only  with  the  desert  and  the  Gila  Monster. 
Here  grow  pine,  fir,  spruce  and  juniper.  Here 
wild  turkeys  and  blue  grouse  are  common,  and 
trout  streams  abound.  It  is  a  paradise  for  the 
summer  camper  and  as  attractive  as  the  Yellow- 
stone. 

Roads  to  the  Navajo  and  Hopi  Indian  Reserva- 
tion leave  the  Old  Trails  road  at  Holbrook,  Wins- 
low  and  Canyon  Diablo. 

The  Ocean  to  Ocean  Highway  also  enters  the 
state  from  the  east  at  Springerville,  going  from 
there  in  a  southwesterly  direction  over  the  high 
timber-covered  White  Mountain  plateau  to  Globe; 
from  thence  the  road  leads  westward  over  the 
scenic  Apache  Trail  past  the  great  Roosevelt  Reser- 
voir to  Phoenix.  From  Phoenix  westward  one 
reaches  California  across  the  desert,  either  via 
Yuma  or  Parker. 

The  main  road  connecting  the  Old  Trails  road 
with  the  Ocean  to  Ocean  Highway  goes  south  from 
Ash  Fork  via  Prescott  to  Phoenix.  The  road  from 
Ash  Fork  to  twenty  miles  or  so  south  of  Prescott 
is  in  pines,  but  from  this  point  the  road  drops  down 
through  picturesque  foothills  and  finally  over 
cacti-covered  desert.  From  Prescott  one  can  make 
very  interesting  side  trips  to  the  Verde  Valley, 
where  cliff  dwellings  can  be  visited,  or  to  the  moun- 
tain tops  where  there  is  spread  out  to  the  view  as 
beautiful  scenery  as  any  that  the  world  contains. 

There   is    another   road   running   north   from 


SCENIC  ARIZONA  375 

Roosevelt  along  Tonto  Creek,  through  Payson  and 
Pine,  and  then  climbs  up  the  mighty  Mogollon 
Rim,  and  crosses  the  Mogollon  plateau  to  Winslow 
or  Flagstaff.  Much  of  this  road  also  is  through  a 
beautiful  pine  and  oak-covered  country. 

The  most  southerly  transcontinental  road 
through  Arizona  is  the  Borderland  Highway, 
which  enters  the  state  from  El  Paso  and  the  east 
along  the  line  of  the  El  Paso  and  Southwestern 
Railroad.  It  touches  the  Mexican  border  at  Doug- 
las, then  goes  northwest  through  Tombstone,  Tuc- 
son and  Florence  to  Phoenix.  Westward  from 
Phoenix  the  traveler  takes  one  of  the  roads  already 
mentioned,  to  California. 

It  is  scarcely  worth  while  here  to  speak  other- 
wise than  very  generally  of  the  condition  of  these 
roads.  Except  during  times  of  rain,  the  northern 
roads  are  apt  to  be  always  in  a  fairly  good  condi- 
tion, and  after  rains  the  road  overseers  repair  as 
rapidly  as  possible  any  damage  by  storms.  The 
highways  through  the  southeastern  part  of  the 
state  are  also  generally  good. 

HOTELS 

The  residents  of  the  valleys  of  central  and 
southern  Arizona  claim  to  have  the  finest  winter 
climate  in  the  world — and  prove  it.  Nowhere 
else  does  one  find  in  winter  such  sparkling  sun- 
shine, such  mildness  on  February  days,  such 
radiant  skies,  such  clear,  starlit  nights  and  such 
freedom  from  mists,  dews  and  fog.    In  the  high- 


376  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

lands  of  Arizona  one  finds  a  summer  climate  as 
perfect  as  are  the  winter  days  in  the  valleys. 
Here  one  has  the  same  sparkling  sunshine  but 
with  a  tonic  in  the  cool,  bracing  mountain  air, 
redolent  with  the  odor  of  the  pines,  as  refreshing 
as  spring  water  to  thirsty  lips. 

With  these  great  climatic  resources,  the  two 
parts  of  the  state  thus  complementing  each  other, 
it  is  not  strange  that  every  year  increases  the 
number  of  visitors  to  Arizona.  To  meet  the  de- 
mands for  modern  accommodations  for  the 
stranger,  excellent  city  hotels  have  been  built, 
such  as  the  Adams,  Jefferson  and  Commerical  in 
Phoenix,  the  Santa  Rita  in  Tucson,  the  Copper 
Queen  in  Bisbee,  and  the  Gadsden  in  Douglas. 
Also  along  the  main  line  of  the  Santa  Fe  are  the 
admirably  managed,  handsome  Harvey  Hotels  at 
Winslow,  Williams  and  Ash  Fork.  Besides  these 
in  the  state  there  are  three  modern  tourist  hotels 
where  the  visitor  can  find  all  the  modern  comforts 
and  luxuries  in  a  perfect  environment.  The  most 
southerly  of  these  hotels  is  the  San  Marcos  in  the 
suburban  town  of  Chandler,  twenty-three  miles 
southeast  of  Phoenix,  on  the  Arizona  and  Eastern 
Railroad.  The  buildings  are  concrete  and  built  at 
a  cost  of  a  quarter  of  a  million  of  dollars.  The 
main  hotel  building  fronts  a  lawn-carpeted  court, 
where  roses,  honeysuckles  and  other  vines  climb 
pergola  pillars  and  gray  walls.  Adjoining  the 
hotel  on  the  west  is  a  private  park  dotted  with 
concrete  bungalows.  This  park  is  noted  through- 
out the  state  for  the  beauty  of  its  shrubbery  and 
flowers. 


SCENIC  ARIZONA  377 

The  hotel  boasts  that  it  provides  its  guests, 
besides  the  comforts  of  a  perfectly  appointed 
home,  the  pleasant  social  life  and  out-of-door 
sports  of  a  high  class  country  club.  To  this  end, 
in  addition  to  tennis  courts  and  the  like,  it  has  an 
eighteen-hole  grass-fairway  golf  links,  and  as  well 
provides  a  JBne  stable  of  saddle  horses  owned  and 
managed  by  Bill  Huggett,  the  well-known  south- 
western guide. 

The  Castle  Hot  Springs  Hotel  is  in  the  foothills 
of  the  Bradshaw  Mountains,  forty  miles  north  of 
Phoenix,  and  is  reached  by  auto  stage  from  a 
junction  of  the  Santa  Fe,  Prescott  and  Phoenix 
Railroad  twenty-four  miles  away.  The  hotel  in- 
cludes three  separate  buildings  and  a  number  of 
cottages.  On  every  hand  there  are  trees,  tall  palms, 
beautiful  walks  and  drives.  The  pool,  which  has 
a  natural  heat  of  from  115  to  122  degrees,  may  be 
enjoyed  every  day  in  the  year.  Tennis  courts  and 
golf  links  are  also  provided. 

Both  these  hotels  are  closed  in  the  summer. 
The  notable  tourist  hotel  of  the  northern  part  of 
the  state  is  El  Tovar,  built  by  the  Santa  Fe  Rail- 
road on  the  rim  of  the  Grand  Canyon.  Its  base 
is  limestone  rock  with  a  first  story  of  solid  logs. 
Its  architecture  follows  in  admirable  proportion 
the  Swiss  chalet  and  the  Norway  villa.  The  house 
contains  more  than  a  hundred  bedrooms,  with 
outside  porches  and  a  roof  garden,  where  wonder- 
ful views  of  the  canyon  can  be  obtained.  The 
lobby,  finished  like  a  glorified  hunter's  lodge,  is 
beautiful,  comfortable  and  picturesque.    As  is  the 


378  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

case  in  all  Harvey  houses,  the  service  is  excellent. 
The  hotel  is  open  the  j^ear  around.  The  altitude 
here  is  seven  thousand  feet,  v^'^hich  insures  a  splen- 
did summer  climate  but  makes  overcoats  and 
wraps  a  requisite  for  winter.  A  good  garage  and 
amply  equipped  stables  are  maintained  for  the 
benefit  of  the  guests. 

The  Ingleside  Club,  near  Phoenix,  might  almost 
be  classed  as  a  winter  tourist  hotel,  as  a  limited 
number  of  guests  are  accommodated  there  each 
winter.  Consisting  of  a  central  building  and  a 
number  of  cottages,  it  is  situated  in  the  midst  of 
a  beautiful  orange  grove.  North  of  the  building 
lies  the  Arizona  Canal,  beyond  that,  on  the  desert, 
are  golf  links,  and  still  farther  to  the  north,  about 
a  mile  away,  rises  picturesque  Camelback  Moun- 
tain. The  Ingleside  Club  deserves  the  popularity 
it  has  always  had  with  its  patrons. 


Chapter  XXV 
ARIZONA  CITIES  OF  TODAY 


TUCSON 


ELSEWHERE  in  this  volume  we  have  seen 
how  Tucson  was  first  an  Indian  rancheria; 
next,  under  the  care  of  Padre  Garces,  the 
environ  of  the  mission  of  San  Agustin,  and  still 
later  the  walled  presidio  of  the  Spaniards,  when, 
with  its  little  garrison  of  soldiers,  it  was  the  one 
place  that  could  withstand  the  Apaches — the  north- 
ern outpost  of  white  civilization. 

In  the  first  decade  of  the  nineteenth  century, 
Tucson  seems  to  have  attained  the  apex  of  its 
prosperitj^  under  old  Spanish  rule.  At  this  time 
it  might  have  contained  two  or  three  thousand  in- 
habitants, but  by  1851,  under  the  republic,  it  had 
dwindled  to  less  than  five  hundred. 

With  the  Gadsden  Purchase  in  1853,  the  Amer- 
icans began  to  arrive,  United  States  soldiers  re- 
placed the  Mexican  troopers,  and  Tucson  took  on 
a  new  prosperity. 

In  1859  or  '60  the  first  newspaper  of  the  state, 
the  weekly  Arizonian,  including  press,  type,  title 
and  good  will,  was  brought  from  Tubac.  Already 
there  was  a  flour  mill  in  the  town,  and  American 
stores,  saloons  and  shops  followed  steadily. 

379 


380  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

No  one  gives  a  better  description  of  the  Tucson 
of  1869  than  does  Capt.  John  G.  Bourke.  This  is 
what  he  saw  as  he  jBrst  approached  the  ancient 
pueblo : 

"That  fringe  of  emerald  green  in  the  'bottom' 
is  the  barley  land  surrounding  Tucson;  those 
gently  waving  cottonwopds  outline  the  shriveled 
course  of  the  Santa  Cruz ;  those  trees  with  the  dark, 
waxy-green  foliage  are  the  pomegranates  behind 
Juan  Fernandez's  corral.  There  is  the  massive 
wall  of  the  church  of  San  Antonio  now;  we  see 
streets  and  houses,  singly  or  in  clusters,  buried  in 
shade  or  unsheltered  from  the  vertical  glare  of 
the  most  merciless  of  suns.  Here  are  pigs  staked 
out  to  wallow  in  congenial  mire — that  is  one  of 
the  charming  customs  of  the  Spanish  Southwest; 
and  these — ah,  yes,  these  are  dogs,  unchained  and 
running  amuck  after  the  heels  of  the  horses,  an- 
other most  charming  custom  of  the  country. 

"Here  are  'burros'  browsing  upon  tin  cans — 
still  another  institution  of  the  country — and  here 
are  the  hens  and  chickens,  and  the  houses  of 
mud,  of  one  story,  flat,  cheerless  and  monotonous 
were  it  not  for  the  crimson  'rastras'  of  chile  which, 
like  mediaeval  banners,  are  flung  to  the  outer  wall. 
And  women,  young  and  old,  wrapped  up  in  're- 
bosos'  and  'tapalos,'  which  conceal  all  the  coun- 
tenance but  the  left  eye;  and  men  enfolded  in 
cheap  poll-parrotty  blankets  of  cotton,  busy  in 
leaning  against  the  door-posts  and  holding  up  the 
weight  of  'sombreros'  as  large  in  diameter  as  cart 
wheels  and  surrounded  by  snakes  of  silver  bullion, 
weighing  almost  as  much  as  the  wearers. 


AEIZONA  CITIES  OF  TODAY  381 

"The  horses  are  moving  rapidly  down  the  nar- 
row street  without  prick  of  spur.  The  wagons  are 
creaking  merrily,  pulled  by  energetic  mules  whose 
efforts  need  not  the  urging  of  rifle-cracking  whip 
in  the  hands  of  skillful  drivers.  It  is  only  because 
the  drivers  are  glad  to  get  to  Tucson  that  they 
explode  the  long,  deadly  blacksnakes,  with  which 
they  can  cut  a  welt  out  of  the  flank  or  brush  a 
fly  from  the  belly  of  any  animal  in  their  team. 
All  the  men  are  whistling  or  have  broken  out  in 
glad  carol.  Each  heart  is  gay,  for  we  have  at  last 
reached  Tucson,  the  commercial  entrepot  of  Ari- 
zona and  the  remoter  Southwest — Tucson,  the 
Mecca  of  the  dragoon,  the  Naples  of  the  desert, 
which  one  was  to  see  and  die;  Tucson,  whose  alkali 
pits  yielded  water  sweeter  than  Well  of  Zenzen, 
whose  maidens  were  more  charming,  whose 
society  was  more  hospitable,  merchants  more  pro- 
gressive, magazines  better  stocked,  climate  more 
dreamy,  than  any  town  from  Santa  Fe  to  Los 
Angeles;  from  Hermosillo,  in  Sonora,  to  the 
gloomy  chasm  of  the  Grand  Canyon — with  one 
exception  only:  its  great  rival,  the  thoroughly 
American  town  of  Prescott,  in  the  bosom  of  the 
pine  forests,  amid  the  granite  crags  of  the  foothills 
of  the  MogoUon." 

Camp  Lowell  at  that  time  was  located  in  the 
eastern  edge  of  the  town,  and  the  officers  ate  with 
the  leading  citizens  at  the  "Shoo  Fly"  restaurant, 
where  the  captain  said  the  flies  wouldn't  shoo 
worth  a  cent. 

There  were,  of  course,  no  railroads,  pavements 


382  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

there  were  none,  street  lamps  were  unheard  of, 
drainage  was  not  deemed  necessary.  Garbage  was 
conveniently  thrown  in  the  street  and  Bourke  says 
the  age  of  the  garbage  piles  was  distinctly  defined 
by  geological  strata.  "In  the  lowest  portion  of  all 
one  could  often  find  arrow-heads  and  stone  axes, 
indicative  of  a  pre-Columbian  origin;  superim- 
posed conformably  over  these,  as  the  geologists 
used  to  say,  were  skins  of  chile  Colorado,  great 
pieces  of  rusty  spurs,  and  other  reliquiae  of  the 
'Conquistadores,'  while  high  above  all  stray  cards, 
tomato  cans,  beer  bottles  and  similar  evidences  of 
a  higher  and  nobler  civilization  told  just  how  long 
the  Anglo-Saxon  had  called  the  territory  his  own." 

The  gambling  saloons  of  Tucson  of  the  '70s  we 
have  referred  to  elsewhere.  We  may  only  add  that 
in  '69  Bourke  writes  that  whatever  may  be  said 
against  them,  they  were  enterprising;  while  all  the 
other  houses  still  had  earth  treated  with  bullock's 
blood  for  flooring  the  big  saloons  provided  lumber 
for  the  patrons  to  walk  on. 

In  the  late  '60s  or  '70s  the  activities  of  the  com- 
mercial princes  of  Tucson  were  comparable  to 
those  of  the  merchants  of  Venice,  for  to  bring  in 
goods  in  guarded  mule  trains  from  Guaymas,  San 
Diego  or  Santa  Fe  was  as  formidable  a  task  as  for 
the  Venetian  to  import  his  merchandise  from 
Cipango  or  the  islands  of  the  Indies. 

Instead  of  baseball  the  Spanish  element  at 
least  had  chicken  fights,  for  "movies"  they  had 
theatricals  from  Mexico,  but  the  one  great  social 
function  was  the  baile.     Again  to  quote  Bourke, 


ARIZONA  CITIES  OF  TODAY  383 

who  had  been  there :  "The  ballroom  was  one  long 
apartment,  with  earthen  floor,  having  around  its 
sides  low  benches,  and  upon  its  walls  a  few  cheap 
mirrors  and  half  a  dozen  candles  stuck  to  the 
adobe  by  melted  tallow,  a  bit  of  moist  clay,  or  else 
held  in  tin  sconces,  from  which  they  emitted  the 
sickliest  light  upon  the  heads  and  forms  of  the 
highly  colored  saints  whose  pictures  were  to  be 
seen  in  the  most  eligible  places. 

"After  the  'baile'  was  over,  the  rule  was  for  the 
younger  participants  to  take  the  music  and  march 
along  the  streets  to  the  houses  of  the  young  ladies 
who  had  been  prevented  from  attending,  and 
there,  under  the  window,  or  rather  in  front  of  the 
window — because  all  the  houses  were  of  one  story, 
and  a  man  could  not  get  under  the  windows  unless 
he  crawled  on  hands  and  knees — pour  forth  their 
souls  in  a  serenade."  "La  Paloma"  was  always 
sung,  so  was  "La  Golondrina."  Here  is  one  song 
that  Bourke  quotes,  guitar  accompaniment  and  all : 

"No  me  mires  con  esos  tus  ojos, 
(Fluke-fluky-fluke ;  plink,  planky-plink) 
Mas  hermosos  que  el  sol  en  el  cielo, 
(Plinky-plinky;  plinky-plinky) 
Que  me  miras  de  dicha  y  consuelo, 
(Fluky,  fluky-fluke;  plink-plink) 
Que  me  mata!  que  me  mata!  tu  mirar. 
(Plinky-plink,   fluky-fluke;   plinky-plink;   fluke- 
fluke.)" 

The  houses  of  these  pleasant  early  Spanish 
families  were  of  adobe,  but  the  courtesy  of  the 
host  made  them  palaces,  and  the  senorita's  dress 


384  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

of  cotton  was  transformed  to  satin  and  lace  by 
the  air  of  the  wearer,  the  rose  in  her  hair  and  by 
the  smile  on  her  lips. 

"  'Ah !  happy  the  eyes  that  gaze  upon  thee'  was 
the  form  of  salutation  to  friends  who  had  been 
absent  for  a  space — 'Dichosos  los  ojos  que  ven 
a  V,'  'Go  thou  with  God,'  was  the  gentle  mode  of 
saying  farewell,  to  which  the  American  guest 
would  respond,  as  he  shifted  the  revolvers  on  his 
hip  and  adjusted  the  quid  of  tobacco  in  his  mouth: 
'Wa-al,  I  reckon  I'll  git.' " 

The  town's  weekly  newspaper.  The  Arizonian, 
seems  to  have  lasted  until  a  short  time  after  the 
establishment  of  the  Citizen,  October  15,  1870,  by 
John  Wasson.  Wasson,  according  to  Bourke,  was 
an  energetic  individual  who  was  a  perpetual  won- 
der to  the  easy-going  Mexicans.  He  published 
editorials  favoring  the  establishment  of  schools! 
He  wanted  the  streets  lighted  at  night;  he  even 
objected  to  a  dead  burro  that  had  lain  only  for 
a  day  or  two  on  the  main  street. 

Valgame!  What  was  the  matter  with  the  man? 
It  would  be  removed  in  a  week  any  way  without 
all  of  this  fuss.  These  Americanos!  Always  in  a 
hurry  as  though  the  Devil  were  after  them. 

In  March,  1877,  Tucson — and  Arizona — had  its 
first  daily  paper  in  the  Bulletin,  four  columns  to 
the  page,  and  had  real  telegraphic  news — when 
the  Government  line  to  San  Diego  wasn't  down. 

After  a  few  months  of  struggle  the  Bulletin 
died  a  natural  death  and  was  followed  by  the  tri- 
weekly Star,   edited  by  Louis   C.   Hughes,   after- 


ARIZONA  CITIES  OF  TODAY  385 

wards  governor  of  Arizona.  The  Star  later  was 
changed  to  a  daily,  and  is  still  one  of  Tucson's 
leading  papers,  the  evening  daily  being  the 
Citizen. 

Tucson  was  incorporated  in  1872,  with  officers 
as  follows:  Mayor,  Sidney  R.  DeLong;  Alder- 
men, W.  S.  Oury,  W.  W.  Williams,  Samuel  Hughes 
and  Charles  O.  Brown. 

The  main  thoroughfare  of  the  town — Congress 
Street — was  named  after  Brown's  famous  gam- 
bling saloon,  Congress  Hall.  A  number  of  streets 
were  named  after  pioneers  who  had  been  killed 
by  Apaches. 

Never  did  Tucson  give  itself  over  to  rejoicing 
more  than  it  did  on  March  17,  1880,  the  day  when 
the  Southern  Pacific,  building  from  the  west, 
reached  the  city.  When  the  train  pulled  in  every- 
body and  his  dog  was  waiting  to  receive  it,  to  say 
nothing  of  the  Sixth  Cavalry  band  from  Fort 
Lowell,  which  blew  itself  purple  in  the  face  with 
enthusiasm. 

The  address  of  welcome  was  made  by  the  old 
pioneer.  Col.  W.  S.  Our}%  and  a  silver  spike  from 
the  Tough  Nut  mine  was  presented  to  President 
Crocker  by  Don  Estavan  Ochoa,  one  of  Tucson's 
most  distinguished  citizens. 

Tucson's  second  railroad  was  the  Southern 
Pacific  branch  to  Nogales.  The  celebration  was 
held  May  5,  1910,  a  holiday  to  the  Mexicans,  in 
honor  of  the  day,  in  1862,  when  General  Zaragosa 
defeated  the  French  at  Puebla.  They  had  a  great 
time.    Governor  Sloan  of  Arizona,  Governor  Tor- 


386  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

res  of  Sonora,  and  Governor  Redo  of  Sinaloa  were 
all  guests  of  honor.  There  was  a  banquet,  of 
course,  and  much  speaking,  and  as  the  country 
editor  says,  "A  good  time  was  enjoyed  by  all." 

The  El  Paso  and  Southwestern  reached  Tucson 
in  November,  1912.  By  that  time  the  coming  of  a 
railroad  had  grown  to  mean  a  holiday  as  much  as 
did  the  Fourth  of  July,  and  everybody  celebrated 
again. 

Tucson  is  now  a  real  city.  It  claims  to  be  the 
metropolis  of  the  state;  so  does  Phoenix,  but  as 
Admiral  Schley  once  aptly  said,  "There  are  honors 
enough  for  all."  Certainly  the  old  Pueblo  has 
acquired  a  decidedly  metropolitan  style.  She  has 
paved  her  streets,  erected  handsome  building 
structures,  churches,  schools,  club  houses,  theaters, 
a  fine  public  library  and  a  hundred  thousand 
dollar  Y.  M.  C.  A.  In  addition  to  all  this  there  is 
the  University  of  Arizona,  with  its  really  splendid 
buildings  and  beautiful  campus,  which  the  city 
tosses  into  the  credit  side  of  its  balances  just  for 
good  measure. 

The  last  time  we  were  in  Tucson  we  looked 
for  traces  of  the  ancient  Spanish  town,  but  they 
are  about  all  gone.  Its  residence  streets,  lined 
with  comfortable  looking  bungalows,  might  be  a 
part  of  Los  Angeles;  its  best  dwellings  would  be 
notable  anywhere. 

PHOENIX 

The  first  settlement  in  the  Salt  River  Valley 
was  gathered  about  a  flour  mill  built  by  W.  D. 


ARIZONA  CITIES  OF  TODAY  387 

Hellings,  the  ruins  of  which  may  still  be  seen  near 
Phoenix,  just  east  of  the  State  Hospital  for  the 
Insane.  The  machinery  for  the  mill,  upon  which 
construction  was  started  in  1869,  was  brought  in 
on  freight  wagons  from  California.  This  settle- 
ment was  first  called  Mill  City,  later  East  Phoenix. 

Being  on  a  stage  road  leading  to  both  Wicken- 
burg  and  Fort  McDowell,  settlers  used  to  meet  at 
the  stage  station  and  talk  of  the  latest  Apache 
depredation,  of  the  exorbitant  charges  levied  by 
the  stage  company,  and  how  they  wished  some- 
body would  start  an  ice  plant  so  they  could  get 
some  decent  beer. 

The  saloon  that  may  have  induced  the  latter 
remarks  was  kept  by  Major  McKinney,  and  close 
to  that  was  a  store  conducted  by  Captain  Han- 
cock. 

On  October  20,  1870,  feeling  in  their  bones  that 
a  great  city  should  be  started  in  their  neighbor- 
hood, the  citizens  met  at  the  residence  of  a  Mr. 
Moore  and  appointed  a  committee  to  select  a  site. 

"Lord"  Darrell  Duppa,  Moore  and  M.  P.  Griffin 
were  the  committee,  and  upon  the  site  they  recom- 
mended has  been  built  the  present  city  of  Phoenix. 
The  name  was  suggested  by  Duppa,  who  proph- 
esied that  here  a  flourishing  civilization  would 
spring  up  from  the  ashes  of  the  departed  aborig- 
ines. 

"Lord"  Darrell  also  named  Tempe.  Indeed, 
the  people  had  a  habit  of  calling  on  Duppa  for 
most  anything  that  demanded  taste  and  erudition, 
for  Duppa  was  a  graduate  of  one  of  the  English 


388  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

universities,  speaking  French,  Spanish  and  Italian 
and  quoting  Latin  and  Greek.  Also,  in  spite  of 
bibulous  habits  and  shabby  clothes,  he  was  cred- 
ited with  belonging  to  one  of  the  great  houses  of 
England.  Certainly  he  could  spend  money  like  a 
lord  for  the  few  days  it  took  him  to  exhaust  the 
check  he  used  to  receive  regularly  from  London 
bankers.  During  the  lean  days  that  intervened 
until  next  check  day  his  friends  gladly  provided 
food  and  drink  in  exchange  for  his  company,  for 
he  was  the  beloved  vagabond  of  early  Phoenix. 
His  acquaintances  ever  condoned  his  faults  and 
even  forgave  him  for  writing  poetry. 

The  new  town  was  surveyed  and  mapped  by 
Captain  Hancock,  and  in  the  latter  part  of  1870 
people  showed  their  faith  in  Duppa's  prophecy  by 
beginning  to  buy  lots.  The  first  one  sold  was  on 
the  southwest  corner  of  Washington  and  First 
Street,  and  was  bought  by  Judge  Berry,  of  Pres- 
cott,  for  $104.  The  first  house  to  be  completed 
was  a  small  adobe  building  on  Washington,  be- 
tween Center  and  First  Street,  which  was  then 
known  as  Montezuma  Street.  Small  as  the  house 
was  it  served  not  only  as  the  office  of  the  local 
justice  of  the  peace,  the  probate  judge,  the  treas- 
urer, the  recorder  and  the  sheriff,  but  as  a  court 
room  as  well.    Those  were  simple  and  easy  times. 

One  establishment  of  undeniable  importance  to 
the  pioneers  was  Mike's  brewery,  located  on  Wash- 
ington Street,  between  First  and  Second. 

In  the  spring  of  1871  the  county  offices  were 
moved  to  a  small  building  constructed  especially 


ARIZONA  CITIES  OF  TODAY  389 

for  them  on  South  First  Avenue,  between  Wash- 
ington and  Jefferson,  where  in  September,  1872, 
the  first  school  was  held.  The  teacher  was  J.  D. 
Daroche.  Phoenix's  second  school  building  was 
located  on  North  Central  Avenue,  in  the  present 
Central  School  block.  Lumber  for  the  floor  was 
furnished  by  John  Y.  T.  Smith,  the  first  resident 
of  the  valley,  who  soon  afterwards  married  the 
schoolmistress,  Miss  Nellie  Shaver. 

Phoenix's  first  postmaster  was  George  E. 
Mowry. 

The  town  was  incorporated  February  25, 
1881,  with  John  T.  Alsap,  mayor,  and  J.  H.  Burtis, 
T.  W.  Brown,  J.  M.  Cotton  and  W.  T.  Smith,  coun- 
cilmen. 

Although  most  of  the  residences,  as  well  as 
many  of  the  business  houses,  of  Phoenix  in  the 
'80s  were  of  adobe,  it  was  really  an  attractive 
place.  All  the  residence  streets  were  lined  with 
Cottonwood  trees,  under  which  ran  tiny  irrigation 
ditches.  There  were  not  many  lawns,  but  yards 
were  filled  with  flowers,  vines  and  fruit  trees. 

Where  the  city  hall  now  is  was  a  grove  of  cot- 
tonwoods,  in  whose  shade  in  July  an  Indian  or  so 
could  usually  be  seen  burying  his  face  in  a  water- 
melon— for  no  Georgia  darkey  ever  had  a  finer 
appreciation  of  watermelon  than  the  Redman. 

Arizona  has  had  many  public  benefactors. 
There  were  Generals  Crook  and  Miles,  who  tamed 
the  savage  natives;  there  was  Frederick  H.  Newell, 
who  made  the  Roosevelt  Dam  possible;  but  the 
greatest  of  them  all  in  a  land  where,  in  summer, 


390  THE  StORY  OF  ARIZONA 

the  mercury  soars  like  prices  in  war  time,  was 
Samuel  D.  Lount,  who  in  '79  or  '80  started  an  ice 
factory  in  Phoenix,  and  to  the  consternation  of 
the  Indians  and  the  amazement  of  the  "Hassay- 
amper,"  made  perfectly  clear,  cold  ice  in  July.  It 
is  a  wonder  Phoenix  hasn't  given  him  a  statue. 

In  this  connection  it  may  be  of  interest  to  men- 
tion the  means  of  refrigeration  that  existed  in 
Arizona  in  an  earlier  day.  To  cool  drinking  water 
there  was  the  olla,  or  Indian  water  jar.  It  was 
made  of  clay  and,  baked  without  a  glaze,  was  quite 
porous.  After  being  covered  with  several  layers 
of  gunny  sacking  or  other  porous  cloth,  it  would 
be  hung  in  the  shade,  where  the  breeze,  striking 
the  wet  and  dripping  side  surfaces,  would  keep 
the  water  cool  even  on  the  hottest  days.  A  desert 
refrigerator  was  sometimes  made  by  utilizing  the 
same  principle.  A  frame  with  shelves  would  be 
covered  with  coarse  cloth  and  water  from  a  supply 
above  would  be  made  to  trickle  down  just  fast 
enough  to  keep  the  cloth  thoroughly  wet.  Inside 
milk  would  keep  cool  and  sweet  when  outside  the 
thermometer  stood  at  one  hundred. 

The  greatest  criticism  that  could  be  made 
against  the  physical  aspect  of  early  Phoenix  was 
that  the  sidewalks,  except  on  Washington  Street, 
in  front  of  the  saloons,  and  a  few  other  large  busi- 
ness houses,  were  of  native  earth.  This  was  all 
right  during  the  325  or  so  days  when  it  didn't  rain, 
but  when  it  did — ! 

Well,  we  had  a  friend  who  was  most  attentive 
to  a  young  lady.  The  lady  was  to  sing  at  a  "party" 


AKIZONA  CITIES  OF  TODAY  391 

given  by  a  local  "society  leader."  The  evening  of 
the  party  it  rained,  and  the  sidewalks  of  the  town 
were  one  continuous  gooey,  glutinous  mass.  A 
"hack"  had  recently  been  purchased  by  an  enter- 
prising liveryman  and  our  friend  took  his  lady 
to  the  party  therein.  So  far  everything  was  as 
lovely  as  the  young  lady's  smile,  or  the  young 
lady's  gown. 

The  hack  stopped  in  front  of  the  social  leader's 
house.  There  was  no  strip  of  red  carpet  running 
from  the  door  to  the  curb.  There  was,  however, 
a  narrow  path  flanked  by  seas  of  mud.  Between 
the  hack  and  the  path  ran  a  small,  tricky,  irriga- 
tion ditch;  in  fair  weather  a  delight  to  the  eye — 
now  no  less  than  an  insult.  Young  Lochinvar 
planted  a  foot  on  each  side  of  the  ditch,  and  held 
out  a  pair  of  muscular  arms  to  the  young  lady. 

"I'll  lift  you  right  over,"  he  said  pleasantly. 
The  confidence  he  placed  in  his  strong  arms  was 
not  misplaced.  He  lifted!  But,  alas,  his  treach- 
erous legs  were  standing  in  still  more  treacherous 
mud.  His  right  foot  started  sliding  north,  the  left 
one  slid  to  the  south.  What  happened  to  the  young 
lady?  Will  the  gentle  reader  kindly  join  the  rain 
clouds  in  their  weeping!  The  young  man,  di- 
rected by  circumstances  whollj"  beyond  his  control, 
laid  the  young  lady  gentl3'^  downward,  flat  on  her 
back,  in  the  muddy  water  of  the  ditch. 

Later  that  evening  she  sang,  draped  elegantly 
in  a  lace  window  curtain,  but  the  coldness  between 
the  young  man  and  the  young  woman,  induced  bj^ 
the  dampness,  never  thawed. 


392  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Ever  since  1887  Phoenix  has  had  street  rail- 
ways. The  first  cars  were  drawn  by  mules,  and  if 
a  housewife  on  Grand  Avenue  had  company  for 
dinner,  the  driver  was  ever  ready  to  stop  at  Ed 
Eisle's  bakery  and  get  a  loaf  of  bread  or  a  dozen 
rolls  for  her. 

The  first  newspaper  to  be  published  in  Phoenix 
was  the  weekly  Salt  River  Valley  Herald,  with 
Charles  E.  McClintock  as  editor.  In  1879  the  paper 
was  changed  to  a  semi-weekly,  and  soon  after  that 
to  a  daily.  After  McClintock's  death,  in  1881,  N.  A. 
Morford,  who  later  was  Arizona's  secretary,  owned 
and  managed  the  paper  until  it  was  merged  with 
the  Republican  in  1899. 

The  Arizona  Gazette  was  started  as  a  daily, 
Mondays  excepted,  in  1880,  by  H.  H.  and  Charles 
C.  McNeal,  with  W.  O.  O'Neill  as  editor.  For  many 
years  after  1887  the  paper  was  edited  by  John  C. 
Dunbar,  who,  when  writing  editorials  against  po- 
litical enemies,  it  is  said,  used  to  fill  his  ink  well 
with  vitriol  and  heat  his  pen  red  hot.  As  a  demo- 
cratic evening  paper  it  is  now  owned  by  H.  A. 
Tritle,  son  of  ex-Governor  Tritle,  and  Charles 
Akers,  formerly  secretary  of  the  territory.  It  has 
Associated  Press  leased  wire  service. 

The  Arizona  Republican  began  its  career  May 
19,  1890,  with  Ed  Gill  as  manager  and  Charles  O. 
Zieganfuss,  editor.  After  passing  through  several 
hands  it  was  acquired  by  its  present  owners, 
Dwight  B.  Heard,  one  of  Arizona's  most  prominent 
men,  and  his  associates.  It  is  progressive  repub- 
lican in  politics,  and,  like  the  Gazette,  has  Asso- 


ARIZONA  CITIES  OF  TODAY  393 

ciated  Press  leased  wire  service.  Through  many 
of  its  years  its  editor-in-chief  has  been  J.  W.  Spear, 
one  of  the  ablest  newspaper  men  of  the  Southwest. 
Several  years  ago  Charles  A.  Stauff  er,  its  energetic 
manager,  did  a  most  notable  and  commendable 
thing  in  deleting  from  the  paper's  columns  all  ad- 
vertisements of  patent  medicines. 

Phoenix  has  seen  the  rise  and  fall  of  many  an 
ably  edited  and  well  printed  magazine,  including 
the  Graphic  and  The  Call  of  the  Desert,  but  which 
were  unable  to  receive  financial  support  to  long 
keep  them  going.  The  state's  present  magazine, 
The  Arizona,  has  survived  eight  volumes  and  four 
numbers,  under  the  able  editorship  of  C.  S.  Scott, 
who  has  served  on  the  staff  of  both  the  Herald  and 
the  Republican,  and  has  been  a  decided  asset  to 
the  commonwealth.  The  magazine  devotes  itself 
exclusively  to  things  pertaining  to  the  Southwest. 

The  first  railroad  to  reach  Phoenix  was  the 
Maricopa  and  Phoenix,  whose  name  indicates  its 
termini.  It  w^as  completed  in  1887,  and  when  the 
engine  came  puffing  and  perspiring  into  Phoenix 
on  a  hot  Fourth  of  July  morning  the  town,  in  spite 
of  the  altitude  of  the  mercury,  had  quite  a  cele- 
bration. The  road  is  now  a  part  of  the  Arizona 
Eastern  system. 

The  Santa  Fe,  Prescott  &  Phoenix,  building 
down  from  Ash  Fork,  arrived  in  Phoenix  in  March, 
1895.  There  was  a  complication  about  the  road's 
right  of  way  into  the  town,  but  one  morning  in  the 
gray  of  early  dawn  the  trackmen  laid  the  ties  and 
rails  from  the  city's  edge  down  to  the  center  of 


394  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

population  and  had  a  train  in  before  anybody  was 
awake  enough  to  object.  Whatever  the  complica- 
tion was,  it  was  soon  forgotten,  and  the  city  had  a 
regular  Tucson  flood  of  oratory  in  welcoming  it. 
Tom  Fitch,  Arizona's  silver-tongued  orator,  who 
had  helped  to  orate  the  Southern  Pacific  into 
Tucson,  again  burst  forth  into  eloquence  before 
an  enthusiastic  audience  of  Arizonans,  who  were 
ever  ready  to  welcome  a  railroad  into  its  midst 
and  abuse  it  roundly  when  once  it  had  got  it  there. 

The  modern  city  of  Phoenix  may  be  said  to 
have  had  its  beginnings  when,  on  April  7,  1914,  it 
adopted  a  commission  form  of  government.  W.  A. 
Parish,  a  very  capable  civil  engineer,  was  the  first 
city  manager.  Phoenix  now  has  many  miles  of 
paved  streets,  and  its  public  buildings,  including 
the  state  capitol,  the  Federal  building,  the  Public 
Library,  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  the  Water  Users'  building 
and  many  handsome  churches,  would  be  a  credit 
to  any  metropolis. 

In  a  state  noted  for  its  excellent  school  build- 
ings those  of  Phoenix  are  especially  conspicuous. 
Over  a  million  dollars  has  been  spent  to  provide 
accommodations  for  its  four  thousand  scholars. 

A  genial  climate,  which  permits  the  growth  of 
date  and  fan  palms,  of  eucalyptus  and  peppers, 
many  semi-tropical  shrubs  and  plants,  which  keeps 
flowers  blooming  the  winter  through,  gives  wide 
latitude  to  local  landscape  gardeners.  In  conse- 
quence the  city's  many  beautiful  dwellings  are  en- 
hanced by  the  wealth  of  greenery  that  surrounds 
them,  making  them  a  perpetual  delight  to  the  eye. 


ARIZONA  CITIES  OF  TODAY  395 

PRESCOTT 

Modern  Prescott  is  a  long  cry  from  the  town  of 
the  pioneer  days,  of  the  log  cabin  and  the  flimsy 
shack  when  court  was  held  at  Fort  Misery  and 
fried  venison  was  served  with  chile  at  the  Juniper 
House.  It  is  also  a  long  cry  from  Mrs.  Stephen's 
one-room  school  of  sixty-five  to  the  grammar  and 
high  school  that  now  adorn  Gurley  Street  and  give 
prestige  to  the  city. 

However  disastrous  it  may  have  been  to  indi- 
viduals, perhaps  the  greatest  good  fortune  that 
ever  visited  Prescott  was  the  fire  of  July  14,  1900, 
that  practically  demolished  the  business  section  of 
the  town  surrounding  the  courthouse  plaza,  for 
from  its  ashes  were  built  the  modern  business 
blocks  that  set  the  metropolitan  stamp  on  the  new 
city.  The  fire  happened  before  the  end  of  the 
gambling  days,  and  while  the  ruins  still  smoked, 
the  saloons  of  Whisky  Row  moved  to  the  plaza, 
where  a  barber  shop  had  been  installed  in  the 
band  stand,  and  here  they  established  their  faro 
layouts  and  roulette  wheels  under  the  blue  sky. 
The  loss  occasioned  by  the  fire  ran  above  a  million 
dollars. 

The  Prescott  of  today  is  in  manj'^  respects  a 
model  little  city.  Its  new  courthouse,  built  of 
native  granite,  is  handsome  in  design  and  splen- 
didly constructed.  Its  banks  have  heavy  deposit 
lists  and  occupy  handsome  buildings.  Its  business 
houses  are  second  to  none  in  the  state,  and  the 
residence  portion  of  the  city  is  in  every  way  worthy 


396  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

of  the  business  center.  Prescott  is  situated  in  a 
beautiful  basin  in  the  mountains,  through  which 
runs  Granite  Creek.  On  three  sides  mountain 
peaks,  covered  with  pine,  juniper  and  oak,  rise 
high  against  the  sky.  The  altitude  of  the  town, 
about  a  mile  above  sea  level,  gives  a  climate  that  is 
never  hot  in  summer,  and  at  the  same  time  has  a 
winter  just  cold  enough  to  be  bracing. 

In  the  Journal  Miner,  Prescott  has  a  progres- 
sive, well-edited  daily. 

BISBEE 

In  Bisbee  people  live,  move  and  have  their 
being  in  terms  of  copper,  which  is  as  it  should  be, 
for  Bisbee  is  the  home  of  the  Copper  Queen,  the 
Calumet  and  Arizona,  and  other  copper  mines  that 
have  helped  to  make  the  name  of  Arizona  known 
throughout  the  world. 

Aside  from  the  buildings  themselves  most  cities 
have  only  two  dimensions,  length  and  breadth. 
Bisbee  adds  a  third,  up  and  down.  It  is  situated  in 
a  steep  canyon  which,  before  the  white  man  came, 
was  covered  with  oaks  and  vines.  Then  Jack 
Dunn  discovered  a  copper  mine,  and  as  a  shaft 
can  not  be  easily  moved,  even  to  make  a  conven- 
ient site  for  a  town,  in  1880  the  oak  trees  and  the 
vines  were  pulled  down,  brick  and  mortar  took 
their  places,  and  Tombstone  Canyon,  in  the  Mule 
Pass  Mountains,  became  Bisbee. 

Yet,  after  all,  we  doubt  if  the  citizens  of  the 
town  would  have  its  natural  conditions  different. 


ARIZONA  CITIES  OF  TODAY  397 

It  makes  for  picturesqueness,  those  terraces  up  the 
steep  slopes,  and  if  one  upon  looking  from  his 
door  yard  can  see  nicely  over  the  roof  of  his  near- 
est neighbor,  certainly  there  is  nothing  common- 
place about  it.  At  the  bottom  of  the  canyon  is  Main 
Street,  the  one  continuous  thoroughfare  of  the 
town,  which,  following  the  contour  of  the  canj'on, 
is  almost  as  crooked  as  a  snake  with  the  colic.  No 
one  should  object  to  that,  however,  for  we  all 
know  that  a  curved  line  is  more  beautiful  than  a 
straight  one. 

One  must  not  hastily  conclude  that  because 
Bisbee  is  a  mining  camp  that  there  is  any  atmos- 
phere of  instability  about  the  town.  Copper  mines 
grow  richer  as  they  go  down,  and  Bisbee  people 
say  that  the  town  will  be  there  till  the  Copper 
Queen  and  the  C.  &  A.  strike  China. 

And  speaking  of  China,  one  of  the  unique  tra- 
ditions of  Bisbee  is  that  no  member  of  the  celestial 
kingdom  may  remain  in  town  over  night.  Many 
of  the  early  miners  had  lived  in  Nevada  and  Cali- 
fornia mining  districts,  where  there  had  been  anti- 
Chinese  feeling,  and  they  brought  their  prejudices 
with  them.    The  rule  is  still  supposed  to  prevail. 

The  year  1908  was  an  unfortunate  one  for  the 
town.  In  the  summer  a  tremendous  flood  carried 
thousands  of  tons  of  earth  from  the  western  hill- 
side, spilling  it  into  the  buildings  at  the  bottom  of 
the  canyon.  In  the  fall  a  half  million  dollar  fire 
destroyed  a  portion  of  the  business  district,  but  as 
was  the  case  with  Prescott,  the  new  buildings  were 
better  than  the  old.    In  fact,  during  the  last  dozen 


398  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

years  all  of  the  leading  cities  of  the  state  have 
acquired  the  kind  of  business  houses  that  in  the 
East  one  would  scarcely  find  in  cities  of  under  fifty 
thousand  inhabitants.  Bisbee's  standard  in  public 
buildings  and  business  houses  is  high.  It  has  a 
department  store  that  is  perhaps  the  finest  estab- 
lishment of  its  kind  in  the  state.  There  are  also 
the  usual  good  schools  and  well-built  churches. 
The  Catholics  are  now  erecting  a  church  building 
that  will  cost  in  the  neighborhood  of  $75,000.  And 
while  we  are  talking  in  figures  we  might  add  that 
Bisbee  put  $90,000  into  its  high  school.  Lowell, 
Warren  and  Don  Luis  are  the  principal  suburbs  of 
Bisbee.  At  Lowell  is  the  "Junction"  shaft  of  the  "C. 
&  A."  Also  located  here  are  a  bank  and  theater  and 
several  club  houses. 

Warren  is  the  residential  town  of  the  district, 
and  boasts  of  land  that  is  either  level  or  having 
a  slope  that  may  be  termed  "gentle"  with  resi- 
dences surrounded  by  lawns,  shrubberj^  and  flow- 
ers. Just  below  Warren  is  the  Country  Club,  the 
center  of  the  social  life  of  the  district.  Here  are 
found  golf  links,  tennis  courts  and  a  rifle  range. 

Bisbee  has  three  daily  newspapers,  the  Review, 
the  Ore  and  the  Square  Dealer. 

DOUGLAS 

Douglas,  the  fourth  city  in  size  in  the  state,  had 
its  beginning  in  1901,  and  in  the  seventeen  years 
since  then  has  accumulated  a  population  estimated 
at  ten  thousand.    It  is  entered  by  three  railroads, 


ARIZONA  CITIES  OF  TODAY  399 

and  is  the  home  of  the  great  copper  smelters  of  the 
Copper  Queen  and  the  Calumet  and  Arizona.  The 
smelters  and  the  railroads  have  a  combined  pay- 
roll of  about  $400,000  a  month. 

Built  just  north  of  the  international  line,  to  the 
south  of  the  city  lies  Mexico,  and  on  account  of  its 
location,  Douglas  is  already  one  of  the  important 
gateways  between  the  two  republics. 

In  common  with  Arizona's  other  leading  cities, 
Douglas  has  paved  streets,  trolley  cars,  a  fine  hotel 
and  substantial  business  blocks  and  dwellings.  Its 
banks  are  full  of  money  and  its  people  are  pros- 
perous. Almost  any  of  its  citizens  will  admit,  if 
pressed  hard  enough,  that  Douglas  is  destined  to 
become  one  of  the  great  cities  of  the  Southwest. 

The  city  has  two  dailj^  newspapers,  The  Inter- 
national and  The  Dispatch. 

OTHER  CITIES 

The  more  important  mining  towns  of  the  state 
not  already  mentioned  individually  include  Globe, 
with  about  7,000  people;  Miami,  4,000;  Chfton, 
6,000;  Morenci,  4,000;  Metcalf,  3,000;  Jerome,  2,500, 
and  Clarkdale  with  about  1,000.  The  mining  com- 
panies operating  in  these  towns  follow  the  most 
modern  methods,  and  their  smelters  are  among 
the  best  in  the  world. 

Globe  had  its  beginning  in  1876,  and  its  early 
days  were  enlivened  by  a  Wnching  where  two  men, 
John  Hawley  and  Lafayette  Grime,  were  hanged 
on  a  big  sycamore  tree,  conveniently  located  on 


400  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

the  main  street.  The  present  town,  like  the  others 
mentioned,  has  lost  much  of  its  pioneer  aspect, 
and,  like  them,  has  many  well-conducted  and 
well-housed  business  enterprises.  Besides  being 
reached  by  the  Arizona  Eastern  Railroad  from 
Bowie,  Globe  is  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  scenic 
Apache  Trail,  an  automobile  highway  running  to 
Mesa  and  Phoenix.  Its  daily  newspapers  are  the 
Arizona  Record  and  the  Globe  Record. 

Clifton,  Morenci  and  Metcalf,  in  Greenlee 
County,  are  all  close  together  and  are  connected 
by  railroads.  Clifton  is  the  terminus  of  the  Ari- 
zona and  New  Mexico  Railroad,  connecting  with 
the  Southern  Pacific  at  Lordsberg,  N.  M. 

Jerome,  situated  on  a  steep  hill  near  the  upper 
Verde,  is  the  home  of  Senator  Clark's  rich  copper 
mine,  The  United  Verde,  and  is  connected  with  the 
Santa  Fe,  Prescott  &  Phoenix  by  a  private  road. 
It  also  has  a  new  road  to  Clarkdale  in  the  Verde 
Valley,  where  it  smelts  its  ore. 

Kingman  is  the  supply  point  on  the  Santa  Fe 
for  Chloride  and  other  important  mining  towns  in 
Mojave  County. 

Nogales  is  an  important  Mexican  border  town, 
being  the  northern  terminus  of  the  Southern  Pa- 
cific de  Mejico,  running  through  Sonora  and 
Sinaloa  and  tapping  rich  grazing,  mining  and  agri- 
cultural country.  The  future  of  the  town  is  un- 
doubtedly rich  with  promise. 

Yuma's  day  is  at  hand.  For  years  the  town  has 
been  associated  only  with  slanderous  tales  con- 
cerning the  behavior  of  its  thermometers  in  July 


ARIZONA  CITIES  OF  TODAY  401 

and  August.  Now  with  the  completion  of  the 
Laguna  irrigation  system  it  glories  in  its  hot  sum- 
mer days  as  much  as  it  does  in  the  balmy  ones  of 
winter.  It  is  hot  sunshine  that  makes  Yuma  cotton 
so  good,  that  gives  its  farmers  six  crops  of  alfalfa 
a  year,  so  Yuma's  four  thousand  people  with  one 
voice  say,  "Let  the  sun  shine." 

Flagstaff,  on  the  Santa  Fe,  at  an  altitude  of 
7,000  feet  and  surrounded  by  pines,  specializes  in 
cool  summer  days.  Also,  quite  aside  from  its  cli- 
matic excellence,  it  is  the  center  of  a  very  rich 
grazing  countr^^  and  the  beauty  of  the  town,  with 
the  San  Francisco  peaks,  snow-capped  for  much 
of  the  year,  is  undeniable.  It  is  the  home  of  one 
of  the  state's  two  normal  schools,  and  of  the  fa- 
mous Lowell  Obser\^atory. 

Florence,  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  state, 
is  waiting  for  the  day  when  the  San  Carlos  dam 
will  be  built,  when  with  plenty  of  water  for  the 
irrigating  canals  in  the  district,  Florence  will  fol- 
low in  the  foosteps  of  Phoenix  and  Yuma.  How- 
ever, the  farmers  are  raising  some  crops  even  now. 
It  is  a  patriotic  community — no  doubt  about  that. 
In  the  spring  of  1918,  when  there  wasn't  enough 
water  for  both  the  alfalfa  men  and  the  wheat 
raisers,  the  owners  of  the  alfalfa  fields  let  the  grain 
farmers  have  enough  of  their  water  to  mature 
their  crops  and  help  out  Hoover. 

Mesa,  Tempe  and  Chandler  are  all  suburban, 
agricultural  towns  in  the  Salt  River  Valley,  sur- 
rounded on  all  sides  by  cotton,  alfalfa  and  opulent 
farmers.     Chandler,  besides  its  tourist  hotel,  has 


402  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

the  finest  golf  links  in  the  Southwest,  covered 
thick  with  a  grass  sod,  which  in  these  war  times 
gives  nourishment  to  a  large  flock  of  sheep,  in  ad- 
dition to  recreation  and  recuperation  to  winter 
visitors. 


Chapter  XXVI 

ARIZONA'S  PART  IN  THE  WORLD'S 

WAR 

THE  people  of  Arizona  may  well  be  proud  of 
their  state's  record  in  the  World's  War. 
Not  only  has  its  achievements,  according  to 
the  percentage  of  its  population  in  comparison 
with  other  states,  in  Liberty  loan  subscriptions,  in 
Y.  M.  C.  A.  donations  and  in  Red  Cross  work,  been 
conspicuous  in  the  nation,  but  in  addition  it  has 
contributed  the  largest  percentage  of  soldiers  and 
sailors  to  the  war,  per  capita  of  male  citizens,  of 
any  state  in  the  Union. 

The  population  of  Arizona,  according  to  the 
census  of  1910,  was  204,354;  its  population  for 
1917,  as  estimated  by  the  Census  Bureau,  was 
263,788.  Deducting  from  that  105,551  Indians  and 
aliens  (mostly  Mexicans),  leaves  a  remainder  of 
158,237.  Arizona's  draft  was  on  a  supposed  popu- 
lation— estimated  in  the  provost  marshal  general's 
office— of  409,230. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  war  the  Arizona  Na- 
tional Guard  contributed  over  1,000  men  to  the 
army,  but  when  a  new  oath  was  required  of  the 
militiamen,  only  something  over  600  re-enlisted, 
although  most  of  them  joined  the  service  later. 

In  addition  to  this,  over  800  of  Arizona's  young 

403 


404  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

men  voluntarily  enlisted  in  the  navy  and  the 
marines.  Statistics  are  not  available,  at  this  time, 
giving  the  number  of  commissioned  officers  that 
went  into  the  service  from  the  state,  but  in  pro- 
portion to  Arizona's  population,  the  number  is 
large.  The  estimate  made  by  the  state's  adjutant 
general's  office  for  army  and  navy  enlistments  and 
officers  commissioned  is  895. 

Up  to  June  1,  1918,  the  number  of  men  contrib- 
uted by  the  different  counties  in  the  draft  was  as 
follows : 

Cochise 1,154 

Maricopa 1,328 

Gila  1,037 

Yavapai   825 

Pima   736 

Greenlee 625 

Pinal 462 

Coconino    427 

Yuma  371 

Mojave   320 

Navajo 262 

Santa  Cruz 197 

Apache  148 

Not  identified 17 

Total    8,355 

These  figures,  which  were  later  increased  to 
10,000,  added  to  voluntary  enlistments  and  com- 
missioned officers,  brings  the  total  number  of  men 
going  into  service  from  Arizona  as  not  far  from 
twelve  thousand  out  of  an  available  population  of 
158,237  people. 


ARIZONA'S  PART  IN  THE  WAR  405 

With  but  few  exceptions  the  men  composing 
the  Arizona  contingent  went  not  only  willingly 
but  eagerly,  and  the  demonstrations,  made  at  their 
departure,  from  different  centers  of  population 
showed  how  sincerely  the  "folks  at  home"  were 
ready  to  "back  them  up."  Receptions,  parades, 
picnics,  banquets  and  balls  were  given  in  their 
honor;  speeches  wishing  them  Godspeed  were 
made  by  officials  from  the  governor  down;  flags 
were  flown,  bands  plaj^ed  their  most  martial 
music,  all  to  the  end  that  honor  might  be  shown 
those  who  gallantly  stood  ready  to  pledge  their 
lives  that  the  world  might  still  be  kept  a  fit  place 
to  live  in. 

The  one  conspicuous  case  of  attempt  at  draft 
evasion  in  Arizona  was  made  by  Tom  and  John 
Powers,  who  not  only  did  not  register,  but,  in  com- 
pany with  Tom  Sissons,  an  ex-convict,  shot  to 
death  Sheriff  Frank  McBride,  under-Sheriff  Mart 
R.  Kempton,  and  Deputy  Sheriff  Kane  Wootan,  of 
Graham  County,  when  they  came  to  arrest  them 
at  the  Powers  home  in  Rattlesnake  Canyon. 

So  outraged  were  the  people  of  Arizona  over 
the  crime  that  special  rewards  were  offered  by 
both  state  and  county  for  the  apprehension  of  the 
criminals,  and  practically  every  peace  officer  in 
that  section  of  the  state,  aided  by  hundreds  of 
civilian  possemen,  hunted  the  men  for  weeks, 
when  they  were  finally  apprehended  and  taken 
into  custody  by  United  States  soldiers  a  few  miles 
below  the  Mexican  line. 

America   entered    the  World's   War  April   6, 


406  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

1917.  That  same  month  the  obvious  necessity  for 
unity  and  cohesion  in  the  many  branches  of  work 
that  must  be  undertaken  in  this  state  was  met  by 
the  formation  of  the  Arizona  Council  of  Defense. 
The  organization  had  its  birth  April  17,  at  a  meet- 
ing of  fifty  prominent  citizens  of  the  state,  who 
were  called  together  by  Governor  Thomas  E. 
Campbell.  A  day  later  the  machinery  of  the 
Council  was  put  in  motion  with  Dwight  B.  Heard, 
chairman,  and  George  H.  Smally,  secretary. 

An  executive  committee  of  twelve  was  ap- 
pointed, and  fourteen  sub-committees  arranged 
for,  officered  by  efficient  and  well-known  citizens. 

One  of  the  first  things  undertaken  by  the 
Council,  through  its  various  committees,  was  the 
gathering  of  statistics  concerning  the  state's  re- 
sources and  cataloguing  the  same. 

The  information  thus  obtained  concerned  crops, 
railroads,  automobiles,  auto  trucks,  mining  pro- 
duction, labor  conditions  and  other  matters.  Plans 
for  the  production  and  conservation  of  food  sup- 
plies were  entered  into,  the  sub-committee  with 
this  in  charge  co-operating  with  the  various  county 
agents  acting  under  the  State  Experimental  Sta- 
tion. A  committee  on  relief  worked  with  a  Red 
Cross  committee  to  assist  families,  the  heads  of 
which  were  in  military  service;  the  committee  on 
military  training  encouraged  enlistments  and  aided 
in  organizing  forces  for  home  defense,  while  other 
departments  assisted  in  mobilizing  boys  for  farm 
labor,  in  organizing  Papago,  Apache  and  Navajo 
labor,  and  secured  a  modification  of  the  immigra- 


ARIZONA'S  PART  IN  THE  WAR  407 

tion  law  that  would  permit  cotton  growers  to  im- 
port pickers  from  Old  Mexico. 

These  are  but  hints  of  the  many  activities  un- 
dertaken by  the  Council  and  successfully  carried 
through.  "When  Governor  Hunt  again  assumed  the 
duties  of  governor  on  December  23,  1917,  he  be- 
came the  official  head  of  the  Council  of  Defense, 
and  ex-Governor  Campbell  took  a  place  in  the  ex- 
ecutive committee. 

Early  in  1918  the  Council  increased  its  zone  of 
usefulness  by  organizing  county  councils  to  work 
in  connection  with  the  state  organization.  Some 
of  the  benefits  of  this  extension  work  are  ex- 
pressed in  a  letter  from  President  Wilson  to  the 
state  chairman  under  date,  March  13,  1918. 

"Your  state,  in  extending  its  national  defense 
organization  by  the  creation  of  community  coun- 
cils, is,  in  my  opinion,  making  an  advance  of  vital 
significance.  It  will,  I  believe,  result,  when  thor- 
oughly carried  out,  in  welding  the  Nation  together 
as  no  nation  of  great  size  has  ever  been  welded 
before " 

A  woman's  committee  of  the  Arizona  division 
of  the  National  Council  of  Defense  was  organized 
with  Mrs.  Pauline  M.  O'Neill  as  state  chairman. 
This  bod3^  also  had  county  committees  which  did 
not  so  much  plan  to  organize  new  work  as  to  assist 
existing  agencies. 

The  zeal  displayed  by  the  people  of  Arizona  in 
the  purchase  of  Liberty  bonds  and  thrift  stamps 
and  in  contributing  to  the  Red  Cross  and  kindred 
organizations  was  in  no  wise  behind  its  other  war 


408  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

activities.  In  this  work  men  and  women  co-oper- 
ated. In  the  largest  cities  there  would  be  usually 
a  man  for  chairman,  but  women  took  an  active 
part  in  organizing  the  work,  in  receiving  contribu- 
tions and  making  house-to-house  canvasses.  In 
the  smaller  towns  women  would  often  have  tables 
in  the  postoflice  and  other  public  places  where 
every  person  who  passed  would  be  given  a  chance 
to  contribute. 

In  the  sale  of  thrift  stamps,  school  children 
took  a  very  active  part.  As  an  example  of  this,  in 
the  agricultural  district  of  Chandler,  where  the 
school  enrollment,  including  the  children  of  Mexi- 
can laborers,  was  five  hundred,  in  twenty-three 
days  in  May,  1918,  the  children  bought  with  their 
own  money  $1,155  worth  of  stamps.  Most  of  this 
was  earned  by  personal  labor,  the  children  hoeing 
weeds,  milking  cows,  collecting  and  selling  bottles, 
running  errands  and  the  like. 

The  sale  of  the  first  three  issues  of  Liberty 
bonds  in  the  state  was  as  follows:  First  issue, 
$6,703,400;  second  issue,  $12,092,450;  third  issue, 
$11,382,200;  fourth  issue,  $15,222,200. 

All  of  these  amounts  largely  exceeded  Arizona's 
quota. 

The  same  spirit  of  service  was  shown  in  Ari- 
zona's response  to  the  Red  Cross  drives.  The  first 
subscription  reached  $131,490.84.  Arizona's  allot- 
ment for  the  second  drive  made  in  May,  1918,  was 
$200,000.  Arizona  "went  over  the  top"  with  $459,- 
195.92.  In  the  purchase  of  bonds  and  in  making  of 
subscriptions,  all  classes  in  Arizona  seemed  to  join 


ARIZONA'S  PART  IN  THE  WAR  409 

with  equal  heartiness.  Not  only  did  the  rich  and 
well-to-do  contribute,  but  railroad  foremen,  man- 
agers of  stores  and  superintendents  of  mining  com- 
panies would  often  report  that  every  man  in  their 
employ  had  participated  in  the  various  drives. 

In  the  manufacture  of  hospital  dressings  and 
various  garments  the  Arizona  Red  Cross  is  said  to 
be  one  of  the  best  examples  of  efficiency  in  the 
entire  country.  No  rural  district  was  too  isolated, 
no  mining  camp  too  remote,  but  what  knitting 
needles  were  plied  and  sewing  machines  kept  busy 
to  serve  the  boys  at  the  front  and  provide  gar- 
ments for  the  destitute  in  the  battle-scarred  regions 
across  the  Atlantic.  Schoolboj's  as  well  as  school- 
girls, from  the  grammar  grades  up,  knitted. 

Arizona  had  its  chapter  of  the  United  States 
Boys'  Working  Reserve,  and  its  leader,  Lindley  B. 
Orme,  in  May,  1918,  reported :  "I  am  proud  to  say 
that  the  boys  of  Arizona  are  responding  with  true 
patriotism  for  enrollment  in  the  Boys'  Working 
Reserve." 

The  nation-wide  organization,  known  as  the 
Four  Minute  Men,  where  speakers  briefly  address 
audiences  in  theaters  and  other  places  on  patriotic 
subjects,  had  its  organization  in  Arizona  under  the 
direction  of  George  J.  Stoneman,  state  chairman. 
Capable  work  was  done  not  only  in  the  cities  and 
towns,  but  even  in  the  most  remote  portions  of  the 
state  forest  supervisors,  rangers  and  superintend- 
ents of  Indian  schools  were  enlisted  either  as 
speakers  or  as  agencies  for  the  distribution  of 
patriotic  literature. 


410  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

The  restrictions  in  food  consumption  required 
by  war's  necessities  were  accepted  with  willing- 
ness by  Arizona's  people.  M.  T.  Grier,  State  Hotel 
Chairman,  reports  in  April,  1918,  that  over  63,000 
pounds  of  flour  were  saved  in  Arizona  for  the 
month  of  March,  1918,  and  that  many  of  the  public 
eating  houses  in  the  state  were  using  no  wheat  at 
all.  In  May,  1918,  bread  cards  were  issued,  limit- 
ing each  person  to  six  pounds  of  flour  a  month. 

To  increase  Arizona's  grains  the  committee  on 
production  of  the  Council  of  Defense  made  special 
efforts  to  increase  the  production  of  milo,  kaffir 
and  feterita,  which  were  formerly  used  as  forage 
grains,  but  under  war  necessities  were  found  to 
make  very  good  bread. 

No  chapter  on  Arizona's  part  in  the  world's  war 
would  be  complete  without  mentioning  what  the 
University  of  Arizona  has  done.  Since  its  incep- 
tion the  university  has  been  a  military  school.  All 
male  students  are  required  to  take  two  years  in 
military  sciences  and  tactics.  A  majority  of  the 
graduates  have  taken  four. 

"Almost  to  a  man,"  says  President  von  Klein- 
Smid,  "have  the  students  of  the  university  qualified 
and  enlisted  in  Government  service,  some  as  offi- 
cers and  some  as  engineers  and  in  ambulance 
corps."  Forty  of  the  boys  were  excused  from 
school  work  for  service  to  the  Nation  along  agri- 
cultural lines. 

Among  the  women,  twenty-two  graduates  not 
only  volunteered  their  services  as  members  of  the 
Red  Cross,  but  completed  a  course  in  "first  aid" 
training  that  would  qualify  them  for  service. 


ARIZONA'S  PART  IN  THE  WAR  411 

In  no  wise  behind  the  other  activities  of  the 
university  has  been  the  work  of  its  agricultural 
extension  service,  whose  staff  of  workers  include 
agricultural  and  live  stock  specialists,  organizers 
of  boys'  and  girls'  agricultural  clubs,  and  agents  in 
each  county,  who  advise  farmers  as  to  the  best 
methods  of  crop  production. 

In  the  Arizona  State  Bureau  of  Mines  Director 
Charles  F.  Willis  compiled  statistics  concerning 
the  mineral  resources  of  the  state,  and,  in  different 
ways,  tried  to  stimulate  the  production  of  not  only 
such  staples  as  copper,  lead  and  zinc,  but  rarer 
minerals,  including  chromite,  manganese,  graph- 
ites, etc.,  needed  in  the  war. 

During  the  summer  months  of  1918  the  faculty 
of  the  university  remained  on  duty  instructing  two 
companies  of  selected  men  from  the  new  National 
army  in  mechanic  arts;  and  a  Students'  Army 
Training  Corps  was  organized  in  the  fall  of  1918. 

A  special  session  of  the  Third  State  Legislature, 
to  consider  various  measures  made  urgent  by  war 
conditions,  was  called  by  Governor  Hunt  to  meet 
May  21,  1918.  When  the  law-makers  convened 
there  were  two  empty  seats  in  the  House,  those  of 
Harold  Baxter  and  C.  C.  Faires,  both  in  military 
service  abroad,  and  during  the  session  Ernest  Hall, 
of  the  Senate,  also  left  for  the  front.  Their  vacant 
places  were  marked  by  the  display  of  American 
and  service  flags. 

Although  factional  politics  for  a  time  seemed 
to  threaten  the  serious  purpose  of  the  session, 
when  the  test  came,  most  of  the  legislators  gave 


412  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

evidence  of  appreciating  the  grave  responsibility 
that  rested  upon  them,  and  bills,  although  some 
of  them  were  perhaps  impaired  by  a  necessity  for 
compromise,  yet  meeting  the  most  pressing  of  the 
hour's  necessities,  were  passed. 

Chief  among  these  enactments  was  a  bill  pro- 
viding for  the  formation  of  a  legally  authorized 
and  empowered  council  of  defense  to  take  the 
place  of  the  emergency  body  created  by  Governor 
Campbell.  Under  this  law  the  council  was  to  con- 
sist of  the  governor,  acting  as  chairman,  and 
fourteen  members,  one  to  be  appointed  by  the  gov- 
ernor from  each  of  the  fourteen  counties  in  the 
state,  each  appointee  to  receive  ratification  from 
the  board  of  supervisors  acting  in  his  county. 
Among  other  functions  the  council  was  given 
power  to  initiate  all  necessary  measures  to  co- 
ordinate the  state's  war  activities  with  those  of 
the  national  Government,  to  supervise  the  solicita- 
tion of  funds  for  patriotic  purposes,  and  to  enlist 
the  co-operation  of  officials  and  private  citizens 
in  carrying  on  war  work  within  the  state.  It  was 
also  given  wide  investigational  powers. 

A  popular  enactment  was  one  granting  citizens 
of  the  state  in  military  service,  no  matter  where 
they  might  be,  the  right  to  vote,  the  ballots  after 
being  filled  out  by  the  soldiers  to  be  mailed  back 
to  the  proper  official  in  Arizona. 

Other  bills  passed  include  the  following:  De- 
fining the  crime  of  sabotage  and  fixing  the  penalty; 
prohibiting  the  giving  of  aid  or  employment  to 
draft   evaders   or  deserters;   an   Americanization 


ARIZONA'S  PART  IN  THE  WAR  413 

bill  providing  for  night  schools  for  the  instruction, 
in  the  English  language  and  in  American  ideals, 
of  non-speaking  aliens;  a  bill  granting  to  the  mem- 
bers of  the  National  Guard  credit  for  the  time 
engaged  by  them  in  the  federal  service;  an  anti- 
vagabondage  bill,  and  a  bill  making  it  a  special 
crime  to  give  false  affidavits  to  secure  an  improper 
classification  for  registration  under  the  selective 
draft. 

After  all,  if  there  were  some  heated  discussions 
indulged  in  during  the  session,  the  cause  of  it  need 
not  necessarily  be  laid  entirely  to  politics.  It  was 
Arizona  in  June,  and  during  the  time  the  solons 
sat,  under  the  droning  electric  fans,  wiping  the 
legislative  brow,  and,  sans  coats,  pulling  apart  the 
collars  of  the  senatorial  toga,  the  mercur\%  even 
in  the  louver-sided  instrument  box  on  top  of  the 
weather  bureau  office,  registered  113  3-5,  breaking 
the  record  for  eight  years.  When  on  June  19th 
the  session  adjourned,  with  one  accord  all  legis- 
lators living  in  the  cool,  mountainous  parts  of  the 
state  stayed  not  on  the  order  of  going,  nor  tarried 
by  the  waj'^side,  but  with  one  accord,  suitcases  in 
hands  and  vnih  nostrils  already  sniffing  highland 
breezes,  made  a  bee-line  for  the  railroad  station. 

The  State  Council  of  Defense,  as  provided  for 
under  the  new  law,  completed  its  organization  in 
Jul3%  1918,  with  an  executive  committee  as  fol- 
lows: 

Gov.  George  W.  P.  Hunt,  Phoenix,  chairman; 
C.  E.  Addams,  vice-chairman,  Ray,  Pinal  County; 
Mrs.  Theodora  Marsh,  Nogales;  W.  D.  Claypool, 


414  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Claypool,  Gila  County;  Homer  R.  Wood,  Prescott; 
D wight  B.  Heard,  Phoenix;  D.  T.  MacDougal, 
Tucson. 

The  first  native  Arizonan  to  give  up  his  life  for 
his  country  in  the  World  War  in  France  was  Mat- 
thew R.  Rivers,  a  Pima  Indian,  who  had  been 
educated  at  the  Sherman  Institute,  California. 
Like  many  other  Arizona  Indians,  he  had  shown 
his  patriotism  by  early  enlisting  in  the  army.  How- 
ever, with  most  of  the  Indians  of  the  state  the  navy 
was  the  favorite  branch  of  service,  although  many 
of  them  had  lived  on  the  desert  all  their  lives  and 
had  never  seen  the  ocean  until  they  enlisted. 

The  armistice  which  brought  the  World's  War 
to  an  end  was  signed  on  the  private  railroad  train 
of  Marshal  Foch  at  Rethondes,  France,  at  five 
o'clock  on  the  morning  of  November  11,  1918;  in 
Arizona,  on  account  of  the  difference  in  time,  it 
was  ten  o'clock  p.  m.,  November  10th. 

The  news  for  which  all  were  waiting  with  such 
eagerness  reached  our  cities  soon  after  midnight, 
when  bells  were  rung  and  whistles  blown  to  ex- 
press the  joy  of  those  who  had  stayed  up  to  wait 
the  tidings,  as  well  as  to  apprise  the  minority  who 
had  gone  to  bed  that  peace  had  come  at  last. 

As  was  the  case  with  much  of  America,  Arizona 
was  in  the  midst  of  a  visitation  of  the  ubiquitous 
"Spanish"  influenza.  Churches,  schools  and 
theaters  had  been  closed  and  public  meetings  for- 
bidden since  early  in  October,  and,  as  it  turned  out, 
the  ban  was  to  remain  in  force  until  nearly  the 
end  of  the  year;  nevertheless,  the  enthusiasm  of  the 


ARIZONA'S  PART  IN  THE  WAR  415 

people  was  too  great  to  be  refused  communal  and 
gregarious  expression,  even  by  quarantine  regula- 
tions, and  on  the  morning  of  the  11th  the  streets 
of  towns  and  cities  were  soon  filled  with  young 
and  old,  radiant  of  face  and  with  shining  eyes,  who 
made  the  air  vocal  with  enthusiastic  expressions 
of  joy  and  relief.  In  the  hour  the  austere  forgot 
their  dignity  and  the  most  incorrigible  pessimists 
played  the  part  of  Sunny  Jim. 

Those  whose  near  and  dear  were  in  their  coun- 
try's service,  said  in  varying  words  but  with  com- 
mon thought,  'The  boys  are  coming  back !"  Those 
whose  beloved  had  paid  the  supreme  price,  smiled 
through  tears  with  the  bravery  of  sacrifice  to  a 
high  and  noble  cause,  and  in  their  bereaved  hearts 
had  the  consolation  of  knowing  that  those  who  had 
laid  down  their  lives  had  not  "died  in  vain." 
Women  cried,  "We've  won !  We've  won !"  and  all 
the  ages  of  man,  from  schoolboy  to  "slippered 
pantaloon,"  chortled  in  common  and  commendable 
atavism,  in  all  the  keys  of  human  expression, 
"B'gee,  we've  licked  'em!" 


Chapter  XXVII 

ARIZONA  PLANT  LIFE 

In  collaboration  with  J.  J.  Thornber,  A.  M. 

THERE  are  places  in  Arizona,  when  the  sun  is 
shining  where  a  man  may  go  coatless  with 
comfort  in  mid-winter.  There  are  other 
places  in  the  state  where  the  camper-out,  if  he 
would  keep  the  shivers  from  his  back,  must  have 
an  evening  fire  throughout  the  entire  summer. 
These  extremes  in  temperature  are  caused  by  dif- 
ferences in  altitude,  and  as  in  the  lowest  altitudes 
the  rainfall  is  not  over  five  inches  for  the  entire 
year,  and  in  places  in  the  mountains  it  is  five  or 
six  times  that  amount,  the  variations  in  plant  life 
are  even  more  striking  than  the  climatic  diff'er- 
ences. 

Topographically,  Arizona  falls  naturally  into 
three  distinct  physical  divisions.  The  southwestern 
part  of  the  state  is,  for  the  most  part,  a  flat  desert, 
out  of  which  gaunt  mountains  rise,  whose  rocky 
surfaces,  save  where  cacti  or  hardy  shrubs  find 
footing  in  fissures  in  the  sandstone  or  lava  rock, 
are  devoid  of  vegetation.  In  the  northern  part  of 
the  state  there  is  a  plateau,  averaging  in  height 
about  a  mile  above  sea  level,  with  mountains  here 
and  there,  whose  snow-capped  peaks  reach  an  ele- 

416 


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ARIZONA  PLANT  LIFE  417 

vation  of  twelve  thousand  feet.  Between  these  two 
extremes  comes  the  foothill  country. 

Each  of  these  divisions  has  its  own  particular 
flora,  and  included  among  its  trees,  shrubs,  grasses, 
flowers  and  even  ferns  are  nearly  3,000  species  of 
plants,  representing  almost  every  plant  family  in 
our  large  country.  Some  of  these  have  been  recog- 
nized quickly  as  worthy  of  places  in  our  yards, 
gardens  and  conservatories,  and  in  time  many 
others,  through  merit,  are  sure  to  find  their  way 
into  cultivation  to  become  a  help  to  mankind. 
There  is  almost  no  season  of  the  year  when  one 
can  not  find  flowers  somewhere  in  Arizona. 

On  the  low,  desert  floor  to  the  south,  in  order 
to  maintain  existence,  plant  life  must  ever  protect 
itself  both  against  the  hot,  dry,  scorching  air  that 
would  wring  from  it  the  little  water  it  obtains 
from  the  infrequent  rains,  and  animals  that  in  a 
country  of  sparse  vegetation  seem  ready  to  con- 
sume almost  anything  that  grows. 

The  methods  the  diff'erent  plants  take  in  their 
struggle  for  existence  are  full  of  interest.  Some 
of  the  cacti  store  water  in  their  thick,  stalky  trunks 
or  fleshy  stems,  others  in  bulbous  roots.  Several 
of  the  shrubs  have  varnished  leaves,  which  greatly 
lessens  evaporation,  and  on  nearly  all  of  the  trees 
there  is  a  greatly  reduced  leaf  surface. 

The  protection  the  desert  plant  has  against  ani- 
mals is  equally  efficacious,  though  botanists  tell  us 
that  desert  conditions  are  largely  responsible  for 
their  characteristic  growth.  Examine  almost  any- 
thing that  grows  on  the  desert,  whether  it  be  shrub, 

27 


418  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

cactus  or  tree,  and  you  will  find  that  it  bristles 
with  thorns  or  spikes  that  say  to  the  marauder, 
"Beware!    Disturb  me  at  your  peril!" 

Perhaps  the  most  characteristic  growth  to  be 
found  on  the  desert  floor  is  the  creosote  bush, 
though  it  is  found  to  some  extent  on  mesas  and  in 
the  foothills.  It  stands  any  amount  of  heat,  and 
covers  much  of  the  country  from  the  mountains, 
south  and  west,  beyond  the  borders  of  the  state. 
The  bush  is  about  five  feet  in  height,  and  its  small, 
varnished,  glossy  leaves  feel  sticky  to  the  touch. 
Always  attractive  in  appearance,  it  is  at  its  best 
in  March  and  April,  when  it  is  covered  with  little 
yellow  flowers,  followed  later  by  white,  fluffy  seed 
balls. 

Except  after  winter  or  early  spring  rains,  the 
ground  between  the  bushes  is  wholly  bare,  the 
brown,  hard  soil  looking  sterile  enough,  yet  when 
the  seeds  which  lie  within  its  hard  crust  are  quick- 
ened by  rains,  myriads  of  flowers  and  grasses 
spring  into  life  to  bloom  and  seed  before  the 
scorching  sun  of  summer  shall  end  the  short  cycle 
of  their  existence. 

With  seasonable  rains  in  the  winter  and  spring 
the  barren  foothills  and  semi-desert  areas  of  south- 
ern and  western  Arizona  are  carpeted  with  a 
wealth  of  golden  poppies,  purple  phacelias,  blue 
covenas  and  larkspurs,  orange  and  yellow  mari- 
posa  lilies  and  bright  flowered  gaillardias  and 
paintbrushes.  Usually  these  form  a  mosaic  broken 
here  and  there,  though  in  more  favorable  locations 
they  grow  in  vast  beds,  where    the  poppies  and 


ARIZONA  PLANT  LIFE  419 

mariposa  lilies  give  their  colors  of  gold  and  orange 
to  the  landscape  for  miles  along  the  foothills. 
Other  flowers  less  in  evidence  at  this  season  are 
tidy  tips,  cream  cups,  anemones,  desert  stars,  dai- 
sies, borages,  fairy  dusters,  gilias,  wild  flax,  even- 
ing primroses  and  desert  holly.  There  are  more 
than  two  hundred  of  these  early  blooming  flowers, 
most  of  them  small  annuals,  gro\\dng  and  flourish- 
ing during  the  cool,  moist  weather  of  late  winter 
and  spring. 

All  through  the  desert  country  and  foothills,  up 
to  three  thousand  feet,  among  characteristic  desert 
growths  rises  the  giant  cactus,  which  the  Arizonan 
calls  the  "suhuaro"  and  the  botanist  the  "Cereus 
giganteus."  Nothing  within  the  borders  of  Arizona 
is  more  picturesque  or  striking  than  these  senti- 
nels of  the  plains,  which  rear  their  fluted  columns 
to  a  height  of  from  thirty  to  fifty  feet.  Their  few 
branches,  thick  and  sturdy,  rise  candelabra-like 
close  along  the  sides  of  the  parent  stalk,  and,  like 
it,  are  protected  with  little  rosettes  of  thorns.  Dur- 
ing May  and  June  handsome  white,  wax-like  flow- 
ers form  at  its  crown,  and  from  these  grow  oval 
fruits  with  crimson  flesh  and  black  seeds.  This 
great  tree  of  a  cactus  is  unique  among  plants,  and 
its  blossom  was  well  chosen  as  the  State  Flower 
of  Arizona.  Woodpeckers  make  holes  high  up  on 
the  trunks  of  the  suhuaro  for  nests,  afterwards 
these  holes  are  often  used  by  the  tinj'  elf  owl. 

To  the  casual  observer  the  bisnaga,  or  barrel 
cactus  (Echinocactus  Wislizeni),  is  sometimes  mis- 
taken for   a  young   suhuaro.     Even  a  superficial 


420  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

examination,  however,  discloses  many  striking  dif- 
ferences, for,  while  with  the  suhuaro  the  thorns 
are  straight,  in  the  bisnaga  they  are  curved  like  a 
fish  hook.  They  have  no  arms,  and  are  seldom 
more  than  four  or  five  feet  in  height. 

The  most  cruel  and  menacing  of  all  the  desert 
growths  are  varieties  of  Opuntia,  commonly  known 
as  the  cholla.  The  most  malignant  of  several  sim- 
ilar varieties  is  the  Opuntia  fulgida,  which  grows 
from  four  to  six  feet  in  height,  and  is  a  mass  of 
spreading,  contorted  branches  covered  with  cruel 
thorns.  Brush  them  ever  so  slightly  with  hand  or 
clothing  and  the  little,  short  terminal  branches 
break  at  their  brittle,  cylindrical  joints,  when  the 
thorns  seem  to  fairly  eat  into  the  flesh.  So  readily 
will  these  branches  attach  themselves  to  the  unfor- 
tunate man  or  beast  who  touches  them  that  there 
are  many  who  believe  that  they  jump  at  one. 

But  while  the  cholla  shows  its  fangs  to  the 
stranger,  it  gives  protection  to  its  friends.  Lizards 
are  ever  ready  to  take  refuge  among  loose  piles  of 
dropped  joints,  several  varieties  of  birds  nest 
among  its  spiny  branches,  and  desert  rats  will  use 
the  thorny  branches  as  the  outer  wall  of  a  fortress 
around  their  nest  as  a  protection  against  those 
who  would  molest  them.  The  cholla's  many  plant 
cousins  have  more  or  less  its  same  characteristics, 
varying  in  height  from  small  shrubs  to  trees  higher 
than  one's  head. 

The  well-known  prickly  pear,  or  nopal,  is  also  an 
Opuntia,  and,  as  with  most  cacti,  its  blossom  ma- 
tures into  a  fruit,  of  which  more  will  be  said 
later. 


ARIZONA  PLANT  LIFE  421 

Both  prickly  pears  and  chollas  are  forage  plants, 
and  if  the  thorns  are  burned  off,  which  can  be 
done  easily,  the  rather  succulent  branches  are 
eaten  with  avidity  by  stock.  Indeed,  a  goat,  if 
hungry,  will  eat  cholla  branches,  thorns  and  all, 
with  apparent  relish.  When  other  food  is  scarce 
a  wise,  old,  range  cow  will  sometimes  be  seen  din- 
ing on  prickly  pear.  With  one  end  of  a  joint  in  her 
mouth  she  will  beat  a  branch  against  the  ground 
until,  when  the  thorns  are  somewhat  subdued,  she 
will  calmly  swallow  it. 

Of  the  smaller  varieties  of  cacti  there  is  none 
more  interesting  than  the  pincushion  {Mamillaria 
Grahami).  It  grows  in  a  tiny  ball,  often  not  much 
larger  than  a  door  knob,  and  is  covered  with  little 
stars  of  spines,  from  which  a  tiny  fish  hook  rises 
in  the  center.  Its  fruit  is  a  bright,  scarlet  berry 
that  grows  out  like  a  very  tiny  baby's  finger. 

Those  mentioned  are,  of  course,  but  hints  of  the 
hundred  or  more  varieties  of  cacti  which  grow  in 
Arizona.  Their  flowers  are  among  the  most  gor- 
geous on  the  desert,  but  they  are  not  "bouquet 
flowers,"  and  woe  is  to  him  who  would  try  to  pick 
them.  Though  cactus  flowers  last  but  a  day,  they 
can  easily  match  every  shade  of  the  rainbow  with 
their  colors  of  pure  white,  yellow,  orange,  pink, 
red,  magenta,  purple  and  maroon,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  indeterminate  tints.  Arizona's  finest  flower 
is  the  rare  night-blooming  cereus.  This  wonderful 
blossom  is  eight  or  nine  inches  long  and  bell- 
shaped,  with  numerous  cream  white  petals  and 
stamens,  often  tinged  with  pink  and  brown. 


422  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

The  ocotillo  (Fouquiera  splendens),  which  is 
usually  found  in  the  foothills,  though  not  scien- 
tifically a  cactus,  is  often  classed  with  them.  It  is 
sometimes  called  the  devil's  coachwhip,  and 
grows  in  groups  of  whip-like  stalks  five  to  fifteen 
feet  or  more  in  height,  and,  of  course,  is  armed 
with  the  inevitable  thorn.  In  the  spring  the  ends 
of  these  whips,  which  are  occasionally  clothed 
with  soft  green  leaves,  bear  hundreds  of  crimson 
flowers,  a  striking  and  wonderful  flame  of  color, 
against  a  desert  background. 

The  most  prominent  trees  of  the  desert  are  the 
mesquite,  the  ironwood  and  the  palo  verde.  These 
trees  grow  most  thriftily  when  found  along  washes 
or  in  depressions  in  the  desert,  where,  by  reason 
of  drainage,  they  are  favorably  located  to  collect 
moisture.  Although  the  palo  verde,  especially,  is 
found  in  sterile  soil,  the  ironwood  and  mesquite 
reach  their  best  development  in  rich,  alluvial  de- 
posits. 

The  mesquite,  the  most  valuable  to  man  of  all 
the  desert  trees,  is  a  low-growing,  spreading  tree 
of  the  Mimosa  family,  with  finely  divided  leaves 
and  many  small  leaflets.  Bees  make  beautiful 
white  honey  from  its  masses  of  cream-yellow  flow- 
ers, which  appear  in  May  and  June.  Later  beans 
are  formed,  which  make  valuable  stock  food.  Its 
wood  makes  excellent  fence  posts  and  fuel.  From 
a  distance  old  mesquite  trees  look  not  unlike  old 
apple  trees. 

The  ironwood  (Olneya  tesota),  which  likes  the 
desert  and  low  altitudes,  is  a  member  of  the  pea 


ARIZONA  PLANT  LIFE  423 

or  clover  family,  and  late  in  the  spring  has  a  pea- 
like, lavender-colored  flower,  followed  by  a  pod 
with  several  seeds.  The  wood  is  so  heavy  that  it 
will  sink  in  water.  The  Pima  and  Papago  Indians 
not  only  made  spades  of  it,  but  a  mallet  or  war 
club,  with  which  thej^  would  slip  into  Apache 
camps  at  night  and  deftly  brain  their  ancient 
enemies. 

The  palo  verde  is  beloved  by  all  who  know  the 
desert  and  have  an  appreciation  of  its  picturesque- 
ness  and  beauty.  Though  for  much  of  the  year 
this  unique  tree  is  wholly  devoid  of  the  small 
leaves  it  bears  for  a  part  of  the  summer,  its  nu- 
merous branches  and  twigs  spreading  gracefully 
from  a  short  trunk  are  of  a  soft  delicate  shade  of 
green,  and  even  then  form  a  picture  full  of  charm. 
It  is  in  May,  however,  that  the  palo  verde  becomes 
truly  splendid,  for  then  the  entire  top  may  be  a 
mass  of  yellow  flowers  that  are  fairly  dazzling. 

In  the  river  bottoms — such  as  those  of  the  Salt, 
Gila  and  Colorado — in  the  desert  countrA^  one  finds 
the  willow  and  the  cottonwood,  the  latter  being 
the  noblest  tree  that  grows  in  the  Southwest,  often 
attaining  a  height  of  ninety  feet,  with  a  wide- 
spreading  canopy  of  branches  and  deep  green 
leaves. 

The  arrow  weed  {Pluchca  horealis)  and  the 
"bata  mote"  {Baccharis  glutinosa)  inhabit  river 
banks  and  flood  plains  in  the  hot  lowlands.  The 
Indians  make  excellent  arrows  from  them. 

The  desert  pampas  (Baccharis  sarathroides)  is 
an  interesting  desert  shrub  growing  in  the  river 


424  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

valleys  and  arid  mesas  in  southern  Arizona.  Its 
slender,  angular,  evergreen  twigs  are  almost  desti- 
tute of  leaves,  but  in  the  autumn  it  produces  masses 
of  white,  cottony  down  that  make  it  very  attrac- 
tive. 

A  bush  that  never  fails  to  attract  the  attention 
of  the  traveler  is  the  crucifixion  thorn  {Holacantha 
Emoryi).  It  usually  grows  to  a  height  of  from 
four  to  ten  feet.  Its  bark  is  smooth  and  green; 
there  is  no  leaf  nor  rosette  of  thorns,  but  every 
twig  ends  in  a  hard,  sharp  spiny  point.  As  Van 
Dyke  says,  "The  shrub  seems  created  for  no  other 
purpose  than  the  glorification  of  the  thorn  as  a 
thorn."  It  is  found  on  such  desert  areas  as  those 
surrounding  the  Salt  River  valley. 

The  desert  flowers  which  have  been  noted  mostly 
disappear  with  the  dry,  hot  fore-summer,  and  the 
landscape  is  again  desolate  save  for  the  scattered 
shrubs  and  low  trees,  whose  foliage  is  yellowish, 
dull  brownish  or  sage  green.  Late  in  July  or  Au- 
gust the  ever-welcome  summer  showers  come; 
these  soften  and  moisten  the  air  and  bring  life 
anew  to  the  parched  mesas  and  foothills,  and  an- 
other group  of  desert  flowers  spring  as  if  by  magic 
into  existence,  for  now  the  weather  is  warm  and 
growth  is  rapid.  These  are  represented  by  the 
showy  Mexican  poppies  or  golden  caltrops,  blue, 
white  and  scarlet  morning-glories,  purple  four- 
o'clocks,  fragrant  yellow-flowered  martinos  or 
devil's  claws,  besides  asters,  lemon  weeds,  zinnias, 
marigolds,  verbenas  and  cassias.  Among  cacti, 
bisnagas  or  fish  hook  cacti,  wear  crowns  of  golden 


ARIZONA  PLANT  LIFE  425 

or  orange-red  blossoms  and  large  choUas,  glisten- 
ing with  white  spines,  are  very  attractive.  Nopals 
or  prickly  pears  are  equally  showy  at  this  season 
with  their  abundance  of  deep  red  or  magenta 
fruits.  Creosote  bushes,  mesquites  and  acacias 
often  bloom  profusely  for  a  second  time,  as  if  one 
splendid  flowering  season  was  not  enough. 

In  journeying  from  the  lowlands  to  the  high- 
lands of  Arizona,  as  one  does,  for  instance,  when 
making  the  trip  from  Phoenix  to  Prescott,  even  the 
wonderful  scenery  that  on  all  sides  commands 
admiration  scarely  holds  the  observer  in  more 
fascinated  attention  than  does  the  ever-changing 
panorama  of  plant  life. 

As  one  gets  into  the  foothills  ironwood  trees, 
creosote  bushes  and  salt  bushes  are  slowly  left  be- 
hind. Mesquites  are  still  seen  and  acacias,  cat's- 
claw  and  brittle  bushes,  all  of  which  flower  in 
April  or  May.  Chollas,  too,  have  disappeared,  and 
as  the  suhuaros  grow  fewer  in  number  and  finally 
no  longer  show  against  the  rocky  hillsides,  yuccas 
take  their  place,  and  if  it  be  early  summer  some  of 
them  will  be  adorped  with  tall,  white,  spire-like 
panicles  of  most  beautiful  flowers.  A  few  miles 
farther  and  on  a  steep  slope  there  may  be  seen  a 
clump  of  agaves,  similar  to  the  century  plant  of 
the  conservatory,  only  smaller,  and  from  the  cen- 
ter of  the  bayonet-like  cluster  of  leaves  at  the 
ground  rises  a  straight  stalk  ten  feet  or  so,  with 
yellow-reddish  branches  coming  out  near  the  top 
and  terminating  in  big  yellow  flowers — the  whole 
effect  being  that  of  a  great  candelabra. 


426  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

At  an  altitude  of  about  four  thousand  feet,  scrub 
oaks  begin  to  appear  and  soon  cover  the  ever- 
rising  hills.  If  you  pass  through  a  wash  where 
trickling  water  runs,  hackberry  or  ash  trees  may 
be  observed,  or  perhaps  a  great  Arizona  sycamore, 
which  is  a  particularly  striking  looking  tree  with 
its  large,  sharply  lobed  leaves  and  its  white  bark, 
which  has  the  habit  of  renewing  itself  annually. 

Finally  one  comes  to  the  bottom  of  a  tremen- 
dous hill,  three,  four  or  even  five  miles  in  length, 
and  after  a  long  climb  upwards  through  scrub 
oaks,  with  occasional  glimpses  of  juniper  trees, 
he  comes  to  the  top,  and  "Presto!  Change!"  He 
feels  quite  like  Jack  of  the  Bean-stalk  must  have 
felt  when  he  poked  his  head  up  through  the  floor 
of  the  Giant's  country. 

Everything  suggestive  of  the  desert  has  now  been 
left  behind.  Even  in  mid-summer  instead  of 
scorching  heat,  cool  breezes  fan  the  cheek,  and  if 
the  summer  rains  have  begun,  the  ground  will  be 
covered  with  grasses  and  shrubs,  perhaps  flowers, 
which  are  distinct  from  and  also  more  showy  than 
those  of  the  lower  mesas  and  foothills.  These  will 
include  verbenas,  painted  cups,  lupines,  yellow 
peas  and  wild  beans,  with  Indian  paintbrushes  on 
the  hillsides,  and  all  about  one  rise  great  pines, 
pointing  like  cathedral  spires  to  the  sky. 

To  any  one  interested  in  the  out-of-doors  in  gen- 
eral and  trees  in  particular,  there  are  many  things 
about  the  Arizona  conifers  worth  noticing.  One 
may  follow  automobile  roads  for  hundreds  of 
miles  and  be  surrounded  with  pines,  junipers  or 


ARIZONA  PLANT  LIFE  427 

firs  all  the  time.  Ten  varieties,  altogether,  there 
are  of  the  pines,  and  the  most  widely  distributed 
of  them  all  in  the  state  is  the  western  yellow  pine, 
the  Pinus  scopulorum,  which  is  to  say,  "The  Pine- 
among-the-rocks."  Its  majestic  size  is  surpassed 
by  few  other  pines,  as  it  rises  to  a  height  of  125 
to  140  feet,  with  a  practically  clear  trunk  of  from 
forty  to  sixty  feet.  It  makes  excellent  lumber, 
being  soft  and  easy  to  work,  and  is  suitable  for 
both  interior  and  exterior  purposes.  Remarkable 
as  it  may  seem  to  the  stranger  in  the  Southwest, 
the  largest  yellow  pine  forest  in  North  America 
occurs  in  Arizona. 

The  Apache  pine  is  interesting  because  of  its 
rareness,  being  found  but  seldom  in  America  out- 
side of  the  southeastern  part  of  this  state.  It 
grows  fifty  feet  or  more  in  height,  with  an  open, 
round-topped  crown.  It  is  known  by  its  long 
needles. 

The  Chihuahua  pine  is  also  found  in  the  moun- 
tains in  southeastern  Arizona,  and  extends  down 
into  Mexico.  It  is  smaller  than  the  Apache  pine 
and,  compared  with  other  associated  pines,  its 
foliage  appears  thin  and  pale. 

Three  nut  pines  grow  in  Arizona — the  Mexican 
pinon,  the  Pinus  edulis  and  the  single  leaf  pine. 
All  have  the  short  needles,  characteristic  of  the 
piiion.  They  are  much  smaller  than  the  pine  and 
bear  in  their  cones  the  nuts  that  are  valued  almost 
as  much  by  the  Americans  as  they  are  by  the  Mexi- 
cans and  Indians. 

Two  of  the  most  beautiful  of  all  the  conifers  of 


428  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

the  mountain  districts  of  Arizona  are  the  Engle- 
mann  spruce  and  the  blue  spruce,  which  are  usu- 
ally found  at  an  altitude  of  over  seven  thousand 
feet.  They  are  about  as  tall  as  the  Pinus  scopu- 
lorum,  and  with  their  blue-green  foliage  and 
draped  as  they  sometimes  are  with  gray-green 
lichens  resembling  Spanish  moss,  their  appear- 
ance, towering  against  the  background  of  a  canyon 
wall,  is  nothing  less  than  majestic. 

Arizona  has  an  unusual  and  beautiful  tree  in  the 
cork  fir,  which,  growing  at  an  altitude  of  8,500  feet 
or  higher,  is  recognized  by  light-colored,  silvery 
bark,  which  is  cork-like  and  peels  off  in  large,  thin 
layers.  Its  usual  height  is  from  100  to  120  feet, 
with  light  green  foliage.  It  is  common  in  the  for- 
ests about  the  San  Francisco  Mountains,  in  the 
White  Mountains  and  occasionally  on  the  Graham 
and  Santa  Catalina  Mountains. 

The  silver  fir  (Abies  concolor),  with  fine  silvery 
or  blue-green  foliage,  is  somewhat  similar,  but 
does  not  have  the  cork-like  bark.  This  tree  is  com- 
mon throughout  the  mountains  of  Arizona,  at  an 
altitude  of  7,500  to  8,000  feet. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  junipers  found  in 
the  mountain  regions.  They  are  low-growing  trees 
with  rounded  tops  and  usually  with  wide-spread- 
ing branches.  They  have  thick,  scale-like  leaves 
and  interesting,  compact  little  berries,  which  are 
really  made  over  cones.  The  fragrant  wood  is  used 
for  a  variety  of  things,  from  posts  to  pencils,  and 
burns  vdthout  the  pitchy  smoke  of  the  pines.  Juni- 
per, by  the  way,  is  but  another  name  for  cedar,  of 
which  there  are  at  least  four  varieties  in  the  state. 


ARIZONA  PLANT  LIFE  429 

The  Arizona  cypress  (Cupressiis  arizonica)  is  a 
tree  that  has  been  transplanted  from  its  mountain 
home,  to  make  an  excellent  ornamental  tree  for 
the  lawn  in  the  lower  valleys.  Its  leaves  are  scale- 
like— small,  silver}'  green,  and  it  is  readily  distin- 
guished from  the  junipers,  in  that  it  is  not  so  wade 
spreading  and  by  the  fact  that  the  fruits  are  com- 
pact, small,  thick-scaled  cones,  and  not  at  all 
"berries." 

No  tree  in  the  high  mountain  country  is  more 
beautiful  than  the  quaking  aspen,  which  is  rarely 
seen  lower  than  seven  thousand  feet.  The  aspens 
are  found  in  little  groves  on  mountain  slopes, 
where  their  straight  white  trunks  and  their  leaves, 
ever  trembling  in  the  cool,  pure  air,  present  a  pic- 
ture of  rare  loveliness. 

Maple  trees  find  a  congenial  home  in  high, 
shadowy  mountain  canyons,  where  snows  lie  in 
winter  and  brooks  trickle  in  summer.  Also  here 
and  on  pine  and  spruce-covered  slopes,  where  the 
summer  air  is  moist  from  frequent  thunder  show- 
ers, are  to  be  found  throughout  the  summer  and 
autumn  veritable  flower  beds,  where  grow  painted 
cups,  beardtongues,  gilias  or  skyrockets,  wild  fuch- 
sias, bouvardias  and  a  lobelia,  all  of  which  will 
have  bright  scarlet  or  red  flowers,  also  golden  and 
cardinal  columbines,  tall,  blue  larkspurs,  lupines 
and  irises,  evening  primroses,  cardinal  and  3'ellow 
monkey  flowers,  orange  and  red-flowered  milk- 
weeds, golden  glow  and  occasional  patches  of 
Parrj^'s  yellow  lily,  besides  wild  roses,  honey- 
suckles and  spiraeas  and  a  host  of  smaller  flowers. 


430  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

like  geraniums,  primroses,  shooting  stars,  violets, 
wild  peas  and  vetches,  bluebells,  buttercups,  false 
Solomon's  seal,  also  lady  slippers  and  numerous 
other  orchids. 

Among  the  earliest  of  the  mountain  flowers  are 
the  sego  lilies,  with  blossoms  of  pale  pink,  blend- 
ing into  lavender.  The  glory  of  the  autumn  is  the 
goldenrod. 

To  return  to  our  trees:  In  conclusion  let  us  say 
that  in  Arizona  the  pines,  firs  and  spruces  are  rep- 
resented by  about  fifteen  species;  in  addition  to 
these  there  are  two  to  several  species  each  of 
junipers,  cypresses,  alders,  oaks,  walnuts,  willows, 
cottonwoods  or  poplars,  ash  trees,  maples,  wild 
cherries,  ironwoods,  mesquites,  palo  verdes  and 
elderberries.  The  birch,  hackberry,  mulberry, 
soapberry,  sycamore,  cat's-claw,  locust,  redbud, 
mountain  mahogany,  mountain  ash,  thorn,  ma- 
drone  and  desert  willow  are  each  represented  by 
one  species. 

Wild  grapes  are  common  at  an  altitude  of  a  half 
mile  or  more  in  ravines,  where  water  runs  in  times 
of  rain,  and  in  high,  moist  specially  favored  spots 
blackberry,  gooseberry'  and  raspberry  bushes  may 
be  found. 

The  flora  of  Arizona  is  also  rich  in  grasses. 
Though  widely  distributed  over  the  state,  grasses 
are  most  abundant  between  the  altitudes  of  3,000 
and  8,000  feet,  where  the  great  bunch  grass  areas 
occur.  Grama  and  mesquite  are  the  most  valuable 
of  our  grasses,  and  are  noted  the  world  over  for 
their  grazing  value.    Nearly  all  the  species  of  these 


ARIZONA  PLANT  LIFE  431 

grasses  growing  in  our  country'  are  found  in  Ari- 
zona. Though  superior  at  all  times  to  other 
grasses  for  grazing,  grama  grasses  have  the  prop- 
erty of  curing  naturally  on  the  ranges  during  the 
long,  dry  falls,  and  hence  are  invaluable  for  winter 
grazing.  Other  important  groups  are  the  blue- 
stem  grasses,  tripleawn  grasses,  drop-seed  grasses, 
mountain  bunch  grasses  and  wheat  grasses,  the 
two  latter  growing  mostly  at  high  altitudes.  Saca- 
ton,  galleta  or  tubosa  and  desert  cracker  grass  are 
other  interesting,  though  less  valuable  grasses. 
The  six-weeks  grasses  are  small  annuals,  growing 
on  the  desert  areas  and  completing  their  growth 
within  a  period  of  from  four  to  six  weeks  during 
the  summer  rainy  period. 

To  those  who  in  their  minds  have  associated 
Arizona  only  with  cacti,  sagebrush  or  creosote 
bushes,  it  will  come  as  a  surprise  to  learn  that 
within  the  state  there  are  more  than  fifty  kinds  of 
ferns,  including  water  ferns  growing  in  ponds, 
desert  ferns  inhabiting  the  most  arid,  uninviting 
rocky  foothills,  and  ferns  frequenting  cool,  moist, 
shady  canyons  of  our  high  mountains.  The  finest 
as  well  as  the  largest,  of  our  ferns  is  the  great 
chain  fern  (Woodwardia  radicans),  which  grows 
to  a  height  of  five  to  seven  feet,  with  fronds  three 
to  four  feet  long.  It  has  a  short,  trunk-like  caudex, 
which  often  gives  it  the  appearance  of  a  tree  fern. 
The  gold  and  silver  fern  grows  but  a  few  inches 
high  in  the  shade  of  rocks  in  low  canyons  in  the 
early  spring,  and  the  delicate  southern  maidenhair 
fern  is  one  of  the  finest  of  the  group. 


432  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

OLD  MADAM  NATURE'S  CAFETERIA 
CATERING  ESPECIALLY  TO  ABORIGINES 

To  the  white  man  only  a  few  of  the  trees,  bushes 
and  plants  we  have  been  considering  would  be  re- 
garded as  productive  of  food,  but  to  the  aborigine, 
whose  garden  provided  him  at  best  with  only 
squash,  corn  and  beans,  demands  for  a  more  va- 
ried vegetable  diet,  and  for  fruit,  if  possible,  stim- 
ulated him  to  experiment  with  many  unpromising 
growths. 

Pine  nuts,  bellotas,  walnuts  and  wild  grapes, 
wild  currants,  gooseberries,  strawberries  and  rasp- 
berries were  naturally  all  eaten  with  avidity  by 
the  highland  Indian,  nevertheless  they  were  given 
decidedly  a  second  place  to  the  agave.  About  the 
first  of  July  the  stalk  that  later  would  have  borne 
its  wealth  of  flowers,  is  very  tender,  juicy  and 
sweet,  its  heart  resembling  the  sugarcane.  From  it 
the  noble  braves  made  "tizwin,"  a  firewater  that 
when  imbibed  by  the  redman  turned  him  into 
something  akin  to  a  homicidal  maniac. 

The  heart  and  bases  of  the  under  leaves  were 
roasted  in  pits  dug  in  the  ground,  the  heat  being 
supplied  by  hot  stones.  After  being  left  in  these 
primitive  ovens  for  two  days  the  stalks  would  be 
reduced  to  a  pulpy,  sweetish,  glutinous  mass,  not 
at  all  unpalatable. 

The  southwestern  Indian  was  ever  more  cleanly 
than  the  northern  members  of  his  race.  One  rea- 
son probably  was  that  when  the  thermometer 
stands   above   one  hundred,   bathing  becomes   a 


ARIZONA  PLANT  LIFE  433 

pleasurable  exercise.  Another  reason  may  have 
been  the  familiarity  the  redman  had  with  the 
properties  of  the  amole  (of  the  Yucca  family), 
whose  roots  make  a  splendid  substitute  for  soap, 
as  well  as  an  excellent  hair  invigorator. 

But  to  return  to  our  bill  of  fare :  There  is  a  wild 
parsnip  that  grows  on  the  higher  levels  in  Arizona 
that  in  the  '50s  the  Pai-ute  women  used  to  collect 
in  large  quantities  in  the  early  months  of  the  year. 
It  was  dried,  ground  and  stored  for  future  use. 

The  fruits  of  many  different  kinds  of  cacti  were 
highly  prized  by  the  Indians  for  food.  The  fruit 
of  the  prickly  pear  was  eaten  by  the  redmen  both 
raw  and  cooked,  and  Mexican  and  American  pio- 
neers alike  made  excellent  jelly  from  it.  Berries 
of  Arizona's  several  varieties  of  manzanito  also 
make  delicious  jelly. 

Preserves,  jams  and  dried  sweet  meats  were 
made  from  the  fruit  of  the  suhuaro,  and  specially 
prized  by  the  Pimas  and  Papagos,  In  the  early 
days  the  Pimas,  once  a  year,  would  allow  a  portion 
of  the  syrup  made  from  the  suhuaro  fruit  to  fer- 
ment, and  on  the  liquor  thus  obtained  would  go 
on  a  debauch  which  would  usually  last  for  two 
days,  after  which  they  would  return  to  their  usual 
life  of  sobriety  for  another  twelve  months. 

Mesquite  beans  were  a  staple  with  the  Pimas, 
Papagos,  Yumas  and  other  desert  Indians.  The 
beans  were  dried  and  ground,  and  the  meal  thus 
obtained  would  be  used  for  making  gruel  and 
bread.    A  meal  was  also  made  from  acorns. 

Grass    seeds  were    carefully  collected    by  the 


434  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

Apache  women.  The  seeds  would  be  cleaned  of 
hulls,  ground,  stored  in  pottery  jars  and  used  as 
meal.  Sometimes  the  unground  seed  would  be 
used  for  porridge. 

Perhaps  the  most  valuable  of  the  desert  growths, 
not  only  to  the  Indian,  but  in  later  days  to  the 
white  traveler  as  well,  was  the  bisnaga,  whose  in- 
terior is  a  mass  of  white  pulp,  full  of  moisture.  By 
cutting  off  the  top  of  the  plant  and  mashing  the 
pulp,  enough  watery  juices  may  be  obtained  to 
sustain  life. 

Both  Mexicans  and  Americans  cut  the  pulp  into 
cubes,  and  by  boiling  it  in  sugar  and  other  mate- 
rials make  a  delicious  sweetmeat  out  of  it.  An 
enterprising  Phoenix  confectioner  has  made  a  na- 
tional reputation  by  crystallizing  and  converting  it 
into  a  delicacy  de  luxe. 

The  Mojave  Indians,  after  scraping  out  the  in- 
terior of  the  bisnaga,  used  the  shell  for  a  cooking 
vessel.  They  would  fill  it  with  water  and  boil  a 
desert  rat  or  rabbit  therein  with  the  use  of  hot 
stones. 

Did  the  aborigines  in  Arizona  fare  well  gastro- 
nomically?  Except  in  times  of  war  we  may 
assume  with  reasonable  safety  that  the  thrifty  ones 
at  least  did.  Do  you  think  you  could  get  along  if 
invited  to  dine  with  a  cliff  dweller's  family,  in  Mon- 
tezuma's Castle,  for  instance,  and  sat  down  to 
something  like  this: 


ARIZONA  PLANT  LIFE  435 

Grass  seed  puree 

Quail  broiled  on  the  spit 

Roasted  Agave  ends 

Stewed  Antelope 

Beans  Squash 

Corn  cakes 

Dried  prickly  pears  Pine  nuts 

Naturally  it  is  not  to  be  expected  that  Mrs.  Cliff- 
dweller  arranged  her  menu  in  just  this  order,  but 
as  Mr.  Cliff  dweller  sat  squatting  before  his  pottery 
bowl  eating  elegantly  with  his  fingers,  assisted  by 
a  piece  of  corn  cake  for  a  scoop,  he  did  pretty  well; 
so  did  his  descendants,  the  Hopis,  before  the  white 
men  exterminated  the  deer  and  antelope;  so  did 
the  Indians  of  the  San  Pedro  valley  and  the  White 
Mountains.  Remember  how  they  fed  Fray  Marcos 
on  quail  and  other  delicacies. 

All  of  the  material  joys  of  living  are  not  with 
him  who  sells  soap  or  nails,  or  keeps  books  all  day 
and  goes  home  to  corn  beef  and  cabbage  and  to 
sleep,  not  under  the  starry  vault  of  heaven,  but  in 
a  stuffy  nine  by  ten  bedroom,  and  imagines,  there- 
fore, that  he  is  civilized. 


Chapter  XXVIII 
SOME  ARIZONA  BEASTS  AND  BIRDS 

UPON  first  view  the  wilds  of  Arizona  seem 
destitute  enough  of  animal  life.  However, 
if  one  motors  in  the  desert  countr^^  not  too 
far  from  water,  say  in  the  Gila  Valley,  or  along 
foothill  creeks  like  the  Tonto  or  East  Verde,  he 
will  not  go  far  without  seeing  a  cottontail  skurry 
across  the  road  ahead  of  him,  a  covey  of  quail  fly 
by  from  somewhere  near  at  hand,  or  a  long-legged 
jack  rabbit  start  up  from  behind  a  clump  of  sage- 
brush or  creosote  bush  and,  with  prodigious 
bounds,  disappear  into  the  distance. 

If  your  motor  trip  be  confined  to  the  desert,  and 
it  is  summer,  it  will  be  the  brownish  ground  squir- 
rel that  will  be  observed  the  oftenest.  He  is  a  spry 
little  chap,  about  the  size  of  a  chipmunk,  and 
always  seems  to  be  in  the  act  of  getting  back  to 
his  hole  as  fast  as  legs  can  carry  him. 

In  the  mountains  what  you  will  be  most  apt  to 
see  will  be  the  gray  squirrel  of  the  rocks,  the  chip- 
munk or,  on  an  upland  plain,  colonies  of  fat 
prairie  dogs. 

While  the  habitat  of  the  ground  squirrel  is  con- 
fined to  the  desert  and  the  prairie  dogs  to  the  high 
plateaus,  both  the  cottontail  and  the  jack  rabbit 
are  found  throughout  the  entire  state,  in  the  cool 

436 


SOME  ARIZONA  BEASTS  AND  BIRDS     437 

mountains  as  well  as  the  hot  valleys  of  the  south. 
The  one  part  these  rabbits  seem  to  play  in  nature's 
scheme  of  things  is  to  provide  fresh  meat  for  the 
carnivora  of  their  neighborhood. 

The  coj^ote  is  particularly  fond  of  rabbits,  and, 
though  he  seldom,  if  ever,  gets  a  jack  on  a  straight- 
away run,  he  will  often  pick  up  a  cottontail  as  it 
skurries  from  bush  to  bush.  El  Coyote  is  not  fini- 
cal about  his  meals.  When  he  can't  get  a  rabbit 
he  will  take  almost  anything  in  the  way  of  meat  he 
can  find,  savory  or  unsavory,  or,  if  nothing  better 
may  be  found  on  the  menu,  will  make  out  with  a 
piece  of  dried  prickly  pear  fruit.  John  Van  Dyke 
well  calls  him  the  hobo  of  the  desert,  for  from  his 
seedy,  moth-eaten  aspect,  as  well  as  from  his  im- 
pudent manners  and  vagrant  craftiness,  he  well 
deserves  the  name. 

His  yelp  is  distinctive  as  everything  else  con- 
cerning him.  If  3'ou  are  camping  out  on  the  desert 
or  foothill,  and  there  has  been  bacon  or  beef  for 
supper,  you  may  be  sure  El  Coyote  picked  up  the 
scent,  even  though  a  half  mile  away,  by  the  time 
you  had  your  frying  pan  fairly  over  the  fire,  and 
as  soon  as  it  is  dark  he,  with  perhaps  a  crony,  will 
slip  just  outside  the  zone  of  your  fire  light,  then 
suddenly  your  ears  will  be  smitten  with  a  yipping, 
eerie  howl — a  "Yip-yip-yip-e-ow-i-i-i  !  !  !"  which 
rises  to  a  shrill  falsetto  that  is  little  short  of  appal- 
ling the  first  time  one  hears  it.  Two  coyotes  can 
sound  like  a  score,  and,  oh,  the  nerve-racking  dole- 
fulness  of  their  yowling ! 

If  the  coyote  is  a  hobo,  his  rival  in  vagrancy,  the 


438  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

skunk,  is  a  bandit.  No  member  of  Villa's  gang 
ever  entered  a  town  on  a  looting  expedition  with 
more  impudent  assurance  than,  on  a  moonlight 
night,  a  skunk  will  swagger,  self-invited,  into  your 
camp.  He  pays  not  the  least  attention  to  you  as, 
awakening  from  your  slumbers,  you  rise  up  on 
your  cot  and  look  at  him. 

He  noses  around  your  bread-box  and  sack  of 
bacon  with  an  air  of  ownership  that  is  almost 
heart-breaking.  He  knows  you  are  afraid  to  shoot 
him,  and  you  can  say,  "Scat!"  till  you  are  black  in 
the  face;  he  only  wiggles  his  tail  in  awful  menace. 
Even  if,  upon  his  exit,  at  what  seems  a  safe  dis- 
tance from  the  camp,  you  succeed  in  shooting  him, 
he  still  gets  even  with  you. 

One  word  about  the  hydrophobia  skunk.  There 
is,  of  course,  no  special  variety  of  skunk  whose 
bite  would  convey  rabbles.  It  is  undoubtedly  true, 
though,  that  skunks  sometimes  contract  hydro- 
phobia, and  pass  it  on  to  humans  by  biting  them. 
It  is  also  true  that  owing  to  their  habits  of  prowl- 
ing about  camp  at  night,  a  sleeping  camper  would 
be  more  in  danger  from  a  bite  from  a  skunk  than 
from  any  other  animal,  but  it  is  easy  enough  to 
guard  against  this  danger  by  sleeping  on  a  cot  or 
in  a  wagon  or  car,  rather  than  to  make  one's  bed 
on  the  ground.  Also,  one  might  go  camping  in 
Arizona  for  a  year  and  never  see  a  skunk.  The 
danger  is  about  the  same  as  it  would  be  from  being 
struck  by  lightning  in  New  York  or  Chicago. 

The  fox,  like  both  the  coyote  and  the  badger,  is 
found  in  desert  and  mountain.    When  in  the  low- 


SOME  ARIZONA  BEASTS  AND  BIRDS     439 

lands,  at  least,  he  prefers  to  live  fairly  close  to  civ- 
ilization. The  increased  hazard  of  a  farmer  with 
a  shotgun,  plus  chicken,  he  prefers  to  a  hole  in  a 
more  isolated  section  with  a  diet  confined  to 
ground  squirrels  and  desert  rats. 

Before  the  white  man  came,  along  many  of  the 
Arizona  streams  were  to  be  found  not  only  rac- 
coons, but  beaver.  Now  'coons  are  scarce  and 
beaver  almost  never  seen.  A  pair  at  least  of  the 
latter  lived  for  a  while  near  the  Granite  Reef  dam 
of  Salt  River,  and  trees  showing  the  marks  of 
beavers'  teeth  are  common  along  the  Arizona 
canal.  Badgers  are  occasionally  found  both  in  the 
desert  and  in  the  foothills. 

The  wildcat  is  the  fiercest  hunter  of  all  of  the 
carnivora  of  the  state.  Wild  flesh  or  tame — he 
takes  them  both.  He  will  stalk  a  cottontail  or  a 
quail  with  even  greater  skill  than  his  domesticated 
cousin.  The  fattened  turkej^  raised  by  the  desert 
farmer  he  enjoys  quite  as  much  as  you  or  I,  and 
in  the  mountains,  lodgings  near  a  goat  or  sheep 
ranch  offer  possibilities  of  gastronomic  bliss  that 
even  the  dangers  of  the  herder's  gun  can  scarcely 
dim. 

The  largest  of  the  predator\'  animals  of  Arizona 
is  the  mountain  lion.  He  dwells  in  the  mountains, 
sleeping  in  some  sequestered  canj'on  or  hole  in  the 
rock  by  day  and  at  night  stalking  the  range  calf 
or  colt,  when  one  blow  of  his  strongly  muscled 
paw  will  bring  down  his  quarry.  The  lion  is  usu- 
ally hunted  with  the  aid  of  a  pack  of  hounds, 
which,  once  on  a  hot  trail,  have  little  trouble  in 


440  THE  STORY  OP  ARIZONA 

getting  him  up  a  tree.  Cowboys  occasionally  suc- 
ceed in  roping  him,  and  consider  him  a  good  deal 
of  a  coward,  but  no  one  can  deny  his  strength  or 
muscular  grace. 

There  are  still  a  few  bears  in  Arizona.  Those 
that  are  left  are  found  in  the  more  remote  high- 
lands; a  few  in  the  White  Mountains,  a  few  on  the 
Navajo  reservation;  in  the  Kaibab  National  Forest, 
north  of  the  Canyon,  and  occasionally  on  the  Mo- 
gollon  Mesa.  Most  of  them  are  black  or  brown, 
but  occasionally  even  a  silver-tip  is  seen. 

Up  to  1860  or  '70  antelopes  grazed  over  nearly 
all  of  the  country  now  known  as  Arizona,  and, 
though  preferring  the  grassy  uplands,  made  them- 
selves at  home  on  the  desert  as  well.  In  different 
places  on  the  northern  plateau,  bands  of  them  were 
seen  as  late  as  1885.  They  could  get  along  on  very 
little  water,  and  if  grass  ran  short,  made  out  on 
brush  and  the  tender  shoots  of  trees.  Mesquite 
beans  were  an  ideal  food  for  them.  In  a  land  of 
Indians  and  mountain  lions,  the  antelopes'  insur- 
ance against  early  mortality  lay  in  their  keenness 
of  scent  and  fleetness  of  foot,  but,  though  they 
could  cope  very  well  with  their  early  enemies, 
when  the  white  man  with  his  Winchester  rifle  ar- 
rived, he  all  but  exterminated  these  beautiful 
creatures. 

However,  in  sequestered  spots,  in  Yavapai,  Coco- 
nino and  Mojave  counties,  there  are  a  few  left 
which  are  carefully  guarded  by  the  game  wardens. 

There  also  remain  a  few  mountain  sheep,  which 
keep  to  the  drier  and  more  isolated    highlands. 


SOME  ARIZONA  BEASTS  AND  BIRDS     441 

Groups  as  large  as  fifteen  or  twenty  are  occa- 
sionally observed  in  the  mountains  of  Pinal  and 
Yuma  counties,  as  well  as  in  some  of  the  moun- 
tains of  the  northern  counties. 

The  mule  or  black-tailed  deer  has  survived  better 
than  the  antelope,  probably  for  the  reason  that  it 
is  more  natural  for  him  to  keep  to  cover.  He  loves 
the  solitude  of  the  mountain  canyon,  grown  thick 
with  chaparral,  where  a  traveler  might  pass 
within  a  hundred  yards  of  his  hiding  place  without 
suspecting  his  presence. 

White-tailed  deer  may  also  be  found  in  different 
parts  of  the  state. 

Arizona  now  has  wise,  protective  game  laws, 
under  which  elk,  mountain  sheep  and  antelope 
may  not  be  hunted  at  all,  and  deer  only  from  Oc- 
tober 1st  to  November  1st,  with  a  bag  limit  of  one 
deer  with  horns. 

In  1913,  under  the  direction  of  Dr.  W.  D.  Horni- 
day,  a  band  of  elk  was  brought  into  the  state  from 
Jackson's  Hole,  Wyoming.  They  are  now  ranging 
south  of  Winslow,  below  the  rim  along  Chevelon 
Creek,  where  there  is  plenty  of  food.  A  second 
shipment  was  brought  into  the  state  in  1918. 

BIRDS 

Ornithologists,  when  considering  the  birds  of 
Arizona,  divide  the  state  into  three  sections.  The 
Lower  Sonoran  zone  includes  the  lowlands  of  the 
south  and  west,  most  of  the  Little  Colorado  coun- 
try and  the  Painted  Desert.    The  Upper  Sonoran 


442  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

zone  takes  in  the  northeast  and  northwest  corners 
of  the  state,  as  well  as  the  foothills  in  the  central 
part.  The  transitional  zone  embraces  the  higher 
plateaus  and  mountains.  Each  of  these  districts 
has  its  own  distinctive  birds,  although  in  rare  cases 
the  same  bird,  like  the  phainopepla  and  the 
mourning  dove,  will  be  found  in  all  three  sections. 

Limited  space  will  permit  mention  of  only  the 
most  conspicuous  of  our  feathered  aviators.  Be- 
ginning with  the  king  of  them  all,  we  introduce 
the  splendid  golden  eagle,  a  much  more  noble  bird 
than  the  bald  eagle,  which  is  used  to  typify  the 
nation.  His  plumage  is  blackish  brown,  with  neck 
feathers  more  golden  and  a  tail  partially  mixed 
with  white.  They  are  found  in  the  mountain  re- 
gions in  the  north  and  eastern  parts  of  the  state, 
where  their  size,  strength  and  beauty  in  flight 
make  them  objects  of  the  greatest  admiration  to 
the  Indian,  who  endows  them  with  supernatural 
powers.  Both  the  Hopis  and  the  Navajos  rob  the 
nest  of  the  young,  keeping  them  in  captivity  to 
supply  feathers  for  personal  adornment  or  for 
ceremonials.  The  bald  eagle  is  also  occasionally 
seen  in  the  highlands  of  the  state. 

To  most  summer  visitors  in  Arizona  the  buzzard 
will  be  remembered  as  the  desert's  conspicuous 
bird.  At  close  range  he  is  repulsive  in  habit  and 
ungainly  in  movement,  but  once  on  the  wing,  he 
will  soar  hour  after  hour  against  the  pale  blue  sky, 
the  personification  of  grace.  A  lift  of  a  wing  and 
he  mounts  upward  till  he  becomes  but  a  dot  in  the 
sky;  a  swoop,  and  again  he  is  the  perfect  aero- 


SOME  ARIZONA  BEASTS  AND  BIRDS     443 

plane,  moving  without  waste  of  energy  or  awk- 
wardness of  movement — the  untiring  master  of 
his  art. 

Quite  a  different  bird  on  the  wing  is  the  hawk, 
though  he  flies  as  gracefully,  he  keeps  at  it  with 
less  persistence.  After  a  flight  of  a  half  hour  or  so 
there  is  apt  to  be  an  abrupt  drop  to  the  ground 
with  a  movement  much  quicker  than  the  buzzard's, 
and  when  he  rises,  there  will  be  a  mouse  or  other 
animal  or  bird  in  his  talons. 

Within  the  limits  of  the  state  are  to  be  found 
most  of  the  western  hawks,  and  while  some,  by 
reason  of  their  raids  on  chicken  yards,  are  a  pest 
to  the  farmer,  other  varieties  are  most  decidedly 
his  benefactors. 

The  Cooper  and  the  little  sharp-shinned  hawk 
are  the  worst  poultry  raiders,  while  the  Harris,  the 
zone-tailed,  and  the  Swainson  feed  almost  entirely 
upon  rodents.  George  Wharton  James  gives  a 
good  rule  for  the  hunter  to  follow  when  he  says: 
"No  hawk  should  be  shot  which  displays  red 
feathers  on  shoulder  or  tall." 

The  owl,  most  in  evidence  in  the  southern  coun- 
try, is  the  little  burrowing  owl,  that  takes  up  his 
dwelling  in  fox  or  badger  holes,  and  apparentlj^ 
has  no  objection  to  renting  out  a  portion  of  his 
quarters  to  a  gopher,  snake  or  even  a  rattler. 

A  still  smaller  owl  is  the  tiny  elf,  which  is  no 
bigger  than  a  finch,  who  builds  his  nest  in  de- 
serted woodpecker  holes  in  the  giant  cacti. 

In  marked  contrast  to  the  elf  is  the  great  western 
horned  owl,  who  is  both  fierce  and  destructive. 


444  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

and  is  strong  enough  to  kill  not  only  poultry,  but 
squirrels  and  skunks.  In  the  fall  of  the  year  the 
mournful  hoot  of  these  nocturnal  birds  may  be 
heard  in  many  a  mountain  canyon,  and  must  send 
shivers  down  the  spines  of  whatever  rabbits  there 
are  within  the  sound  of  their  fear-inspiring  tones. 

The  most  unique  bird  in  Arizona  is  the  chap- 
arral cock,  or  road  runner.  He  is  a  slim,  brownish 
bird,  who  never  flies  unless  pursued,  and  then  for 
only  a  few  rods  at  a  time,  or  when  he  uses  his 
wings  to  lengthen  a  jump  to  the  low  branches  of 
a  tree.  However,  after  one  has  seen  him  run, 
keeping  ahead  of  a  galloping  horse  with  greatest 
ease,  he  can  see  that  flying  would  be  a  rather  su- 
perfluous accomplishment.  Even  more  than  for 
his  running  the  chaparral  cock  is  noted  for  his 
fighting  qualities.  He  is  the  only  feathered  crea- 
ture known  who  has  the  nerve  to  attack  a  rattle- 
snake, and  he  will  kill  him,  too;  the  lightning-like 
thrusts  of  his  sharp  beak  being  even  quicker  than 
a  diamond-back's  strike.  Other  hors  d'oeuvre  on 
his  menu  include  lizards,  grasshoppers  and  mice. 

There  is  no  steadier  resident  of  this  part  of  the 
country  than  the  common  mourning  dove.  While 
he  is  seen  in  greater  numbers  during  the  summer 
months,  even  in  coldest  weather  there  are  a  good 
many  about,  and  in  the  early  morning  hours,  just 
before  sunrise,  he  swells  out  his  throat  with  the 
lament:  "Oh!  Cold!  Cold!  Cold!"  and  he  is  right 
about  it. 

The  Mexican  ground  dove  is  a  tiny  little  fellow, 
but  little  over  half  as  big  as  the  mourner,  and  is 


SOME  ARIZONA  BEASTS  AND  BIRDS     445 

friendly  enough  to  fly  down  in  your  door  yard  and 
join  the  chickens  in  their  morning  meal.  In  spite 
of  his  diminutive  appearance  he  is  not  in  the  least 
a  peace  dove.  In  the  spring  rival  tiny  cocks  will 
abuse  and  fight  each  other  in  a  way  that  for  a  dove 
is  nothing  less  than  scandalous. 

But  httle  larger  than  the  Mexican  is  the  Inca 
dove,  the  two  birds  so  resembling  each  other  that 
both  are  locally  called  Sonoran  doves. 

The  white  wing  is  a  real  pigeon.  He  loves  the 
hot  weather,  staying  in  Mexico  during  the  winter, 
and  when  his  distinctive  and  elaborate  call  is 
heard  in  the  valleys  of  the  Gila  and  the  Salt  it  is  a 
sign  that  the  summer  is  not  far  away.  He  rarely 
ventures  into  the  mountains. 

Arizona  boasts  of  three  distinct  varieties  of 
quail.  The  commonest  is  the  Gambel — a  crested, 
beautiful  bird,  marked  much  like  the  California 
valley  quail,  but  with  less  brown  or  buff  along  his 
sides.  The  Gambel  may  be  found  not  only  in  the 
desert  country,  where  in  such  districts  as  the  Salt 
and  Gila  River  valleys,  with  an  abundance  of  food, 
he  multiplies  prodigiously,  but  also  in  the  moun- 
tains. To  the  lover  of  birds  there  is  no  cheerier 
music  than  the  call  of  the  quail  mother  to  her 
young — their  gentle  conversational  notes  as  they 
busy  themselves  in  search  of  food,  or  the  warning 
note  of  the  cock  as  he  does  sentry  duty  on  the  limb 
of  a  convenient  tree. 

The  scaled  quail,  a  bluish-gray  colored  bird, 
with  a  small  tuft  of  whitish  feathers  on  the  top  of 
his  head,  is  rather  common  in  the  southeastern 


446  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

part  of  the  state.  The  Mearns  or  fool  quail  is 
so  called  from  his  too  confiding  disposition,  allow- 
ing himself  to  be  almost  stepped  on  before  tak- 
ing flight.  His  plumage  is  handsome  and  striking, 
but  the  markings  on  his  face  are  decidedly  clown- 
like. They  are  found,  among  other  places,  north  of 
the  Grand  Canyon. 

There  are  more  wild  turkeys  in  Arizona  now 
(1918)  than  there  have  been  for  years,  being  most 
plentiful  in  the  White  Mountains.  Game  wardens 
are  now  trapping  them  in  the  Apache  National 
Forest,  so  that  they  may  be  reintroduced  into  their 
old  haunts  in  the  mountains  in  the  southeastern 
part  of  the  state. 

Of  all  the  song  birds  of  the  Sonoran  zone,  to  the 
thrasher  easily  belongs  first  place.  If  there  is  a 
lovelier  song  in  all  the  world  that  comes  from 
feathered  throat  than  the  liquid,  golden  flood  of 
these  gray  Carusos  of  the  desert,  we  have  never 
heard  it.  The  lady  next  door  likens  its  music  to 
the  glittering  notes  of  a  master  violinist.  What- 
ever it  is,  it  is  love  music — a  "You-and-I-only-in- 
all-the-world"  enchantment,  that  brings  spring  to 
the  pulse  and  youth  and  love  to  the  heart. 

Do  not  think  that  in  thus  honoring  the  thrasher 
we  have  forgotten  the  mocker.  The  mocker  is  a 
bird  of  delight^  and  he  sings  from  a  throat  of  gold 
and  a  full  heart — but  oh !  his  fatal  versatility!  You 
listen  while  he  pours  forth  a  song  that  almost 
breaks  your  heart  for  beauty,  then  he  stops  and 
imitates  the  harsh  notes  of  the  cactus  wren,  or  the 
call  of  a  flycatcher. 


SOME  ARIZONA  BEASTS  AND  BIRDS     447 

If  Melba  would  pause  in  the  midst  of  her 
"Addio,"  from  Boheme,  and  trill  a  phrase  from 
"Turkey  in  the  Straw"  you  might  be  vastly  amused, 
but  you  could  never  take  her  seriously  again.  So 
with  the  mocker — he  is  frivolous. 

While  the  thrasher's  season  of  song  begins  in  the 
south,  in  the  last  of  February,  and  the  mocker  per- 
haps a  month  later,  we  love  the  lark  because  he  is 
the  first  real  singer  of  the  year.  You  can  hear  his 
cheery  notes  with  which  he  greets  the  sun  all  the 
late  winter  through. 

The  oriole  is  a  summer  bird  appearing  in  the  val- 
leys to  the  south  as  soon  as  the  ash  trees  are  fully 
in  leaf,  announcing  himself  with  a  little  bar  of 
music  full  of  quaint  beauty.  You  will  probably 
hear  his  song  weeks  before  you  see  him.  Later, 
however,  when  your  figs  and  apricots  are  ripe,  3'ou 
are  able  to  admire  his  dazzling  cloth  of  gold  with- 
out any  trouble  whatever.  But  unless  he  brings 
too  many  of  his  family  with  him  you  are  willing 
to  sacrifice  some  of  your  fruit  for  the  distinction 
of  his  elegant  company. 

An  exceptionally  companionable  bird  of  the 
Lower  Sonoran  zone  is  the  red-winged  black  bird. 
You  find  him  all  through  the  Salt  Biver  valley,  fre- 
quenting, especiall}^  alfalfa  fields  and  city  lawns, 
where  there  is  water  about.  During  the  winter 
they  congregate  in  great  flocks,  and,  like  most 
birds,  are  at  their  best  in  the  mating  time  in  the 
spring.  It  is  then  that  the  red  epaulets  on  the 
shoulders  of  the  male  are  the  brightest,  and  the 
sheen  of  his  black  coat  the  most  brilliant.    How  he 


448  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

does  preen  and  strut  before  his  lady,  and  his  call 
of  "Ok-ah-lee-ah!"  is  certainly  the  epitome  of 
good  spirits. 

The  yellow-headed  black  birds  make  even  a 
more  striking  appearance  than  the  red-wings. 
Their  usual  habitat  is  the  swamps  and  tules,  but 
occasionally  after  rains  they  are  seen  in  distant 
localities,  like  Tucson  and  Phoenix,  where  their 
discordant  notes  are  as  unmusical  as  their  plu- 
mage is  beautiful. 

Of  all  of  Arizona's  long  list  of  handsome  birds, 
including  the  pyrrhuloxia,  the  bunting  and  the 
tanager,  there  is  none  more  beautiful  than  the 
Arizona  cardinal.  Though  not  common  in  the  Salt 
River  valley  and  other  desert  portions  of  the 
Lower  Sonoran  zone,  he  may  be  often  seen  in  can- 
yons in  the  lower  foothills,  like  that  at  Castle  Hot 
Springs,  or  about  the  Roosevelt  Lake,  where  he  is 
the  admiration  of  all  beholders. 

When  we  reach  the  mountains  practically  all  of 
the  lowland  birds  have  disappeared.  Here  our 
choicest  song  birds  are  the  canyon  wrens,  whose 
rippling,  joyous  music,  as  they  rollick  down  the 
scale,  is  a  delight  to  the  heart.  They  are  fearless, 
friendly  birds.  A  pair  of  them  built  a  nest  on  a 
beam  in  our  study,  rearing  a  family  within  eight 
feet  of  our  clattering  typewriter. 

Another  favorite  mountain  bird  is  the  black- 
headed  grosbeak,  who  is  handsome  in  appearance 
and  has  a  song  both  sweet  and  clear. 

Humming  birds  are  found  all  through  the  moun- 
tains.    Indeed,  altogether  in  the  state,  there  are 


SOME  ARIZONA  BEASTS  AND  BIRDS      449 

fourteen  distinct  species,  and  only  eighteen  species 
in  all  the  United  States. 

The  hobo  of  bird  land  is  the  blue  jay.  In  Ari- 
zona he  lives  exclusively  in  the  mountains.  If  we 
are  camping,  the  Woodhouse  jay,  a  non-crested 
bird,  who  dresses  in  gray-blue,  will  nonchalantly 
drop  in  on  us  almost  before  the  provision  box  is 
opened. 

The  first  thing  he  says  is:  "I'll  stay  to  lunch  if 
you  don't  mind,"  and  in  his  anxiety  to  assure  you 
that  he  is  thoroughly  at  home,  he  will  take  the 
bacon  as  it  sizzles  in  the  frying  pan — if  you  give 
him  half  a  chance. 

The  dark  blue,  crested  jay  is  also  often  seen  in 
the  mountains.  He  is  a  handsomer  bird  than  the 
Woodhouse  and  with  better  manners. 

Among  the  few  birds  that  inhabit  both  the 
mountains  and  the  lowlands  is  the  western  robin, 
who,  if  the  season  is  rainy,  is  apt  to  winter  in  the 
warm  valleys  of  the  southern  part  of  the  state, 
going  into  the  mountains  for  the  summer. 

The  elegant  phainopepla,  with  his  gentlemanly 
suit  of  black  and  white  and  neat  helmet,  also  is  a 
mountain  summer  visitor,  who  spends  the  late 
winter  season  in  the  valleys. 

The  busiest  birds  in  the  mountains  are  the  wood- 
peckers, after  the  acorns  are  ripe.  They  first  bore 
holes  in  the  trunk  of  a  dead  pine  tree,  then  each 
gets  an  acorn  and  drives  it  into  his  hole — not>  as 
the  uninformed  might  suppose,  to  eat  the  acorn 
afterwards,  that  would  be  too  simple — later  a 
worm  comes  to  eat  the  acorn,  then  the  woodpecker 
returns  to  eat  the  worm. 

29 


450  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

POISONOUS  CREATURES 

When,  thirty  years  ago,  we  were  bouncing  on  a 
stage  coach  seat  en  route  for  Phoenix,  Arizona,  the 
tedium  of  the  trip  was  relieved  by  the  conversa- 
tion of  our  seat-mate. 

The  subject  under  discussion  was  the  various 
venomous  creatures  of  the  state. 

"Now  when  you  git  to  the  Lemon  House,"  said 
the  Arizonan,  "and  you  take  off  your  shoes  to  go 
to  bed  you  wanta  put  'em  tops  down.  If  you  don't, 
by  mornin'  they'll  be  half  full  of  them  centipedes. 
You  see,  they  crawl  in  after  dark  to  get  away  from 
the  night  air." 

He  bit  off  the  end  of  a  plug  of  Climax  and  con- 
tinued: "The  most  interestin'  sight,  though,  is  to 
see  one  of  them  'ere  fur-bearin'  tyrantulars  a-sittin' 
in  his  web  in  the  parlor  winder  a-catchin'  flying 
scorpions.  They  charm  'em  by  sort  of  whistling  at 
'em.  And  speaking  of  rattlesnakes!  Why,  kid, 
they  is  that  common  and  sizable  in  Arizony  that 
the  Injuns  cut  'em  up  in  four-foot  lengths  and  sell 
'em  for  cord  wood." 

The  silence  that  ensued  was  broken  by  a  timid- 
looking  lady  on  the  opposite  seat,  who  asked  the 
monologist  if  they  had  to  split  up  the  largest 
pieces  to  get  them  into  the  stove. 

At  the  outset,  let  us  assure  any  stranger  contem- 
plating a  visit  to  the  state  that  the  man  exagger- 
ated! There  are  rattlesnakes  in  Arizona — eleven 
varieties,  to  be  exact — ranging  all  the  way  from  the 
big  western    diamond-backs,  who  will,  if    thor- 


SOME  ARIZONA  BEASTS  AND  BIRDS     451 

oughly  nourished,  attain  a  length  of  seven  feet, 
down  to  the  horned  rattler,  about  a  third  of  his 
length.  This  particular  variety  is  locally  known 
as  a  "Side-winder"  on  account  of  a  peculiar  looping 
motion  it  takes  on,  which  moves  the  creature  in 
an  oblique  direction.  His  head  looks  not  unlike 
medieval  pictures  of  the  devil,  and  his  character 
rather  carries  out  the  verisimilitude. 

Still,  to  give  the  devil  his  due,  it  must  be  ad- 
mitted that  rattlesnakes  usually  are  busy  minding 
their  own  business,  which  does  not  include  hunt- 
ing down  humans;  and  all  of  them  are  verj^  apt 
to  rattle  before  they  strike,  which  should  speak 
largely  to  their  credit. 

Personally,  we  are  inclined  to  think  that  the 
rattlesnake  family  has  a  more  severe  indictment 
against  us  than  we  have  against  it.  Frequently, 
after  a  member  of  the  species  has  apprized  us  of 
his  presence  by  an  apologetic  rattle,  we  have  slain 
him  for  his  pains.  More  than  that,  we  once  did 
one  a  serious  injustice.  We  were  raising  young 
turkej'^s,  and  after  missing  one  or  two  we  found 
a  rattler  near  their  yard  with  a  bulge  in  his  mid- 
dle that  was  more  than  suspicious.  After  executing 
on  this  circumstantial  evidence,  a  post-mortem 
proved  the  bulge  to  be  a  gopher.  We  had  sacri- 
ficed a  friend ! 

The  only  man  we  ever  knew  who  was  killed  by 
a  rattlesnake  was  a  gentleman  who  claimed  to  be 
a  snake  charmer,  and  to  prove  it,  pulled  off  a 
comer  of  a  screen  over  a  box  of  diamond-backs  in 
Barnes  &  Benham's  old  curio  store,  at  Phoenix, 


452  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

and  attempted  to  stroke  one  on  the  head.  They 
buried  the  man  the  next  day. 

When  tramping  on  the  desert  or  in  the  moun- 
tains there  is  httle  danger  from  rattlesnakes  if  one 
minds  his  step,  and  when  chmbing  over  rocks  one 
never  puts  his  hand  in  a  place  he  can't  see.  Al- 
though there  are  few  more  venomous  creatures  in 
the  world  than  a  rattlesnake,  its  bite  is  not  neces- 
sarily fatal.  When  a  victim  is  struck,  a  ligature 
should  be  placed  above  the  wound  at  once.  If 
bitten  on  the  finger,  ligature  only  the  finger;  if  on 
the  hand  or  arm,  or  on  the  foot  or  shank,  place 
the  ligature  above  the  elbow  or  knee,  where  there 
is  but  one  bone  in  the  limb.  Do  not  leave  a  liga- 
ture in  place  for  more  than  twenty  minutes,  lest 
mortification  sets  in. 

As  quickly  as  possible  after  being  struck,  but 
only  after  applying  the  ligature,  cut  across  the 
fang-punctures  for  about  one  inch,  both  ways, 
deeper  than  the  fangs  penetrate.  If  bitten  on  the 
finger,  cut  to  the  bone  at  least  lengthways.  Bleed 
the  wound  thoroughly  and  rapidly.  After  good 
bleeding,  wash  the  wound  thoroughly  with  potas- 
sium permanganate,  in  enough  water  to  produce 
a  deep  wine  color.  This  chemical  destroys  all 
venom  with  which  it  comes  in  contact.  If  no  water 
is  at  hand,  use  it  dry  or  with  saliva.  Now  the  liga- 
ture may  be  removed,  and  if  fainting  spells  of  the 
victim  indicate  its  need,  a  hypodermic  dose  of 
strychnine  may  be  given.  Naturally,  if  a  physician 
can  be  obtained  he  should  be  sent  for  at  once. 

The  only  other  poisonous  snakes  in  Arizona  are 


SOME  ARIZONA  BEASTS  AND  BIRDS     453 

the  Sonoran  coral  snake  and  the  annulated  snake. 
The  coral  snake  is  slender,  seldom  above  two  feet 
in  length,  and  is  found  in  central  and  southern 
Arizona.  It  is  marked  with  black,  yellow  and  red 
bands  encircling  the  body,  the  black  always  bor- 
dered on  both  sides  by  yellow.  The  annulated 
snake,  though  rare,  has  been  seen  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  state.  It  is  rather  slender,  about  two 
and  a  half  feet  long,  with  poison  fangs  in  the  back 
of  the  mouth.  Bites  from  all  poisonous  snakes 
should  be  treated  as  prescribed  for  rattlers. 

There  is  a  popular  conception  outside  the  state 
that  the  Gila  monster  is  almost  as  dangerous  as  a 
rattlesnake.  This  is  pure  libel.  His  bite  is  dan- 
gerous, but  not  deadly,  the  poison  glands  being  in 
the  chin.  While  sluggish,  he  lias  been  known  to 
turn  and  snap  with  surprising  agility,  and  then  to 
hang  on  to  what  he  has  bitten  with  the  tenacity  of 
a  bull  dog.  It  is  when  the  jaws  are  thus  fastened 
that  the  poisonous  saliva  flows  from  the  swollen 
glands  of  the  chin  and  is  absorbed  into  the  wound. 
Charles  T.  Vorhies  of  the  University  of  Arizona, 
who  has  made  an  extensive  study  of  Arizona's 
poisonous  creatures,  reports  that  he  can  find  no 
authenticated  case  of  death  caused  by  the  Gila 
monster  bite  in  humans,  or  even  very  severe  in- 
jury. When  fully  grown,  the  Gila  monster  is  four- 
teen to  twenty  inches  long,  and  his  salmon-pink, 
beaded  skin  is  marked  with  what  a  fashion  paper 
might  call  a  tasteful  design  worked  out  in  black 
spots.  His  feet  look  uncannily  like  hands,  and  he 
has  an  unpleasant  habit  of  hissing  when  angered. 


454  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

In  captivity  his  sluggishness  seems  to  increase. 
His  favorite  food  is  eggs,  raw  or  boiled,  and  when 
fasting  he  is  said  to  live  off  of  his  fat  tail,  which 
grows  more  and  more  attenuated  until  he  takes 
up  eating  again.  The  females  lay  from  six  to  thir- 
teen eggs  in  July  and  August,  burying  them  from 
three  to  five  inches  in  the  sand.  In  the  winter  the 
monster  iiibernates,  burying  itself.  Aside  from  the 
Gila  monster  and  a  closely  related  species  found 
in  Mexico,  absolutely  no  other  lizards  are  poi- 
sonous. 

Next  to  the  Gila  monster  the  largest  lizard  to  be 
found  in  Arizona  is  the  Chuckawala,  which  is 
about  twelve  inches  long,  brownish  in  color,  with 
a  big,  broad  head.  When  young  he  is  olive  col- 
ored, spotted  with  black  on  his  back.  He  is  seen 
most  often  in  rocky  foothill  country. 

The  most  beautiful  lizard  in  the  state  is  the 
Collar  lizard,  beautifully  mottled  in  green,  with  a 
collar  of  black,  with  occasional  markings  of  red. 
Including  his  long,  slim  tail,  he  will  often  attain  a 
length  of  about  a  foot.  Like  the  Chuckawala,  he 
is  usually  found  in  the  foothills. 

In  spite  of  our  companion  of  the  stage  coach,  of 
course  scorpions  do  not  fly,  but  they  can  scuttle 
along  a  wall  at  a  gait  that  makes  flying  almost  a 
superfluous  accomplishment,  also  they  are  not  apt 
to  be  found  in  hotel  parlors — a  deserted  miner's 
cabin  in  the  foothills  would  be  a  more  likely  place. 
The  scorpion  carries  a  lance  at  the  end  of  its  ab- 
domen, and  throws  it  up  and  forward  over  the 
back,  striking  with  stinging  force.     Though  it  is 


SOME  AEIZONA  BEASTS  AND  BIRDS      455 

always  ready  for  business,  it  does  but  little  more 
damage  than  the  similar  weapon  of  the  yellow 
jacket.  The  whip  scorpion,  when  disturbed,  gives 
off  an  odor  resembling  that  of  vinegar,  and  in 
Texas  is  called  the  Vinegarone.  It  is  entirely 
harmless.  In  Arizona  the  name  is  sometimes  ap- 
plied to  a  spider-like  looking  creature,  which  the 
Mexicans  call  the  Mata  Venado  (kill  deer).  The 
Mata  Venado  has  an  abdomen  about  seven-eighths 
of  an  inch  long,  shaped  something  like  a  cater- 
pillar, with  a  head  the  shape  of  a  big  apple  seed. 
Its  spider-like  legs  and  body  are  somewhat  hairy 
and  cream  colored.  This  nocturnal  animal  is 
greatly  feared  by  the  Mexican  labor  population, 
but  observers  have  allowed  themselves  to  be  bitten 
without  sujffering  anything  worse  than  a  passing 
pain  from  the  wound. 

Centipedes,  like  other  Arizona  venomous  crea- 
tures, do  not  make  a  practice  of  tracking  down 
humans.  If  you  want  to  see  one,  j^ou  must  look 
him  up.  Under  a  board  that  has  lain  long  in  a 
damp  place  would  be  a  likely  place  to  find  one; 
or,  if  you  are  in  the  mountains,  under  a  bowlder. 
The  mountain  variety  is  larger  than  those  found 
in  the  valleys,  attaining  a  length  from  seven  to  ten 
inches,  and  with  their  greenish  scales  and  many 
wriggling  legs,  they  are  not  pleasant  objects.  The 
poison  glands  in  a  centipede  are  within  the  bases 
of  the  front  pair  of  legs.  Vorhies  reports  two  cases 
of  centipede  bite;  both  were  painful;  one  was  de- 
scribed as  feeling  like  a  hot  needle  at  the  instant 
of  infliction.  Neither  case  was  more  severe  than 
the  pain  following  a  honey  bee's  sting. 


456  THE  STORY  OF  ARIZONA 

The  tarantula,  hairy,  brownish-black  in  color, 
like  all  spiders,  is  to  some  extent  poisonous,  and, 
though  his  reputation  is  worse  than  his  bite,  it  is 
no  better  than  his  looks.  In  full  grown  ugliness, 
including  his  legs,  he  is  about  the  size  of  a  ten- 
year-old  child's  hand,  and  always  looks  as  though 
he  needed  a  shave.  Though  his  appearance  would 
condemn  him  in  any  court,  like  the  centipede,  he 
seems  quite  as  anxious  to  get  away  from  you  as 
you  are  to  avoid  him.  From  Dr.  Vorhies'  investi- 
gations it  would  seem  that  while  the  tarantula's 
bite  was  more  severe  than  the  sting  of  a  scorpion, 
it  by  no  means  need  inspire  terror.  In  the  most 
serious  cases  on  record  the  local  pain  lasted  but 
a  few  days,  though  complete  recovery  took  some 
little  while  longer. 

No  account  of  Arizona's  curious  creatures  which 
omitted  the  Agassiz's  land  tortoise  would  be  com- 
plete. In  size  his  short,  broad  shell  is  about  nine 
by  seven  inches.  In  spite  of  aquatic  traditions,  he 
can't  abide  dampness,  and  if  in  captivity  his  dwell- 
ing place  is  not  warm  and  dry,  he  will  soon  die. 
When  found  wandering  over  the  desert  mountains 
he  looks  about  as  suited  to  his  environment  as  an 
oyster  would  in  the  same  locality. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 

Armstrong  and  Thornber,    Western  Wild  Flowers. 

Bancroit^  Hubert  Howe.    Arizona  and  New  Mexico. 

Barrett,  S.  M.  (Editor).    Geronimo's  Story  of  His  Life. 
Berard,  Father.     Ethnologic  Dictionary  of  Navajos. 
Navajo  Dictionary. 

Bolton,,  Herbert.     Spanish  Explorations  of  the  Southwest. 

BouRKE,  John  G.     On  the  Border  with  Crook. 

An  Apache  Campaign. 

Brown,  James  Cabell.    Calabasas. 

Bureau  of  Ethnology  Eeports.  See  Monographs  by  Powell, 
Stevenson,  Mindeleff,  Fewkes,  Gushing,  etc. 

Casteneda^s  Narrative  of  the  Coronado  Expedition. 
(Translated  by  Parker  Winship.)  In  Bureau  of  Ethnol- 
ogy Reports. 

Cremont,  John  C.    Life  Among  the  Apaches. 

CouES,  Elliott  (Editor  and  Translator).  On  the  Trail  of  a 
Spanish  Pioneer.     (The  Diary  of  Padre  Garces.) 

Dellenbaugh,  F.  S.    The  Romance  of  the  Colorado  River. 

Dutton,  Clarence  E.  Tertiary  Histoiy  of  the  Grand  Canyon 
District. 

Eldridge,  Zoeth  Skinner.    Beginnings  of  San  Francisco. 

Farish,  Thomas  Edwin.    History  of  Arizona. 

Fev^tkes,  Jesse  Walter.  Various  Monographs  in  Bureau  of 
Ethnology  Reports. 

Forbes,  Robert  H.  Bulletins  of  Arizona  Agricultural  Experi- 
ment Stations. 

Grey,  Zaito.    The  Last  of  the  Great  Plainsmen. 

The  Rainbow  Trail. 

Hall,  Sharlot  M.     Cactus  and  Pine. 

HiNTON,  R.  J.     Handbook  to  Arizona. 

Hough,  Walter.  Prehistoric  Ruins  of  the  Gila  and  Salt 
Rivers.     (Li  Report  of  Smithsonian  Institution.) 

457 


458  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

HowABD,  Gen.  0.  0.    My  Life  and  Experiences  Among  Ou^ 

Hostile  Indians. 
Ives,  Lieut.  J.  C.     Explorations  of  the  Colorado  River  of 

the  West. 
James,  George  Wharton.     Indians  of  the  Painted  Desert 

Eegion. 

Arizona,  the  Wonderland. 

House  Blessing  Ceremony. 

Indian  Basketry. 

Indian  Blankets  and  Their  Makers. 

In  and  Around  the  Grand  Canyon. 

Reclaiming  the  Arid  West. 

The  Grand  Canyon  of  Arizona. 

Our  American  Wonderlands. 

The  Indians'  Secrets  of  Health. 

King,  Gen.  Charles.    Campaigning  with  Crook. 

Sunset  Crossing. 

Lewis,  Alfred  Henry.    Wolfville  Stories. 

LuMMis,  Charles  Fletcher.    The  Land  of  Poco  Tiempo. 

Strange  Comers  of  Our  Country. 

Volumes  of  Land  of  Sunshine  and  Out  West. 

Matthews,  Washington.     The  Night  Chant. 

Navajo  Lepends, 

McClintock,  James  H.    Arizona  the  Youngest  State. 

MowRY,  Sylvester.     Arizona  and  Sonora. 

MuiR,  John.     Our  National  Parks. 

Noble,  F.  L.    Shinumo  Quadrangle,  Grand  Canyon. 

Pattte,  James  0.    Personal  Narrative. 

Pov5t;ll,  John  Wesley.    Canyons  of  the  Colorado. 

Explorations  of  the  Canyons  of  the  Colorado  River. 

Prudden,  T.  Mitchell.     On  the  Plateaus  of  the  Southwest. 
Pumpelly,  Ralph.    Across  America  and  Asia. 
Robinson,  Will  H.    The  Man  from  Yesterday. 
Ryan,  Marah  Ellis.    Love  Letters  of  an  Indian. 
Simpson,  Lieut.  J.  H.    Expedition  Against  the  Navajos. 
White  Stewart  Edward.    Arizona  Nights'  Entertainment. 
Wright,  Harold  Bell.    When  a  Man's  a  Man. 


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